# HG changeset patch # User Steve Losh # Date 1471404554 0 # Node ID 2cb0208c1744cb7ddf9cffaed235ee8f26a3bab0 # Parent 0e1d7a2087ccd553fb3a1b1d2b53aece33c08971 Markov by Tungsten Light diff -r 0e1d7a2087cc -r 2cb0208c1744 .hgignore --- a/.hgignore Wed Aug 17 01:52:14 2016 +0000 +++ b/.hgignore Wed Aug 17 03:29:14 2016 +0000 @@ -1,2 +1,1 @@ scratch.lisp -data diff -r 0e1d7a2087cc -r 2cb0208c1744 data/lightships-and-lighthouses.txt --- /dev/null Thu Jan 01 00:00:00 1970 +0000 +++ b/data/lightships-and-lighthouses.txt Wed Aug 17 03:29:14 2016 +0000 @@ -0,0 +1,13401 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Lightships and Lighthouses, by Frederick A. Talbot + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Lightships and Lighthouses + +Author: Frederick A. Talbot + +Release Date: August 16, 2016 [EBook #52817] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIGHTSHIPS AND LIGHTHOUSES *** + + + + +Produced by deaurider, Charlie Howard, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +LIGHTSHIPS AND LIGHTHOUSES + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Siemens Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +THE 43,000,000 CANDLE-POWER BEAMS THROWN FROM THE HELIGOLAND LIGHTHOUSE. + +Being projected from a height of 272 feet above the sea, the beacon has +a range of 23 miles, and on a clear night the rays are seen from Büsun, +35 miles away. + + _Frontispiece._ +] + + + + + CONQUESTS OF SCIENCE + + + LIGHTSHIPS AND + LIGHTHOUSES + + BY + FREDERICK A. TALBOT + + AUTHOR OF + “MOVING PICTURES,” “RAILWAY CONQUEST OF THE WORLD,” “THE STEAMSHIP + CONQUEST OF THE WORLD,” ETC. + + _ILLUSTRATED_ + + PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY + LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN + 1913 + + + + +_Printed in England._ + + + + +PREFACE + + +Romances innumerable have been woven around the flaming guardians of +the coast, but it is doubtful whether any purely imaginative work is +so fascinating and absorbing as the plain unvarnished narrative of how +some famous lightship or lighthouse has been brought into existence. +And the story of construction is equalled in every way by that relating +to the operation and maintenance of the light, against all odds, for +the guidance of those who have business upon the ocean. + +This volume is not a history of lightships and lighthouses; neither +is it a technical treatise. Rather my object has been to relate how +the difficulties, peculiar and prodigious, have been overcome by the +builders in their efforts to mark some terrible danger-spots, both on +the mainland and isolated sea-rocks. + +While the lines of the lightship and lighthouse are familiar to all, +popular knowledge concerning the internal apparatus of the building or +ship is somewhat hazy. Therefore I have explained, with technicalities +simplified as much as possible, the equipment of the tower and vessel, +and the methods whereby both visual and audible warnings are given. The +very latest developments in this field of engineering and science are +incorporated, so as to render the subject as comprehensive as possible +within the limits of a single volume. + +In the compilation of this book I have received the heartiest +assistance from those who are prominently associated with the work of +providing adequate aids to navigation, and am particularly indebted +to the engineers to the Commissioners of Northern Lights, Messrs. +D. and C. Stevenson; Lieutenant-Colonel William P. Anderson, the +Engineer-in-Chief to the Lighthouse Department of the Canadian +Government; the various officials of the Lighthouse Board of the +United States of America; the Engineer-in-Chief to the French Service +des Phares; the lighthouse authorities of New South Wales and New +Zealand; Mr. Gustaf Dalén and his assistants; Messrs. Chance Brothers +and Company, Limited, of Birmingham; Messrs. Edmondsons, Limited, of +Dublin; Samuel Strain, Esq., the Director of the Lighthouse Literature +Mission, Belfast; the _Scientific American_, and the _Syren and +Shipping_, etc. + + FREDERICK A. TALBOT. + + _June, 1913._ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. THE ORIGIN OF THE LIGHTHOUSE 1 + + II. BUILDING A LIGHTHOUSE 11 + + III. THE LIGHT AND ILLUMINANTS 28 + + IV. FOG-SIGNALS 57 + + V. THE EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE 72 + + VI. SOME FAMOUS LIGHTS OF ENGLAND 81 + + VII. THE BELL ROCK AND SKERRYVORE LIGHTS 96 + + VIII. THE LONELY LIGHTS OF SCOTLAND 108 + + IX. THE FASTNET, THE OUTPOST OF EUROPE 121 + + X. LIGHTHOUSES BUILT ON SAND 132 + + XI. SOME LIGHT PATROLS OF THE FRENCH COAST 148 + + XII. THE GUARDIAN LIGHTS OF CANADA’S COAST 161 + + XIII. THE MINOT’S LEDGE LIGHT 176 + + XIV. THE TILLAMOOK ROCK LIGHT-STATION 183 + + XV. THE COAST LIGHTS OF THE UNITED STATES 196 + + XVI. THE LAMP-POSTS OF THE GREAT LAKES OF NORTH AMERICA 208 + + XVII. THE MOST POWERFUL ELECTRIC LIGHTHOUSES OF THE WORLD 218 + + XVIII. SOME LIGHTHOUSES IN AUSTRALIAN WATERS 229 + + XIX. THE SIGNPOSTS OF THE SANDBANKS 240 + + XX. A FLAMING SENTINEL OF THE MALACCA STRAITS 257 + + XXI. UNATTENDED LIGHTHOUSES 267 + + XXII. FLOATING LIGHTHOUSES 284 + + XXIII. THE LIGHT-KEEPER AND HIS LIFE 301 + + INDEX 318 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + FACING PAGE + + The 43,000,000 Candle-Power Beams thrown from the Heligoland + Lighthouse _Frontispiece_ + + How the Beachy Head Lighthouse was built 6 + + Workmen returning by the Aerial Cableway to the Top of Beachy + Head 7 + + The Sanganeb Reef Lighthouse in the Red Sea 14 + + The Alcatraz Lighthouse under Construction 15 + + The Alcatraz Lighthouse completed 15 + + The Thimble Shoals Light 22 + + Setting the Last Stone of the Beachy Head Lighthouse 23 + + The Hyperradial Apparatus for the Manora Point Light, Karachi, + India 48 + + First Order Triple Flashing Light of 920 Millimetres Focal + Distance for Chilang Lighthouse, China 49 + + Looking up the Lantern of the Needles Lighthouse 52 + + Fixed Apparatus of the Fourth Order for Sarawak 53 + + A Modern Lighthouse Siren Plant 58 + + The Sirens of the Lizard 59 + + The Acetylene Fog-Gun 64 + + The Rattray Head Lighthouse 65 + + Sule Skerry Light 65 + + The Eddystone, the Most Famous Lighthouse of England 76 + + A Thrilling Experience 77 + + The “Bishop,” the Western Outpost of England 82 + + The Wolf Rock Lighthouse 83 + + The Longships Light 88 + + The Godrevy Light, Scilly Islands 89 + + The Chicken Rock Lighthouse, off the Isle of Man 92 + + How the Skerryvore is built 93 + + The Skerryvore, Scotland’s Most Famous Lighthouse 102 + + Barra Head Lighthouse, Scotland 103 + + The Homes of the Keepers of the Skerryvore and Dhu-Heartach + Lights 103 + + The Dhu-Heartach Lighthouse 110 + + The North Unst, Britain’s most Northerly Lighthouse 111 + + The North Unst Light 116 + + Landing Water at the North Unst 116 + + The Flannen Islands Light-Station 117 + + Building the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse 122 + + Building the Fastnet Tower 123 + + Erecting the Fastnet Lantern 123 + + The Fastnet, the Outpost of Europe 128 + + The Lantern of the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse 129 + + The Rothersand Lighthouse 136 + + The Fourteen-Foot Bank Lighthouse, built on Sand 137 + + The Heaux de Bréhat Light 150 + + Fitting the Lantern of La Jument Light 151 + + Preparing the Foundations of the Jument Tower 154 + + The Jument Light recently erected off Ushant 155 + + The Cape Race Lighthouse, Newfoundland 162 + + Cann Island Lighthouse, on the East Coast of Newfoundland 163 + + The Light at the Southern End of Belle Ile 166 + + The North Belle Ile Lighthouse 167 + + A Magnificent Canadian Light on the Pacific Coast 168 + + The West End Guardian of Sable Island 168 + + St. Esprit Island Light, Nova Scotia 169 + + The Gull Island Light, Newfoundland 169 + + The Batiscan Front Range Lighthouse, River St. Lawrence 170 + + Isle St. Thérèse Upper Range Back Lighthouse, River St. Lawrence 170 + + Upper Traverse Lighthouse in the River St. Lawrence 171 + + An “Ice Shove” upon the Back Range Light in Lake St. Peter 171 + + The Minot’s Ledge Light 178 + + Tender landing Building Material upon the Tillamook Rock 179 + + The Tillamook Rock Light-Station from the South 186 + + The Conquest of the Tillamook 187 + + The Terrible Tillamook Rock 187 + + Famous United States Lighthouses of Two Centuries 192 + + The Race Rock Light 193 + + The Carquinez Strait Light 198 + + A Church as a Lighthouse 199 + + The Bonita Point Lighthouse off the Californian Coast 202 + + Point Pinos Light-Station, California 203 + + The Farallon Rock and Light 204 + + The Farallon Lighthouse off San Francisco 204 + + The Punta Gorda Light-Station, California 205 + + A Lighthouse on the Great Lakes in the Grip of Winter 210 + + Building the Barre à Boulard Light in the River St. Lawrence 211 + + Colchester Reef Lighthouse, Lake Erie 214 + + The Latest Development in Lighthouse Engineering 215 + + The Electric Searchlights of the Heligoland Lighthouse 222 + + The Heligoland Lighthouse 223 + + Green Cape Lighthouse, New South Wales 232 + + The Sentinel of Sugar Loaf Point, New South Wales 232 + + “Bungaree Norah” Station, New South Wales 232 + + The Cape Byron Lighthouse, New South Wales 233 + + The Macquarie Lighthouse, South Head of Sydney Harbour 233 + + Painting the Troubridge Lighthouse, South Australia 234 + + Green Point Lighthouse, Natal 235 + + The Pacific Outpost of the United States of America 235 + + The _Seven Stones_ Lightship 242 + + The _San Francisco_ Lightship 243 + + The _Norderney_ Lightship 250 + + The _Fire Island_ Lightship, the Atlantic Outpost of the United + States 251 + + Completing the One-Fathom Bank Lighthouse in the Malacca + Straits 262 + + The One-Fathom Bank Lighthouse, Malacca Straits, in Course of + Erection 263 + + The Platte Fougère Lighthouse under Construction 268 + + The Platte Fougère Lighthouse 269 + + Setting the Compressed-Air Reservoir at Fort Doyle 270 + + The Fort Doyle Siren 271 + + An Unattended Beacon Light placed upon a Wild Part of the + Scottish Coast 272 + + The Gasfeten Light: a Lonely Beacon in Swedish Waters 273 + + The Dalén “Sun-Valve,” the Most Wonderful Invention of + Modern Lighthouse Engineering 274 + + The Gas Accumulators Employed with the Dalén Automatic System 275 + + The Lagerholmen Lighthouse 278 + + An Unattended Beacon Light in the Straits of Magellan 279 + + An Automatic Lightboat 279 + + The Wigham Thirty-One Day Unattended Petroleum Light 280 + + Willson Automatic Gas and Whistling Light off Egg Island, Nova + Scotia 281 + + The “Outer Automatic” Combined Gas and Whistling Light, + Halifax, Nova Scotia 281 + + The _Svinbādan_ Unattended Lightship in Swedish Waters 292 + + The _Kalkgrundet_, Sweden’s Latest Automatic Lightship 293 + + The Lantern used in the Wigham Automatic Petroleum Beacon 298 + + The “6-Bar” Floating Wigham Light in Portsmouth Harbour 299 + + The Pumps whereby the Oil is lifted from the Lowest Floor to + the Lantern Room 306 + + Combined Kitchen and Living-Room in the Lighthouse 307 + + Keeper cleaning the Lamp after it has cooled down 312 + + A Lighthouse Bedroom 313 + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE ORIGIN OF THE LIGHTHOUSE + + +The mariner, in pursuit of his daily business, is exposed to dangers +innumerable. In mid-ocean, for the most part, he need not fear them +particularly, because he has plenty of sea-room in which to navigate +his ship, and in case of thick fog he can ease up until this dreaded +enemy lifts or disperses. But in crowded coastal waters his position +is often precarious, for he may be menaced by lurking shoals or hidden +reefs, which betray little or no indication of their whereabouts, and +which may be crossed with apparent safety. If the ship blunders on in +ignorance, it is brought up with a thud as it buries its nose in the +sucking sand, or gives a mighty shiver as it scrapes over the rocky +teeth, perhaps to be clasped as in a vice, or to be battered and broken +so fearfully that, when at last it tears itself free and slips off into +deep water, it can only founder immediately. Here, if fog blots out the +scene, the ship is in danger of being lured to certain destruction by +currents and other natural forces, since the captain is condemned to a +helplessness as complete as of a blind man in a busy street. + +It is not surprising, then, that the captain, as he approaches or +wanders along a tortuous shoreline, scans the waters eagerly for a +glimpse of the guardian monitor, which, as he knows from his reckonings +and chart, should come within sight to guide him on his way. The +danger-signal may be one of many kinds--a misty, star-like glimmer +thrown from a buoy dancing on the waves, the radiant orb from a +lightship bobbing up and down and swinging rhythmically to and fro, a +fixed flare-light, or dazzling, spoke-like rays revolving across the +sky. If sight be impossible owing to fog, he must depend upon his ear +for the measured tolling of a bell, the shriek of a whistle, the deep +blare of a siren, or the sharp report of an explosive. When he has +picked up one or other of these warnings, he feels more at ease, and +proceeds upon his way, eyes and ears keenly strained for warning of the +next danger ahead. + +The lighthouse is the greatest blessing that has been bestowed upon +navigation. It renders advance through the waters at night as safe +and as simple as in the brilliancy of the midday sun. But for these +beacons the safe movement of ships at night or during fog along the +crowded steamship highways which surround the serrated shores of the +five continents would be impossible. It is only natural, therefore, +that the various nations of the world should strenuously endeavour to +light their coasts so adequately that the ship may proceed at night as +safely and as comfortably as a man may walk down an illuminated city +thoroughfare. + +Whence came the idea of lighting the coastline with flaring beacons? It +is impossible to say. They have been handed down to modern civilization +through the mists of time. The first authentic lighthouse was Sigeum, +on the Hellespont, which undoubtedly antedates the famous Pharos of +Alexandria. The latter was a massive square tower, 400 feet high, and +was known as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It was built about +331 B.C. The warning light was emitted from a huge wood fire, which +was kept burning at the summit continuously during the night; the +illumination is stated to have been visible for a distance of forty +miles, but modern knowledge disputes this range. The precise design +of this wonderful tower is unknown, but it must have been a huge +structure, inasmuch as it is computed to have cost the equivalent in +modern money of over £200,000, or $1,000,000. + +For sixteen hundred years it guided the navigators among the waters +from which it reared its smoking crest, and then it disappeared. +How, no one knows, although it is surmised that it was razed by an +earthquake; but, although it was swept from sight, its memory has been +preserved, and the French, Italian, and Spanish nations use its name in +connection with the lighthouse, which in France is called _phare_; in +the other two countries mentioned, _faro_. + +The Romans in their conquest of Gaul and Britain brought the lighthouse +with them, and several remains of their efforts in this direction are +to be found in England, notably the pharos at Dover. + +In all probability, however, the lighthouse in its most primitive form +is at least as old as the earliest books of the Bible. Undoubtedly it +sprang from the practice of guiding the incoming boatman to his home +by means of a blazing bonfire set up in a conspicuous position near +by. Such a guide is a perfectly obvious device, which even to-day is +practised by certain savage tribes. + +When the Phœnicians traded in tin with the ancient Britons of Cornwall, +their boats continually traversed the rough waters washing the western +coasts of Spain, where, for the safer passage of their sailors, +doubtless, they erected beacons upon prominent headlands. The oldest +lighthouse in the world to-day, which in some quarters is held to be +of Phœnician origin, is that at Corunna, a few miles north of Cape +Finisterre. Other authorities maintain that it was built during the +reign of the Roman Emperor Trajan. In 1634 it was reconstructed, and is +still in existence. + +At the mouth of the Gironde is another highly interesting link with +past efforts and triumphs in lighthouse engineering. The Gironde +River empties itself into the Bay of Biscay through a wide estuary, +in the centre of which is a bunch of rocks offering a terrible menace +to vessels. This situation achieved an unenviable reputation in the +days when ships first ventured out to sea. Being exposed to the broad +Atlantic, it receives the full force of the gales which rage in the +Bay of Biscay, and which make of the Gironde River estuary a fearful +trap. The trading town of Bordeaux suffered severely from the ill fame +attached to the mouth of the waterway upon which it was dependent, +for both the sea and the roads exacted a heavy toll among the ships +which traded with the famous wine capital of Gascony. How many fine +vessels struck the rocks of Cordouan and went to pieces within sight +of land, history does not record, but the casualties became so numerous +that at last the firms trading with Bordeaux refused to venture into +the Gironde unless a light were placed on the reef to guide their +captains. Alarmed at the prospect of losing their remunerative traffic, +the citizens of Bordeaux built a tower upon the deadly reef, with a +beacon which they kept stoked with wood, four men being reserved for +its service. In return the authorities exacted a tax from each vessel +arriving and leaving the port, in order to defray the expense thus +incurred. Probably from this action originated the custom of lighthouse +dues. + +This bonfire served its purposes until the Black Prince brought Gascony +under his power. He demolished the primitive beacon, and erected in its +place another tower, 40 feet high, on which the _chauffer_ was placed, +a hermit being entrusted with the maintenance of the light at night. +Near the lighthouse--if such it can be called--a chapel was built, +around which a few fishermen erected their dwellings. When the hermit +died, no one offered to take his place. The beacon went untended, the +fishermen departed, and the reef once more was allowed to claim its +victims from shipping venturing into the estuary. + +In 1584 an eminent French architect, Louis de Foix, secured the +requisite concession to build a new structure. He evolved the fantastic +idea of a single building which should comprise a beacon, a church and +a royal residence in one. For nearly twenty-seven years he laboured +upon the rock, exposed to the elements, before he (or rather his +successor) was able to throw the welcome warning rays from the summit +of his creation. This was certainly the most remarkable lighthouse +that has ever been set up. It was richly decorated and artistically +embellished, and the tower was in reality a series of galleries rising +tier upon tier. At the base was a circular stone platform, 134 feet in +diameter, flanked by an elegant parapet surrounding the light-keepers’ +abode. This lower structure was intended to form a kind of breakwater +which should protect the main building from the force of the waves. +On the first floor was a magnificent entrance hall, leading to the +King’s apartment, a _salon_ finely decorated with pillars and mural +sculptures. Above was a beautiful chapel with a lofty roof supported by +carved Corinthian columns. Finally came the beacon, which at that date +was about 100 feet above the sea-level. + +Access to the successive floors was provided by a beautiful spiral +staircase, the newels of which were flanked by busts of the two +French Kings, Henry III. and Henry IV., and of the designer de Foix. +The architect died not long before his work was completed, but the +directions he left behind him were so explicit that no difficulty was +experienced in consummating his ideas, and the Tour de Cordouan shed +its beneficial light for the first time over the waters of the Bay of +Biscay in 1611. So strongly was the building founded that it has defied +the attacks of Nature to this day, although it did not escape those of +the vandals of the French Revolution, who penetrated the tower, where +the busts of the two Henrys at once excited their passion. The symbols +of monarchy were promptly hurled to the floor, and other damage was +inflicted. When order was restored, the busts were replaced, and all +the carvings which had suffered mutilation from mob law were restored. +At the same time, in accordance with the spirit of progress, the tower +was modified to bring it into line with modern lighting principles; +it was extended to a height of 197 feet, and was crowned with an +up-to-date light, visible twenty-seven miles out to sea. For more than +three centuries it has fulfilled its designed purpose, and still ranks +as the most magnificent lighthouse that ever has been built. Its cost +is not recorded, but it must necessarily have been enormous. + +In Great Britain the seafarer’s warning light followed the lines of +those in vogue upon the older part of the Continent, consisting chiefly +of wood and coal fires mounted on conspicuous lofty points around the +coast. These braziers were maintained both by public and by private +enterprise. Patents were granted to certain individuals for the upkeep +of beacons in England and Scotland, and from time to time the holders +of these rights came into conflict with the public authority which was +created subsequently for the maintenance of various aids to navigation +around the coasts. In England these monopolies were not extinguished +until 1836, when the Brethren of Trinity House were empowered, by +special Act of Parliament, to purchase the lights which had been +provided both by the Crown and by private interests, so as to bring the +control under one corporation. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of Messrs. Bullivant & Co., Ltd._ + +HOW THE BEACHY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE WAS BUILT. + +To facilitate erection a cableway was stretched between the top of +Beachy Head and a staging placed beside the site of the tower in the +water. A stone is being sent down.] + +The _chauffer_, however, was an unsatisfactory as well as an expensive +type of beacon. Some of these grates consumed as many as 400 tons of +coal per annum--more than a ton of coal per night--in addition to vast +quantities of wood. Being completely exposed, they were subject to the +caprices of the wind. When a gale blew off the land, the light on the +sea side was of great relative brilliancy; but when off the water, +the side of the fire facing the sea would be quite black, whereas on +the landward side the fire bars were almost melting under the fierce +heat generated by the intense draughts. This was the greater drawback, +because it was, of course, precisely when the wind was making a lee +shore below the beacon that the more brilliant light was required. + +When the Pilgrim Fathers made their historic trek to the United States, +they took Old World ideas with them. The first light provided on the +North American continent was at Point Allerton, the most prominent +headland near the entrance to Boston Harbour, where 400 boatloads of +stone were devoted to the erection of a tower capped with a large +basket of iron in which “fier-bales of pitch and ocum” were burned. +This beacon served the purpose of guiding navigators into and out of +Boston Harbour for several years. + +When, however, the shortcomings of the exposed fire were realized, +attempts were made to evolve a lighting system, which does in reality +constitute the foundation of modern practice. But the beacon fire held +its own for many years after the new principle came into vogue, the +last coal fire in England being the Flat Holme Light, in the Bristol +Channel, which was not superseded until 1822. + +In Scotland the coal fire survived until 1816, one of the most +important of these beacons being that on the Isle of May, in the +Firth of Forth, which fulfilled its function for 181 years. This was +a lofty tower, erected in 1636, on which a primitive type of pulley +was installed for the purpose of raising the fuel to the level of the +brazier, while three men were deputed to the task of stoking the fire. +It was one of the private erections, and the owner of the Isle of May, +the Duke of Portland, in return for maintaining the light, was allowed +to exact a toll from passing vessels. When the welfare of the Scottish +aids to navigation was placed under the control of the Commissioners +of Northern Lighthouses, this body, realizing the importance of the +position, wished to erect upon the island a commanding lighthouse +illuminated with oil lamps; but it was necessary first to buy out the +owner’s rights, and an Act of Parliament was passed authorizing this +action, together with the purchase of the island and the right to levy +tolls, at an expenditure of £60,000, or $300,000. In 1816 the coal fire +was finally extinguished. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of Messrs. Bullivant & Co., Ltd._ + +WORKMEN RETURNING BY THE AERIAL CABLEWAY TO THE TOP OF BEACHY HEAD.] + +The English lights are maintained by the Brethren of Trinity House, and +their cost is defrayed by passing shipping. This corporation received +its first charter during the reign of Henry VIII. Trinity House, as +it is called colloquially, also possesses certain powers over the +Commissioners of Northern Lights and the Commissioners of Irish Lights, +and is itself under the sway, in regard to certain powers, such as the +levy of light dues, of the Board of Trade. This system of compelling +shipowners to maintain the coast lights is somewhat anomalous; it +possesses many drawbacks, and has provoked quaint situations at times. +Thus, when the _Mohegan_ and the _Paris_ were wrecked on the Manacles +within the space of a few months, the outcry for better lighting +of this part of the Devon and Cornish coasts was loud and bitter. +The shipowners clamoured for more protection, but at the same time, +knowing that they would have to foot the bill, maintained that further +lighting was unnecessary. + +The British Isles might very well emulate the example of the United +States, France, Canada, and other countries, which regard coast +lighting as a work of humanity, for the benefit of one and all, and +so defray the cost out of the Government revenues. Some years ago, +when an International Conference was held to discuss this question, +some of the representatives suggested that those nations which give +their lighthouse services free to the world should distinguish against +British shipping, and levy light-dues upon British ships, with a view +to compelling the abolition of the tax upon foreign vessels visiting +British ports. Fortunately, the threat was not carried into execution. + +The design and construction of lighthouses have developed into a highly +specialized branch of engineering. Among the many illustrious names +associated with this phase of enterprise--de Foix, Rudyerd, Smeaton, +Walker, Douglass, Alexander, and Ribière--the Stevenson family stands +pre-eminent. Ever since the maintenance of the Scottish coast lights +was handed over to the Northern Commissioners, the engineering chair +has remained in the hands of this family, the names of whose members +are identified with many lights that have become famous throughout the +world for their daring nature, design, and construction. Moreover, +the family’s contributions to the science of this privileged craft +have been of incalculable value. Robert Louis Stevenson has written a +fascinating story around their exploits in “A Family of Engineers.” + +It was at first intended that the great author himself should follow +in the footsteps of his forbears. He completed his apprenticeship at +the drawing-table under his father and uncle, and became initiated into +the mysteries of the craft. At the outset he apparently had visions of +becoming numbered among those of his family who had achieved eminence +in lighthouse construction, and he often accompanied his father or +uncle on their periodical rounds of inspection. Probably the rough and +tumble life in a small tender among the wild seas of Scotland, the +excitement of landing upon dangerous rocks, the aspect of loneliness +revealed by acquaintance with the keepers, and the following of the +growth of a new tower from its foundations, stirred his imagination, so +that the dormant literary instinct, which, like that of engineering, +he had inherited, became fired. Mathematical formulæ, figures, and +drawings, wrestled for a time with imagination and letters, but the +call of the literary heritage proved triumphant, and, unlike his +grandfather, who combined literature with lighthouse construction, and +who, indeed, was a polished author, as his stirring story of the “Bell +Rock Lighthouse” conclusively shows, he finally threw in his lot with +letters. + +The fact that for more than a century one family has held the exacting +position of chief engineer to the Northern Commissioners, and has +been responsible for the lights around Scotland’s troublous coasts, +is unique in the annals of engineering. Each generation has been +identified with some notable enterprise in this field. Thomas Smith, +the father-in-law of Robert Stevenson, founded the service, and was +the first engineer to the Commissioners. Robert Stevenson assumed his +mantle and produced the “Bell Rock.” His son, Alan Stevenson, was the +creator of the “Skerryvore.” The next in the chain, David Stevenson, +built the “North Unst.” David and Thomas Stevenson, who followed, +contributed the “Dhu-Heartach” and the “Chicken Rock” lights; while +the present generation, David and Charles, have erected such works as +“Rattray Briggs,” “Sule Skerry,” and the Flannen Islands lighthouses. +In addition, the latter have developed lighthouse engineering in +many novel directions, such as the unattended Otter Rock lightship, +the unattended Guernsey lighthouse, and the automatic, acetylene, +fog-signal gun, which are described elsewhere in this volume. + +Some forty years ago the Stevensons also drew up the scheme and +designed the first lighthouses for guarding the coasts of Japan. +The essential optical apparatus and other fittings were built and +temporarily erected in England, then dismantled and shipped to the +East, to be set up in their designed places. The Japanese did not fail +to manifest their characteristic trait in connection with lighthouses +as with other branches of engineering. The structures produced by the +Scottish engineers fulfilled the requirements so perfectly, and were +such excellent models, as to be considered a first-class foundation for +the Japanese lighthouse service. The native engineers took these lights +as their pattern, and, unaided, extended their coast lighting system +upon the lines laid down by the Stevensons. Since that date Japan +has never gone outside her own borders for assistance in lighthouse +engineering. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +BUILDING A LIGHTHOUSE + + +Obviously, the task of erecting a lighthouse varies considerably with +the situation. On the mainland construction is straightforward, and +offers little more difficulty than the building of a house. The work +assumes its most romantic and fascinating form when it is associated +with a small rocky islet out to sea, such as the Eddystone, Skerryvore, +or Minot’s Ledge; or with a treacherous, exposed stretch of sand, +such as that upon which the Rothersand light is raised. Under such +conditions the operation is truly herculean, and the ingenuity and +resource of the engineer are taxed to a superlative degree; then he +is pitted against Nature in her most awful guise. Wind and wave, +moreover, are such formidable and relentless antagonists that for +the most momentary failure of vigilance and care the full penalty +is exacted. Then there are the fiercely scurrying currents, tides, +breakers, and surf, against which battle must be waged, with the odds +so overwhelmingly ranged against frail human endeavour that advance +can only be made by inches. The lighthouse engineer must possess the +patience of a Job, the tenacity of a limpet, a determination which +cannot be measured, and a perseverance which defies galling delays and +repeated rebuffs. Perils of an extreme character beset him on every +hand; thrilling escape and sensational incident are inseparable from +his calling. + +The first step is the survey of the site, the determination of the +character of the rock and of its general configuration, and the takings +of levels and measurements for the foundations. When the rugged hump is +only a few feet in diameter little latitude is afforded the engineer +for selection, but in instances where the islet is of appreciable area +some little time may be occupied in deciding just where the structure +shall be placed. It seems a simple enough task to determine; one +capable of solution within a few minutes, and so for the most part it +is--not from choice, but necessity--when once the surface of the rock +is gained. The paramount difficulty is to secure a landing upon the +site. The islet is certain to be the centre of madly surging currents, +eddies, and surf, demanding wary approach in a small boat, while the +search for a suitable point upon which to plant a foot is invariably +perplexing. Somehow, the majority of these bleak, wave-swept rocks +have only one little place where a landing may be made, and that only +at certain infrequent periods, the discovery of which in the first +instance often taxes the engineer sorely. + +Often weeks will be expended in reconnoitring the position, awaiting +a favourable wind and a placid sea. Time to the surveyor must be +no object. He is the sport of the elements, and he must curb his +impatience. To do otherwise is to court disaster. The actual operations +on the rock may only occupy twenty minutes or so, but the task of +landing is equalled by that of getting off again--the latter frequently +a more hazardous job than the former. + +The west coast of Scotland is dreaded, if such a term may be used, by +the engineer, because the survey inevitably is associated with bitter +disappointments and maddening delays owing to the caprices of the +ocean. This is not surprising when it is remembered that this coastline +is of a cruel, forbidding character and is exposed to the full reach of +the Atlantic, with its puzzling swell and vicious currents. The same +applies to the west coast of Ireland and the open parts of the South +of England. The Casquets, off the coast of Alderney, are particularly +difficult of approach, as they are washed on all sides by wild races of +water. There is only one little cove where a landing may be effected +by stepping directly from a boat, and this place can be approached +only in the calmest weather and when the wind is blowing in a certain +direction. On one occasion, when I had received permission to visit +the lighthouse, I frittered away three weeks in Alderney awaiting a +favourable opportunity to go out, and then gave up the attempt in +disgust. As it happened, another month elapsed before the rock was +approachable to make the relief. + +When the United States Lighthouse Board sanctioned the construction +of the Tillamook lighthouse on the rock of that name, off the Oregon +coast, the engineer in charge of the survey was compelled to wait +six months before he could venture to approach the island. In this +instance, however, his time was not wasted entirely, as there were many +preparations to be completed on the mainland to facilitate construction +when it should be commenced. Early in June, 1879, the weather +moderated, and the Pacific assumed an aspect in keeping with its name. +Stimulated by the prospect of carrying out his appointed task, the +engineer pushed off in a boat, but, to his chagrin, when he drew near +the rock he found the prospects of landing to be hopeless. He cruised +about, reconnoitring generally from the water, and then returned to +shore somewhat disgusted. + +A fortnight later he was instructed to take up his position at Astoria, +to keep a sharp eye on the weather, to take the first chance that +presented itself of gaining the rock, and not to return to headquarters +until he had made a landing. He fretted and fumed day after day, and +at last pushed off with a gang of men when the sea where it lapped +the beach of the mainland was as smooth as a lake; but as they drew +near the Tillamook it was the same old story. A treacherous swell +was running, the waves were curling wickedly and fussily around the +islet; but the engineer had made up his mind that he would be balked +no longer, so the boat was pulled in warily, in the face of terrible +risk, and two sailors were ordered to get ashore by hook or by crook. +The boat swung to and fro in the swell. Time after time it was carried +forward to the landing spot by a wave, and then, just as the men were +ready to jump, the receding waters would throw it back. At last, as +it swung by the spot, the two men gave a leap and landed safely. The +next proceeding was to pass instruments ashore, but the swell, as if +incensed at the partial success achieved, grew more boisterous, and the +boat had to back away from the rock. The men who had landed, and who +had not moved a yard from the spot they had gained, became frightened +at this manœuvre, and, fearing that they might be marooned, jumped into +the sea, and were pulled into the boat by means of their life-lines, +without having accomplished a stroke. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE SANGANEB REEF LIGHTHOUSE IN THE RED SEA. + +It indicates a treacherous coral reef, 703 miles from Suez. It is an +iron tower 180 feet high, with a white flashing light having a range of +19 miles.] + +The engineer chafed under these disappointments, and himself determined +to incur the risk of landing at all hazards. With his tape-line in +his pocket, he set out once more a few days later, and in a surf-boat +pulled steadily into the froth and foam around the rock; while the men +sawed to and fro the landing-place, he crouched in the bow, watching +his opportunity. Presently, the boat steadying itself for a moment, he +made a spring and reached the rock. He could not get his instruments +ashore, so without loss of time he ran his line from point to point as +rapidly as he could, jotted down hurried notes, and, when the swell was +growing restive again, hailed the boat, and at a favourable moment, as +it manœuvred round, jumped into it. + +The details he had secured, though hastily prepared, were sufficient +for the purpose. His report was considered and the character of the +beacon decided. There was some discussion as to the most favourable +situation for the light upon the rock, so a more detailed survey +was demanded to settle this problem. This task was entrusted to an +Englishman, Mr. John R. Trewavas, who was familiar with work under such +conditions. He was a master-mason of Portland and had been engaged +upon the construction of the Wolf Rock, one of the most notable and +difficult works of its kind in the history of lighthouse engineering. + +He pushed off to the rock on September 18, 1879, in a surf-boat, only +to find the usual state of things prevailing. The boat was run in, and, +emulating the first engineer’s feat, he cleared the water and landed +on the steep, rocky slope; but it was wet and slippery, and his feet +played him false. He stumbled, and stooped to regain his balance, but +just then a roller curled in, snatched him up and threw him into +the whirlpool of currents. Life-lines were thrown, and the surf-boat +struggled desperately to get near him, but he was dragged down by the +undertow and never seen again. This fatality scared his companions, +who returned hastily to the mainland. The recital of their dramatic +story stirred the public to such a pitch that the authorities were +frantically urged to abandon the project of lighting the Tillamook. + +Mr. David Stevenson related to me an exciting twenty minutes which +befell him and his brother while surveying a rock off the west coast +of Scotland. They had been waiting patiently for a favourable moment +to effect a landing, and when at last it appeared they drew in and +clambered ashore. But they could not advance another inch. The rock was +jagged and broken, while its surface was as slippery as ice owing to a +thick covering of slimy seaweed whereon boots could not possibly secure +a hold. Having gained the rock with so much difficulty, they were not +going away empty-handed. As they could not stand in their boots, they +promptly removed them, and, taking their line and levels, picked their +way gingerly over the jagged, slippery surface in their stockinged +feet. Movement certainly was exceedingly uncomfortable, because their +toes displayed an uncanny readiness to find every needle-point on the +islet; but the wool of their footwear enabled them to obtain a firm +grip upon the treacherous surface, without the risk of being upset and +having a limb battered or broken in the process. Twenty minutes were +spent in making investigations under these disconcerting conditions, +but the time was adequate to provide all the details required. When +they had completed the survey and had regained their boat--a matter of +no little difficulty in the circumstances--their feet bore sad traces +of the ordeal through which they had passed. However, their one concern +was the completion of the survey; that had been made successfully and +was well worth the toll exacted in the form of physical discomfort. + +[Illustration: THE ALCATRAZ LIGHTHOUSE UNDER CONSTRUCTION. + +THE ALCATRAZ LIGHTHOUSE COMPLETED. + +This tower off the Californian coast is one of the latest works of the +American Lighthouse Department. It has a range of 21 miles.] + +As a rule, on a wave-swept rock which only shows itself at short +intervals during the day, the preparation of the foundations is not +an exacting task. A little paring with chisels and dynamite may be +requisite here and there, but invariably the engineer takes the exposed +surface as the basis for his work. The sea has eaten away all the +soft, friable material in its ceaseless erosion, leaving an excellent +foundation to which the superstructure can be keyed to become as solid +as the rock itself. + +When the beacon is to be erected upon a sandy bottom, the engineer’s +work becomes more baffling, as he is compelled to carry his underwater +work down to a point where a stable foundation may be secured. When +the Leasowe lighthouse was built on the sandy Wirral shore, the +builders were puzzled by the lack of a suitable foundation for the +masonry tower. An ingenious way out of the difficulty was effected. +In the vicinity an incoming ship, laden with a cargo of cotton, had +gone ashore and had become a total wreck. The cotton was useless for +its intended purpose, so the bales were salvaged and dumped into the +sand at the point where the lighthouse was to be erected. The fleecy +mass settled into the sand, and under compression became as solid as a +rock, while its permanency was assured by its complete submersion. The +stability of this strange foundation may be gathered from the fact that +the tower erected thereon stood, and shed its welcome light regularly +every night, for about a century and a half, only being extinguished +two or three years ago as it was no longer required. + +In the Old World, and, indeed, in the great majority of instances, +the lighthouse is what is described as a “monolithic structure,” +being built of courses of masonry, the blocks of which are dovetailed +together not only laterally, but also perpendicularly, so that, when +completed, the tower comprises a solid mass with each stone jointed +to its fellow on four or five of its six sides. This method was first +tried in connection with the Hanois lighthouse, off the Guernsey coast, +and was found so successful that it has been adopted universally in all +lighthouses which are exposed to the action of the waves. + +The upper face and one end of each block are provided with projections, +while the lower face and the other end are given indentations. +Thus, when the block is set in position, the projections fit into +corresponding indentations in the adjacent blocks, while the +indentations receive the projections from two other neighbouring +pieces. The whole is locked together by the aid of hydraulic cement. +Consequently the waves, or any other agency, cannot possibly dislodge +a stone without breaking the dovetails or smashing the stone itself. +For the bottom layer, of course, the surface of the rock is pared away +sufficiently to receive the stone, which is bedded in cement adhering +to both the rock and the superimposed block. A hole is then drilled +through the latter deep into the rock beneath, into which a steel rod +or bolt is driven well home, and the hole is sealed up with cement +forced in under such pressure as to penetrate every interstice and +crevice. + +The iron supports constitute the roots, as it were, of the tower, +penetrating deep into the heart of the rock to secure a firm grip, +while the tower itself resembles, in its general appearance, a +symmetrical tree trunk, this form offering the minimum of resistance to +the waves. The lower part of the tower is made completely solid by the +dovetailing of the integral blocks, and is cylindrical in shape up to a +certain predetermined level which varies according to the surrounding +conditions and the situation of the light. Some years ago the +lighthouse assumed its trunk-like shape at the bottom course, rising +in a graceful concave curve to the lantern; but this method has been +abandoned, inasmuch as, owing to the decreasing diameter of the tower +as it rose course by course above its foundations, the lowest outer +rings of masonry did not have to withstand any of the superimposed +weight, which naturally bears in a vertical line. By carrying the +lower part to a certain height in the form of a cylinder, and then +commencing the concave curve of the tower, the pressure of the latter +is imposed equally upon the whole of its foundations. The latter may be +stepped--_i.e._, one tier of stones may project a little beyond that of +the one immediately above--but this arrangement is adopted in order to +break the smashing force of the waves. + +The conditions attending the actual building operations upon the +rock, which may be accessible only for an hour or two per day in calm +weather, prevent the blocks of granite being shaped and trimmed upon +the site. Accordingly, the lighthouse in the first place is erected +piecemeal on shore. A horizontal course of stones is laid to see that +each dovetail fits tightly and dead true. The next course is laid upon +this, and so on for perhaps eight or ten courses, the trimming and +finicking being accomplished as the work proceeds. Each projection has +to be only just big enough to enter its relative indentation, while +the latter must be exactly of the requisite dimensions to receive the +projection, and no more. Each stone is then given an identification +mark, so that the masons on the rock may perceive at a glance its +precise position in a course, and to what ring of stones it belongs. +Therefore the mason at the site has no anxiety about a stone fitting +accurately; he has merely to set it in position upon its bed of cement. + +On shore--generally in the quarry yard--when a series of courses +have been temporarily built up in this manner and have received the +critical approbation of the resident engineer, the topmost course is +removed and retained, while the other blocks are despatched to the +site. This topmost course forms the bottom ring in the next section +of the lighthouse which is built up in the yard, and the topmost +course of this section in turn is held to form the bottom course of +the succeeding part of the tower, and so on from foundation to lantern +parapet. + +During the past two or three years reinforced concrete has been +employed to a certain extent for lighthouse construction, but granite +of the finest and hardest quality still remains the material _par +excellence_ for towers erected in exposed, sea-swept positions. The +Russian lighthouse authorities have adopted the ferro-concrete system +in regard to one or two shore lights, especially on the Black Sea, +while another fine structure upon this principle was built by the +French _Service des Phares_ in 1905 at the entrance to the River +Gironde. The system has also been adopted by the Canadian lighthouse +authorities; one or two recent notable lights under their jurisdiction +have been constructed in this material, although on somewhat different +lines from those almost invariably followed, so far as the general +design is concerned. + +While the masonry or monolithic structure is the most durable and +substantial structure, it is also the most expensive. In many parts of +the world, notably along the Atlantic coastline of the United States, +what are known as “screw-pile lighthouses” are used. These buildings +vary in form, some resembling a huge beacon, such as indicates the +entrance to a river, while others convey the impression of being +bungalows or pavilions on stilts. The legs are stout, cylindrical, iron +members, the lower ends of which are shaped somewhat after the manner +of an auger, whereby they may be screwed into the sea-bed--hence the +name. This system has been employed for beacons over dangerous shoals; +and while they are somewhat squat, low-lying lights, they have proved +to be highly serviceable. + +Iron has been employed also for lighthouse constructional work, +the system in this case being a combination of the screw pile +and the tower, the latter, extending from a platform whereon the +living-quarters are placed and mounted clear of the water, on piles, +being a huge cylindrical pipe crowned by the lantern. One of the +most interesting and novel of these iron lighthouses is the Hunting +Island tower off the coast of South Carolina. In general design it +resembles the ordinary lighthouse wrought in masonry, and it is 121½ +feet in height from the ground to the focal plane. It is built of iron +throughout, the shell being in the form of panels, each of which weighs +1,200 pounds. + +This type of tower was selected owing to the severe erosion of the sea +at the point where it is placed. When it was erected in 1875, at a cost +of £20,400, or $102,000, it was planted a quarter of a mile back from +the sea. This action was severely criticized at the time, it being +maintained that the light was set too far from the water’s edge to +be of practical value; but the hungry ocean disappointed the critics, +because in the course of a few years the intervening strip of shore +disappeared, and the necessity of demolishing the light and re-erecting +it farther inland arose. On this occasion the engineers determined to +postpone a second removal for some time. The tower was re-erected at +a point one and a quarter miles inland, and the sum of £10,200, or +$51,000, was expended upon the undertaking. The iron system, which +was adopted, proved its value in this work of removal piece by piece, +because, had the tower been carried out in masonry, it would have been +cheaper to set up a new light, as was done at Cape Henry. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.--SECTIONAL DIAGRAM OF THE AR-MEN LIGHTHOUSE, +SHOWING YEARLY PROGRESS IN CONSTRUCTION. + +It guards the “Bay of the Dead,” off Cape Finisterre. Commenced in +1867, it was not finished until 1881.] + +Some of the American coast lights are of the most primitive and +odd-looking character, comprising merely a lofty skeleton of ironwork. +The lamp is a head-light, such as is carried by railway engines, fitted +with a parabolic reflector. Every morning the lamp is lowered, cleaned, +and stored in a shack at the foot of the pyramid, to be lighted and +hauled into position at dusk. This is the most economical form of +lighthouse which has been devised, the total cost of the installation +being only about £2,500, or $12,500, while the maintenance charges +are equally low. Lights of this description are employed for the most +part in connection with the lighting of waterways, constituting what +is known as the “back-light” in a range or group of lights studded +along the river to guide the navigator through its twists and shallows, +instead of buoying of the channel. + +The task of constructing a sea-rock lighthouse is as tedious and +protracted an enterprise as one could conceive, because the engineer +and his workmen are entirely at the mercy of the weather. Each great +work has bristled with its particular difficulties; each has presented +its individual problems for solution. Few modern lighthouses, however, +have so baffled the engineer and have occupied such a number of years +in completion, as the Ar-men light off Cape Finisterre. This tower +was commenced in 1867, but so great and so many were the difficulties +involved in its erection that the light was not first thrown over the +Atlantic from its lantern until 1881. + +This light is situated at one of the most dreaded parts of a sinister +coast. At this spot a number of granite points thrust themselves +at times above the water in an indentation which has received the +lugubrious name Bay of the Dead. The title is well deserved, for it +is impossible to say how many ships have gone down through fouling +these greedy fangs, or how many lives have been lost in its vicinity. +The waters around the spot are a seething race of currents, eddies, +and whirlpools. It is an ocean graveyard in very truth, and although +mariners are only too cognizant of its terrible character, and +endeavour to give this corner of the European mainland a wide birth, +yet storms and fogs upset the calculations of the most careful +navigators. + +[Illustration: THE THIMBLE SHOALS LIGHT. + +A typical example of the American iron screw pile system. A vessel ran +into this beacon and wrecked it; the ruins caught fire, and the keepers +only escaped in the nick of time.] + +As the streams of traffic across the Bay of Biscay grew denser and +denser, it became imperative to provide a guardian light at this +spot, and the engineers embarked upon their task. They knew well that +they were faced with a daring and trying enterprise, and weeks were +spent in these troubled waters seeking for the most favourable site. +As a result of their elaborate surveys, they decided that the rock +of Ar-men offered the only suitable situation; but what a precarious +foundation upon which to lift a massive masonry tower! The hump is only +25 feet wide by 50 feet in length; no more than three little pinnacles +projected above the sea-level, and at low-tide less than 5 feet of the +tough gneiss were exposed. Nor was this the most adverse feature. The +rock is in the centre of the bad waters, and is swept from end to end, +under all conditions of weather, by the furious swell. Some idea of the +prospect confronting the engineers may be gathered from the fact that a +whole year was spent in the effort to make one landing to take levels. + +When construction was taken in hand the outlook was even more +appalling. It was as if the sea recognized that its day of plunder was +to draw to a close. The workmen were brought, with all materials +and appliances, to the nearest strategical point on the mainland, +where a depot was established. Yet in the course of two years the +workmen, although they strove day after day to land upon the rock, +only succeeded twenty-three times, while during this period only +twenty-six hours’ work was accomplished! It is not surprising that, +when the men did land, they toiled like Trojans to make the most of the +brief interval. The sum of their work in this time was the planting +of the lighthouse’s roots in the form of fifty-five circular bars, +each 2 inches in diameter and spaced 3¼ feet apart at a depth of about +12 inches in the granite mass. By the end of 1870 the cylindrical +foundation had crept a few feet above the highest projection; this +plinth was 24 feet in diameter, 18 feet in height, and was solid +throughout. A greater diameter was impossible as the wall was brought +almost to the edge of the rock. + +By dint of great effort this part of the work was completed by the end +of 1874, which year, by the way, showed the greatest advance that had +been attained in a single twelvemonth. As much of the foundations was +completed in this year as had been achieved during the three previous +years. Although the heavy gales pounded the structure mercilessly, so +well was the masonry laid that it offered quite effective resistance. +Upon this plinth was placed the base of the tower. This likewise is 24 +feet in diameter, and about 10 feet in height. It is also of massive +construction, being solid except for a central cylindrical space which +is capable of receiving some 5 tons of coal. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Bullivant & Co., Ltd._ + +SETTING THE LAST STONE OF THE BEACHY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE.] + +The base was completed in a single year, and in 1876 the erection +of the tower proper was commenced, together with the completion of +the approaching stairway leading from the water-level to the base of +the structure. The latter, divided into seven stories, rises in the +form of a slender cone, tapering from a diameter of 21½ feet at the +bottom to 16½ feet at the top beneath the lantern. Some idea of the +massive character of the work which was demanded in order to resist +the intense fury of the waves may be realized when it is mentioned +that the wall at the first and second floors is 5½ feet in thickness, +leaving a diameter of 10 feet for the apartment on the first floor, +which is devoted to the storage of water, and of 7 feet for that on +the second floor, which contains the oil reservoirs for the lamps. +The living-rooms have a diameter of 11 feet, this increased space +being obtained by reducing the thickness of the wall to 2½ feet. The +erection of the superstructure went forward steadily, five years being +occupied in carrying the masonry from the base to the lantern gallery, +so that in 1881 for the first time powerful warning was given of a +danger dreaded, and often unavoidable, from the time when ships first +sailed these seas. Fifteen years’ labour and peril on the part of the +engineers and their assistants were crowned with success. + +Whereas the Ar-men light off Cape Finisterre demanded fifteen years +for its completion, the construction of the Beachy Head lighthouse off +the South of England coast was completed within a few months. It is +true that the conditions were vastly dissimilar, but the Sussex shore +is exposed to the full brunt of the south-westerly and south-easterly +gales. This lighthouse thrusts its slender lines from the water, +its foundations being sunk into the chalk bed of the Channel, 550 +feet from the base of the towering white cliffs, which constitute a +striking background. This beacon was brought into service in 1902, its +construction having occupied about two years. The light formerly was +placed on the crown of the precipice behind, but, being then some 285 +feet above the water, was far from being satisfactory, as its rays +were frequently blotted out by the ruffle of mist which gathers around +Beachy Head on the approach of evening. + +Indeed, this is one of the great objections to placing a light upon a +lofty headland. In such a position it does not serve as an aid, but +more often than not as a danger, to navigation, owing to the light +being invisible at the time when its assistance is required and sought +most urgently. Consequently lighthouse engineers endeavour to set their +towers at such a level that the light is not raised more than from +160 to 200 feet above the water. In the case of Beachy Head, a further +reason for a new structure was the disintegration of the cliff upon +which the light stood, under the terrific poundings of the sea, huge +falls of chalk having occurred from time to time, which imperilled the +safety of the building. + +When the new lighthouse was taken in hand, investigation of the +sea-bed revealed an excellent foundation in the dense hard chalk, and +accordingly a hole 10 feet deep was excavated out of the solid mass +to receive the footings of the building. As the site is submerged to +a great depth at high-tide, the first operation was the erection of +a circular dam carried to a sufficient height to enable the men to +toil within. By this arrangement the working spells were lengthened +considerably, labour only being suspended at high-tide. When the sea +ebbed below the edge of the dam, the water within was pumped out, +leaving a dry clear space for the workmen. Excavation had to be carried +out with pickaxe and shovel, blasting not being permitted for fear of +shattering and splitting up the mass forming the crust of the sea-bed. + +Beside the site a substantial iron staging was erected, and from +this point to the top of the cliffs behind a Bullivant cableway was +stretched, up and down which the various requirements were carried, +together with the workmen. This cableway, designed by Mr. W. T. H. +Carrington, M.I.C.E., consulting engineer to Messrs. Bullivant and Co., +Ltd., facilitated rapid and economical construction very appreciably. +The span was about 600 feet between the erecting stage and the cliff +summit, and there were two fixed ropes stretched parallel from point +to point. One rope, 6 inches in diameter, had a breaking strain of 120 +tons; the second, 5½ inches thick, had a breaking strain of 100 tons. +At the seaward end the cables were anchored into the solid chalk. +Everything required for the constructional operations was handled by +this carrying system, and when it is recalled that some of the blocks +for the lower courses weighed from 4½ to 5 tons, it will be recognized +that such a method of handling these ungainly loads, with the care +that was demanded to preserve the edges and faces from injury, solved +an abstruse problem completely. + +The base of the tower, the diameter of which is 47 feet, is solid to +a height of 48 feet, except for a central circular space for storing +drinking water. It was designed by Sir Thomas Matthews, M.I.C.E., the +Engineer-in-Chief to the Trinity Brethren, and is a graceful building, +the tower rising in a curve which is described as a “concave elliptic +frustum.” From the base to the lantern gallery is 123½ feet, and 3,660 +tons of Cornish granite were used in its construction. The over-all +height to the top of the lantern is 153 feet. The building is provided +with eight floors, comprising the living and sleeping quarters for +the keepers, storage of oil, and other necessaries. The light, of +the dioptric order, is of 83,000 candle-power, and the two white +flashes given every fifteen seconds are distinguishable for a distance +of seventeen miles, which is the average range of modern British +lighthouses. + +Although the constructional work was frequently interrupted by rough +weather, every advantage was taken of calm periods. While from the +point of daring engineering it does not compare with many of the other +great lights of the world, yet it certainly ranks as a fine example +of the lighthouse builder’s skill. Owing to the elaborate precautions +observed, the achievement was not marred by a single fatality, although +there were many thrilling moments, the sole result of which, however, +was the loss of tools and sections of the plant, which in the majority +of cases were recovered when the tide fell. The most serious accident +was a crushed toe, which befell one of the masons when a stone was +being bedded. + +Although the lighthouse is subjected to the full fury of wind and wave, +if skilfully erected it will withstand the ravages of both without +creating the slightest apprehensions in the engineer’s mind. The stones +are prepared so carefully that they fit one another like the proverbial +glove, while the cement fills every nook and cranny. Occasionally, +however, the cement will succumb to the natural disintegrating forces, +and, becoming detached, reveal a point vulnerable to attack. The air +within the interstice becomes compressed by the surging water, and +thereby the fabric is liable to be shattered. Some years ago one or +two of the lighthouses guarding the Great Lakes of North America +were found to have become weakened from this cause. A novel remedy +was evolved by an ingenious engineer. He provided each tottering +lighthouse with an iron overcoat, enveloping it from top to bottom. +The metal was not laid directly upon the masonry, but was so placed +as to leave about a quarter of an inch between the inner face of the +metal and the surface of the masonry. Liquid cement was then admitted +under pressure--“grouting” it is called--into this annular space, +and penetrating every crack and crevice in the masonry, and adhering +both to the metal and the stonework, it practically formed another +intermediate jacket, binding the two so firmly together as to make them +virtually one. This novel procedure absolutely restored the menaced +building to its original homogeneity and rigidity, so that it became as +sound as the day on which it was built. + +Nowadays, owing to the skill in designing and the workmanship +displayed, one never hears of a modern lighthouse collapsing. Expense +is no object; the engineer does not endeavour to thwart the elements, +but follows a design wherein the minimum of resistance is offered to +them. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE LIGHT AND ILLUMINANTS + + +While it is the tower that probably creates the deepest impression +upon the popular mind, owing to the round of difficulties overcome +associated with its erection, yet, after all, it is the light which +is the vital thing to the navigator. To him symmetry of outline in +the tower, the searching problems that had to be solved before it was +planted in a forbidding spot, the risks that were incurred in its +erection--these are minor details. His one concern is the light thrown +from the topmost height, warning him to keep off a dangerous spot and +by its characteristic enabling him to determine his position. + +I have described the earliest type of light, the open wood or coal +fire blazing on an eminence. In due course the brazier gave way to +tallow candles. This was an advance, certainly, but the range of the +naked light was extremely limited. Consequently efforts were made to +intensify it and to throw it in the desired direction. The first step +was made with a reflector placed behind the illuminant, similar to that +used with the cheap wall-lamp so common in village workshops. This, in +its improved form, is known as the “catoptric system,” the reflector +being of parabolic shape, with the light so disposed that all its rays +(both horizontal and vertical) are reflected in one direction by the +aid of a highly polished surface. While the catoptric system is still +used on some light-vessels, its application to important lighthouses +has fallen into desuetude, as it has been superseded by vastly improved +methods. But the reflector, made either of silvered glass set in a +plaster-of-Paris mould or of brightly polished metallic surfaces, +held the field until the great invention of Augustin Fresnel, which +completely revolutionized the science of lighthouse optics. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.--FIXED APPARATUS OF 360 DEGREES. + +Shows one ray throughout the complete circle. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +Fresnel was appointed a member of the French Lighthouse Commission in +1811, and he realized the shortcomings of the existing catoptric method +only too well. Everyone knows that when a lamp is lighted the luminous +rays are diffused on every side, horizontally as well as vertically. In +lighthouse operations the beam has to be thrown in a horizontal line +only, while the light which is shed towards the top and bottom must be +diverted, so that the proportion of waste luminosity may be reduced to +the minimum. While the parabolic reflector achieved this end partially, +it was far from being satisfactory, and Fresnel set to work to condense +the whole of the rays into a horizontal beam. Buffon, a contemporary +investigator, as well as Sir David Brewster, had suggested that the end +might be met by building up a lens in separate concentric rings, but +neither reduced his theories to practice. + +Fresnel invented a very simple system. He took a central piece of +glass, which may be described as a bull’s-eye, and around this +disposed a number of concentric rings of glass. But these rings +projected beyond one another. Each constituted the edge of a lens +which, while its radius differed from that of its neighbour, owing to +its position, yet was of the same focus in regard to the source of +illumination. The parts were shaped with extreme care and were united +in position by the aid of fish glue, the whole being mounted in a +metal frame. The advantage of the system was apparent in the first +demonstrations. The lenses being comparatively thin, only one-tenth of +the light passing through was absorbed, whereas in the old parabolic +reflectors one-half of the light was lost. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.--SINGLE FLASHING APPARATUS (ONE PANEL AND +MIRROR). + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +This revolutionary development was perfected in 1822, and in the +following year it was submitted to its first practical application +on the tower of Cordouan in the Gironde. Several modifications were +made by the inventor for the purpose of adapting his system to varying +conditions. One of the most important was the disposition of lenses +and mirrors above the optical apparatus for the purpose of collecting +and driving back the rays which were sent out vertically from the +illuminant, so that they might be mingled with the horizontal beam, +thereby reinforcing it. At a later date similar equiangular prisms +were placed below the horizontal beam so as to catch the light thrown +downwards from the luminous source, the result being that finally none, +or very little, of the light emitted by the illuminant was lost, except +by absorption in the process of bending the rays into the desired +direction. + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.--A TWENTY-FOUR PANEL LIGHT, WHICH WAS INTRODUCED +INTO CERTAIN FRENCH LIGHTHOUSES.] + +In this ingenious manner the circle of light is divided into sections, +called “panels,” each of which comprises its bull’s-eye and its +group of concentric rings and prisms. The extent of this division +varies appreciably, as many as sixteen panels being utilized in some +instances. In this direction, however, subdivision can be carried too +far. Thus, in some of the French lighthouses no less than twenty-four +panels were introduced. The disadvantage is obvious. The total volume +of light emitted from the luminous source has to be divided into +twenty-four parts, one for each panel. But the fewer the panels, the +more light is thrown through each, and the correspondingly greater +power of the beam. Thus, in a four-panel light each beam will be six +times as powerful as that thrown from a twenty-four panel apparatus of +the same type. + +Fresnel also introduced the system of revolving the optical apparatus, +and by the introduction of suitable devices was able to give the light +a flashing characteristic, so that it became possible to provide +a means of identifying a light from a distance entirely by the +peculiarity of its flash. The French authorities were so impressed with +the wonderful improvement produced by Fresnel’s epoch-making invention +that it was adopted immediately for all French lights. Great Britain +followed suit a few years later, while other countries embraced the +system subsequently, so that the Fresnel lens eventually came into +universal use. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.--A FOUR-PANEL LIGHT. + +The ray thrown through each panel is six times as powerful as the beam +thrown through a twenty-four panel apparatus.] + +But the Frenchman’s ingenious invention has been developed out of +recognition. To-day only the fundamental basis is retained. Marked +improvements were made by Mr. Alan Stevenson, the famous Scottish +lighthouse engineer. In fact, he carried the idea to a far greater +degree than Fresnel ever contemplated, and in some instances even +anticipated the latter’s subsequent modifications and improvements. +This was demonstrated more particularly in the holophotal revolving +apparatus, the first example of which he designed for the North +Ronaldshay lighthouse in 1850, a similar apparatus being devised some +years later by Fresnel. In 1862 another great improvement was made by +Mr. J. T. Chance, of the well-known lighthouse engineering firm of +Birmingham, which proved so successful that it was incorporated for +first and third order apparatuses in the New Zealand lights designed by +Messrs. Stevenson in the same year. + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.--SINGLE APPARATUS IN FOUR PANELS. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +The French and British investigators, however, were not having things +entirely their own way. The United States played a part in these +developments, although they did not enter very successfully into the +problem. The first lighthouse at Boston Harbour carried candles until +superseded by an ordinary lamp, which was hung in the lantern in much +the same way as it might have been suspended behind the window of a +private dwelling. An inventor, Mr. Winslow Lewis, who confessed that +he knew nothing about lighthouse optics, patented what he called a +“magnifying and reflecting lantern” for lighthouse work, which he +claimed was a lamp, a reflector, and a magnifier, all in one. It was as +crude a device as has ever emanated from an inventive brain, but the +designer succeeded in impressing the Government so effectively that +they gave him £4,000, or $20,000, for his invention. The reflector was +wrought of thin copper with a silvered surface, while the magnifier, +the essence of the invention, was what he called a “lens,” but which +in reality comprised only a circular transparent mass, 9 inches in +diameter, and varying from 2½ to 4 inches in thickness, made of +bottle-green glass. The Government considered that it had acquired a +valuable invention, and was somewhat dismayed by the blunt opinion +of one of its inspectors who held contrary views concerning the +magnifier, inasmuch as he reported cynically that its only merit was +that it made “a bad light worse.” + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.--DOUBLE FLASHING APPARATUS: TWO PANELS AND +MIRROR. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.--DOUBLE FLASHING APPARATUS: TWO GROUPS EACH OF +TWO PANELS. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +The inventor did not manifest any antagonism to this criticism, but +immediately pointed out the great economy in the consumption of oil +that was arising from the use of his idea. Indeed, he prosecuted his +claims so successfully that he clinched a profitable bargain to himself +with the Government. His apparatus had been fitted to thirty-four +lights, and he contracted to maintain them on the basis of receiving +one-half of the oil previously consumed by the lamps which his +invention superseded. This arrangement was in vogue for five years, +when it was renewed, with the difference that on this occasion the +Government, concluding that the inventor was making too much out of +the transaction, reduced the allowance to one-third. Subsequently the +invention received higher commendation from the officials than that +advanced by the critical inspector, although it must be pointed out +that meanwhile the magnifying bull’s-eye had been abandoned, and a +new type of reflector introduced, so that the sole remaining feature +of the wonderful invention was the lamp. Even that had been modified. +When the Lighthouse Board was established in 1852 it abolished the +much-discussed invention, and introduced the Fresnel system, bringing +the United States into line with the rest of the world. + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.--TRIPLE FLASHING APPARATUS: THREE PANELS AND +MIRROR. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +One feature of the subject cannot fail to arrest attention. This +is the possibility of producing a variety of combinations by the +aid of the lenses to fulfil different requirements. The Fresnel, +Stevenson, and Chance developments in the science of lighthouse optics +facilitated this work very significantly. Accordingly, to-day a +variety of lights, evolved from the variations in the mounting of the +lenses, is in vogue. For purposes of identification they have been +divided into a number of classifications, and, for the convenience +of the navigator, are described as lights of the first order, second +order, and so on. Broadly speaking, there are seven main groups, or +orders, the rating only applying to dioptric or catadioptric lights, +indicating the bending of the luminous rays in the desired direction, +either by refraction and reflection through the medium of prisms, or a +combination of both. Actually there is a distinction between these two, +the true dioptric system referring only to refraction, where the ray is +bent in the desired direction by a glass agent, known as a “refracting +prism.” In the catadioptric system, on the other hand, both methods are +employed, since the prism performs the dual purpose of reflecting and +refracting the rays. However, in modern lighthouse parlance both are +grouped under the one distinction “dioptric.” + +The rating or classification of the lights varies according to the +inside radius or focal distance of the lens--in other words, the +distance from the centre of the light to the inner surface of the lens. +The main groups are as follows: + + Hyperradial, 1,330 millimetres (52·3 inches) focal distance. + 1st order, 920 ” (36·2 ” ) ” + 2nd ” 700 ” (27·6 ” ) ” + 3rd ” 500 ” (19·7 ” ) ” + 3½ ” 375 ” (14·7 ” ) ” + 4th ” 250 ” ( 9·8 ” ) ” + 5th ” 187·5 ” ( 7·4 ” ) ” + 6th ” 150 ” ( 5·9 ” ) ” + +The most powerful apparatus used to-day, however, is that known as the +“hyperradiant,” and it is the largest which has yet been devised. For +this, lighthouse engineering is indebted to Messrs. Stevenson, the +engineers to the Commissioners of Northern Lighthouses. It was first +suggested as far back as 1869, and experiments were carried out which +emphasized the fact that such an apparatus was required, since it +was found that when large gas-burners were used much of the light in +revolving apparatuses was out of focus and escaped condensation. The +Scottish engineers thereupon suggested that an apparatus should be +used having a focal distance of 1,330 millimetres, or 52·3 inches. In +fact, they went farther and suggested even larger apparatuses, but this +idea has not matured. But it was not until 1885 that Messrs. Stevenson +had such a system manufactured, and then it was tested at the South +Foreland beside the powerful lenses which had just been built for +the new Eddystone and the Mew Island lighthouses. The merits of the +theories advanced by Messrs. Stevenson were then completely proved, for +it was found that with a ten-ring gas-burner the hyperradiant apparatus +threw a light nearly twice as powerful as that given by the rival +lenses with the same burner. + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.--QUADRUPLE FLASHING APPARATUS: FOUR PANELS. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +At the present moment the hyperradiant is regarded as the _ultima +thule_ of lighthouse optical engineering, and Messrs. Chance Brothers +and Co., of Birmingham, have built some very magnificent apparatuses of +this order. At present there are not more than a dozen such powerful +lights in operation. Three are on the English coast, at Bishop Rock, +Spurn Point, and Round Island, respectively; two in Scotland, at +Fair Isle and Sule Skerry; two in Ireland, at Bull Rock and Tory +Island; one in France, at Cap d’Antifer; one in China, at Pei Yu-shan; +one in India, at Manora Point, Karachi; and the Cape Race light in +Newfoundland. The hyperradiant apparatus is a massive cage of glass, +standing some 12 feet in height, and, as may be supposed, is extremely +expensive. + +There is another point in lighthouse optics which demands explanation. +This is the term “divergence,” which plays an important part in the +duration of the flash. In speaking about focus, the engineer follows +somewhat in Euclid’s footsteps in regard to the definition of a point; +in a way it is equally imaginary. The focal point does not mean the +whole of the flame, but the centre of the luminous source, and, as is +obvious, it is impossible to secure a flame without dimensions. It may +be an attenuated, round, oval, or fan-shaped light--the result is the +same. The focal point is the theoretical centre of the luminous source, +and the rays, coming from the top, sides, and bottom of the flame +cannot come from the true focus. If they did, all the light from one +panel would be emitted in absolutely parallel lines, and therefore in a +revolving apparatus the beam would pass any given point on the horizon +in an infinitely short period of time--to be precise, instantaneously. +But the ex-focal rays of the flame, in passing through the lens, emerge +at an angle to those coming from the absolute centre, so that the whole +beam becomes “diverged,” and throws a cone of light from the lens. +Consequently the beam occupies an appreciable period of time in passing +a given point on the horizon. + +As may be supposed, the intricate character of the lenses constituting +the optical apparatus of the modern lighthouse demands the highest +skill and infinite care in their preparation, while the composition +of the glass itself is a closely guarded secret. There are less than +half a dozen firms in the world engaged in this delicate and highly +specialized work, of which France claims three, Germany one, and +Great Britain one. All the lighthouse authorities of the various +nations have to secure their requirements from one or other of these +organizations. The industry commenced in France, and for many years the +French reigned supreme. Then it contrived to make its entrance into +England, and was taken up by the family of Chance in Birmingham, who +soon proved themselves equal to their French leaders. + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.--RED AND WHITE FLASHING APPARATUS. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +The British firm has established a unique reputation, as it has been +responsible for the majority of the great lights of the world, some of +which are not only of huge dimensions and weight, but also of novel +form. The hyperradial apparatuses which have been placed recently in +the towers of Manora Point and Cape Race probably rank as the most +powerful and the finest in existence. These are used in conjunction +with the petroleum vapour incandescent burner. The Cape Race light, +for instance, comprises a revolving optic of four panels, subtending +a horizontal angle of 90 degrees, with a vertical angle of 121½ +degrees. Each lens comprises the central disc, or bull’s-eye, around +which are placed nine rings of glass, giving a total refracting angle +of 57 degrees. In order to bend the vertical rays into a horizontal +path twenty-two catadioptric reflecting prisms are disposed above +the lens, while below are thirteen similar prisms. The total amount +of glass worked into the four panels is about 6,720 pounds, and the +prisms are mounted in gun-metal frames, which weigh approximately +4,800 pounds, so that the total weight of the glass portion and its +mounting alone, standing some 12 feet in height, is over 11,500 pounds. +The installation completed for the equipment of the Manora Point +lighthouse, Karachi, is very similar. + +In some cases the demand for a powerful light has been met with a +system differing from the “hyperradiant.” The lenses and respective +groups of refractors are superimposed, each tier having its individual +burner and flues for carrying off the products of combustion. In this +way we have the biform, comprising two such panels arranged one above +the other, as in the Fastnet and Eddystone lights; and the quadriform, +wherein four tiers are built one above the other, as installed at the +Mew Island light in Ireland. The advantage of this arrangement is that +a beam of great intensity is secured with a lantern of comparatively +small diameter. + +The French authorities adopted a modification of this system. Instead +of placing two lenses and refractors one above the other, they ranged +them side by side, the effect being analogous to a couple of squinting +eyes, the panels being parallel and therefore throwing out parallel +beams. But these adaptations have not come into extensive use, as +they have been superseded by more simple means of achieving similar +requirements with an even more powerful ray. The hyperradiant stands +as the finest type of apparatus yet devised, and therefore is employed +when an extremely powerful light is required. + +While the design and arrangement of the optical apparatus is certainly +a most vital and delicate task, the mounting thereof upon a substantial +support in such a way that it may perform its work with the highest +efficiency is equally imperative, since the finest apparatus might be +very adversely affected by being improperly mounted. + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.--APPARATUS SHOWING A DOUBLE FLASH, FOLLOWED BY +A SINGLE FLASH. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +Obviously, owing to the great weight of the glass, the support must +be heavy and substantial. A massive cast-iron pedestal is employed +for this purpose. When the light is of the revolving character, means +have to be incorporated to secure the requisite rotation. In the early +days the turntable upon which the lens is mounted ran upon rollers, +but now a very much better system is universally employed. This has +been brought to a high standard of perfection by Messrs. Chance of +Birmingham, who have carried out unceasing experiments in this field. +The objection to rollers was the enormous friction that was set up, +and the great effort that was required, not only to set the lenses +revolving, but to keep them rotating at a steady pace. In the modern +apparatus the rollers are superseded by an iron trough filled with +mercury, upon which floats the turntable carrying the lenses. When +the apparatus is properly built and balanced, the friction is so +slight that the turntable can be set in motion by the little finger, +notwithstanding that several tons have to be moved. Although the +optical part of the apparatus floats upon the bed of quicksilver in +the same way as a cork lifebelt floats upon water, it is provided with +rollers which serve to hold the whole apparatus steady and to overcome +any oscillation. + +In the case of an immense apparatus such as a hyperradiant lens, +which, together with the turntable, may have a total weight of 17,000 +pounds, an enormous quantity of mercury is required. The trough of the +Cape Race hyperradiant light carries 950 pounds of quicksilver, upon +which the lantern is floated. In such an instance, also, the pedestal +is a weighty part of the apparatus, representing in this case about +26,800 pounds, so that the complete apparatus utilized to throw the +1,100,000 candle-power beam from the guardian of the Newfoundland coast +aggregates, when in working order, some 44,000 pounds, or approximately +20 tons. + +Within the base of the pedestal is mounted the mechanism for rotating +the optical apparatus. This is of the clockwork type driven by a +weight. The latter moves up and down a tube which extends vertically +to a certain depth through the centre of the tower. The weight of the +driving force and the depth of its fall naturally vary according to +the character of the light. In the Cape Race light the weight is of +900 pounds, and it falls 14½ feet per hour. Similarly, the length of +time which the clock will run on one winding fluctuates. As a rule it +requires to be rewound once every sixty or ninety minutes. A longer run +is not recommended, as it would demand a longer weight-tube, while many +authorities prefer the frequent winding, as the man on duty is kept +on the alert thereby. As the weight approaches the bottom of its tube +it sets an electric bell or gong in action, which serves to warn the +light-keeper that the mechanism demands rewinding. + +[Illustration: FIG. 13.--THE CLASSIFICATION OF LIGHTS, SHOWING +THE RESPECTIVE RADIUS OR FOCAL DISTANCE OF LENS FROM 150 TO 1,330 +MILLIMETRES. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +The weight and clockwork mechanism perfected by Messrs. Chance is +regarded as one of the best in service. The rotation is perfect and +even, owing to the governing system incorporated, while the steel wire +carrying the weight is preferable to the chain, which is subject to +wear and is noisy in action. In the Chance clockwork gear the weight +is just sufficient to start the apparatus from a state of rest, the +advantage of such a method being that, should the apparatus be stopped +in its revolution from any untoward incident, it is able to restart +itself. + +Of course, the clockwork mechanism is required only in those cases +where the lenticular apparatus has to be revolved. This introduces +the question of avoiding confusion between lights. When beacons were +first brought into service, the lights were of the fixed type, and the +navigator, although warned by the glare to keep away from the spot +so marked, was given no information as to his position. Accordingly, +lighthouse engineers sought to assist him in this direction during +the blackness of the night by providing a ready visual means of +identification. Owing to the ingenuity which has been displayed, it +has been rendered possible to ring the changes upon a light very +extensively. + +These may be subdivided broadly as follows: + + +--------------------+---------+-------------------------------------+ + | Type of Light. | Symbol. | Characteristics. | + +--------------------+---------+-------------------------------------+ + | Fixed | F. | A steady continuous light. | + | | | | + | Flashing | Fl. | A revolving light showing a single | + | | | flash at regular intervals, or a | + | | | fixed light with total eclipses. | + | | | | + | Fixed and flashing | F.Fl. | A fixed light varied at regular | + | | | intervals by a single flash of | + | | | greater brilliancy. | + | | | | + | Group flashing | Gp.Fl. | Various combinations of flashes | + | | | shown at regular intervals. | + | | | | + | Occulting | Occ. | A steady light suddenly and totally | + | | | eclipsed at regular intervals. | + | | | | + | Group occulting | Gp.Occ. | A steady light suddenly and totally | + | | | eclipsed by a group of two | + | | | or more eclipses. | + +--------------------+---------+-------------------------------------+ + +In the foregoing classifications only a white light is used. But it may +so happen that the lighthouse, owing to its position and the dangerous +character of the spot which it marks, carries a light which changes +colour from white to red or green, which are shown alternately in +various combinations. These characteristics are indicated as follows: + + +--------------------+------------+----------------------------------+ + | Type of Light. | Symbol. | Characteristics. | + +--------------------+------------+----------------------------------+ + | | | | + | Alternating | Alt. | White and colour alternating. | + | | | | + | Alternating | Alt.Fl. | Flashing alternations by | + | flashing | | revolving mechanism. | + | | | | + | Alternating fixed | Alt.F.Fl. | Fixed and flashing alternating. | + | and flashing | | | + | | | | + | Alternating group | Alt.Gp.Fl. | Group flashing alternating. | + | flashing | | | + | | | | + | Alternating | Alt.Occ. | Occulting alternately with | + | occulting | | white and coloured | + +--------------------+------------+----------------------------------+ + +In timing a revolving or flashing light, the cycle is taken from the +beginning of one flash to the beginning of the next. In these readings +the flash is always shorter than the duration of the eclipse, while +an occultation is shorter than, or equal to, the length of the light +interval. Since flashing and occulting may be carried out with a +fixed light suddenly extinguished or eclipsed, the characterization +is determined solely according to the relative duration of light +and darkness, irrespective of the type of apparatus employed or the +relative brilliancy. There is one peculiarity of the flashing light +which may be remarked. At short distances and in clear weather a faint +continuous light may be shown. + +Hand in hand with the development of the optical apparatus has been +the wonderful improvement in regard to the illuminants and the methods +of producing a brilliant clear flame. The fuel first used upon the +introduction of the oil lamp was sperm or colza oil, the former being +obtained from the whale, and the latter from seeds and a wild-cabbage. +Both were very expensive, so that the maintenance of a light was +costly--so much so that the United States authorities devoted their +efforts to the perfection of a high-class lard-oil. This proved highly +satisfactory, possessing only one drawback. In winter it congealed so +much under the low temperature that it had to be heated before it +could be placed in the lamp; but once the light was set going, the heat +radiated from the burner served to keep the oil sufficiently fluid to +enable it to mount the wick to the point of combustion under capillary +action. + +So far as the American authorities were concerned, the advantages of +lard-oil sufficed to bring a cheaper medium than colza-oil into vogue. +A company, which had been induced by the Government to install an +elaborate and expensive plant for the production of colza-oil, after +prolonged experiment and efforts to reduce the cost of production, +announced that it could not compete with the lard-oil, and suggested +that the latter should be employed in preference to the colza. The +Government agreed, but, to compensate the company for its trouble, +purchased the plant which the latter had laid down. + +The advances in the processes for refining petroleum, and the +exploitation of the extensive resources of the latter, led to +“earth-oil,” in some form or other, being employed for lighthouse +purposes. The attempt was facilitated by the invention and improvement +of the Argand burner, whereby a brilliant white annular sheet of flame +is produced. Various lighthouse engineers devoted their attention to +the improvement of this burner in conjunction with paraffin. Their +results were completely successful, and at last paraffin became +universally utilized as the cheapest and most efficient illuminant +known. + +The general method of feeding the lamps was to pump the oil from a low +level to the burner, thereby producing practically a pressure-feed +system in preference to the capillary action which is used in the +ordinary household lamp. By increasing the number of rings the +intensity of the flame was increased, until at last it was thought that +with this development perfection had been attained so far as lamps were +concerned. + +Then came another radical revolution. The invention of the incandescent +gas mantle by Dr. von Auer, and the complete change that it wrought +in connection with gas lighting, induced lighthouse engineers to +experiment in this field. As they could not use coal-gas, they devoted +their investigations to the perfection of a gas from petroleum, which +should be capable of combustion with the incandescent burner. Many +years were devoted to these experiments, and many petroleum vapour +systems were devised. One of the best known, most successful, and most +scientifically perfect, is the Chance incandescent light. This burner +is used in many of the most powerful lights of the world and has given +complete satisfaction. The mantle varies in size with the size and +type of the light, ranging from 35 to 85 millimetres in diameter, the +latter, in conjunction with a hyperradial apparatus, producing a light +exceeding 1,000,000 candle-power. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. Chance Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +THE HYPERRADIAL APPARATUS FOR THE MANORA POINT LIGHT, KARACHI, INDIA. + +Of 1,330 millimetres focus, this is the most powerful and largest +lighthouse apparatus made.] + +Not only was a far more powerful light obtained in this manner with +the assistance of the petroleum vapour burner and incandescent mantle, +but the cost of maintaining the light was reduced, owing to the great +economy in oil consumption that was effected thereby, the largest +mantle and burner--85 millimetres--burning only 2½ pints of oil per +hour. The light thus obtained, while being vastly superior to that +derived from a six-wick oil-burner, enables a saving of nearly £48, or +$240, per annum to be recorded, taking the cost of the petroleum at +1s., or 25 cents, per gallon delivered to the lighthouse. + +While petroleum is generally used, some countries have adopted other +oil fuels for small permanent lights. Thus, in Germany compressed +oil-gas, water-gas associated with benzine vapour, and Blau liquid gas, +are utilized. The last-named is coming very extensively into vogue, +also, in Holland, Denmark, and Austria. Blau gas has the advantage +that it can be transported in small steel tanks under extremely high +pressure--up to 100 atmospheres, or approximately 1,400 pounds per +square inch. It is an extract of oil-gas produced at a low pressure in +the gas retorts, and then compressed so severely that it liquefies. The +fuel, as it is drawn from the cylinder in which it is stored, has the +pressure reduced by means of a valve, so that it reaches the burner +in a gaseous form at a pressure equivalent to that of the coal-gas used +in private houses, and is burned in the same way with an incandescent +mantle. The advantage of this method lies in the facility with which +large volumes of gas may be transported, a steel cylinder containing +7,500 cubic feet weighing only 132 pounds. It is also inexpensive, a +bottle of the foregoing capacity costing only 12s. 6d., or $3. In some +cases the incandescent mantles, the average life of which is about a +fortnight, are of large diameter, running up to 100 millimetres, or +about 4 inches. + +Recently Mr. Gustaf Dalén, of the Gas Accumulator Company of Stockholm, +the inventor of the Dalén flasher and sun-valve, which are described +elsewhere, has introduced a new illuminant, which is coming into vogue, +especially on the Continent. This is called “Daléngas,” and is a +mixture of 9 per cent. dissolved acetylene and 91 per cent. atmospheric +air. Here the dissolved acetylene gas is conducted from a storage +reservoir or high-pressure gas cylinder, of special construction, to +a governor, where the pressure is reduced, and then to the mixing +apparatus, where the acetylene gas is associated with the air in the +above proportions. The idea of this combination and method is to enable +an acetylene gas mixture to be used with the ordinary incandescent +mantles. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. Chance Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +FIRST ORDER TRIPLE FLASHING LIGHT OF 920 MILLIMETRES FOCAL DISTANCE FOR +CHILANG LIGHTHOUSE, CHINA.] + +The advantage of the Daléngas, according to present experience, is +the increased candle-power that is obtainable as compared with other +systems, the superiority being about 75 per cent. under ordinary +conditions. With the largest Fresnel lenses a lighting power of 200,000 +Hefner candle-power is secured, while with revolving lenses of the +latest type a beam of 3,000,000 candle-power can be obtained. The flame +is small, and thus becomes concentrated more in the focus of the lens, +so that the divergence of the light may be diminished if desired. When +a light of a certain range is to be installed, the optical apparatus +can be made smaller for Daléngas than for other illuminants, and the +cost is reduced correspondingly. Similarly, if the system is introduced +into an existing light, the latter can be made appreciably more +powerful, without changing the optical apparatus or affecting the +divergence. + +In this system the gas is conducted into the lens apparatus from above, +and the lighting arrangement is quite independent of, and does not +interfere in any way with, the revolving apparatus, while the time +spent in changing the mantle is less than half a minute. + +All combustible gases, mixed with air in certain proportions, may +produce more or less violent detonations when fired. But the quantity +of mixed gas in this instance is confined in the length of piping +between the burner and the mixing apparatus, and this quantity is so +small that an explosion cannot be dangerous. In fact, all such danger +has been guarded against completely--is, indeed, impossible in any +circumstances. + +Electric light has been adopted in one or two cases; but while the +foremost authorities agree that it throws the best, most brilliant and +most powerful beam of light, the system is generally impracticable +on account of its great cost. When tests with this light were made +some years ago in comparison with the light thrown from oil burners, +it was claimed that the latter, owing to its reddish-yellow tinge, +was the most suitable from the all-round point of view, and that it +could penetrate to a greater distance in foggy weather. I have been +informed by several authorities, who have gone more deeply into this +question since, that this is a fallacy, and that the advantage rests +completely with electric light. Experience in Germany, which has two +magnificent electric lighthouses, and in Scotland, certainly supports +this contention, and I have been assured that the sole reason why +electric lighting has not been adopted more widely is the heavy cost, +both of installation and of maintenance. When electric lighting is +rendered cheaper and is brought more to the level of existing lighting +arrangements, one may expect another complete change in lighthouse +practice. In this direction, as explained in another chapter, the +Germans have carried out practical experiments in their characteristic +manner, and have brought the cost of maintaining a most powerful +electric light to the minimum. + +One very great advantage of the electric light is the ease with which +the power of the beam may be increased during thick weather, so as to +secure penetration to the greatest distance, and decreased to suit +easier conditions in clear weather. + +This point raises the question, “From how far can a light be seen out +at sea?” This factor is influenced by climatic conditions, and also by +the curvature of the earth. The higher the light, or the spectator, +or both, is elevated above the water, the greater the distance from +which the light can be seen. The table on p. 52, prepared by Mr. +Alan Stevenson, the eminent Scottish lighthouse engineer, gives the +distances at which objects can be seen at sea, according to the +respective elevations of the object and the eye of the observer. + +For instance, the passenger on a liner the boat-deck of which is 40 +feet above the water, approaching the English Channel, will sight +the Bishop Rock light from a distance of about 22 miles, because the +focal plane--that is, the bull’s-eye of the lens--is 163 feet above +the water, which, according to the following table, equals about 14½ +miles, to which must be added the height of the boat’s deck, 40 feet +representing 7·25 miles. Similarly, the ray of the Belle Ile light +will come into view when the vessel is 32½ miles distant--height of +focal plane of light, 470 feet = 25 miles, + eye of observer on board +the liner, 45 feet = 7·69 miles; while the Navesink light, being 246 +feet above the water, may be picked up by the captain of a liner from +a distance of 28 miles. The range of many lights, however, owing to +the curvature of the earth, is greatly in excess of their geographical +range, and with the most powerful lights the glare of the luminous +beams sweeping the clouds overhead may be seen for a full hour or more +before the ray itself comes into view. + +TABLE OF DISTANCES AT WHICH OBJECTS CAN BE SEEN AT SEA, ACCORDING +TO THEIR RESPECTIVE ELEVATIONS AND THE ELEVATION OF THE EYE OF THE +OBSERVER. + + +------------+--------------------+-----------------+ + | Heights in | Distances in | Distances in | + | Feet. | Statute or English | Geographical or | + | | Miles. | Nautical Miles. | + +------------+--------------------+-----------------+ + | 5 | 2·958 | 2·565 | + | 10 | 4·184 | 3·628 | + | 15 | 5·123 | 4·443 | + | 20 | 5·916 | 5·130 | + | 25 | 6·614 | 5·736 | + | 30 | 7·245 | 6·283 | + | 35 | 7·826 | 6·787 | + | 40 | 8·366 | 7·255 | + | 45 | 8·874 | 7·696 | + | 50 | 9·354 | 8·112 | + | 55 | 9·811 | 8·509 | + | 60 | 10·246 | 8·886 | + | 65 | 10·665 | 9·249 | + | 70 | 11·067 | 9·598 | + | 75 | 11·456 | 9·935 | + | 80 | 11·832 | 10·260 | + | 85 | 12·196 | 10·570 | + | 90 | 12·549 | 10·880 | + | 95 | 12·893 | 11·180 | + | 100 | 13·228 | 11·470 | + | 110 | 13·874 | 12·030 | + | 120 | 14·490 | 12·560 | + | 130 | 15·083 | 13·080 | + | 140 | 15·652 | 13·570 | + | 150 | 16·201 | 14·220 | + | 200 | 18·708 | 16·220 | + | 250 | 20·916 | 18·14 | + | 300 | 22·912 | 19·87 | + | 350 | 24·748 | 21·46 | + | 400 | 26·457 | 22·94 | + | 450 | 28·062 | 24·30 | + | 500 | 29·580 | 25·65 | + | 550 | 31·024 | 26·90 | + | 600 | 32·403 | 28·10 | + | 650 | 33·726 | 29·25 | + | 700 | 35·000 | 30·28 | + | 800 | 37·416 | 32·45 | + | 900 | 39·836 | 34·54 | + | 1,000 | 41·833 | 36·28 | + +------------+--------------------+-----------------+ + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the “Syren and Shipping.”_ + +LOOKING UP THE LANTERN OF THE NEEDLES LIGHTHOUSE.] + +So far as the candle-power of any light is concerned, the method of +determining this factor, varying according to the calculating methods +adopted, is somewhat misleading. So far as Great Britain is concerned, +the practice of setting out the candle-power of any light in the +official list has been abandoned, the authorities merely stating that +such and such a light is of great power. The United States and Canada, +on the other hand, indicate the approximate candle-power. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. Chance Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +FIXED APPARATUS OF THE FOURTH ORDER FOR SARAWAK. + +The focal distance is 250 millimetres, and the diameter of lantern +inside glazing 6 feet 7¾ inches.] + +By combining and arranging the integral parts of the optical apparatus, +the lighthouse engineer is able to accomplish many astonishing results. +Thus, while the various types generally follow accepted broad lines, +coinciding with the order which they represent, here and there some +very striking divergences are made. The Bell Rock light is perhaps +the most interesting example in this direction. It was designed by +Messrs. D. and T. Stevenson, and built by Messrs. Chance Brothers +and Co. The light is alternating, the colours being white and red. +Externally the optical apparatus appears to be bizarre, yet it is one +of the most perfect which has ever been installed. In its design and +construction almost all the known lighthouse optical elements are +incorporated, including the equiangular refractor, the reflecting +prism, the double-reflecting prism, and the dioptric mirror. Another +noteworthy fact is that, by an exceedingly ingenious arrangement, the +absorption of the rays by the glass used in producing the red flashes +is neutralized to such a vast degree that the white and red flashes are +of equal intensity. + +The subsidiary light is another striking feature which the lighthouse +engineer has introduced. For instance, a light may be shown from a +dangerous reef, and give the mariner all the warning desired. But +some distance away may lurk another isolated rock, which it is just +as imperative to indicate, and yet on which another tower cannot be +erected. This necessity is met by the subsidiary light. A portion +of the light from the main apparatus is deflected and thrown to the +desired spot by an ingenious arrangement of the prisms. On the west +coast of Scotland, at Stornoway, a stream of light used to be deflected +from the lantern in a vertical direction down the tower, and there +bent at right angles, to be thrown through a lower window and fall upon +a prism placed on the crest of a rock several hundred feet distant. +From the deck of a vessel, the effect of the light striking the prism +was akin to that produced by a beacon. Similarly in the case of St. +Catherine’s light in the Isle of Wight: a portion of the light, which +would otherwise be wasted over the area on the landward side, is +carried vertically down the tower by a disposal of lenses and prisms, +and is projected horizontally through a small window, after being +coloured into a red ray by passing through some glass of the desired +tint, to mark a danger spot some distance away. This method, however, +is not favoured now, as the peril can be more efficiently marked by +means of an independent beacon, a system which has become feasible +owing to the vast improvements that have been made in automatic lights +requiring no attention for several weeks or months at a time. + +But in those instances where the latter expedient is not adopted, the +practice is to cover the danger with a ray thrown from an entirely +different light. When the present Eddystone tower was completed, a +“low-light room,” as it is called, was incorporated, and a low-powered +light was thrown from two Argand burners and reflectors through a +window to mark a dangerous reef some three miles distant. But perhaps +the best example of a subsidiary light is that which was carried out +by Messrs. Chance in connection with the Cap de Couedie lighthouse. In +this instance two dangers had to be indicated in a subsidiary manner, +one being covered with a red, the other with a green, ray. The red +sector marks a danger spot known as Lipson’s Reef, lying 8¾ miles +distant, while the green light indicates Casuarina Island, 1¾ miles +away. This installation, it may be pointed out, has proved highly +successful, and certainly is very economical. + +[Illustration: FIG. 14.--THE MEANS WHEREBY THE RAYS ARE DEFLECTED FROM +THE MAIN LIGHT TO FORM A SUBSIDIARY LIGHT. + +(_By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. and Co., Ltd._)] + +There is another point which deserves mention--the duration of the +flash in a revolving light. There was considerable discussion and +difference of opinion upon this question some years ago. It was +maintained that the shorter the duration of the flash, and the more +rapidly it were thrown, the better it would be for the mariner. The +Scottish engineers realized the significance of this problem, and, +despite the hostile criticism of contemporary engineers, adopted a +specific principle which was to give a flash of two and three-quarter +seconds’ duration. Subsequently it was reduced to one second. The +introduction of the mercury float enabled the optical apparatus to be +revolved faster, and also facilitated the reduction in the number of +panels or faces, so that ultimately the Scottish engineers reduced the +flash to one of four-tenths of a second. + +When Mr. Bourdelles devised the mercury float which enabled rotation to +be accelerated, the French authorities rushed to the opposite extreme. +They reduced the faces to four, and arranged for the apparatus to +be revolved at a high speed, so that the duration of the flash was +only one-tenth of a second at rapidly-recurring intervals. This type +of light was called the _feu-éclair_, and was adopted as a result +of prolonged laboratory investigation. But this was an instance +where laboratory experiments and scientific reasoning failed to go +hand in glove with practical experience and navigation, where the +mariner has to contend with all sorts and conditions of weather. The +seafarer expressed his opinion of the one-tenth of a second flash +in uncomplimentary terms, displaying an indifferent appreciation of +artificially-produced sheet-lightning. + +Eventually there was a general agreement, among all those countries +which had investigated the problem closely, that a flash of about +three-tenths of a second was the most satisfactory, and this has +since become tacitly standardized. The French authorities recognized +the fallacy of their idea, and soon came into line with the other +countries. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FOG-SIGNALS + + +Notwithstanding the wonderful ingenuity that is displayed in the +concentration of light into powerful beams, these all count for nothing +when fog settles upon the sea. The ray of 1,000,000 candle-power is +almost as futile then as the glimmer from a tallow dip. + +Fog is the peril of the sea which the mariner dreads more than any +other. The blanket of mist, descending upon the water, not only shuts +everything from sight, but deadens every sound as well. The sea is +absolutely calm, so that no intimation of danger ahead is conveyed by +the breaking of the waves upon rock, shoal, sandbank, or iron-bound +coast. + +It is in times of fog that the navigator must be given the greatest +protection. As this is impossible to accomplish visually, appeal must +be made to his ear. In the early days of lighthouse engineering the +methods of conveying audible warning were very crude. The discharge +of a gun was the most popular, but it was neither serviceable nor +reliable, and was made upon somewhat haphazard lines. Thus, in the +case of a dangerous headland on the North American coast, which the +Boston steamer had to round on its journey, the keepers mounted guard +at the probable time of the vessel’s arrival off this point. They +listened eagerly for the steamer’s whistle, and when it came screaming +over the water they began hurriedly firing a carronade, keeping up +the blank-cartridge bombardment until another shriek told them that +those on the vessel had heard their signals. Sometimes the whistle +was heard from a distance of six miles; at others from not more than +two miles away. It depended upon circumstances. Obviously, such a +primitive system was attended with considerable danger, as an accident +was liable to happen to the men in their feverish haste to load and +discharge the gun, while the plight of the boat was far from being +enviable at times. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Chance Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +A MODERN LIGHTHOUSE SIREN PLANT. + +Showing gas engines and air-compressors in duplicate, with siren at +side.] + +In the early days every lighthouse tower was provided with a heavy +bell. Indeed, the ponderous dome of metal projecting from the lantern +gallery was considered indispensable. The bell varied in weight from +1,200 to 2,240 pounds, was fitted with a massive clapper, and when +struck emitted a deep musical note. In order to enable the seafarer +to gain some idea of his whereabouts, the fog-signals were given a +sound-characteristic somewhat upon the lines of those in connection +with the light. Thus, one lighthouse would give one stroke every ten +seconds; another would give two strokes in quick succession, followed +by a long silence, and so on. This system suffers from the severe +handicap that the sound does not travel very far during foggy weather. + +Another ingenious engineer recommended the utilization of the +locomotive whistle, giving a high-toned, ear-piercing shriek, but +the same objection as attended the use of the bell prevailed: the +sound could not be heard more than a short distance away. The British +lighthouse authorities submitted the idea to a series of searching +investigations to ascertain its possibilities, but eventually were +compelled to conclude that it was not superior to, if as good as, the +other systems then in vogue. The United States authorities, as a result +of their independent experiments, expressed a similar opinion; but in +Canada practical application gave this whistle a favourable verdict. + +Rockets also have been adopted, and are highly successful. Indeed, this +method of conveying audible warning prevails still in many countries. +The practicability of such a means of throwing sound over a wide area +was advanced by Sir Richard Collinson, when Deputy-Master of Trinity +House, and his idea comprised the insertion of a gun-cotton charge, +timed to explode at a given height, in the head of the rocket. The +height could be varied up to about 1,000 feet, and the weight of +the charge fluctuated according to requirements. The rocket system +was tested very severely, and in some instances the report was heard +as many as twenty-five miles away. It received the approbation of +Professor Tyndall, and, although superior methods of signalling have +been devised since, there remain one or two lighthouse stations where +it is considered to be the most satisfactory fog-signalling device, +notably the station on the island of Heligoland, where the rocket is +hurled into the air to explode at a height of nearly 700 feet. + +In many lighthouses the detonation of gun-cotton constitutes the means +of conveying warning to passing vessels, but is accomplished in a +different manner. The charge, instead of being sent into the air to +be exploded, is attached to a special device which is supported upon +a simple frame at a point above the lantern, so that no damage may +be inflicted upon the glass of the latter from the concussion. The +apparatus is fitted with a safety device which prevents premature +explosion, so that the keeper is preserved from personal injury, and, +unless culpable negligence is manifested, the charge cannot be ignited +until it has been raised to its designed position. The report is of +great volume, and as a rule can be heard a considerable distance; but +in this, as in all other cases, the atmosphere plays many strange +tricks. Still, it has not been superseded yet for isolated sea-rock +lighthouses, such as the Eddystone, Skerryvore, and Bell Rock, where +there is lack of adequate space for the installation of any other +equally efficient fog-signalling facilities. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE SIRENS OF THE LIZARD. + +Owing to the importance of the Lizard Station and the fact that the +coast often is obscured by fog, a powerful fog-signalling station is +imperative.] + +In the early seventies an American investigator, Mr. C. L. Daboll, +contrived an entirely new system, which developed into the foundation +of one of the most successful fog-signalling devices for lighthouses +which has been discovered--the siren. The Daboll invention was a huge +trumpet, recalling a mammoth phonograph horn. It was 17 feet in length, +and its mouth was 38 inches in diameter. In the lower end of this +trumpet--the throat--was placed a tongue of steel measuring 10 inches +in length and secured at one end to form a reed. It was blown by air +compressed in a reservoir to the desired degree, and then permitted to +escape through the trumpet. The mad rush of the expanding air through +the constricted passage set the reed vibrating violently, causing the +emission of a penetrating, discordant bellow. When Daboll commenced his +experiments, he suffered from the lack of a suitable mechanical means +for compressing the air, and made shift with a donkey for this purpose +until the hot-air engine was improved, when the latter was substituted. + +Trinity House adopted the idea and found it serviceable; but the +Canadian authorities, after four years’ experiment, dissented from this +view, remarking that the trumpet was expensive to maintain, unreliable +in working, and liable to break down when most urgently needed. In +fact, they characterized the Daboll trumpets which they had installed +as “sources of danger instead of aids to navigation.” + +From the trumpet to the siren was not a very big step. The history +of the latter’s invention is somewhat obscure, but it was brought +before the United States Government in a primitive form. The American +engineers, recognizing its latent possibilities, took it up, and +endeavoured to improve it to such a degree as to render it suitable +for lighthouse work. Their efforts were only partially successful. +The solution of the many difficulties attending its perfection +was effected in Great Britain by Professor Frederick Hale Holmes, +whose magneto-electric machine brought electricity within reach +of the lighthouse as an illuminant, and it was due to the efforts +of this scientist that the siren became one of the most efficient +sound-producing instruments which have been discovered for this class +of work. + +The reason that made Professor Holmes bring his energies and knowledge +to bear upon this subject was somewhat curious. The siren in its +first form made its way from the United States to Great Britain. The +British Admiralty realized the power and penetration of its sound, +and forthwith adopted it in the navy, operating it by steam instead +of by air. At this there arose a great outcry from the mercantile +marine. Captains argued that the similarity of the signals confused +and often misled them, as they could not tell in the fog whether the +sound proceeded from a warship or a lighthouse. The Board of Trade was +forced to intervene, but, as it had no jurisdiction over the Admiralty, +it sought to extricate itself from an awkward situation by inviting +Professor Holmes to perfect a siren which would emit a distinctive +sound. His efforts were crowned with complete success. + +[Illustration: FIG. 15.--THE FIXED (A) AND REVOLVING (B) PARTS OF THE +SIREN.] + +Professor Holmes exhibited his wonderful device at the Paris Exhibition +of 1867. He installed it in working order, and the visitors displayed +an anxiety to hear it. It was brought into action, and those around +never forgot the experience. It was the most diabolical ear-splitting +noise which had been heard, and, apprehensive that serious results +might arise from its demonstration when the buildings were thronged +with sight-seers, the authorities refused to permit it to be sounded +again. The humorous illustrated papers did not suffer such a golden +opportunity to escape. Grotesque and laughable cartoons appeared +depicting the curious effects produced by the blast of the instrument, +one showing the various statues being frightened off their pedestals +proving exceptionally popular. + +The siren in its simplest form is an enlarged edition of the “Deviline” +toy whistle. There is a Daboll trumpet with a small throat, in which +is placed horizontally, not a reed, but a metal disc, so as to fill +the whole circular space of the throat. The sheet of metal is pierced +with a number of radial slits. Behind this disc is a second plate of +a similar character, and likewise pierced with radial slits of the +same size, shape and number; but whereas the first disc is fixed, the +second is mounted on a spindle. The free disc rotates at high speed, +so that the twelve jets of air which are driven through the throat are +interrupted intermittently by the blanks of the revolving disc coming +over the openings in the fixed disc, while when the two slits are in +line the air has a free passage. If the revolving disc completes 3,000 +revolutions per minute, and there are twelve slits in the discs, then a +total of 36,000 vibrations per minute is produced while the instrument +is in operation. The speed of the revolving disc, as well as the number +and size of the openings, varies according to the size and class of the +siren; but in any case an intensely powerful, dense and penetrating +musical tone is emitted, which can be heard a considerable distance +away. The blast of a high-powered large siren has been heard at a +distance of twenty to thirty miles in clear weather, though of course +in thick weather its range is reduced. + +While Professor Holmes was experimenting with this device, another +investigator, Mr. Slight, of Trinity House, was wrestling with the same +problem. Indeed, he may be described as the inventor of the modern +siren. Although he effected only an apparently slight modification, +it was the touch which rendered the instrument perfect, while it also +removed the possibility of a breakdown at a critical moment, as he +rendered the moving part freer in its working and eliminated the severe +strains to which it was subjected. The improvement was appreciated by +Professor Holmes, who adopted it immediately. + +While these indefatigable efforts were in progress, ingenious attempts +were made to press Nature herself into operation. As is well known, +there are many “blowing-holes” distributed throughout the world, where +the water by erosion has produced a long, narrow cavern in the base +of a rock, with a constricted outlet into the outer air. The waves, +rushing into the cave, compress the air within, which, in its escape at +high velocity through the small vent, produces a bellowing sound. It +was this curious phenomenon which gave the Wolf Rock its name. General +Hartmann Bache, of the United States Engineers, attempted in 1858 to +make use of a blowing-hole on one of the Farallon Isles, lying forty +miles off the entrance to San Francisco Bay. A chimney was built with +bricks above the orifice, through which the air compressed by the waves +below made its escape, and on top of this shaft a locomotive whistle +was placed. The first effort was a dead failure, because the force of +the rush of air was so great that it carried away the chimney; but in +the second attempt success was achieved, and an excellent automatic +whistle blared out night and day almost continuously and was audible +for some distance out to sea. The only drawback was that in foggy +weather, when the most intense sound was required, the signal was dumb +owing to the smoothness of the water. This novel signal was maintained +for some time and then was superseded by a powerful siren. + +One of the most interesting fog-signalling installations in service is +that on the bald formidable hump of rock lying in the estuary of the +Clyde, known as Ailsa Craig. For years this rock constituted a terrible +menace to the crowded shipping of this important marine thoroughfare, +and its victims were numerous. While the Commissioners of Northern +Lighthouses mitigated its terrors as far as possible by the provision +of a powerful light, they recognized the fact that a visual warning +did not meet the situation completely. But the installation of a +fog-signal was a somewhat peculiar problem, owing to the configuration +of the rock. A single station would not meet requirements, because it +was necessary to throw the warning from both sides of the obstruction. +The provision of two sound-stations would have been an expensive +matter, even if it had been feasible, which it was not, owing to the +precipitous nature of the cliffs. + +An ingenious solution was advanced by Mr. Charles Ingrey, C.E. He +proposed to erect a central power-station and to control the sounding +of two sirens, placed on opposite sides of the island, therefrom, +the compressed air being led through underground piping. The plans +were submitted to Messrs. Stevenson, the engineers to the Northern +Lighthouse Board, who, after examining the proposal thoroughly, gave +it their approval. But when it came to obtaining the sanction for +the requisite expenditure from the Board of Trade, that august body, +despite the fact that the project had been investigated and had +received the approbation of the engineers to the Northern Lighthouse +Commissioners, declined to permit public money to be expended upon +an untried scheme. Such is the way in which pioneering effort and +ingenuity are stifled by Government departments. + +[Illustration: THE ACETYLENE FOG-GUN. + +The latest ingenious device for giving both audible and visual warning +automatically.] + +Many another engineer would have abandoned the project after such +a rebuff, but Mr. Ingrey without any delay laid down a complete +installation upon the lines he contemplated on the island of Pladda, +where a Holmes fog-horn was in service. With the aid of a workman +whom he took from Glasgow, the light-keepers and some farm labourers, +this trial installation was completed, the piping being carried round +the island from the air-compressing plant to the fog-signal. The +work occupied about a fortnight, and then, everything being ready to +convince the sceptical Board of Trade, the inspecting engineers were +treated to a comprehensive and conclusive demonstration. They were +satisfied with what they saw, appreciated the reliability of the idea +and gave the requisite sanction. Forthwith the Ailsa Craig Island +installation was put in hand and duly completed. + +This plant possesses many ingenious features. As the light is derived +from gas distilled from crude oil, a small gas-making plant is +installed on the island, and this is used also for driving a battery +of five eight-horse-power gas-engines--four are used at a time, the +fifth being in reserve--to supply the thirty-horse-power demanded to +operate the fog-signal. The energy thus developed drives two sets of +powerful air-compressors, the four cylinders of which have a bore +of 10 inches by a stroke of 20 inches, the air being compressed to 80 +pounds per square inch and stored in two large air-receivers which hold +194 cubic feet. From this reservoir pipes buried in a trench excavated +from the solid rock extend to the two trumpets, placed on the north +and south sides of the island respectively. The length of piping on +the north side is 3,400 feet, and on the south side 2,500 feet. At +places where the pipe makes a dip, owing to the configuration of the +rock, facilities are provided to draw off any water which may collect. +Extreme care had to be displayed in connecting the lengths of piping, +so that there might be no leakage, in which event, of course, the +pressure of the air would drop and thereby incapacitate the signal. + +[Illustration: THE RATTRAY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE. + +A very exposed Scottish rock tower. It is unique because a full-powered +siren fog-signal is installed therein.] + +Each signal is mounted in a domed house built of concrete, the mouth +of the trumpet extending from the crown of the roof. Within the house +is an air-receiver 9 feet in height by 4½ feet in diameter, of about +140 cubic feet capacity, which receives the compressed air transmitted +through the piping from the compressing-station. It also contains +the automatic apparatus whereby the signal is brought into action +at the stipulated intervals, so as to produce the requisite sound +characteristic. This is a self-winding clockwork mechanism which admits +and cuts off the supply of air to the trumpets, its chief feature +being that the clock is wound up by the compressed air itself, so that +it is entirely free from human control. However, as a breakdown even +with the best-designed and most-carefully-tended machinery cannot be +circumvented entirely, there is a duplicate electrical mechanism, +also automatically controlled from the power-generating station, the +electric cables for which are laid in the pipe trenches. This acts as +an emergency control. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson._ + +SULE SKERRY LIGHT. + +A lonely light of Scotland. The nearest land is the Butt of Lewis, 30 +miles distant.] + +The two signals are not sounded simultaneously; neither are they +alike nor of the same tone. The north signal gives a single blast of +high tone, lasting five seconds, and then is silent for 175 seconds. +On the south side the siren gives a double note, although there are +three blasts--viz., high, low, high--corresponding to the letter R of +the Morse code. The notes are sounded for two seconds, with similar +intervening periods of silence, and silence for 170 seconds between +the groups. The complete signal from the two stations is given once +in three minutes, the north signal commencing to sound ninety seconds +after the south signal has ceased. The high note corresponds to the +fourth E in the musical compass, there being 38,400 vibrations per +minute; while the low note is tuned to the third D in the musical +compass, with 16,800 vibrations per minute. The notes are purposely +timed more than an octave apart and made discordant, as thereby +the sound is more likely to attract attention and to be readily +distinguished. + +About eighteen minutes are required to bring the apparatus into +operation--that is, to start compressing and to raise the pressure of +the air to the requisite degree--but, as fogs descend upon the Clyde +with startling suddenness, the signals may be started within five +minutes of the fog-alarm. The air-reservoirs are kept charged to the +working pressure, the machinery being run once or twice for a short +time every week for this purpose and to keep the plant in working order. + +Up to this time it had been the practice to place the siren in close +proximity to the air-compressing machinery, but the installation at +Ailsa Craig proves conclusively that this is not essential to success; +also it demonstrates the fact that a number of signals can be operated +reliably and effectively from a central station. Indeed, this Scottish +plant aroused such widespread interest that the Pulsometer Engineering +Company of Reading, who had acquired Professor Holmes’s patents and who +carried out the above installation, received several inquiries from +abroad with regard to its suitability for similar situations. In one +instance the compressed air was to be transmitted for a distance of +nearly four miles. + +While the siren has been adopted and found adequate by the majority +of nations, the Canadian Government has installed a far more powerful +instrument upon the River St. Lawrence, as the ordinary siren signals +originally established near the mouth of the river, although of +great power, were found to be inadequate. The new apparatus, which +is known as the “diaphone,” gives an extraordinarily powerful sound. +It comprises a cylindrical chamber, in the walls of which are cut a +number of parallel slits. Concentrically disposed within the chamber +is a cylindrical hollow piston, with similar slits and a flange at one +end, the whole being enclosed in an outer casing. Air under pressure +is admitted into the outer casing, and drives the piston backwards and +forwards with great rapidity. The result is that the air effects its +escape through the orifices, when they come into line, in intermittent +puffs. + +While the broad principle is not unlike that of the conventional +siren, the main difference is that in the latter there is a rotary +motion, whereas in the diaphone the action is reciprocating. The great +advantage of the latter is that all the vibrations are synchronous, +owing to the symmetrical disposition of the slits, and consequently +the note produced is very pure. The mechanism is so devised that the +piston’s motion is controlled to a nicety, and the sound is constant. +Experience has proved that the best results are obtained by using air +at a pressure of 30 pounds per square inch. The sound thus produced +is intensified to a markedly greater degree by means of a resonator +properly attuned. + +This instrument has displaced the siren among the stations upon the St. +Lawrence River. The general type of apparatus has a piston 4½ inches +in diameter, and uses 11 pounds of air per second during the sounding +of the blast. But at more important stations a far larger and more +powerful class of apparatus is used, the diaphone at Cape Race having a +piston 8½ inches in diameter and using 27 feet of air per second while +sounding. This does not indicate the limit of size, however, since the +builders of this terrible noise-producer are experimenting with an +apparatus having a piston 14 inches in diameter. The sound issuing from +such a huge apparatus would be almost as deafening as the report of a +big gun and should succeed in warning a mariner several miles away. + +The atmosphere, however, plays many strange pranks with the most +powerful sound-producing instruments. To-day, for instance, a +fog-signal may be heard at a distance of ten miles; to-morrow it will +fail to be audible more than a mile away. This aberration of sound is +extraordinary and constitutes one of the unsolved problems of science. +Innumerable investigations have been made with the object of finding +the cause of this erratic action, but no conclusive explanation has +been forthcoming. Another strange trick is that, while a sound may be +audible at distances of two and four miles during a fog, it fails to +strike the ear at three miles. It is as if the sound struck the water +at a range of two miles, bounded high into the air, and again fell upon +the water at four miles, giving a second leap to hit the water again +farther on, in much the same way as a thin flat stone, when thrown +horizontally into the water, will hop, skip, and jump over the surface. +This trick renders the task of the lighthouse engineer additionally +exasperating and taxes his ingenuity to the utmost, as it appears to +baffle completely any attempt towards its elimination. + +Recently another ingenious and novel system has been perfected by +Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson. This is an acetylene gun which acts +automatically. Hitherto an unattended fog-signal--except the bell-buoy +tolled by the movement of the waves, which is far from satisfactory, +or the whistling buoy, which is operated upon the same lines and is +equally ineffective except at very short range--has found little +favour. The objections to the bell and whistle buoys are the faintness +of the sounds, which may be drowned by the noises produced on the ship +herself; while, if the wind is blowing away from the vessel, she may +pass within a few feet of the signal, yet outside its range. Thus it +will be recognized that the fog-gun serves to fill a very important gap +in connection with the warning of seafarers during thick weather. + +As is well known, even a small charge of acetylene, when fired, will +produce a loud report, and this characteristic of the gas induced +Messrs. Stevenson to apply it to a fog-signal. They have developed +the automatic acetylene system of lighting to a very high degree +around the coasts of Scotland, and there are now more than twenty +lights of this class, mostly unattended, in operation, some of which +have been established for many years. These lights have proved highly +satisfactory. There has never been an accident, a freedom which is due +to the fact that Moye’s system is used, wherein the possibilities of +mishap are surmounted very effectively. Accordingly, the engineers saw +no reason why a similar system should not be adapted to the emission of +sound instead of light signals, or, if desired, of both simultaneously. +Their experiments have been crowned with complete success, and, as the +gun uses no more gas than would be consumed if a flashing light system +were used, the cost of operation is very low. + +The general features of the acetylene fog-gun may be observed from the +illustration (facing p. 64). The acetylene, dissolved in acetone, is +contained under pressure in a cylinder, and thence passes through a +reducing valve to an annular space, where it is ignited by an electric +spark. A trumpet is attached to the firing chamber, so that the sound +becomes intensified. If desired, the explosion can be effected at the +burner, so that, in addition to a sound-signal, a flashing light is +given. + +The applications vary according to the circumstances. Suppose there is +an unlighted bell-buoy at the bar of a port. Here the procedure is to +install a gun and light combined, so that the flash of the explosion +may give visual and the report audible warning. Or, should there be a +lighted buoy already in position, its effectiveness may be enhanced +by adding the gun, the detonation alone being employed for warning +purposes. The size of the cylinder containing the dissolved acetylene +may be varied, so that renewal need only be carried out once in one, +two, or more months, according to conditions. If the increasing traffic +around a certain rock demand that the latter should be marked, a +combined sound and light apparatus can be installed. It may be that the +head of a pier which is accessible only at certain times, or a beacon +which can be reached only at rare intervals, may require improved +facilities. In this case the gun can be set up and a cable laid to a +convenient spot which may be approached at all times by an attendant. +Then the latter, by the movement of a switch, can bring the gun +instantly into action upon the alarm of fog, and it will keep firing at +the set intervals until, the fog lifting, the gun is switched off. + +In some cases, where the apparatus is set upon a lonely rock, +a submarine cable may be laid between the marked point and the +control-station. The cable is not a very costly addition. There are +many lights where wages have to be paid merely for a man to bring the +fog-signalling bell machinery into action. In such cases a fog-gun can +be installed and the annual cost of maintenance decreased enormously, +thereby enabling the outlay on the gun to be recouped within a very +short time; while the light may be improved by using the flashes, so +that the warning can be rendered more distinctive. + +The invention is also applicable to lightships, many of which are +manned by four men or more at a large cost per annum. In the majority +of cases an unattended Stevenson lightship--such as described in +another chapter, six of which are in use around the coasts of Scotland, +and which give, not only a first-class light, but, by the aid of +the fog-signal gun, can be made to give an excellent fog-signal as +well--offers a means of reducing the heavy maintenance charges arising +in connection with a manned light-vessel. In many instances existing +lightships can be converted to the automatic system and completed by +the gun. Each case must, of course, be decided upon its merits as +regards the time the gun and light are required to work upon a single +charge of acetylene, but there are no insuperable obstacles to its +utilization. + +Of course, in an isolated station lying perhaps some miles off the +mainland, it may be necessary to keep the gun going night and day in +fog and in clear weather alike. In this case, naturally, the great +number of explosions involves considerable expense; but the inventors +are carrying out experiments with a view to switching the gun on and +off, as required, from a distant point by means of wireless telegraphy, +so as to effect a saving in the expenditure of acetylene when there is +no need on account of fine weather to keep the gun going. Still, it +must not be supposed that the detonations even during clear weather +are altogether abortive, inasmuch as a sound-signal at sea, where +the atmosphere has a long-distance-carrying capacity as a rule, in +conjunction with a light, draws double attention to a danger spot. +Under such circumstances the waste of acetylene gas during periods of +clear weather is more apparent than real. + +The contest against the elements is still being waged, and slowly but +surely engineering science is improving its position, and is hopeful of +rendering audible signals as completely effective as those of a visual +character. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE + + +It is doubtful whether the name of any lighthouse is so familiar +throughout the English-speaking world as the “Eddystone.” Certainly +no other “pillar of fire by night, of cloud by day,” can offer so +romantic a story of dogged engineering perseverance, of heartrending +disappointments, disaster, blasted hopes, and brilliant success. + +Standing out in the English Channel, about sixty miles east of the +Lizard, is a straggling ridge of rocks which stretches for hundreds of +yards across the marine thoroughfare, and also obstructs the western +approach to Plymouth Harbour. But at a point some nine and a half miles +south of Rame Head, on the mainland, the reef rises somewhat abruptly +to the surface, so that at low-water two or three ugly granite knots +are bared, which tell only too poignantly the complete destruction +they could wreak upon a vessel which had the temerity or the ill luck +to scrape over them at high-tide. Even in the calmest weather the +sea curls and eddies viciously around these stones; hence the name +“Eddystones” is derived. + +From the days when trading vessels first used the English Channel the +reef has been a spot of evil fame. How many ships escaped the perils +and dangers of the seven seas only to come to grief on this ridge +within sight of home, or how many lives have been lost upon it, will +never be known. Only the more staggering holocausts, such as the wreck +of the _Winchelsea_, stand out prominently in the annals of history, +but these serve to emphasize the terrible character of the menace +offered. The port of Plymouth, as may be supposed, suffered with +especial severity. + +As British overseas traffic expanded, the idea of indicating the +spot for the benefit of vessels was discussed. The first practical +suggestion was put forward about the year 1664, but thirty-two years +elapsed before any attempt was made to reduce theory to practice. +Then an eccentric English country gentleman, Henry Winstanley, who +dabbled in mechanical engineering upon unorthodox lines, came forward +and offered to build a lighthouse upon the terrible rock. Those who +knew this ambitious amateur were dubious of his success, and wondered +what manifestation his eccentricity would assume on this occasion. Nor +was their scepticism entirely misplaced. Winstanley raised the most +fantastic lighthouse which has ever been known, and which would have +been more at home in a Chinese cemetery than in the English Channel. +It was wrought in wood and most lavishly embellished with carvings and +gilding. + +Four years were occupied in its construction, and the tower was +anchored to the rock by means of long, heavy irons. The light, merely +a flicker, flashed out from this tower in 1699 and for the first time +the proximity of the Eddystones was indicated all round the horizon +by night. Winstanley’s critics were rather free in expressing their +opinion that the tower would come down with the first sou’-wester, but +the eccentric builder was so intensely proud of his achievement as to +venture the statement that it would resist the fiercest gale that ever +blew, and, when such did occur, he hoped that he might be in the tower +at the time. + +Fate gratified his wish, for while he was on the rock in the year 1703 +one of the most terrible tempests that ever have assailed the coasts +of Britain gripped the structure, tore it up by the roots, and hurled +it into the Channel, where it was battered to pieces, its designer +and five keepers going down with the wreck. When the inhabitants of +Plymouth, having vainly scanned the horizon for a sign of the tower on +the following morning, put off to the rock to investigate, they found +only the bent and twisted iron rods by which the tower had been held in +position projecting mournfully into the air from the rock-face. + +Shortly after the demolition of the tower, the reef, as if enraged at +having been denied a number of victims owing to the existence of the +warning light, trapped the _Winchelsea_ as she was swinging up Channel, +and smashed her to atoms, with enormous loss of life. + +Although the first attempt to conquer the Eddystone had terminated so +disastrously, it was not long before another effort was made to mark +the reef. The builder this time was a Cornish labourer’s son, John +Rudyerd, who had established himself in business on Ludgate Hill as a +silk-mercer. In his youth he had studied civil engineering, but his +friends had small opinion of his abilities in this craft. However, +he attacked the problem boldly, and, although his tower was a plain, +business-looking structure, it would have been impossible to conceive +a design capable of meeting the peculiar requirements of the situation +more efficiently. It was a cone, wrought in timber, built upon a stone +and wood foundation anchored to the rock, and of great weight and +strength. The top of the cone was cut off to permit the lantern to be +set in position. The result was that externally the tower resembled +the trunk of an oak-tree, and appeared to be just about as strong. It +offered the minimum of resistance to the waves, which, tumbling upon +the ledge, rose and curled around the tapering form without starting a +timber. + +Rudyerd, indeed, may be considered to be the father of the science of +modern lighthouse designing, because the lines that he evolved have +never been superseded for exposed positions even in these days of +advanced engineering science, greater constructional facilities, and +improved materials. Rudyerd’s ingenuity and skill received a triumphant +vindication when the American engineers set out to build the Minot’s +Ledge and Spectacle Reef lighthouses, inasmuch as these men followed +slavishly in the lines he laid down, and their achievements are +numbered among the great lighthouses of the world to-day. + +Rudyerd built his tower with infinite care, although he was harassed in +his operations by the depredations of French privateers, who haunted +this part of the British coast. On one occasion the whole of the men +were surprised while at their work, and were borne off in triumph as +prisoners of war to France. Louis XIV., however, heard of the capture, +and the privateers, instead of being honoured for the catch, as they +anticipated, were strongly reprimanded and compelled to release their +captures. “Their work is for the benefit of all nations. I am at war +with England, not with humanity,” was the Sovereign’s comment; and +by way of compensation the prisoners were loaded with presents and +reconveyed to the rock, to resume their toil. + +For forty years Rudyerd’s structure defied the elements, and probably +would have been standing to this day had it not possessed one weak +point. It was built of wood instead of stone. Consequently, when a fire +broke out in the lantern on December 4, 1755, the flames, fanned by the +breeze, rapidly made their way downwards. The keepers were impotent and +sought what refuge they could find under projecting crags below, as +the lead which had been employed in construction melted into drops and +rained down on all sides, so that the unfortunate men were exposed to +another and more alarming danger. In fact, one man, while watching the +progress of the fire, was drenched with a shower of molten metal, some +of which, he declared, had entered his open mouth and had penetrated +into his stomach. When rescued he was writhing in fearful agony, but +his story was received with incredulity, his comrades believing that +the experience had turned his brain and that this was merely one of his +delusions. When the man died, a post-mortem examination was made, and +the doctors discovered ample corroboration of the man’s story in the +form of a lump of lead weighing some seven ounces! + +No time was lost in erecting another tower on the rock, for now +it was more imperative than ever that the reef should be lighted +adequately. The third engineer was John Smeaton, who first landed on +the rock to make the surveys on April 5, 1756. He was able to stay +there for only two and a quarter hours before the rising tide drove +him off, but in that brief period he had completed the work necessary +to the preparation of his design. Wood had succumbed to the attacks +of tempest and of fire in turn. He would use a material which would +defy both--Portland stone. He also introduced a slight change in the +design for such structures, and one which has been universally copied, +producing the graceful form of lighthouse with which everyone is so +familiar. Instead of causing the sides to slope upwards in the straight +lines of a cone, such as Rudyerd adopted, Smeaton preferred a slightly +concave curve, so that the tower was given a waist at about half its +height. He also selected the oak-tree as his guide, but one having an +extensive spread of branches, wherein will be found a shape in the +trunk, so far as the broad lines are concerned, which coincides with +the form of Smeaton’s lighthouse. He chose a foundation where the rock +shelved gradually to its highest point, and dropped vertically into the +water upon the opposite side. The face of the rock was roughly trimmed +to permit the foundation-stones of the tower to be laid. The base of +the building was perfectly solid to the entrance level, and each stone +was dovetailed securely into its neighbour. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE EDDYSTONE, THE MOST FAMOUS LIGHTHOUSE OF ENGLAND. + +To the right is the stump of Smeaton’s historic tower.] + +From the entrance, which was about 15 feet above high-water, a central +well, some 5 feet in diameter, containing a staircase, led to the +storeroom, nearly 30 feet above high-water. Above this was a second +storeroom, a living-room as the third floor, and the bedroom beneath +the lantern. The light was placed about 72 feet above high-water, +and comprised a candelabra having two rings, one smaller than, and +placed within, the other, but raised about a foot above its level, the +two being held firmly in position by means of chains suspended from +the roof and secured to the floor. The rings were adapted to receive +twenty-four lights, each candle weighing about 2¾ ounces. Even candle +manufacture was in its infancy in those days, and periodically the +keepers had to enter the lantern to snuff the wicks. In order to keep +the watchers of the lights on the alert, Smeaton installed a clock of +the grandfather pattern in the tower, and fitted it with a gong, +which struck every half-hour to apprise the men of these duties. This +clock is now one of the most interesting relics in the museum at +Trinity House. + +The first stone of the tower was laid on a Sunday in June, 1757, as +the date on the block indicates; and although work had to be pursued +fitfully and for only a few hours at a time between the tides, in the +early stages, Smeaton seized every opportunity offered by the wind +and sea to push the task forward. For four years the men slaved upon +the rock, and, although the mechanical handling appliances of those +days were primitive, the tower was completed without a single mishap. +The solidity of the structure, and its lines, which, as the engineer +stated, would offer the minimum of resistance to the Atlantic rollers, +but at the same time would insure the utmost stability, aroused +widespread admiration, for it was felt that the engineer had triumphed +over Nature at last. Many people expressed a desire to see how the +tower would weather such a storm as carried away Winstanley’s freakish +building, especially as, in a roaring sou’-wester, the waves hurled +themselves upon the ledge to wreathe and curl upwards to a point far +above the dome, blotting the light from sight. The supreme test came +in 1762, when the lighthouse was subjected to a battering and pounding +far heavier than any that it had previously known. But the tower +emerged from this ordeal unscathed, and Smeaton’s work was accepted as +invulnerable. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +A THRILLING EXPERIENCE. + +Landing upon the Eddystone by the crane rope during a rough sea.] + +The lighthouse had been standing for 120 years, when ominous reports +were received by the Trinity Brethren concerning the stability of the +tower. The keepers stated that during severe storms the building shook +alarmingly. A minute inspection of the structure was made, and it was +found that, although the work of Smeaton’s masons was above reproach, +time and weather had left their mark. The tower was becoming decrepit. +The binding cement had decayed, and the air imprisoned and compressed +within the interstices by the waves was disintegrating the structure +slowly but surely. While there was no occasion to apprehend a sudden +collapse, still it was considered advisable to take precautionary +measures in time. Unfortunately, it was not feasible to strengthen +Smeaton’s tower so adequately as to give it a new lease of life, while +lighthouse engineering had made rapid strides in certain details since +it was completed. Another factor to be considered was the desire for a +more elevated light, capable of throwing its rays to a greater distance. + +Under these circumstances it was decided to build a new tower on +another convenient ledge, forming part of the main reef, about 120 feet +distant. Sir James Douglass, the Engineer-in-Chief to Trinity House, +completed the designs and personally superintended their execution. +The Smeaton lines were taken as a basis, with one important exception. +Instead of the curve commencing at the foundations, the latter +comprised a perfect cylindrical monolith of masonry 22 feet in height +by 44 feet in diameter. From this base the tower springs to a height +which brings the focal plane 130 feet above the highest spring-tides. +The top of the base is 30 inches above high-water, and the tower’s +diameter at this point being less than that of its plinth, the set-off +forms an excellent landing-stage when the weather permits. + +The site selected for the Douglass tower being lower than that chosen +by Smeaton, the initial work was more exacting, as the duration +of the working period was reduced. The rock, being gneiss, was +extremely tough, and the preliminary quarrying operations for the +foundation-stones which had to be sunk into the rock were tedious and +difficult, especially as the working area was limited. Each stone was +dovetailed, not only to its neighbour on either side, but below and +above as well. The foundation-stones were dovetailed into the reef, +and were secured still further by the aid of two bolts, each 1½ inches +in diameter, which were passed through the stone and sunk deeply into +the rock below. The exposed position of the reef enabled work to be +continued only fitfully during the calmest weather, for often when wind +and sea were quiet the rock was inaccessible owing to the swell. Upon +the approach of bad weather everything was made fast under the direct +supervision of the engineer--a man who took no chances. + +From the set-off the tower is solid to a height of 25½ feet, except +for two fresh-water tanks sunk in the floor of the entrance-room, +which hold 4,700 gallons. At this point the walls are no less than +8½ feet thick, and the heavy teak door is protected by an outer door +of gun-metal, weighing a ton, both of which are closed during rough +weather. + +The tower has eight floors, exclusive of the entrance; there are two +oilrooms, one above the other, holding 4,300 gallons of oil, above +which is a coal and store room, followed by a second storeroom. Outside +the tower at this level is a crane, by which supplies are hoisted, and +which also facilitates the landing and embarkation of the keepers, who +are swung through the air in a stirrup attached to the crane rope. +Then in turn come the living-room, the “low-light” room, bedroom, +service-room, and finally the lantern. For the erection of the tower, +2,171 blocks of granite, which were previously fitted temporarily in +their respective positions on shore, and none of which weighed less +than 2 tons, were used. When the work was commenced, the engineer +estimated that the task would occupy five years, but on May 18, 1882, +the lamp was lighted by the Duke of Edinburgh, the Master of Trinity +House at the time, the enterprise having occupied only four years. +Some idea may thus be obtained of the energy with which the labour was +pressed forward, once the most trying sections were overcome. + +Whereas the former lights on this rock had been of the fixed type, a +distinctive double flash was now introduced. The optical apparatus +is of the biform dioptric type, emitting a beam of some 300,000 +candle-power intensity, which is visible for seventeen miles. In +addition to this measure of warning, two powerful Argand burners, +with reflectors, were set up in the low-light room for the purpose of +throwing a fixed ray from a point 40 feet below the main flashing beam, +to mark a dangerous reef lying 3½ miles to the north-west, known as +Hand Deeps. + +When the new tower was completed and brought into service, the Smeaton +building was demolished. This task was carried out with extreme care, +inasmuch as the citizens of Plymouth had requested that the historic +Eddystone structure might be re-erected on Plymouth Hoe, on the spot +occupied by the existing Trinity House landmark. The authorities agreed +to this proposal, and the ownership of the Smeaton tower was forthwith +transferred to the people of Plymouth. But demolition was carried out +only to the level of Smeaton’s lower storeroom. The staircase, well and +entrance were filled up with masonry, the top was bevelled off, and in +the centre of the stump an iron pole was planted. While the Plymouth +Hoe relic is but one half of the tower, its re-erection was completed +faithfully, and, moreover, carries the original candelabra which the +famous engineer devised. + +Not only is the Douglass tower a beautiful example of lighthouse +engineering, but it was relatively cheap. The engineer, when he +prepared the designs, estimated that an outlay of £78,000, or $390,000, +would be incurred. As a matter of fact, the building cost only £59,255, +or $296,275, and a saving of £18,000, or $90,000, in a work of this +magnitude is no mean achievement. All things considered, the Eddystone +is one of the cheapest sea-rock lights which has ever been consummated. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +SOME FAMOUS LIGHTS OF ENGLAND + + +The captain of the lordly liner, as he swings down Channel or +approaches the English coast from the broad Atlantic, maintains a +vigilant watch until the light or the slender proportions of the lonely +outpost rising apparently from the ocean’s depths off the south-west +corner of the Scilly Islands, become visible. This is the Bishop Rock, +the western sentinel of the English Channel, mounting guard over as +wicked a stretch of sea as may be found anywhere between the two Poles, +where the maritime traffic is densest and where wrecks, unfortunately, +are only too frequent; for the toll levied by the sea off the Cornish +coast is fearful. + +Among these islands was planted one of the first beacons erected off +the British coasts. At the outset it was merely a wood bonfire, then a +brazier, and finally a lighthouse, which crowned St. Agnes’s height, to +guide the mariner on his way. But to-day the St. Agnes light is no more +than a memory. Two or three years ago the keepers quenched the light in +the misty grey of the dawn for the last time. The vigil which had been +maintained over shipping uninterruptedly through some 230 years was +ended. On a neighbouring point a superior modern light had been planted +which took up the sacred duty. Although established in 1680, the St. +Agnes was not the oldest light in England. This distinction belongs to +the North Foreland light on the East Kentish coast, which was set going +as far back as 1636. This warning was shed from a tower of timber, +lath, and plaster, built by Sir John Meldrum, but it fell a victim to +fire forty-seven years later. The light was reconstructed promptly, and +to-day throws a red and white gleam of 35,000 candle-power, which may +be picked up twenty miles away. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE “BISHOP,” THE WESTERN OUTPOST OF ENGLAND. + +This tower marks a treacherous reef, rising from the depths of the +Atlantic off the Scilly Islands. Its slim proportions are familiar to +Transatlantic passengers.] + +The south-western extremity of England, however, is far more to be +dreaded than the south-eastern. Here Nature mixed land and water in +an inextricable maze during her moulding process. Deep, tortuous, +wide channels separate rugged granite islets, while long, ugly ridges +creep stealthily out to sea beneath the pall of water, ready to trap +the unsuspecting vessel which ventures too closely. If one were to +take a map of this part of the country, were to dig one leg of a +compass into the Lizard Head, stretching the other so as to reach the +Eddystone light, and then were to describe a circle, the enclosed space +would contain more famous sea-rock lights than a similar area on any +other part of the globe. Within its circumference there would be the +Eddystone, Bishop Rock, Wolf, and Longships, each of which lifts its +cupola above a wave-swept ledge of rocks. + +The need for an adequate indication of the Scillies was felt long +before the Eddystone gained its ill fame. These scattered masses of +granite, numbering about 140 in all, break up the expanse of the +Atlantic about twenty miles south-west of the Cornish mainland. Now, +the maritime traffic flowing in and out of the English Channel is +divided into two broad classes--the coastal and the oversea trade +respectively. The former is able to creep through the dangerous channel +separating the Scillies from the mainland, but the latter has to make a +détour to the south. One fringe of the broken cluster is as dangerous +as the other, so that both streams of trade demand protection. + +On the south side the knots dot the sea in all directions. They are +mere black specks, many only revealing themselves at lowest tides; +others do not betray their existence even then. The outermost ledge +is the Bishop Rock, where disasters have been fearful and numerous. +One of the most terrible catastrophes on record happened here, +when three vessels of Sir Cloudesley Shovel’s fleet went to pieces +in the year 1707, and dragged 2,000 men down with them, including +the Admiral himself. In more recent times, some two or three years +ago, the Atlantic transport liner _Minnehaha_ dragged her lumbering +body over the selfsame attenuated rampart, and was badly damaged +before she could be rescued. As may be supposed, in days gone by the +awful character of the coast brought prosperity to the inhabitants +of Cornwall, who reaped rich harvests from the inhuman practice of +wrecking, in which horrible work the Scilly Islanders were easily +pre-eminent and more successful, since they held the outer lines upon +which the majority of ships came to grief. + +In the forties of last century it was decided that this graveyard +should be marked, but there was one great difficulty. This was the +exposure of the low-lying rock to some 4,000 miles of open Atlantic, +where the rollers rise and fall with a force that turns the waters for +miles around into a seething maelstrom of foam and surf. The aspect +presented at this spot during a stiff south-westerly or westerly gale +is terrifying in the extreme, and it is not surprising that approaching +vessels stand so far off that the tower is often barely discernible +against the background of cloud and banks of mist caused by the spray +hurled into the air from the breakers smashing on the rocks. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE WOLF ROCK LIGHTHOUSE. + +One of the famous lights of England. Owing to the rocks being exposed +to the full fury of the Atlantic, its erection was attended with +prodigious difficulty.] + +When it was proposed to build a lighthouse upon a crag in the heart +of this vortex, many people who knew the neighbourhood shook their +heads doubtfully. The ledge was so small, the force of the elements +so powerful, that it appeared to be tempting Fate unduly to attempt +the erection of a slim stalk of stonework thereon. Some records of +the wind pressure exerted during the heaviest tempests were taken, +and they showed that the pressure of the wind at times exceeded 7,000 +pounds per square foot. It was decided to provide a structure which +should offer the minimum of resistance to the waves. This assumed the +form of the iron screw-pile tower so common in American waters. The +legs were cast-iron tubes sunk into the solid granite, braced and +stayed by means of wrought-iron rods. The engineers maintained that the +waves would be able to roll unrestrainedly among the piles, instead of +being obstructed, so that the skeleton building would escape the heavy +buffetings which solid masonry would experience. + +But engineering science proved woefully frail when pitted against the +unharnessed forces of Nature. A heavy gale sprang up one night; the +waves rose and fell upon the stilts, broke them up like reeds, and +carried away the whole of the superstructure. The following low-tide +revealed only a few short lengths of broken and bent tubes, around +which the waves bubbled and hissed as if in triumph at their victory. +Thus ended the first attempt to provide the Bishop Rock with a +lighthouse. + +The engineer, though defeated, was not dismayed. As a skeleton +structure was impotent, he would erect a massive masonry tower which +not all the force of the waves could avail to demolish. Although the +reef is about 150 feet in length by 52 feet in width, the engineer, +James Walker, was not afforded much space upon which to place his +creation. He reconnoitred the ridge, and finally chose a small lump +just sufficiently large upon which to effect a foothold. The Smeaton +type of tower was his model, and the surface of the rock was trimmed to +receive the first blocks. This was the greatest difficulty. Unless the +sea were as smooth as a millpond, he was helpless, as the lowest blocks +had to be laid a foot beneath low-water mark. A heavy cofferdam was +erected around the site, and the water within was pumped out, so that +the masons might be able to toil upon a dry rock-face. + +The exposed, isolated character of the spot rendered the housing of +the workmen a problem in itself. They could not be accommodated on the +site; a temporary dwelling on piles for their accommodation could not +be established, as it would come down with the first gale, and housing +on a tender was equally impracticable. There was a small uninhabited +islet within convenient distance of the reef, and on this the +living-quarters and workshops were erected, the men being transported +to and fro whenever the conditions were suitable. Traces of this bygone +industrial activity still remain on the island, but the sea-fowl have +once more claimed it exclusively as their home. The working spells +were brief, as well as being somewhat few and far between, while +the base was being prepared. The granite was brought to the island +depot, fashioned into shape, and then sent to the Bishop for erection. +Granite was used exclusively, and in 1878, after seven years’ arduous +labour, the tower, 120 feet in height, capped by a powerful light, was +completed: the dreaded Bishop Rock was conquered at last. + +When it was first commissioned, four men were deputed to watch this +light, three being on the rock, and the fourth man on leave at St. +Mary’s. The duty was for three months continuous, one man being +relieved every month if possible; but, as a matter of fact, the spell +on the rock often was increased, owing to the weather rendering it +impossible to exchange the men. The character of their duty, under the +terrible assaults of the sea, played havoc with the constitutions and +nerves of the lighthouse-keepers. They became taciturn, and inevitably +fell victims to neurasthenia, owing to their long periods of isolation. +Accordingly the authorities gradually relaxed the spell of duty, +until now it comprises a month on the rock, followed by a fortnight +ashore, while six men, instead of four, are appointed to the station. +The Bishop light demands watchers of iron constitution and prolonged +experience of the rigours of imprisonment upon a lonely rock. The men +appear to suffer most from the fear that one day the seas will regain +the upper hand and carry the slender-looking shaft of masonry away. +When the Atlantic is roused to fury, the din created by the waves +smashing against the tower and reef is so deafening that the keepers +can only converse by signs. + +The attacks which this tower has to withstand are fearful. When the +equinoxes are raging, it is no uncommon circumstance for the waves +to roll up the side of the tower and hurl themselves clean over +the lantern. The enormous force of the water was brought home very +startlingly to the attendants of the light one night, when a more than +usually wicked breaker slid up the curved round face and wrenched the +fog-bell, weighing 550 pounds, from its fastenings on the lantern +gallery. The ponderous piece of metal was dashed on to the reef and +smashed to fragments. A small piece was recovered after the gale, and +is now preserved in the Trinity House museum as an interesting memento +of the night when the Atlantic almost got the upper hand. The nerves of +the men are tried severely, also, by memories of the terrible marine +disasters which have happened on or near the ridge, such as that of the +German packet _Schiller_, which went down in 1875 with the loss of 331 +lives. + +It is not surprising that the ceaseless attacks of the waves should +have left their traces at last. The light had been burning for about +twenty years, when tremors and quakings, similar to those observed +in connection with Smeaton’s Eddystone tower, were reported to the +authorities. Sir James Douglass visited the rock, and made a minute +inspection. It was apparent that the lighthouse demanded extensive +overhauling and strengthening if it were to be preserved. In fact, +this was the only feasible course of action, as there was not +another suitable spot whereon a new structure could be raised. The +Eddystone had been completed, and as the same tackle was available, +the protective work was undertaken at once. In conjunction with this +enterprise, the engineer also advocated an increase in the height of +the tower. + +His plans met with approval, and an ingenious means of strengthening +the existing building was evolved. Virtually it comprised the erection +of a new tower around the old shaft, and connected to the latter, +so as to form one homogeneous structure. In order to strengthen the +foundations, massive blocks of masonry were sunk into the rock, +cemented, and held in position by heavy bolts. From the masons’ point +of view, the task of overhauling was more exciting and dangerous than +that which had attended the erection of the original tower; for the +men had to toil on narrow, swinging platforms, cutting notches in the +face of every stone in the existing structure to receive dovetails on +the blocks of the new outer shell. Thus the latter were dovetailed +to adjacent blocks on five out of their six faces. A massive chain +was slung round the upper part of the tower, from which life-lines +hung down to the men working below. A man was stationed as a lookout. +When he saw a breaker approaching he gave a signal; each man clutched +his life-rope tenaciously and retained his foothold as best he could +on his perilous perch while the water swept over him. Often the men +were submerged by a rushing wave, and when the water subsided shook +themselves like dogs emerging from the water. But the provision of the +life-ropes prevented serious injury and loss of life, although the +masons at times were considerably knocked about. + +The tower has been given an enormous, massive, cylindrical base, +while the shaft is solid to the entrance level, except for the +usual water-tanks. The attachment of the outer shell reinforced it +remarkably, the walls at the entrance being increased to a thickness of +8 feet. The addition of the four extra floors elevated the light by a +further 40 feet, the focal plane now being 163 feet above high-water. +The light, of 622,500 candle-power, visible for eighteen miles, is +a white group-flash, there being two flashes, each of four seconds’ +duration, with an intervening eclipse of five seconds, while the groups +are separated by intervals of forty-seven seconds. + +Off the northern shores of the Scillies, standing in the strait which +provides a short-cut around the toe of England, is another magnificent +tower. This is the Wolf Rock lighthouse, marking the reef of that name, +which lies eight miles off Land’s End in the fairway of the coastal +traffic. The cluster of rocks from which it rises is just as dangerous +as that to the south, and is exposed likewise to the full fury of the +south-westerly gales coming in from the Atlantic. It was one of the +most attractive spots to the old Cornish wreckers, for ships which +lost their way during the fogs which hang about this coast invariably +blundered into the reef, to be smashed to pieces within a very short +time. + +This spot was not so greatly feared by the seafarer when heavy gales +prevailed. There was a hollow rock on the ridge, into which the waves +were driven. In so doing they compressed the air within the space, +which, as it escaped, produced a long, distinctive wail, recalling the +cry of the wolf. It was this natural phenomenon which gave the rock +its name. The harder the wind blew, and the higher the waves rose, +the louder was the reverberating bellow, and, as it could be heard +distinctly above the music of the storm, the navigator was able to +steer clear of the formidable obstruction. On the other hand, during +periods of heavy fog, when the waves were usually quiet, there was +scarcely any perceptible sound. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE LONGSHIPS LIGHT. + +In the background is the forbidding iron-bound Cornish coast, where +wrecks unfortunately are frequent.] + +The Wolf Rock would be growling to this day had it not been for the +inhuman action of the Cornish plunderers. They detested the weird noise +as cordially as the mariner blessed it. It robbed them of so many rich +hauls that at last they decided to silence the rock for ever. They +filled the cavity with large boulders, which were carried out in boats +from the mainland and dumped overboard. Then the Cornishmen met with a +spell of enhanced prosperity from the increased number of wrecks which +occurred. + +When the exigencies of commerce demanded that the reef should be +guarded, a most fantastic device was prepared. An attempt was made to +restore artificially the natural siren. A fabric wrought in copper +in the form of a huge wolf with distended jaws was contrived, the +designers averring that the air would rush in and produce a distinctive +whistle. This grotesque danger-signal never reached its destination. +It would have been absolutely useless even had it been placed over the +rock, as the first lively sea would have carried it away, while the +noise produced, if any, would have been inaudible more than a few feet +away. + +The Trinity Brethren at last took the matter up, but their +investigations caused them to doubt the possibility of building a +lighthouse on such a forbidding spot. They did the next best thing. +They drove a thick oak joist into the rock, and attached a coloured +sphere to its upper extremity. This constituted a valuable landmark by +day, but was useless at night. But its life was brief. The first storm +which swept the reef after the erection of the beacon tore it up +by the roots. It was replaced by a heavy mast of wrought-iron, which +suffered a similar fate, as did also a third iron pole 9 inches in +diameter. At last a low conical stump was built upon the ridge, with +the staff and sphere projecting from its centre. This defied wind and +wave successfully for many years. Its permanency impressed the builders +of the Bishop Rock light, who came to the conclusion that, as the small +conical tower held hard and fast, a masonry tower could be given just +as firm a hold. + +When the engineer approached the reef to make his surveys, he found +the water boiling and bubbling madly, and it was some time before he +could get a foothold. He completed his examination, and then found, to +his dismay, that the boat could not approach to take him off. He could +not stay where he was, as the tide, which was rising, would engulf the +reef within a short time, so he resorted to a bold expedient. He had +taken the precaution to bring a life-line with him, so that he was +in touch with the boat. He looped this round his waist securely, and +then, telling the men to pull as hard as they could, he plunged into +the water. In this manner he was dragged through the furious surf and +pulled into the boat, thoroughly drenched, but otherwise none the worse +for his adventure. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE GODREVY LIGHT, SCILLY ISLANDS. + +It marks a forbidding clump of rocks, landing on which is always +exciting.] + +The work was begun in 1862, when the masons were despatched to the +rock to prepare the face for the reception of the bottom masonry +blocks. The tedious and exceptionally dangerous character of the work +was emphasized very forcibly upon those engaged in the task. It was +seldom that the water was sufficiently placid to enable a landing to +be made. Then, as the working spell was very brief, being restricted +to low-tide, the men could pause only for a few minutes at a time, +and even during these were menaced by the breakers. During the first +working season only eighty-three hours of labour were possible--a fact +which conveys a graphic idea of the exposed character of the site, its +difficulty of access, and the short time available for work between the +tides. + +While excavations were under way, the preparation of a landing-stage +was taken in hand. As only small blocks of stone could be used, +naturally it occupied a considerable time. It was, however, essential, +in order to permit the erection of a derrick by which the heavy blocks +for the tower could be lifted from the construction boat to the rock. +On the rock-face itself the masons toiled strenuously, chipping, +scraping, and paring away all the faulty pieces of gneiss, so that a +firm, solid foundation was secured, into which the bottom course of +stones was dovetailed and anchored. + +Owing to the frequency with which the rock was swept by the seas, +special precautions had to be adopted to insure the safety of the +workmen. Iron dogs were driven into the rock at frequent points, +to which ropes were fastened and allowed to trail across the rock, +each mason being urged to keep one of these life-lines always within +arm’s length. As an additional precaution he was compelled to wear a +lifebelt, which, although it hampered free movement somewhat, yet gave +the wearer, if he lost his foothold or were thrown into the water, +a chance of keeping afloat until the lifeboat standing by was able +to reach him. A Cornish fisherman, who was familiar with the seas on +this part of the coast, and who could judge a breaking wave from a +distance, acted as a lookout. When he saw a comber about to creep over +the rock, he gave a signal, when the workmen clutched their life-lines, +and, with feet firmly planted and the ropes drawn taut, or throwing +themselves prostrate, with heads pointed to the advancing wave, allowed +the breaker to roll over them and expend its violence harmlessly. Time +after time the masons were buried beneath huge tumbling hills of water. +Work under such conditions was decidedly irksome, and progress was very +appreciably retarded, but the safety of the workmen was, of course, +the pre-eminent consideration. Curiously enough, these men who face +the perils, privations, and exciting incessant dangers, incidental to +lighthouse building, are extremely superstitious. If an undertaking +such as the Wolf were attended by a disaster and loss of life in +its initial stages, the completion of the task might be seriously +jeopardized. The rock would be regarded as a “hoo-doo,” and would be +shunned like a fever-stricken city. Therefore the engineer will go to +any lengths to secure, so far as is humanly possible, the preservation +of the lives and limbs of those in his employ. This is the chief reason +why the erection of these wonderful towers has been attended by so few +accidents or fatalities, while the men fitted for the task are so few +that the engineer cannot afford to disturb their peace of mind. + +The Wolf tower follows the generally accepted lines, and is solid at +the base. It is wrought throughout of granite, the stones being joggled +together. One ingenious measure was adopted in connection with the +lower courses in order to prevent the action of the waves from breaking +up the cement in the exposed joints and setting up disintegration. The +upper surface of each stone is given a wide rabbet, and the stone above +fits into the recess so that the horizontal joint between the two is +covered by the outer fillet, thereby protecting it completely. This +practice was followed throughout all the lower courses to a height of +39 feet, and the security thus obtained is reflected by the strength of +the tower to-day after half a century’s wear. + +Work proceeded so slowly in the early stages, owing to the abnormal +conditions, that by the end of 1864 only thirty-seven stones in the +second course of masonry were laid. In the meantime, however, the +landing-stage had been practically completed, and the erection of the +crane enabled the blocks for the tower to be transferred to the rock +with greater ease and rapidity. The tower, 135 feet in height, was +completed on July 19, 1869, while the light was brought into service +early in the following year. Eight years were expended upon the +enterprise, and during this period 296 landings were effected upon the +rock and 1,814 hours of labour were consummated. This is equal to about +101 working days of ten hours each, or, on the average, less than one +hour every day of the years occupied in the undertaking. The lantern +throws a powerful white light, which in clear weather may be seen from +twenty to twenty-five miles away. The cost of the enterprise was +£62,726, or $313,630--nearly twice that of the first Bishop Rock light. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson._ + +THE CHICKEN ROCK LIGHTHOUSE, OFF THE ISLE OF MAN. + +It marks a dangerous reef. The revolving light of 143,000 candle-power +is visible for sixteen miles. Although the lantern is 143 feet above +the water, the waves frequently engulf it.] + +Another gaunt structure rears itself from a reef a few miles to the +north-west of the Wolf, and a short distance off the Land’s End. This +is the Longships light. The name itself suggests a light-vessel, and +a stranger is surprised to learn that it is an imposing building, +worthy of comparison with the two other structures already described +which guard the Scillies. Although it is within a short distance of +the mainland, its exposed situation rendered its construction as +exasperatingly difficult as that of both the Bishop and Wolf lights. A +few miles farther north another powerful light indicates the “Kingdom +of Heaven,” as the black hump of Lundy Island, rising out of the +Bristol Channel, is colloquially called, from the name of its clerical +owner. + +On the opposite side and due north of this bight, the Pembrokeshire +coast breaks off abruptly at St. David’s Head, only to reappear out +at sea in some twenty little rugged islets known as The Smalls. They +occur some twenty-one miles off the mainland, and for years they played +havoc with the shipping plying between North of England ports and +the Bristol Channel. These rocks--for they are little else--were the +private property of a Liverpool gentleman, who became so distracted +by the frequency of disaster that, in 1773, he decided to crown +them with a beacon. He selected a musical instrument manufacturer +named Whiteside as his engineer, and this amateur mechanic, after an +inspection, decided to place the warning light on a tiny crag which +projected about 5 feet above high-water. It is somewhat strange that +the adequate safeguarding of two devastating parts of the south-western +coast of England should have been placed in the hands of men who were +not professional engineers. Rudyerd, the silk-mercer, was responsible +for the second Eddystone, and here was an instrument-maker taking +over one of the most difficult enterprises it was possible to find. +Yet both these amateur engineers inscribed their names ineffaceably +upon two of the most evil spots around the coasts of the British +Islands. Rudyerd gave us the true conical design, which has never +been superseded for strength and stability; while Whiteside evolved a +skeleton tower which braved the most tempestuous seas for some eighty +years. In the first instance the latter carried out his work in iron, +thinking that metal would prove irresistible, but within a short time +he replaced it with heavy legs of oak. The frail-looking structure was +submitted to storms of almost seismic violence, but it withstood them +all for over half a century, when a peculiarly vicious wave, as it +rolled between the supports, suddenly flew upwards, driving the floor +of the keepers’ quarters into the roof. It was an exceptional accident, +which no engineer could have foreseen. When the Trinity House Brethren +took over the light, their chief engineer, Mr. James Walker, looked +upon the erection as such a fine piece of work that the damage was +repaired, and the Whiteside light gleamed for a further twenty years +before it gave place to the present graceful stone building. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +HOW THE SKERRYVORE IS BUILT. + +In the centre, a vertical section. At sides, transverse sections at +different masonry courses, showing method of laying the stones.] + +It was a grim episode at this light which brought about the practice +of appointing three men at least to a sea light-station. When first +completed, The Smalls was provided with only two keepers, and on one +occasion one of the two died. His companion refrained from committing +the body to the sea, lest he might be suspected of foul-play, so he +constructed a rough shell, in which he placed the body of his dead +chum, and stood the grisly burden on end beside his flag of distress +on the gallery outside the lantern. As the spell of duty in those days +was four months, it was some time before the relief came out. Then +they discovered a shattered human wreck tending the lights, who had +never neglected his duty under the onerous and weird conditions, but +who nevertheless had become broken down and aged under the terrible +ordeal. After this experience three men instead of two were placed on +duty at all such exposed and inaccessible lights. It may be recalled +that Alphonse Daudet tells a similar creepy story which was related +to him by a light-keeper on the rugged Corsican coast, and which he +narrates in the “Phares des Sanguinaires.” A similar experience is +also associated with Rudyerd’s Eddystone light. + +Off the North Welsh coast there are the famous lights of the South +Stack and the Skerries, the latter rising out of the water on a +dangerous cluster of rocks off Carmel Head. The Isle of Man also +possesses a magnificent specimen of lighthouse engineering in the +Chicken Rock light, the work of the brothers Stevenson, which, although +in the Irish Sea, comes within the jurisdiction of the Commissioners +of Northern Lights. This tower stands on a reef which is submerged by +6 feet of water even at high neap-tides. When a gale is raging and the +spring-tides are at their highest, the waves frequently engulf the +lantern, although it is perched 143 feet above the water. The light is +of 143,000 candle-power, of the revolving type, and visible for sixteen +miles in clear weather. + +Entering the English Channel from the Scillies, the voyager observes +the powerful Lizard light gleaming like two brilliant white stars from +a prominent elevated point on the cliff. Formerly three lights were +shown, but two were found to meet the necessities of the situation +adequately. The steamship lane lies across the chord of the arc +formed by the coastline between the Lizard and Start Point, leaving +the Eddystone to the north. The next important light is the Needles, +at the entrance to the Solent. A few miles farther on the brilliant +spoke-light flashes of St. Catherine’s, described in another chapter, +compel attention. No other light after this is seen until Beachy Head +is approached. Another dreary stretch brings the vessel abeam the nose +of Kentish coast known as Dungeness, a particularly notorious danger +spot. Here there is a continual struggle between the engineers and the +sea. While the waves gnaw into the coastline at other neighbouring +places, here they surrender their capture, so that the headland is +persistently creeping farther and farther out to sea. It is lighted, +and has been guarded for years, but the tower is left at a constantly +increasing distance from the water’s edge. The light has been moved +once or twice, so as to fulfil its purpose to the best advantage, but +the engineer will be kept on the alert until the currents change their +courses and refrain from piling up further drift at this point. This +light, coming as it does at the entrance to the bottle-neck of the +English Channel, is of prime importance to navigation, because vessels, +after they have rounded the South Foreland, make a bee-line for this +headland. + +Since the eastern coast of England is flanked by sandbanks and shoals, +the lighthouse is not in powerful evidence, the aids to navigation +consisting chiefly of light-vessels, which are distributed liberally +so as to patrol completely a treacherous stretch of shoals. Northwards +the sandy, low-lying wastes give way to towering cliffs, amongst which +Flamborough Head and its light are conspicuous. At the far northern +limit of the operations of Trinity House comes the Longstones, mounting +guard over the terrible Farne Islands and their rocky outposts. Who has +not heard of the heroism of Grace Darling, the light-keeper’s daughter, +and the thrilling rescue, in the teeth of a hurricane, of the exhausted +survivors of the _Forfarshire_? + +Complaints have been made often regarding the paucity of powerful +lights around the coast of England, but the criticism scarcely is +deserved. All the prominent and most dangerous spots are lighted +adequately, and, as may be recognized, the provision of these lights +has proved an exacting and costly enterprise. What England may lack in +numbers in this particular field of engineering is compensated for by +the daring nature of the works completed, which are regarded throughout +the world as marvellous achievements. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE BELL ROCK AND SKERRYVORE LIGHTS + + +At first sight it seems somewhat remarkable--some might feel disposed +to challenge the assertion--that so small a country as Scotland +should stand pre-eminent among the nations of the world as being that +possessed of the greatest number of imposing sea-rock lights. But such +is the case. Moreover, North Britain offers some of the finest and most +impressive specimens of the lighthouse builder’s resource and skill to +be found in any part of the globe. + +When the responsibility for lighting the Scottish coasts was handed +over to the Commissioners for Northern Lighthouses, one of their first +tasks was the adequate illumination of the wave-swept Inchcape or Bell +Rock, which lies some twelve miles off the Scottish mainland in the +busy portal of the Firth of Tay. At that time this sinister menace +to navigation was not marked in any way whatever, and apparently had +remained in this unprotected condition ever since the notorious pirate, +Ralph the Rover, cut away the buoy-bell which had been placed upon it +by the Abbot of Aberbrothock, as narrated in Southey’s famous ballad. + +The rock, or rather reef--inasmuch as it measures 2,000 feet from end +to end, and lies athwart the fairway--is submerged completely to a +depth of 16 feet at high spring-tides, while at lowest water only some +4 feet of its crest are laid bare here and there. This is not all. The +ledge is the summit of a dangerous, slowly-rising submarine hillock, +where, for a distance of about 100 yards on either side, the lead +sounds only 3 fathoms. Wrecks were so numerous and terrible at this +spot that the protection of the seafaring community became imperative, +and the newly-appointed guardians of the Scottish coast lost no time +in justifying the trust reposed in them, but erected a first-class +light. The Eddystone had been conquered, and, although the conditions +were dissimilar and the enterprise bolder, no tangible reason against +its imitation was advanced. + +The engineer John Rennie was entrusted with the work, while Robert +Stevenson was appointed as his assistant. The rock was surveyed, and +a tower similar in its broad lines to that evolved by Smeaton for the +Eddystone was elaborated, and the authority for its construction given +in the year 1806. + +Work upon the rock in the earliest stages was confined to the calmest +days of the summer season, when the tides were lowest, the water was +smoothest, and the wind in its calmest mood. Under such conditions the +men were able to stay on the site for about five hours. The engineer +hoped against hope that the elements would be kind to him, and that he +would be able to complete the preliminary work upon the rock in one +season. + +The constructional plans were prepared carefully, so that advantage +might be taken of every promising opportunity. One distinct drawback +was the necessity to establish a depot some distance from the erecting +site. Those were the days before steam navigation, and the capricious +sailing craft offered the only means of maintaining communication +between rock and shore, and for the conveyance of men and material +to and fro. The year 1807 was devoted to the construction of vessels +for the work, and to the establishment of workshops with machinery +and other facilities at Arbroath, the nearest suitable point on the +mainland to the rock. A temporary beacon was placed on the reef, while +adjacent to the site selected for the tower a smith’s forge was made +fast, so as to withstand the dragging motion of the waves when the +rock was submerged. The men were housed on the _Smeaton_, which during +the spells of work on the rock rode at anchor a short distance away in +deep water. The arrangements stipulated that three boats, which were +employed to bring the men from the vessel to the rock, should always +be moored at the landing-place, so that, in the event of the weather +changing for the worse, the masons, forced to cease work suddenly, +might regain the _Smeaton_ safely in one trip, the three boats being +able to convey thirty men, which constituted the average complement on +the rock. + +While the preparations were proceeding ashore, a little body of workers +toiled, whenever possible, at clearing the face of the rock and +carrying out the requisite excavation work. While this was in progress +a disaster was averted very narrowly, which would have jeopardized the +completion of the tower, owing to the superstitious natures of the men +engaged. On September 2, 1807, the _Smeaton_, as usual, had brought out +some thirty masons, had landed them safely on the rock, and was riding +at anchor. + +Suddenly the wind freshened, and the engineer on the rock grew +apprehensive of the _Smeaton_ dragging her cables. A party at once put +off from the rock in one of the three boats and regained the ship, but +were scarcely aboard when the cables parted, and the vessel, caught by +the wind and tide, made off. Before the men regained control of her +she had drifted some three miles to leeward. Meantime on the rock the +situation was growing serious. Only Mr. Stevenson, who was supervising +operations on the spot, and the landing-master were aware of its +gravity. The masons were so busy hewing, boring and chiselling, that +they had not noticed the _Smeaton’s_ drift. But the engineer, observing +the flowing of the tide, realized that the rock must be submerged +before the ship could be brought up again. He racked his brains to find +some means of getting his gang of men off safely in the nick of time, +but it was a searching problem to solve with only two boats, which, at +the utmost, could carry twenty-four persons. To make matters worse, one +of those mists which are so peculiar to the Scottish coast began to +settle down, blotting everything from sight. + +The water rose higher. The men toiling on the lowest levels receded +higher and higher before the advancing tide, though still too deeply +occupied in their labours to bestow a thought upon the _Smeaton_. +At last the smith’s forge was quenched, and this was the general +signal to the men to prepare to leave the rock. Tools were collected, +and the party strode towards the landing-stage to enter the boats. +Conceive their consternation when they saw that one boat was missing! +When they glanced over the water the _Smeaton_ was not riding in her +usual place--in fact, was nowhere to be seen! One and all gathered +around the engineer to learn the reason for this remarkable breach in +the arrangements for their safety, and yet all were too dumbfounded +to question or protest. As for the luckless engineer, he was at his +wits’ end and could not offer a word of explanation to the inquiring +looks that besieged him. One and all, as the water lapped their feet, +realized the hopelessness of the position. Suddenly, when they were +beginning to despair, one of the men described the phantom form of a +vessel making for the rock. “A boat!” he shouted in exultation. Sure +enough the shadow matured into the familiar form of the Tay pilot-boat, +the master of which, observing the workmen on the rock, the rising +tide, and the absence of the _Smeaton_, had realized that something +must have gone wrong, and approached the rock to make inquiries. He +came up at the critical moment. The men were drenched, and, their +feelings having been strung to a high pitch with anxiety, they nearly +collapsed at the arrival of this unexpected assistance. The pilot-boat, +after taking off the men, awaited the return of the _Smeaton_, which +took them on board about midnight. + +This narrow escape so terrified the men that on the following day the +engineer found only eight of his staff of thirty-two, who were willing +to venture upon the rock again. When this gang returned in the evening, +their safety appeared to restore courage to their companions, so that +next day all expressed their readiness to resume their tasks. + +The fitful character of the work did not leave its mark so distinctly +as might be supposed. Whenever there was a chance, the men worked with +an amazing will and zeal; and although the first stone of the tower was +not laid until July 10, 1808, three courses of masonry were completed +when the undertaking was suspended at the end of November for the +winter. The succeeding season’s toil saw the addition of about 27 feet +more of the tower, which was finally completed by the close of 1810. +The building was 120 feet in height, and the light was shown for the +first time on February 1, 1811. + +In view of the difficulties which had to be surmounted, this “ruddy +gem of changeful light,” as it is described by Sir Walter Scott, was +not particularly costly. By the time it was brought into commission, +£61,330, or $306,650, had been expended. In 1902, after nearly a +century’s service, the tower was provided with a new light-room, so as +to bring it into conformity with modern practice. + +While the Bell Rock tower stands as a monument to the engineering +ability of Robert Stevenson, the Skerryvore, on the western coast, is +a striking tribute to the genius of his son, Alan. For forty years or +more previous to 1844 one ship at least had been caught and shattered +every year on this tumbled mass of gneiss. From the navigator’s point +of view, the danger of this spot lay chiefly in the fact that it was so +widely scattered. The ridge runs like a broken backbone for a distance +of some eight miles in a west-south-westerly direction, and it is +flanked on each side by isolated rocks which jut from a badly-broken +sea-bed. The whole mass lies some distance out to sea, being ten miles +south-west of Tyree and twenty-four miles west of Iona. In rough +weather the whole of the rocks are covered, and the waves, beating +heavily on the mass, convert the scene into one of indescribable tumult. + +The Commissioners of Northern Lights acknowledged the urgent need of +a light upon this ridge, but it was realized that its erection would +represent the most daring feat of lighthouse engineering that had been +attempted up to this time. There was only one point where a tower +could be placed, and this was so exposed that the safe handling of the +men and materials constituted a grave responsibility. The rock has to +withstand the full impetus of the Atlantic waves, gathered in their +3,000 miles’ roll, and investigations revealed the fact that they bear +down upon the Skerryvore with a force equal to some 3 tons per square +foot. It was apparent that any masonry tower must be of prodigious +strength to resist such a battering, while at the same time a lofty +stack was imperative, because the light not only would have to mount +guard over the rock upon which it stood, but also over a vast stretch +of dangerous water on either side. + +After he had completed the Bell Rock light, Robert Stevenson attacked +the problem of the Skerryvore. In order to realize the magnitude of the +undertaking, some of the Commissioners accompanied the engineer, but +the experience of pulling out into the open Atlantic on a day when it +was slightly ruffled somewhat shook their determination to investigate +the reef from close quarters. Sir Walter Scott was a member of the +party, and he has described the journey very graphically. Before they +had gone far the Commissioners on board expressed their willingness to +leave the matter entirely in the hands of their engineer. With grim +Scottish humour, however, Robert Stevenson insisted that the rock +should be gained, so that the Commissioners might be able to grasp the +problem at first hand. + +But after all nothing was done. The difficulties surrounding the work +were only too apparent to the officials. They agreed that the expense +must be prodigious and that the risks to the workmen would be grave. + +In 1834 a second expedition was despatched to the reef under Alan +Stevenson, who had accompanied his father on the previous occasion, +and who now occupied the engineering chair. He surveyed the reef +thoroughly, traversing the dangerous channels around the isolated +humps, of which no less than 130 were counted, at great risk to himself +and his companions. However, he achieved his object. He discovered the +best site for the tower and returned home to prepare his plans. + +His proposals, for those days, certainly were startling. He decided to +follow generally the principles of design, which had been laid down +by his father in regard to the Bell Rock. But he planned something +bigger and more daring. He maintained that a tower 130 feet high, with +a base diameter of 42 feet, tapering in a curve to 16 feet at the top, +was absolutely necessary. It was the loftiest and weightiest work of +its character that had ever been contemplated up to this time, while +the peculiar situation of the reef demanded pioneering work in all +directions. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE SKERRYVORE, SCOTLAND’S MOST FAMOUS LIGHTHOUSE. + +The erection of this tower upon a straggling low-lying reef 24 miles +off Iona, and exposed to the full fury of the Atlantic, ranks as one of +the world’s engineering wonders.] + +The confidence of the Commissioners in the ability of their engineer +was so complete that he received the official sanction to begin, and in +1838 the undertaking was commenced. The engineer immediately formulated +his plans of campaign for a stiff struggle with Nature. One of the +greatest difficulties was the necessity to transport men, supplies +and material over a long distance, as the Scottish coast in this +vicinity is wild and sparsely populated. He established his base on the +neighbouring island of Tyree, where barracks for the workmen, and yards +for the preparation of the material, were erected, while another colony +was established on the Isle of Mull for the quarrying of the granite. +A tiny pier or jetty had to be built at this point to facilitate the +shipment of the stone, and at Tyree a small harbour had to be completed +to receive the vessel which was built specially for transportation +purposes between the base and the rock. + +Another preliminary was the provision of accommodation for the masons +upon the reef. The Atlantic swell, which rendered landing on the +ridge precarious and hazardous, did not permit the men to be housed +upon a floating home, as had been the practice in the early days +of the Bell Rock tower. In order to permit the work to go forward +as uninterruptedly as the sea would permit, a peculiar barrack was +erected. It was a house on stilts, the legs being sunk firmly into the +rock, with the living-quarters perched some 40 feet up in the air. The +skeleton type of structure was selected because it did not impede the +natural movement of the waves. It was an ingenious idea, and fulfilled +the purpose of its designer admirably, while the men became +accustomed to their strange home after a time. For two years it +withstood the seas without incident, and the engineer and men came to +regard the eyrie as safe as a house on shore. But one night the little +colony received a shock. The angry Atlantic got one or two of its +trip-hammer blows well home, and smashed the structure to fragments. +Fortunately, at the time it was untenanted. + +The workmen, who were on shore waiting to go out to the rock to resume +their toil, were downcast at this unexpected disaster, but the engineer +was not at all ruffled. He promptly sent to Glasgow for further +material, and lost no time in rebuilding the quaint barrack upon new +and stronger lines. This erection defied the waves successfully until +its demolition after the Skerryvore was finished. + +Residence in this tower was eerie. The men climbed the ladder +and entered a small room, which served the purposes of kitchen, +dining-room, and parlour. It was barely 12 feet across--quarters +somewhat cramped for thirty men. When a storm was raging, the waves, +as they combed over the rock, shook the legs violently and scurried +under the floor in seething foam. Now and again a roller, rising higher +than its fellows, broke upon the rock and sent a mass of water against +the flooring to hammer at the door. Above the living-room were the +sleeping-quarters, high and dry, save when a shower of spray fell upon +the roof and walls like heavy hail, and occasionally percolated the +joints of the woodwork. The men, however, were not perturbed. Sleeping, +even under such conditions, was far preferable to doubtful rest in a +bunk upon an attendant vessel, rolling and pitching with the motion of +the sea. They had had a surfeit of such experience during the first +season’s work, while the barrack was under erection. + +[Illustration: BARRA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, SCOTLAND. + +The tower is 60 feet in height, but owing to its position on the +cliffs, the white occulting light is 683 feet above high water, and is +visible 33 miles.] + +[Illustration: + + By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission. + +THE HOMES OF THE KEEPERS OF THE SKERRYVORE AND DHU-HEARTACH LIGHTS. + +On the Island of Tiree, Argyllshire, 10 miles away.] + +Yet the men could not grumble. The engineer responsible for the work +shared their privations and discomforts, for Alan Stevenson clung to +the rock night and day while work was in progress, and he has given a +very vivid impression of life in this quaint home on legs. He relates +how he “spent many a weary day and night--at those times when the +sea prevented anyone going down to the rock--anxiously looking for +supplies from the shore, and earnestly looking for a change of weather +favourable for prosecuting the works. For miles around nothing could be +seen but white foaming breakers, and nothing heard but howling winds +and lashing waves. At such seasons much of our time was spent in bed, +for there alone we had effectual shelter from the winds and spray, +which searched every cranny in the walls of the barrack. Our slumbers, +too, were at times fearfully interrupted by the sudden pouring of the +sea over the roof, the rocking of the house on its pillars, and the +spurting of water through the seams of the doors and windows--symptoms +which, to one suddenly aroused from sound sleep, recalled the appalling +fate of the former barrack, which had been engulfed in the foam not +20 yards from our dwelling, and for a moment seemed to summon us to a +similar fate.” + +The work upon the rock was tedious and exasperating in the extreme. The +gneiss was of maddening hardness and obstinacy--“four times as tough +as Aberdeen granite” was the general opinion. The Atlantic, pounding +the rock continuously through the centuries, had faced it smoother than +could any mason with his tools, yet had not left it sufficiently sound +to receive the foundations. In the external layer, which the masons +laboured strenuously to remove with their puny tools, there were cracks +and crevices here and there. The stubborn rock played havoc with the +finest chisels and drills, and clearing had to be effected for the +most part by the aid of gunpowder. This powerful agent, however, could +only be used sparingly and with extreme skill, so that the rock-face +might not be shivered or shattered too severely. Moreover, the men ran +extreme risks, for the rock splintered like glass, and the flying chips +were capable of doing as much damage, when thus impelled, as a bullet. + +While the foundations were being prepared, and until the barrack was +constructed, the men ran other terrible risks every morning and night +in landing upon and leaving the polished surface of the reef. Five +months during the summer was the working season, but even then many +days and weeks were often lost owing to the swell being too great to +permit the rowing-boat to come alongside. The engineer relates that +the work was “a good lesson in the school of patience,” because the +delays were frequent and galling, while every storm which got up and +expended its rage upon the reef left its mark indelibly among the +engineer’s stock-in-trade. Cranes and other material were swept away as +if they were corks; lashings, no matter how strong, were snapped like +pack-threads. Time after time the tender lying alongside had to weigh +anchor hurriedly, and make a spirited run to its haven at Tyree. + +When the barrack was erected, the situation was eased somewhat, but +then the hours became long. Operations being confined to the summer +months, the average working day was from four in the morning until nine +in the evening--seventeen hours--with intervals for meals; but the men +were not averse to the prolonged daily toil, inasmuch as cessation +brought no welcome relaxations, but rather encouraged broodings over +their isolated position, whereas occupation served to keep the mind +engaged. Twice the men had severe frights during the night. On each +occasion a violent storm sprang up after they had gone to bed, and one +or two ugly breakers, getting their blows home, shook the eyrie with +the force of an earthquake. Every man leaped out of his bunk, and one +or two of the more timid, in their fright, hurried down the ladder and +spent the remaining spell of darkness shivering and quaking on the +completed trunk of the lighthouse, deeming it to be safer than the +crazy-looking structure which served as their home. + +Two years were occupied upon the foundations, the first stone being +laid by the Duke of Argyll on July 7, 1840. This eminent personage +evinced a deep interest in the work and the difficulties which had to +be overcome, and as proprietor of the island of Tyree extended to the +Commissioners free permission to quarry any granite they required from +any part of his estate. + +For a height of some 21 feet from the foundation level the tower is +a solid trunk of masonry. Then come the entrance and water-tanks, +followed by nine floors, comprising successively coal-store, workshop, +storeroom, kitchen, two bedrooms, library, oil-store, and light-room, +the whole occupying a height of 130 feet, crowned by the lantern. +As a specimen of lighthouse engineering, the Skerryvore has become +famous throughout the world. The stones forming the solid courses at +the bottom are attached to one another so firmly and ingeniously as +to secure the maximum of strength and solidity, the result being that +nothing short of an earthquake could overthrow the stalk of masonry. + +The erection of the superstructure was by no means free from danger +and excitement. The working space both on the tower itself and around +the base was severely cramped. The men at the latter point had to +keep a vigilant eye upon those working above, since, despite the most +elaborate precautions, falls of tools and other heavy bodies were +by no means infrequent. Notwithstanding its perilous character, the +undertaking was free from accident and fatality, and, although the men +were compelled by force of circumstances to depend mostly upon salt +foodstuffs, the little colony suffered very slightly from the ravages +of dysentery. + +Probably the worst experience was when the men on the rock were +weather-bound for seven weeks during one season. The weather broke +suddenly. Heavy seas and adverse winds raged so furiously that the +steamboat dared not put out of its haven, but remained there with steam +up, patiently waiting for a lull in the storm, during which they might +succour the unfortunate men on the reef. The latter passed a dreary, +pitiable time. Their provisions sank to a very low level, they ran +short of fuel, their sodden clothing was worn to rags, and, what was +far worse from their point of view, their tobacco became exhausted. +The average working man will tolerate extreme discomfort and privation +so long as the friendship of his pipe remains, but the denial of this +companion comes as the last straw. + +The lantern is of special design, and is one of the most powerful +around the Scottish coasts. It is of the revolving class, reaching its +brightest state once every minute, and may be seen from the deck of a +vessel eighteen miles away Six years were occupied in the completion of +the work, and, as may be imagined, the final touches were welcomed with +thankfulness by all those who had been concerned in the enterprise. The +tower contains 4,308 tons of granite, and the total cost was £86,977, +or $434,885, rendering it one of the costliest in the world. This sum, +however, included the purchase of the steam-vessel which now attends +the lighthouse, and the construction of the little harbour at Hynish. + +The lighthouse-keepers live on the island of Tyree, where are provided +substantial, spacious, single-floor, masonry dwellings with gardens +attached. This is practically a small colony in itself, inasmuch as +the accommodation includes, not only that for the keepers of the +Skerryvore, but for the guardians of the Dhu-Heartach light as well. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE LONELY LIGHTS OF SCOTLAND + + +Barren ruggedness, ragged reefs, and towering cliffs form an apt +description of the north and west coasts of Scotland, and he is a +prudent navigator who acknowledges the respect which these shores +demand, by giving them a wide berth. The Norwegian coast is serrated, +the island of Newfoundland may be likened to the battered edge of a +saw, but Scotland is unique in its formation. The coastline is torn +and tattered by bays and firths, with scattered outlying ramparts. The +captain of a “tramp” who has sailed the seven seas once confessed to me +that no stretch of coastline ever gave him the shivers so badly as the +stretch of shore between Duncansby Head and the Mull of Kintyre. + +Certainly a ship “going north about” is menaced every mile of her way +between these two points unless she takes a very circuitous course. +If the weather conditions are favourable and daylight prevails, the +North of Britain may be rounded through the narrow strait washing the +mainland and the Orkney Islands, but the Pentland Firth is not an +attractive short-cut. The ships that run between Scandinavian ports and +North America naturally follow this route, as it is several hundred +miles shorter than that via the North Sea and English Channel; but they +keep a sharp eye on the weather and are extremely cautious. When the +Pentland Firth is uninviting, they may either choose the path between +the Orkneys and the Shetlands, or, to eliminate every element of risk, +may stand well out to sea, and round the most northern stretches of the +Shetlands. These are lonely seas, comparatively speaking, and yet are +well lighted. Although a wicked rock lies in the centre of the eastern +entrance to the Pentland channel, it is indicated by the Pentland +Skerries light. When the mariner in his wisdom pushes still farther +north, he falls within the glare of the rays thrown from the beacon +near Muckle Flugga. This is the northernmost point of the British +Islands, and it is truly forbidding. The rock lies three-quarters of a +mile off the Shetland Islands, and is a huge fang, sheering to a height +of 196 feet above high-water. On the side facing north it rears up so +abruptly that it appears to lean over, while on the opposite side it is +almost as steep. + +The majority of lighthouses have been called into existence by the +claims of commerce purely and simply. But it was not so with the North +Unst lighthouse, as the beacon crowning this pinnacle is called. War +was responsible for its creation, though probably sooner or later the +requirements of peace would have brought about a similar result. While +the armies of France and Britain were fighting the Russians in the +Crimea, the British fleet was hovering about these waters, watching +the mouth of the Baltic, so as to frustrate any attempts on the part +of the Russian fleet to dash around the northern coast of Scotland. +In those days these lonely seas were badly lighted, and the Admiralty +realized only too well the many perils to which the warships were +exposed while cruising about the pitiless coasts of the Orkneys and +Shetlands. Accordingly, the department called upon the Commissioners of +Northern Lighthouses to mark Muckle Flugga. Time was everything, and +the engineers were urged to bring a temporary light into operation with +the least delay. + +The engineers hurriedly evolved a tower which would meet the Government +needs. It was thought that the extreme height of the rock would lend +itself to the erection of a building which, while possible of early +completion, would be adequate for subsequent purposes. The materials +for the light, together with a lantern, and a second building for the +storage of the oil and other requisites, were shipped northward from +Glasgow. Simultaneously the engineers, with another small gang of +men who had already reached the rock, pushed on with the preliminary +preparations, so that when the constructional vessel arrived erection +might go ahead straightforwardly and rapidly. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE DHU-HEARTACH LIGHTHOUSE. + +To the left is the lower part of the temporary structure in which the +builders lived while erection was in progress.] + +The engineers tried the rock from all sides to find a safe landing. +This was no light matter, owing to the steepness of the slope even upon +the easiest face of the pinnacle. The attempt represented a mild form +of mountaineering, for the sea had battered away the projection of the +lower-lying levels, and the men found it trying to effect a foothold, +even in stepping from the boat on to the rock. They had to climb hand +over hand up the precipice, with life-lines round their waists, taking +advantage of every narrow ledge. With infinite labour they gained the +summit, and then they found that there was just sufficient space, and +no more, upon which to plant the lighthouse buildings. + +The top was cleared quickly, and then the advance party set to work +to improve the landing-place on the south side of the rock for the +reception of the building materials. A small site was prepared with +great difficulty, as the tough rock offered a stern resistance to the +chisels, drills, and wedges; while in addition the men had to cut steps +in the flank of the rock to facilitate the ascent to the site. + +On September 14, 1854, the constructional vessel _Pharos_ hove in +sight, and, the weather being favourable, the landing of the material +was hurried forward. The men had to become pack-animals for the +time, carrying the loads on their backs. In this manner they tramped +laboriously up and down the cliff-face with material and stores of all +descriptions. The heavier and bulkier parts were hauled up by rope and +tackle, a few feet at a time, and this task was quite as exacting. +In all, 120 tons were conveyed to the top of the crag. Construction +was hastened just as feverishly, and on October 11, 1854, twenty-six +days after the _Pharos_ anchored off Muckle Flugga, the North Unst +light shone out for the first time. This is probably one of the most +brilliant exploits that has ever been consummated in connection with +lighthouse engineering, the merit of which is additionally impressive +from the fact that almost everything had to be accomplished by manual +effort. + +While the light was admittedly of a temporary character, the importance +of the outpost had been appreciated, and it was determined to erect a +permanent light upon the rock for the guidance of those who compass +the North of Scotland in order to pass from and to the North Atlantic. +It was decided to commence the permanent masonry building the +following year, and a gang of men volunteered to stay behind on the +rock throughout the winter to complete all the essential preparations +for the foundations. Accommodation was available for this staff in a +substantial iron shelter, in which they made themselves comfortable for +the winter. + +But it is during this season that the winds from the north, lashing +the sea to fury, create huge rollers which thunder upon the base +of the pinnacle to crawl up its perpendicular face in the form of +broken water and spray. The men standing on the brink often watched +these rollers, but never for a moment thought that one would be able +to leap to a height of nearly 200 feet and sweep over the rock. The +December gales dispelled this illusion very convincingly. One morning +the workmen, while breakfasting in their warm shelter, received a +big surprise. A terrific blow struck the door, which flew open as if +hit by a cannon-ball. It was followed instantly by a three-foot wall +of water. The broken wave rushed round the apartment, seething and +foaming, and then out again. The workmen were dumbfounded, but had +scarcely recovered from the shock when another roll of water came +crashing in and gave the apartment another thorough flushing out. One +of the Scottish workmen vouchsafed the remark that the man responsible +for cleaning the floors that day would be spared his job, but he was +silenced when, a few seconds later, another angry sheet of water +dropped on the roof of the building and threatened to smash it in. + +[Illustration: THE NORTH UNST, BRITAIN’S MOST NORTHERLY LIGHT. + +The tower is perched on the top of a precipitous crag, the light being +260 feet above the sea. Despite this height, the waves often dash over +the lantern.] + +The closing month of that year was particularly boisterous. Time after +time when the sea rose, the lighthouse tower was drenched in water. One +might think it impossible that a wave could get up sufficient impetus +to mount a height of 200 feet; but this experience offered conclusive +testimony to the contrary and to the immense power of the waves when +they have an uninterrupted run over several hundred miles of open ocean. + +In a way, the terrifying experience of these marooned workmen was +invaluable. They reported the bare facts to the engineers upon the +first opportunity, and this intelligence brought about a revision in +the designs for the permanent masonry structure. + +The present North Unst lighthouse is a massive masonry building, +standing in the centre of the small flat space on the top of the +pinnacle, with heavy masonry walls bounding it on all sides. The tower +is 64 feet in height, while the red and white light may be seen from a +distance of twenty-one miles in clear weather. That the winter storms +of 1854 were by no means exceptional has been proved up to the hilt on +several occasions since. When the nor’-wester is roused thoroughly, +the breaking waves curl up the cliff and rush over the lantern. Such a +climb of 260 feet conveys a compelling notion of the force of the sea. +The weight of the water thrown into the air has threatened to overthrow +the massive boundary walls, while now and again the invader leaves +tangible evidences of its power by smashing the windows of the lantern. +Upon one occasion it burst open the heavy door, which weighs the best +part of a ton. + +The light-station is served by four keepers, two on duty +simultaneously, their homes being on the island of Unst, four miles +away. For the conveyance of water, fuel, provisions, and other +requirements, from the landing-stage to the lighthouse 200 feet above, +an inclined railway has been provided on the easier slope, so that the +men are no longer called upon to pack their provisions, like mules, +from the water-level up a steep cliff, as was formerly required. + +Rounding these island dangers, the navigator picks up the light of Cape +Wrath, glimmering from a height of 370 feet above the water-level and +standing at the western corner of the rectangular head of the Scottish +mainland. Going south, he has two passages available--the inner, which +extends through the Minches and inside the Hebrides; or the outer, +which lies beyond the latter rampart. In making the outer passage he +comes within range of the light shining from the summit of a lonely +group of rocks standing some twenty-two miles out to sea off the Isle +of Lewis. These are the Flannen Islands, or Seven Hunters, one of many +similar lonely Scottish stations. The tower is mounted upon the crown +of one of the highest points, and the white group-flashing light is +visible over a radius of twenty-four miles. Farther south the seafarer +picks up and drops the Monach Islands light, likewise lying out in the +Atlantic, some ten miles from the nearest land. Finally, rounding Barra +Head, the most southerly point of the reef lying off Barra Island, the +light from which is cast 580 feet above the water owing to the height +of the cliff, the vessel slips into a huge indentation, where isolated +rocks peep above the Atlantic, one of the most dangerous of which is +indicated by the Skerryvore lighthouse. + +I have described the Skerryvore light in the previous chapter; but +nineteen and a half miles to the south-east of the latter is another +reef, just as exposed, which is as perilous in every respect. Indeed, +it may be said to constitute a greater menace to the navigation of +these waters, since it lies in the cross-roads of the entrance to the +Irish Channel, the Firth of the Clyde, and the Minches. A powerful +light mounts guard on the Rhins of Islay, twenty-seven miles due south, +but between the latter and Skerryvore there are forty-three miles of +coast, as dangerous as the mariner could wish to avoid, with this rock +looming up almost halfway. + +This peril is the Dhu-Heartach, lying out to sea in deep water, +fourteen miles from the nearest point of the mainland. The physical +configuration of the sea-bed at this point is somewhat similar to +that prevailing at Skerryvore. The Ross of Mull tumbles abruptly into +the Atlantic, to reappear out to sea in the form of the Torrin Rocks, +which run for a distance of four and a half miles in the direction of +Dhu-Heartach. Then the reef comes to a sudden stop, to be seen once +more, nine miles farther out, in the rounded hump of Dhu-Heartach, +this being practically the outermost point of the ridge. Being so +isolated and projecting so suddenly from deep water, this ledge claimed +many victims among the vessels frequenting these unlighted waters. The +Commissioners of Northern Lighthouses were assailed for not marking the +danger spot in some form or other. The authorities, however, were fully +alive to the need of such protection, but it was not until 1867 that +they were able to proceed with the erection of a lighthouse. + +The situation is peculiar, and the engineers, Messrs. D. and T. +Stevenson, were faced with a somewhat perplexing problem recalling +those which had arisen in conjunction with the Skerryvore, not +far distant. Indeed, the Dhu-Heartach undertaking might very well +be described as a repetition of those struggles, with a few more +difficulties of a different character thrown in. The rock itself in +reality is a series of islets, or hummocks, surrounding the main +hump, which is 240 feet in length by 130 feet in breadth, the highest +point of the rounded top being 35 feet above high-water at ordinary +spring-tides. On all sides the lead marks very deep water, the result +being that in times of storm and tempest the rollers of the Atlantic, +having a “fetch” of some 3,000 miles or more, thunder upon it with +terrific force, the broken water leaping high into the air. It is very +seldom that the rock can be approached even in a small boat and with a +calm sea, as the hump is invariably encircled in a scarf of ugly surf. +The swell strikes the western face of the rock, is divided, flows round +the northern and southern ends of the obstruction, and reunites on +the eastern side. Consequently the rock is nearly always a centre of +disturbance. + +The distance of the rock from the mainland complicated the issue very +materially. A suitable site had to be prepared on shore as a base, +where the stones could be prepared for shipment, while a special +steam-tender was necessary to run to and fro. The handling of the +workmen had to be carried out upon the lines which were adopted at +Skerryvore--namely, the erection of a barrack upon a skeleton framework +on the rock, where the men might be left safely for days or weeks at +a time. The shore station selected was at Earraid, on the neighbouring +island of Mull, because it was the nearest strategical point to the +work, and because ample supplies of first-class granite were available +in the immediate vicinity, the proprietor, the Duke of Argyll, as in +the previous instance, facilitating the work as far as possible. + +The authority to commence operations was given on March 11, 1867, +and this year was devoted to completing preparations, so that in the +following season work might be started in earnest and carried on +throughout the summer at high pressure. The first task was the erection +of the barrack on the rock. The workmen got ashore for the first time +on June 25, 1867, and, although landing at all times was trying and +perilous, attempts often having to be abandoned owing to the swell, +the engineer succeeded in landing twenty-seven times up to September +3, when work had to be suspended until the following year. Despite +the shortness of the season, the men made appreciable headway. The +iron framework of the barrack was completed to the first tier, while +a good beginning was made upon the rock-face in connection with the +foundations for the lighthouse. When the autumnal gales approached, +everything in connection with the barrack was left secure, the builders +being anxious to ascertain how it would weather the winter gales and +the force and weight of the waves which bore down upon it. + +The engineers finally decided upon a tower 107½ feet in height. After +trying various curves for the outline, they came to the decision that a +parabolic frustum would afford the most serviceable design, as well as +providing the maximum of strength. A diameter of 36 feet was chosen for +the base, tapering gradually and gracefully to one of 16 feet at the +top, with the entrance 32 feet above the base, to which point the cone +was to be solid. + +The arrangements were that work should be resumed in the early spring +of 1868, so as to secure full advantage of the favourable easterly +winds. Accordingly, when the special steam-tender arrived on April 14, +she was loaded up with necessaries and men, ready to proceed to the +site directly the wind should veer round to the desired point of the +compass. But with aggravating persistency it clung to the west and +south-west until the end of June, so that many valuable weeks were +unfortunately lost. Time after time, when there was a lull in the +weather, the steamer put out from Earraid, the engineers determined to +make a dash for the rock, and as many times they were foiled, as the +men could not be got through the surf. One day, however, an hour and +a half was snatched on the rock, and, although no work could be done +in that time, yet the interval was sufficient to enable the engineers +to take a look round and to see how their handiwork had withstood the +heavy gales of the previous winter. There was only one marked evidence +of the Atlantic’s wrath. One section of the iron ring connecting the +heads of the legs of the barrack at a height of 30 feet had been +carried away. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE NORTH UNST LIGHT. + +The first light was built in twenty-six days during the Crimean War at +the British Government’s urgent request.] + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +LANDING WATER AT THE NORTH UNST. + +Showing tramway connecting with tower, 200 feet above.] + +On June 29 the wind moderated sufficiently to enable the men to be +landed, but the climatic conditions remained adverse. The wind refused +to swing round to the east; a westerly swell was the luck day after +day. The engineers had to dodge the ocean as best they could, and some +idea of the handicap under which they laboured may be gathered from +the fact that only four landings were made during the sixty-one days +of May and June. July enabled the greatest number of landings to be +effected--thirteen; while during August and September the men only +gained the rock on twenty-one occasions, making a total of thirty-eight +landings in the course of 153 days. + +During this interrupted season, however, the barrack was completed. +It was a massive structure, and resembled a huge iron barrel secured +endwise upon an intricate arrangement of stilts which were heavily +stayed and tied together by diagonals and cross-members. In the two +previous instances where a similar arrangement had been adopted the +temporary dwelling had been wrought in wood, but on this occasion +the engineers decided to adopt iron, as they concluded that a wooden +structure would not fare well against the heavy seas. This was +a fortunate decision, because, as subsequent experience proved, a +wooden barrack would have received very short shrift from the Atlantic +breakers; in fact, probably it would have gone down with the first +sou’-wester. The iron barrack, as the workmen narrated, was pounded and +battered by the waves most unmercifully; but although it suffered at +times, quivering and shaking under the terrific impacts, it weathered +all the onslaughts. + +One interesting incident serves to illustrate the perils to which the +workmen were exposed. A date had been set down when all the men were to +be brought off the rock for the season, as the approach of the equinox +rendered further toil extremely doubtful, and there was no intention of +unduly imperilling them. The engineer’s resident representative, Mr. +Alexander Brebner, went out to the rock on August 20, the day fixed for +the suspension of operations, to inspect the progress that had been +made and to have a last look round. At the time of his arrival the +weather was beautifully calm, and held out every promise of remaining +settled for several days. As the season had been so adverse, he +decided, on his own responsibility, to delay the cessation of toil, so, +with the thirteen men, he remained on the rock, determined to make up +leeway somewhat while the weather held out. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE FLANNEN ISLANDS LIGHT STATION. + +One of Scotland’s lonely beacons. It marks a group of islets 15 miles +off the Hebrides. In 1900 the three keepers mysteriously disappeared, +and their fate remains unsolved to this day.] + +But the resident paid the penalty for his disobedience. The little +party retired that night with the stars shining brilliantly overhead +from a cloudless sky, and with the sea like a mirror. In the middle +of the night one and all were roused suddenly from their slumbers. +The wind was roaring, and the breakers were hammering upon the +rock, while the foam and surf rushed violently between the legs of +the barracks. When the men looked out they were confronted with a +terrifying spectacle. The night was black as pitch, but the sea white +as a snow-covered plain, from the crests of the rollers and the surf +playing on and around the rocks. A furious gale had sprung up with the +characteristic suddenness of the Atlantic, and was already raging. The +next morning no one dared to venture outside the iron home, while the +gale, instead of abating, appeared to be increasing in fury. For five +days the men were held fast, and at times their fears got the better of +them. This was particularly the case when, now and again, a more than +ugly wave got up, rolled over the rock, and crashed with full force +against the barrack. The building shook and trembled fearfully, but +its legs were driven too deeply into the rock for it to be overturned, +while the cross-bracing was too intricate for the legs to be snapped +off. Again and again the men were plunged into darkness, as a wall of +water rushed right over the drum, notwithstanding that the roof was 77 +feet above high-water. + +Their fears rose almost to frenzy when a breaker, leaping the rock, +drove full tilt against the floor of the barrack. In this upward rush +of 55 feet the building suffered. The men’s entrance to the home was +by means of a heavy hatch, or trapdoor, which was bolted securely upon +the inside. This particular comber burst in the hatch as if it were no +thicker than the wood of a matchbox, flooding the whole compartment. + +Meantime the engineer-in-chief at Edinburgh had heard of the incident. +He had given strict instructions that the men should be brought off on +August 20, and when the intelligence was communicated to him that his +order had been disobeyed, and that his men were in serious straits, +he became distracted. He knew only too well how the waves bombard +Dhu-Heartach. Mr. David Stevenson related to me how his father paced +the offices during the day, and his own home at night, unable to drown +his thoughts in work or sleep. His worry was intensified as the true +character of the gale came to his ears. He had planned everything +with such care that neither life nor limb of a single workman need +be jeopardized, and here he was confronted with the possibility of +losing fourteen men at one stroke! The iron barrack, although staunchly +constructed, was just as likely as not to succumb to the full brunt of +a very vicious sou’-wester, so there was every excuse for his anxiety. +He gave orders that the steam-tender was to stand by with steam raised, +so as to make a dash for the rock upon the first opportunity. No one +had a moment’s peace until at last the news came through that the +steam-tender had been out to the rock, and with much difficulty had +got hold of the fourteen men and brought them ashore, somewhat scared +and bearing evidences of their experience, but unharmed. Mr. Stevenson +told me that he could not quite say which was worse--the distracted +wanderings of his father, or the expression of his pent-up feelings +when he met the unfortunate resident a few days later, who was taken +severely to task for his flagrant breach of orders, whereby the lives +of the workmen had been imperilled so unnecessarily. + +The year 1869 was kinder to the engineers, and great headway was made. +The men were able to make their first landing on the rock as early +as March 25, and it was accessible up to October 29, when all forces +withdrew from the scene for the winter. During this period sixty +landings were effected, while heavy supplies of masonry and other +materials were shipped to the site. The masons took up their permanent +residence in the barrack on April 26, and did not leave it until +September 3, while they were able to squeeze in 113 days of toil, with +a welcome rest from their labours on Sundays. The excavations for the +foundations were completed speedily, and on June 24 the erection of +the tower was commenced. The stones were brought ready for setting in +position, and were laid so rapidly that by the end of the month two +courses were completed and the third had been well advanced. Then came +a temporary setback. A blusterous summer gale sprang up, and the sea, +after assaulting the rock for two days, succeeded in leaving its mark. +The crane and other tackle at the landing-stage were washed away, while +fourteen stones laid in the third course were uprooted, of which eleven +were seen no more. The water in this case had to leap upwards for 35½ +feet, while the stones which it carried away weighed 2 tons apiece, and +were firmly joggled, so that the wrench which displaced them must have +been terrific indeed. + +If a summer gale could wreak such damage, what was the dreaded equinox +likely to achieve? The engineers were so much impressed that they +thereupon made assurance doubly sure by effecting a modification of the +original plans. When the work was commenced, it was intended to take +the solid part of the tower up to a height of 52 feet 10 inches above +high-water. The effects of this summer gale induced them to continue +the solid section a further 11½ feet, so that the entrance level is 64 +feet 4 inches above high-water mark. The result is that the solid base +of the Dhu-Heartach tower weighs no less than 1,840 tons--more than +one-half the total weight of the structure--and is executed throughout +in massive blocks of grey granite. + +The tower contains six floors above the entrance hall, these, on +ascending the spiral staircase, being as follows: oil-store, kitchen, +provision-store, bedroom, dry-room, and light-room. The masonry part +of the work was completed by the end of the season of 1871, and the +first-order dioptric, fixed, white light was exhibited on November +1, 1872. The focal plane, being 145 feet above the water-level, has +a range of eighteen nautical miles. The total cost of the work was +£76,084, or $380,420, of which sum the shore station was responsible +for £10,300, or $51,500. + +The ocean made an attempt to defeat the workmanship and skill of the +engineers in the very winter following the opening of the lighthouse. +On the lee side of the tower there is a copper lightning-conductor, 1 +inch thick by 1½ inches wide, which is let into a channel cut in the +stonework, so that it comes flush with the face of the building. This +conductor is fixed at intervals of 5 feet in a substantial manner. The +winter storms of 1872 tore some 10 feet out of this channel near the +base of the structure, and wrenched the screws from their sockets; +while at the kitchen window level, which is 92 feet above high-water, +the rod was similarly disturbed for some distance. It will be seen that +the waves which assail Dhu-Heartach are by no means to be despised. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE FASTNET, THE OUTPOST OF EUROPE + + +Four and a half miles out to sea, separated from Cape Clear, the most +south-westerly point of Ireland, by a treacherous channel, rises the +jagged, formidable shape of the Fastnet. To mariners the rock, with its +brilliant shaft of light by night, has developed into more than a mere +beacon. It is the first and last light of the Old World on the eastward +and westward passages across the Atlantic. All passing vessels are +“spoken” from this point to London, New York, and elsewhere. + +It was in the early fifties of the past century that the engineer +conceived the idea of planting a light upon this lonely crag. Maritime +interests had agitated for a beacon for many years previously, since, +although a warning gleam was thrown from the station on Cape Clear, +this ray often was invisible, or partially obscured, owing to the +wreaths of cloud and mist which draped the summit of the headland. +The builder was Mr. George Halpin, engineer to the Port of Dublin +Corporation, which was responsible at that time for the illumination of +the shores of Ireland. + +His task was not to be despised. The Fastnet itself is merely a +pinnacle, rising precipitously to a height of about 100 feet above +low-water, but it is the centre of many dangers. It is flanked on all +sides by needle-points and ridges; the currents run strongly, and the +tides are wicked, rendering approach uncertain even in the smoothest +weather. + +The indefatigable engineer attacked his task boldly. He chose the +highest point of the rock as the site for his tower, which was a +cast-iron cylindrical building, 91 feet in height. The lantern was +equipped with a revolving apparatus which threw a flash of 38,000 +candle-power for fifteen seconds once every two minutes from an +elevation of 148 feet, rotation being obtained through a belt and a +weight-driven clock. Its erection was a tedious undertaking; although +a start was made in 1848, it was not until January 1, 1854, that the +light first cast its welcome rays over the wastes of the Atlantic, by +which time £20,000, or $100,000, had been spent upon the undertaking. + +[Illustration: + + _From the “Scientific American.”_ + +BUILDING THE FASTNET ROCK LIGHTHOUSE. + +Looking down from the top of the rock upon the men setting one of the +solid masonry courses.] + +For ten years Halpin’s work successfully defied the elements, although +at times the keepers grew somewhat apprehensive concerning its +stability. Time after time, during heavy gales, it seemed as if it +must succumb to the storm. The waves curled up the cliff and struck +the tower with staggering force, causing it to tremble like a leaf. +On one occasion a cup of coffee standing upon the table was thrown to +the floor. While the shaft defied the most severe poundings, the cliff +itself gave way, and large masses of rock on which the tower stood were +carried away. One huge chunk, weighing some 3 tons, was detached, and, +as it slipped down, was picked up by the next incoming wave, to be +hurled with terrific force against the tower, but without inflicting +any marked damage. On another occasion a cask containing 60 gallons +of fresh water, which the keepers had made fast to the railing of the +gallery surrounding the lantern, 133 feet above the water, was wrenched +free by a wave which dashed over the rock, and was swept away as if it +were an empty tin. The keepers’ anxiety under these circumstances may +be understood. + +At last, in April, 1865, the consulting engineer to the Corporation +visited the lighthouse in company with Mr. George Stevenson, the famous +Scottish lighthouse builder, to examine the rock thoroughly. The latter +suggested certain recommendations to insure the stability of the tower; +but when the sanction of the Brethren of Trinity House was sought, they +deferred a decision until their own engineer had visited the works, +although they appreciated Mr. Stevenson’s advice. + +Some of the recommendations advanced by Mr. Stevenson were followed +subsequently, and this reluctant recognition of his knowledge +brought its reward. The authorities--now the Commissioners of Irish +Lights--had a fright in 1881. The storms of that winter were among +the heaviest that have ever assailed the British Islands. The Calf +Rock light, which was a similar tower to the Fastnet, and which had +been strengthened upon identical lines, came to grief. The tower was +broken off at the point where the reinforcement ceased. This disaster +naturally aroused many misgivings concerning the luck of the Fastnet. +Had it shared a similar fate during the same gale? To their intense +relief, the Commissioners found that it had issued from the conflict +with no more injuries than a few broken panes of glass. + +The tower withstood the attacks of wind and wave successfully until +1891, when the Commissioners came to the conclusion that it was time +the Fastnet light was improved, to meet the requirements of the +busier mercantile traffic passing the point. Accordingly, Mr. William +Douglass, the engineer to the Commissioners, recommended a new tower, +fitted with the latest form of illumination, so as to bring it into +line with the other leading lights of the world. He advocated a tower +of masonry with the focal plane at an elevation of 159 feet; the shaft, +147 feet high, springing from a position 6 inches below high-water, +with a diameter at the base of 42 feet. The cost of the light was +estimated at £70,000 or $350,000. + +One cannot help admiring the daring of the engineer, since he declined +to be assisted by the rock summit in his purpose. Instead he preferred +the ledge of a chasm on the hardest part of the rock below high-tide, +and directly exposed to the full force of the sea. He maintained that +such a tower, planted on this shelf, would receive the force of the +heaviest seas before they rose to their full height; also by building +the base of the tower in the form of steps, as in the case of a +breakwater, an excellent buffer would be offered to the rollers. + +[Illustration: BUILDING THE FASTNET TOWER. + +Showing derrick for setting the stones into position.] + +[Illustration: + + _The “Scientific American.”_ + +ERECTING THE FASTNET LANTERN. + +This illustration gives a striking idea of its height.] + +The new design came at an opportune moment. Another inspection of the +existing tower by Mr. C. W. Scott, the present engineer-in-chief +to the Commissioners, revealed a parlous state of affairs. Halpin’s +building was on the verge of collapse. Many of the plates in the upper +stories had worked loose under the poundings inflicted by the seas, and +in many instances the bolts holding the fabric together were sheared. +Repairs had to be made hastily to enable the old tower to hold out +until the new lighthouse was erected. + +Before the work was commenced, the designer, as a result of further +investigation, decided to increase the diameter of his tower to 52 feet +at the base. The lowest courses did not comprise complete rings of +masonry, but were anchored at the points where the circle was broken +into the face of the cliff, so as to form an integral part thereof, +as it were. The depth of this partial ringwork is 26 feet, at which +level the first complete ring of masonry was laid. Thenceforward the +tower is solid throughout its thickness for a further height of 30 +feet, except for a central circular space forming the water-tank, which +holds 3,250 gallons of water. From this point the masonry structure +rises gracefully to a height of 88-1/8 feet to the lantern gallery. The +lighthouse is divided into eight floors, affording living-rooms for the +keepers, storerooms for oil, fog-signals, provisions, coal, etc. + +The lighthouse, the landing-stage, and other appurtenances, are +executed in Cornish granite throughout. The blocks were fashioned from +picked stone of fine, close, hard grain, and ranged up to 4 and 5 tons +in weight. The method of construction followed the approved lines of +to-day, in which each stone is dovetailed into its neighbour, above, +below, and on either side. As the stones were cut and fitted in the +Cornish quarries, they were set up and fitted course by course. Then, +when they had met the approbation of the engineer deputed for this +duty, they were numbered and given other identification marks, so that +upon reaching the base at Rock Island, upon the Irish mainland, within +easy reach of the Fastnet, they could be despatched in rotation to the +site, to be set in position. + +It was in August, 1896, that the first little squad of labourers +landed on the Fastnet, under the superintendence of James Kavanagh, +a first-class all-round mason--one of those men who occupy a unique +position when emergency calls. He was just the type of foreman that the +task demanded, careful, daring, a hard worker, zealous, dauntless. Once +he had landed on the rock to prepare the foundations, he seldom left +it; and, what is more, every stone constituting the tower was well and +truly laid by his own hand. It was indeed unfortunate that Kavanagh, +after his momentous round of toil was over, should be stricken down +with apoplexy, to which he succumbed, after virtually years of +imprisonment upon an ill-famed rock, facing discomforts and privations +of all descriptions, and seizing every opportunity to drive the task +forward. It was as if Nature, baffled in her efforts to circumvent +the work of human ingenuity, had taken revenge upon the man who had +laboured mightily to complete her subjection. + +Kavanagh took with him upon the rock a small boiler and steam-winch, +which he set up without delay, to land both workmen and necessaries. +He lost no time in cutting away at the toe of the cliff, to admit the +first partial ring of stones. It was a ding-dong battle between the +masons and the sea for the first few rounds. The men toiled heroically +with their chisels between the coming of the rollers, with one eye +on the water and the other on a handy life-line, which they grabbed +when the Atlantic endeavoured to steal a march upon them. On some +days splendid progress was made; on others the masons never drove the +chisels once into the rock-face. + +Landing was an exciting experience in itself. The tender, naturally, +could not draw right in, owing to the swell and other dangers. She +stood off a little way, and there anchored. When men were coming to or +going from the rock, the rope was run out from the derrick. To this +was attached a kind of double stirrup, not unlike a child’s swing. The +men took up their position, two at a time, on these stirrups, standing +face to face. At the command, “Lower away!” or “Heave ho!” the derrick +winch commenced to grunt and rattle, and the men were whisked into +mid-air, clutching tightly to their frail, cramped hold, and steadied +in their aerial journey by another rope extending to the rowing-boat +below. It was an exciting trip while it lasted, and at first glimpse +appeared to be dangerous, so much so that on one or two occasions the +courage of raw hands broke down at the last moment, and they hesitated +to trust themselves to such a flimsy-looking vehicle. + +Bringing the stones ashore was even more difficult. It was imperative +that the edges and corners of the blocks should be protected from +blows which might chip and scar them, thereby impairing their true +fit, and possibly allowing the sea to get a purchase in its efforts +to destroy. Accordingly, the blocks were packed in skeleton crates, +with substantial wooden battens completely protecting the vital parts. +It was impossible to swing them singly direct through the air from +steamer to rock, and it was inadvisable to transfer them first to a +rowing-boat; so an ingenious alternative method was perfected. The +tender was brought as near the rock as possible, and the derrick boom +was swung out, so that a hook carried at the end of the rope could be +attached to the stone, which rested on rollers upon the tender’s deck +leading to an open doorway in the taffrail. When the rope was secured, +the word was given to haul in the derrick rope slowly and gently. This +brought the stone gradually to the vessel’s side, when it was permitted +to fall into the water where it could suffer no injury. The derrick +rope meanwhile was wound in, and the stone, still submerged, at last +brought to rest against the side of the tower. + +A vertical series of wooden battens had been attached to the outside of +the building, so as to form a slide up which the blocks could be hauled +to the required level. Of course, as the tower increased in height, the +latter part of the operation had to be varied, owing to the concave +curve of the structure. Then the stone had to complete its final stage +through the air, being steadied in its ascent by a rope held below to +prevent it swinging and coming to grief against the completed part of +the shaft. In this manner 2,074 stones, representing a dead-weight of +4,633 tons, were landed and set in position. + +Work was painfully slow and tedious at times, owing to adverse weather. +Although the men on the rock were condemned inevitably to periods of +idleness, they were made as comfortable as conditions would permit, so +as to remove any longing on their part to return to the mainland for a +change. This was a necessary precaution. Although the men might leave +the rock in perfectly calm weather, the Atlantic is so fickle that +an interval of two or three hours was quite sufficient to permit the +wind to freshen, and the swell to grow restive, to such a degree as to +render a return to the rock impossible for several days. Owing to the +cramped nature of the quarters on the rock, elaborate care had to be +exercised to protect the men from the ravages of disease. The toilers +had to board themselves, and the authorities demanded that each man +should maintain a fortnight’s reserve supply of provisions upon the +rock to tide him over a spell of bad weather. This rule was enforced +very rigidly, any infringement of it being attended with instant +dismissal. For emergency purposes the Commissioners maintained a small +stock of salt beef, pork, tinned meats, tea, sugar, milk, biscuits, +and so forth, on the rock, from which the men could replenish their +larders. The foreman acted as a kind of medical officer of health, as +well as fulfilling his other duties. He was supplied with a ship’s +medicine-chest, plenty of bandages, liniment, and antiseptics, in case +of accident. At five o’clock every morning the men were compelled to +tumble out of their bunks, to indulge in a thorough wash, to turn their +bedding into the air when the weather was agreeable, and to wash out +their quarters. The strictest supervision was maintained over matters +pertaining to sanitation, and, thanks to these elaborate precautions, +cases of sickness were very few. + +Extreme care was observed in the building operations, so that no +workman might be exposed to any unnecessary risks, although the task +at times bristled with unavoidable perils. As a matter of fact, the +whole enterprise was attended by only three accidents on the rock. One +man was cutting a tram-rail, when a piece of steel flew into one eye, +completely blinding it. Another suffered a similar calamity from a chip +of stone while quarrying. The third man met misfortune while at work +at the windlass of the derrick. As a breaker rolled in, his companion +dropped his handle, with the result that the other workman was knocked +down and had one leg broken. There was a true Hibernian flavour about +this last-named accident, in keeping with the setting in which it +occurred. The man was incapacitated for some months, and then brought +an action for compensation, claiming that he had been rendered unfit +for any further manual labour. The sympathetic court solaced him with +an award of £350, or $1,750. The amazement and disgust of the engineer +may be imagined when, three months after the action, he suddenly +espied the supposedly totally incapacitated workman assisting in the +transference of coal from a barge to the tender! + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of the “Scientific American.”_ + +THE FASTNET, THE OUTPOST OF EUROPE. + +On the top of the rock is the first light, opened in 1854. At the side +is the present noble tower, completed in 1906. The flashing beam of +750,000 candle-power has a range of 20 miles.] + +As the tower grew above the existing building, which it was to exceed +in height, it obscured the light thrown from the latter in a certain +direction. At this juncture, accordingly, a temporary scaffolding was +erected upon the summit of the new shaft, on which were rigged two +ordinary lightship lights, and these were kept going until the new +lantern was completed. The last stone was set on June 3, 1903, after +some four years’ labour. + +During the winter everything was brought virtually to a standstill, +owing to the succession of gales, but the men on the rock never +missed an opportunity to advance the undertaking. Kavanagh, the +foreman, absolutely refused to go ashore so long as any work could be +completed. Often he remained on the Fastnet the whole year round, and +never was away for more than two months in the year, when work was +impossible. Other workmen, when they had lived down the first feelings +of loneliness, became imbued with the same spirit, and appeared loth +to forsake the scene of their labours even for a day or two. When +the men settled down to their toil, it was very seldom that a wish was +expressed to be taken ashore more than once in three months. + +The lantern was undertaken directly the stonework was completed. The +landing of this apparatus was an exciting task, for, the season being +advanced, it was decided to run unusual risks, lest the rock should +become unapproachable. It was accomplished successfully, and the +various parts were stored on the rock in what was considered a safe +place. The weather looked fine and gave no signs of breaking; yet two +hours after all had been inspected and secured for the night a terrific +gale sprang up, and the rock was enveloped in water, which dashed right +over it. The waves caught some of the lantern apparatus and smashed +it; other parts were carried away and never seen again. This was an +unexpected catastrophe. The remaining damaged parts of the apparatus +were sent back to Birmingham to be overhauled and the missing portions +replaced. + +As there was no possibility of being able to complete the lantern that +winter, and the authorities did not like to entrust the marking of +the rock solely to the temporary lightship lights--the lantern of the +Halpin tower had been taken down meanwhile--it was thereupon decided to +erect the dismantled old lamp in the new tower for the time being. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. Chance Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +THE LANTERN OF THE FASTNET ROCK LIGHTHOUSE. + +It consists of two tiers each of four panels of 920 millimetres focal +distance.] + +The next summer the new apparatus was got on to the rock and erected +safely. The light is of the dioptric type, derived from a series of +incandescent burners, giving a total power of 1,200 candles. This part +of the installation is the invention of the chief engineer to the +Commissioners, Mr. C. W. Scott, and it has proved to be one of the most +perfect and economical devices of this type yet submitted to practical +operations. The oil is vaporized by being passed through a spraying +device under pressure, similar to the forced carburation in automobile +practice, and the gas is fed to the Bunsen burners. The lenses, +together with their revolving apparatus, weigh 13,440 pounds, and +rotate upon a bed of mercury under the fall of a weight of 290 pounds, +which descends 40 feet per hour, this being sufficient to secure +three complete revolutions per minute. In case the incandescent gas +installation should break down from any cause, a four-wick oil-burner +is held in reserve, and can be brought into action instantly. The +power of the rays thrown from the 1,200 candle-power burners is +intensified by the lenses to some 750,000 candle-power, of extremely +white brilliancy, recalling the beam thrown by an electric searchlight. +The flash, of three-twenty-fifths of a second’s duration, recurs every +five seconds, and on a clear night the light is readily distinguishable +from a distance of twenty miles, while its reflection in the sky may be +observed from a considerably greater distance. + +The erection of this lighthouse was not without one humorous incident. +While the lantern apparatus was being set in position, a plumber was +sent to the rock. He spent one day and night there, a period that +proved to be more than enough for him. The murmuring of the waves lost +all their musical glamour for him when he was imprisoned on a wild, +isolated, wind-and-wave-swept eyrie. He did not get a wink of sleep, +and was scared nearly out of his wits. When morning broke, and the +men were turned out of their bunks, the plumber expressed his fixed +determination to return to the shore at once. His companions laughed at +his fears, ridiculed his anxieties, coaxed and upbraided him in turn. +It was of no avail. He would not do another stroke of work. Realizing +the hopelessness of such a workman, the engineer in charge signalled +the mainland for assistance. The steamer could not put out, but the +lifeboat, not understanding the import of such an unusual call, made +the dangerous pull to the rock, to ascertain what was the matter. When +they found that it was to take off a scared workman, their feelings +may be imagined. The demoralized plumber was bundled into the lifeboat +and rowed back to shore. The blood did not return to his face, nor did +he collect his scattered wits, until he planted his two feet firmly on +the mainland, when he very vehemently and picturesquely expressed his +determination never to accept a job in such a forsaken place again. + +The old tower was reduced to the level of its solid base, and converted +into an oil-store. The finishing touches were applied to the new +tower, and on June 27, 1906, the scintillating and penetrating ray of +the present Fastnet was shown for the first time. It is a magnificent +light, and, being the latest expression of British lighthouse +engineering upon a large scale, compels more than passing interest. +The light is fully in keeping with the importance of the spot it +marks, and the £84,000, or $420,000, which it cost has been laid out +to excellent purpose. The light and fog-signal station is tended by +six keepers, four being on the rock simultaneously, and two ashore. +The latter constitute the relief, which is made twice a month if the +weather permits, the service being one month on the rock, followed by +a fortnight on shore. One keeper has day duty, maintaining a lookout +for fog and to signal passing ships; two are on duty at night, the one +having charge of the light and its operation, while his comrade devotes +his attention to signalling ships and watching the weather. When a mist +creeps over the light, the fourth keeper is called up to manipulate +the explosive fog-signal. The lighthouse, being an important landfall, +is a signalling-station for Lloyd’s, and is also fitted with wireless +telegraphy, wherewith the movements of outgoing and incoming vessels +are reported to the mainland for notification to all parts of the +world. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +LIGHTHOUSES BUILT ON SAND + + +While the greater number of the most famous sea-lights have been +erected upon the solid foundation offered by rock, in one or two +instances notable works have been consummated upon sand. The two most +remarkable achievements in this particular field of enterprise are the +Rothersand lighthouse, off the coast of Germany, in the North Sea, and +the Fourteen Foot Bank, in Delaware Bay, U.S.A. + +The Rothersand light became necessary owing to the expansion of the +German mercantile marine and the development of the ports of the +Weser and Elbe. The estuary of the Weser River is hemmed in by shoals +and sandbanks, similar to those found at the entrance to Liverpool, +London, and New York, rendering navigation extremely hazardous under +the most favourable circumstances. Bremerhaven, on the Weser, had been +selected as the home port for the North German Lloyd Atlantic liners, +but it was threatened with abandonment unless the entrance to the +waterway should undergo improvement. It was of no avail to dredge a +deep channel through the treacherous ridges of sand, if the general +proximity of the shoal were left unmarked. Consequently, in order to +secure the interests of Bremerhaven, it was decided by the three border +States--Prussia, Oldenburg, and Bremen--to provide a powerful light at +this danger-point. The financial problem was solved by the agreement to +levy a special tax upon all vessels entering the Weser, to defray the +cost of providing the safeguard. + +The undertaking was somewhat formidable. The shoal, being of soft +sand, was liable to erosion and movement, owing to fluctuating and +changing currents. Then, again, the proposed site, some thirty miles +from Bremerhaven and about halfway between that port and the island +of Heligoland, was exposed to the assaults of the North Sea, where +even slight breezes ruffle the water considerably. From the soundings +and observations that were made, it was evident that the foundations +would have to be carried down to a great depth, and that ordinary +systems of construction were quite impracticable. At this juncture the +Society Harkort of Duisburg, which had accumulated great experience in +subaqueous work, was approached and asked if it would undertake the +enterprise at its own risk. This was tantamount to a “no cure, no pay” +proposal. If they succeeded, they would be rewarded for their labours; +if they failed, they would have to face a heavy loss. + +This firm, after careful deliberation, allowed that the work could +be accomplished, but in one way only. This was to construct a huge +caisson--practically a gigantic barrel of steel--on shore, to launch +and tow it to the site, and there to lower it until it rested on the +bottom. Then, by a removal of the sand from beneath this caisson, it +could be sunk to a great depth, and, the interior being filled with +concrete, a huge artificial core of rock would be created, capable of +supporting a tower. This system is employed extensively in connection +with bridge-building operations, and the firm entertained no doubts +concerning its feasibility at Rothersand. The society accordingly +prepared its designs, and advanced an estimate for the cost of the work. + +At this juncture an unexpected competitor appeared on the scene. One of +the engineers engaged in the preparation of the Harkort designs severed +his connection with that firm, and, securing the collaboration of two +engineering colleagues, established a rival concern, which tendered for +the contract. They would follow the same lines, but would complete it +for £22,750, or $113,750, instead of £24,025, or $120,125, asked by the +Duisburg firm. The lower price was accepted, the more readily since it +included the foundations, whereas the Society Harkort set these down as +an extra. Naturally, the society was somewhat chagrined at this turn of +events, after all the trouble and care it had taken to discover the +most satisfactory solution of the problem, but subsequently it had good +reason not to regret its loss. + +The new engineers set to work and during the winter of 1880-81 +constructed a huge caisson, which was launched and on May 22 of the +latter year started down the Weser in charge of tugs. Then came a whole +string of accidents. One night the unwieldy fabric got adrift and +drove its nose into a sandbank, where it settled down with the tide. +The towing cables were attached once more, and after a great struggle +the structure was extricated on the next high-tide, and resumed its +journey. Reaching the site without further incident, it was lowered by +admitting the water within the barrel. But this task being accomplished +somewhat crudely, the water rushed in with such force that the caisson +commenced to spin round like a top, as well as bobbing up and down +like an angler’s float. It threatened to topple over and founder every +moment, but, luckily keeping upright, finally touched bottom. Lowering +was completed. Night having approached, workmen made themselves +comfortable on the caisson, while the constructional steamer stood off +and cast its anchor. + +The men on the caisson, however, experienced one of the most +sensational nights in their lives. As the tide rose, they found their +novel home to be behaving somewhat curiously. It moved, and then heeled +over. This was an alarming state of affairs, especially as the list +gradually became worse and worse. They shouted frantically for help, +but, a heavy fog having descended upon the shoal, their cries were +absorbed by the white pall. At last the caisson careened over to such +a degree that the men could not keep their feet, while the depressed +edge was in danger of being submerged. The men crawled to the opposite +or elevated side, and held on for their lives, expecting every moment +that the structure would give a heave and roll over. It was a terribly +anxious time for them, and at last, when the constructional steamer +came alongside in the morning, they scuttled down the ropes from their +perilous perch to the deck below, thankful for having escaped, as they +thought, a certain watery grave. + +The engineers spared no effort to save their work. They were harassed +at every tide because the water rose above the depressed edge and +flooded the interior. With all speed the wall at this point was +increased in height, so as to prevent inundation. Then, stormy weather +having cut away the sand under the elevated side, the structure +gradually righted itself. When it had regained its vertical position, +it was found that no serious damage had been done, but rather that the +engineers had profited, inasmuch as the caisson had buried itself some +16 feet into the sand. + +Winter was approaching, and so the engineers crowded on every man and +effort possible, in order to get the structure sunk to the requisite +level before work would have to be abandoned for the season. They +departed from the engineer’s axiom, “Make haste slowly,” and paid the +penalty. When the bad weather broke, compelling the return of all the +workmen to shore, the fabric was left insecure. The lower part had been +given its filling of concrete, but above a certain level the fabric +depended only upon the iron shell of the cylinder. It was stiffened +as much as possible with cross-timbers and bracing, but the elements +soon made short work of this puny defence. The North Sea, in common +with the other large stretches of water throughout the world, was +swept by terrible storms that winter, and one morning, when the sea +was scanned from shore through glasses, strange to say the caisson was +nowhere to be seen. All sorts of rumours were circulated to account +for its disappearance, among others being a sensational theory that +the caisson, having reached swampy ground while being sunk, had simply +dropped suddenly into the submarine quagmire, and had been swallowed +up completely. But the divers, when they could get out to the site and +could venture into the ocean depths, returned to the surface with a +very different story. The waves had snapped off the top of the caisson +at the upper level of the concrete within, and had carried it away. +Thus ended summarily the first attempt to build a lighthouse upon the +red sand at the entrance to the River Weser. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of the North German Lloyd S.S. Co._ + +THE ROTHERSAND LIGHTHOUSE. + +This magnificent light marks a dangerous shoal in the estuary of the +Weser. The masonry tower is built upon a massive concrete caisson +driven deeply into the sand.] + +The project, however, was not abandoned. The Society Harkort was +approached once more, and requested to undertake the work upon its +own terms. The invitation was accepted, but the firm, realizing the +abnormal risks incidental to the enterprise, revised their price, so +as to provide for contingencies. It demanded a sum of £42,650, or +$213,250, in return for which it undertook to supply a fully-equipped +lighthouse less the illuminating apparatus. The terms were accepted, +but the responsible authorities, having suffered a heavy loss from +the first failure, decided to protect themselves against a similar +disaster, so exacted a bond for £12,000, or $60,000, to be returned +when the work should be completed and accepted by the Government. The +Society Harkort, on its part, reserved the right to withdraw from the +undertaking in the event of the caisson sharing the fate which overtook +the first structure. + +The contracts were signed in September, 1882, and the task was +commenced. The first disaster was a blessing in disguise, for the new +engineers were able to turn the mistakes of their predecessors to +advantage. They designed a caisson of oval shape, with pointed ends, +measuring 46 feet in length by 36 feet wide. It was an elaborate, +staunch structure, towering to a height of 60¾ feet when launched. At +a height of 8 feet from the bottom edge was a massive flooring built +of iron. The space below constituted the area in which the men were to +work upon the sea-bed, excavating the sand under compressed air, while +the lower rim was a cutting edge, so as to facilitate the sinking of +the mass as the sand was removed. The upper part of the caisson was +divided into four floors, each of which was set aside for a specific +purpose. The lowest was the concrete-mixing chamber; that above carried +the machinery and boilers; the third floor formed the living-quarters +for the men who worked and slept on the structure; while the top floor +formed a deck, and carried two powerful cranes whereby the material +was lifted from the boats which drew alongside. Of course, when the +caisson had been lowered into the water and was eating its way deeper +and deeper into the sand, these platforms had to be moved higher and +higher from time to time, as the base of the tun became filled with +concrete, the outer walls of the fabric being increased to keep the top +well above high-water mark. + +When the caisson was completed on shore and sent into the water, it +was an impressive-looking monster. The shell itself weighed 245½ tons, +and with the various accessories aboard the weight was brought up to +some 335 tons. It then had to be loaded down to the required depth for +towing, for which purpose ballast in the form of pig-iron, concrete, +and bricks, to the extent of another 245 tons, was stowed aboard, while +delicate precautions were taken to maintain stability. The combined +efforts of 120 men, working day and night for 127 days, were required +to erect this caisson, and on April 1, 1883, it was ready for its +transportation to the site. + +The towing operation was extremely difficult, and the voyage out was +full of exciting incident. It was possible to advance only on the +ebb-tide, and the towing cables, 5 inches in diameter, were specially +manufactured for the operation. Two of the most powerful tugs owned +by the North German Lloyd Steamship Company were requisitioned, three +other steamers engaged in the conveyance of requirements between tower +and shore accompanying the procession. Although the engineers were +ready, the weather, with aggravating persistence, refused to clear +sufficiently to produce the smooth sea and calm demanded for the +safe journey of the ungainly craft. Day after day slipped by, with +eighty men on the alert, and with fires banked and steam raised on +the vessels, ready to weigh anchor at the first favourable moment. +Fifty-five days passed before the weather bureau recommended that the +conditions were suitable. Under the foregoing circumstances the expense +of this delay may be realized. + +[Illustration: THE FOURTEEN-FOOT BANK LIGHTHOUSE, BUILT ON SAND. + +The erection of this structure constitutes a brilliant achievement in +United States lighthouse engineering.] + +Directly the intimation was conveyed that the tow could be attempted, +there was a scene of indescribable activity and bustle in the +Bremerhaven dock, where the caisson was moored. Full steam was raised +on the tugs, and at half-past three in the morning of May 26 the mighty +steel barrel moved out of the dock. The towing ropes were hitched on, +and very slowly the “Colossus,” as the caisson was named, moved down +the harbour, accompanied by the whole fleet of nine vessels engaged +in construction work, so that the procession was imposing. It dropped +down the river without incident, when, the tide turning, anchor was +cast, and all was made fast until another advance could be made at +four o’clock in the afternoon. But the rising tide was stronger than +had been anticipated, and trouble was soon encountered. The caisson, +pressed by the current, dragged and strained at the two tugs by which +she was being towed, causing them to slip their anchors. It was an +anxious moment. The two vessels could not hold the “Colossus”; in fact, +they were being towed backwards by it. Hurriedly another tug was called +up, and helped in the effort; but although the three steamers put on +full steam ahead, they failed to keep the mass in check. Another tug +was signalled, and then, under the combined effort of 350 horse-power, +driving for all it was worth against the current, the four vessels +mastered the swing of the scurrying water, and had the “Colossus” under +control. + +A little later the procession continued on its way to the North +Sea, but when the boats came up with the Hoheweg lighthouse further +disquieting news was received. The keepers signalled that the barometer +was falling, and that a thunderstorm was hurrying across the North +Sea from England. Anchors were thrown out hurriedly, and everything +made snug and tight for the approaching storm. It burst with fearful +severity. The waves got up, the wind blew with fiendish velocity in +terrifying gusts, and the rain tumbled down in sheets. The engineers +were on tenterhooks the whole hour and a half the storm raged, as they +foresaw lively times if the unmanageable hulk broke loose. But the +“Colossus” rode the gale as quietly as if moored to a wharf in dock. +The storm, however, upset all calculations for the day. There was no +possibility of getting the caisson out and sunk before nightfall, so +the engineers prepared to pass the night at anchor, and to start off +again with the dawn. The weather, ruffled by the thunderstorm, refused +to settle down until a further day and night had been wasted. Then, at +7.30 in the morning, on a favourable tide, anchors were weighed, and, +steaming hard through a broken sea, the tugs conveyed the caisson on +its journey. At last the procession reached the buoy marking the site. +The caisson was brought to rest, the water was admitted gently through +the valves, and slowly, steadily, and vertically, the shell sank lower +and lower, until a scarcely perceptible shock conveyed the intimation +that it had touched bottom. + +The most anxious part of the task was consummated with complete +success: the caisson had been got to the site and sunk. Then the task +of burying it deeply and irremovably in the sand was hurried forward. +Workmen descended into the space beneath the bottom floor and the +sea-bed. Under compressed air they excavated the sand within the +area to permit the cutting edge to sink lower and lower. The sand, +as removed, was lifted to the top of the “Colossus” and discharged +overboard. Meanwhile the concrete-mixing machine got busy, and the +stone heart of the tun was fashioned rapidly. Under this increasing +weight the sinking operation was assisted very appreciably. By the +middle of October the work had been advanced to such a stage that +the total weight of the structure had been increased to over 3,350 +tons, and the top deck of the caisson, which had grown in height by +the attaching of successive rings of plates, was about 99 feet above +the cutting edge, which had buried itself to a depth of 51 feet below +low-water. Then work had to be abandoned, as the autumnal gales +sprang up. The whole of the staff, with the exception of two men, +who mounted guard over the work, were taken back to Bremerhaven. The +gales increased in fury, culminating in a tempest similar to that +which had destroyed the first caisson. Remembering the fate of that +enterprise under such fearful pounding from wind and wave, the Harkort +engineers naturally were somewhat anxious concerning the welfare of +their handiwork under identical conditions. But the new creation was +overwhelmingly strong where its predecessor was weak, although the +seas, baffled in their efforts to upset the caisson, did not fail to +leave their mark by knocking the superstructure and scaffolding about +somewhat, as well as carrying away a few weighty pieces of the top +hamper. + +Work was resumed in February, 1884, and continued more or less +regularly until November. Interruptions were of frequent occurrence, so +that only about one-quarter of the time available could be turned to +useful account. The structure which had been towed out of Bremerhaven +a year previously had disappeared from sight, the rim of the barrel +built on dry land being about 4 feet below water; but, of course, +as the work proceeded and the caisson sank, its walls were extended +upwards, as already explained. When the structure had been sunk to +its designed depth, the steel shell was 107½ feet in height, from the +cutting edge to the top projecting above the water, and nearly 40 +feet of its height was buried in the Rothersand. To sink it to this +level required the removal of 3,000 cubic yards of sand from beneath +the bottom floor of the structure; while 49,100 tons of material were +brought out from Bremerhaven and built into the steel shell to render +it a solid elliptical mass, with the exception of a short central +hollow space which has a narrow conduit connection with the outer sea, +and which, fitted with a float, acts as a tide-gauge which may be read +in the lighthouse. From this massive concrete pedestal rises the tower +proper, which at the base is circular, with a diameter of 33¾ feet. +This base rises in the form of a graceful concave curve to a height of +26 feet, and is solid except for two water-tanks. At the entrance level +the tower is 23 feet in diameter. Above this are disposed four floors, +comprising the cellar, storeroom, kitchen, and living-quarters for the +men, crowned by the lantern, the gallery of which is 80½ feet above +low-water. + +The external appearance of this interesting lighthouse is somewhat +different from the general conception of such a building. Instead of +being merely a circular top and lantern, there are three semicircular +turret-like projections on the dwelling-room and lantern levels, which +serve for directing and warning lights as well as for a lookout station. + +The fickle character of the North Sea where it rolls over the +Rothersand is reflected by an experience which befell the Harkort +engineer and the superintendent of erection for the authorities, who +wished to complete his duty of inspection. The finishing touches were +being applied, a squad of twelve workmen being in the tower to continue +the work during the winter. The early December day was fair and the +sea smooth, as well as giving every indication of remaining quiescent +for some hours. The superintendent had arranged to spend his Christmas +holidays with some friends, and desired to complete his duty in good +time, so that his sojourn might be free from care. The two started off +in the steamer, and landed without effort. But while they were engaged +in their work of inspection the wind and sea freshened, so that a boat +could not be sent from the steamer to take them off. It was an amusing +situation which was keenly enjoyed at Bremerhaven; but all would be +right on the morrow, said everyone. But the next day the weather was +worse, and continued so for day after day. When a fortnight had passed +without it being possible to succour the weather-bound engineers, +amusement gave way to anxiety, more especially as a signal was flying +from the tower which conveyed the unwelcome intelligence that one of +the workmen had fallen ill. The feelings of the superintendent may +be imagined. He had visions of spending his Yuletide in a draughty, +half-finished lighthouse tower, where comfort was conspicuous by its +absence, and where seasonal fare such as he had been anticipating +keenly was unknown. But on December 21 the constructional engineers, +having grown impatient with the weather, sent out one of their boats, +with instructions to bring everyone ashore at all hazards. The waves +were running high and the wind was gusty, but the steamer anchored as +near the lighthouse as she dared, and by means of her boats, which were +in momentary danger of being swamped, brought off the two engineers as +well as all the workmen except two. The latter remained behind as a +guard, and, being given a good stock of seasonal provisions and other +necessities, were left in their splendid isolation. The superintendent, +after all, was able to enjoy his Christmas holidays. + +The succeeding spring brought a resumption of toil, and by September +the tower was completed except for the illuminating apparatus. One +feature was observed during construction and had to receive attention. +The free swing of the currents and tides, being obstructed by the +tower, had commenced heavy erosion, big hollows being scooped out +of the soft sea-bed around the caisson. As it was quite possible +that in the course of time this scouring might imperil the safety +of the building, protective works had to be undertaken. These were +of an elaborate character, and comprised the sinking of mattresses, +fashioned from brushwood, around the foundations, upon which were +dumped boatloads of broken stone. This mattress had to be nearly 50 +feet in width, and in some places about 15 feet in thickness. For +this protective work alone some 176,550 cubic feet of brushwood, and +600 tons of block-stone to hold it down, were used. These measures, +however, effectually overcame the danger of erosion. + +On November 1, 1885, the light was shown for the first time, and the +greatest peril at the entrance to the Weser was indicated far and wide +by night and day. It was a magnificent achievement, carried through in +the face of enormous difficulties, sensational incidents innumerable, +and upon a foundation of disaster. The lighthouse is as firm as if +it were anchored upon a solid granite rock, instead of having its +roots thrust deep into treacherous shifting sand, and constitutes an +imperishable monument to German engineering ability; while, all things +considered, the cost was low, being only £43,400, or $217,000, in all. +The light is electric, the power being supplied from a station on +shore, and fed to the lighthouse through a submarine cable; the keepers +are also in submarine telegraphic communication with the mainland. + +When the United States set out to build a similar structure in the +spacious Delaware Bay, they were confronted with a prospect just as +forbidding, and a task in every way as difficult, as that offered in +connection with the Rothersand. There is a dangerous shoal about twenty +miles off the land, where the Atlantic beats with furious rage, and +where vessels were apt to stick hard and fast. It was described as +“Fourteen Foot Bank” by mariners, from the depth of the water flowing +over the shoal, and this colloquialism has provided the name for the +present guardian light. The open situation did not augur favourably for +the completion of a lighthouse at this spot, but the American engineers +were resolved to make the attempt. Accordingly, plans were prepared for +a construction upon the caisson principle, which was the only method +promising success. + +The preliminary step was the fabrication of a caisson. The first part +was more like a raft with sides. It was about 40 feet square, 5 feet +thick, and with walls 7 feet deep. It was built of timber, the staves +being 12 inches square, and upside down--that is, with the floor +uppermost--on a building-slip, as if it were a ship, and was launched +into the water upon similar lines. The sides and top were lined, so as +to secure water-tightness. In the centre there was a circular space 5 +feet in diameter to form the air-shaft. + +As the structure was built upside down, the rim was brought to the +lowermost position, and this formed the cutting edge, which was to be +sunk into the sand. On this floating platform a circular iron cylinder +was erected. This tube was 35 feet in diameter, and was built up in +plates, 6 feet in width by 1½ inches thick. When three rings of iron +were set up the cylinder was 18 feet in height. In order to sink it to +a depth of 15½ feet into the water for towing purposes, it was charged +with a layer of concrete, 9 inches in thickness, to serve as ballast, +and in this condition the caisson weighed 400 tons. + +This huge barrel was built at Lewes, Delaware, and when it was launched +two powerful steam-tugs set out to drag it to the shoal, twenty miles +away. As the tide rises and falls a matter of 6 feet in these waters, +and the currents are somewhat wicked, the engineers displayed no undue +haste. They waited for the first favourable opportunity, and seized it. +But it took the two tugs some six hours to reach the site; an average +speed of about three and a half miles per hour cannot be construed into +fast travelling. + +When the mighty caisson had been warped and nudged dead into position +over the desired spot, water was admitted. With a gurgling and hissing +the hulk sank slowly into the sea. At last a slight jolt, which +quivered through the mass, signified that the structure was resting on +the bottom. The engineers gave a sigh of relief, but the next instant +changed it to a cry of dismay. The caisson began to heel over to one +side. Was it going to capsize? That was the absorbing fear. It canted +more and more, until at last it had a list of 12 degrees. _It had not +sunk vertically!_ There was less than 16 inches of water between the +sea-level and the rim when the caisson first jarred against the sand, +and if it careened over too far the water certainly would rush in, +roll the whole tub over, and tumble it hither and thither over the +sea-bed. The engineers watched that caisson as closely as a cat watches +a mouse-hole. Presently it eased up, and then, as the tide rose some +six hours later, it began to right itself. The engineers were relieved +once more. The danger was over. But their self-satisfaction was soon +upset as the tide began to ebb, because again the cylinder gradually +fell over on its side. The cause of this strange behaviour flashed upon +them. The surface of the sandbank was not level! The mass in sinking +had touched bottom on the highest point of the shoal, and was trying to +find its own level. + +Without any further delay, the engineers decided upon an ingenious +means of correcting this erratic and dangerous action. The tugs were +despatched hurriedly to Lewes to bring out cargoes of broken stone, +which had been delivered for the preparation of the concrete. While +the steamers pursued their errand, the engineers fashioned large +pockets on the elevated section of the structure, into which the stone +upon its arrival was placed. Gradually but surely the caisson not only +was corrected, but the weighted end was induced to settle into the +sand, until the opposite free edge in its turn was resting upon the +shoal. + +In this manner all danger of further canting now was removed. As the +rim had been brought perilously near the water-level, and there was +a possibility of flooding from a rough sea, the walls of the caisson +were extended vertically with all haste; meanwhile two additional +rings of iron were placed in position, and the top was brought about +20 feet above the water. While this work was in progress the structure +gradually bit farther and farther into the sand, until at last it +secured a firm hold. + +At the earliest possible moment the air-compressors were set to work, +and air was driven into the space between the cutting edge and the +roof, in which the men were to work. This space was 40 feet square and +7 feet deep. The greater pressure of the air drove the water out from +this space, and the men were able to enter through the air-lock and to +work upon a dry surface, isolated from the surrounding sea by the fence +formed by the cutting edge. + +The men toiled in eight-hour shifts continuously, removing the sand +within the space and sending it upwards to be discharged overboard. +As the area was excavated, the cutting edge sank deeper and deeper, +so that the structure became more and more firmly embedded. There +was apprehension that the obstruction offered by the caisson to the +movement of the currents might set up undermining around the cylinder, +as in the case of the Rothersand; but the engineers arrested any +tendency in this direction by dumping large pieces of stone overboard +around the tub. Some 6,000 tons of stone were used for this purpose, so +that the caisson has an impregnable protection. + +As the structure sank lower and lower, owing to the excavation, +concrete was dumped around the air-tube above the floor of the space +in which the men were labouring, while successive rings of iron were +added to the top of the cylinder. The men worked with great gusto in +their novel situation, and, the task being prosecuted uninterruptedly +throughout the day and night, the cylinder sank from 12 to 24 inches +during the twenty-four hours. This labour was maintained until the +cutting edge of the caisson was 33 feet below the surface of the shoal, +when the engineers called halt. They considered that the task had been +continued to a sufficient depth to secure the requisite rigidity for +their lighthouse. The men left the working chamber, which was then +tightly underrammed with sand, so as to form a solid foundation, while +the air-shaft was filled up with rammed sand and sealed with a thick +plug of concrete. The wall of the iron cylinder had been intermittently +increased in height by the addition of successive rings of plates, +until the rim was 70 feet above the cutting edge and projected about +30 feet above the water at low-tide. From the bottom to a height of 40 +feet it is virtually a solid mass of concrete, protected by a skin of +iron 1½ inches thick. Further concrete was added, bringing the solid +section to within 10 feet of the rim, so that the concrete heart is +about 53 feet in height and 35 feet in diameter. It is a solid circular +rock sunk into the sand, and as firm and free from vibration as a +granite core. + +Upon this foundation a house for the light-keepers, crowned by a tower, +was erected, the focal plane being 59 feet above mean high-water. It is +fitted with a light of the fourth order, visible for thirteen miles. + +One of the most important features in connection with the Fourteen Foot +Bank light was its small cost, which was below the estimate, especially +when it is compared with the German work. The United States Government +appropriated a sum of £35,000, or $175,000, for the undertaking, but +the total expenditure was less than £25,000, or $125,000, so that a sum +of £10,000, or $50,000, was handed back to the Treasury--a most unusual +event in connection with Government contracts. The lighthouse was +finished and brought into service in 1886. + +The success of this novel enterprise prompted the authorities to +essay a more daring project--the erection of a lighthouse upon the +caisson principle on the Outer Diamond Shoal, off Cape Hatteras, North +Carolina. But the storms encountered off this inhospitable coast have +proved too overpowering for the engineer. Numerous attempts have been +made, but disaster has been their invariable fate. The Diamond Shoal +refuses to be indicated by anything except a lightship. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOME LIGHT PATROLS OF THE FRENCH COAST + + +In the matter of safeguarding its shores the French nation has +displayed considerable enterprise, and its engineers have added some +magnificent contributions to this field of engineering. The maintenance +and welfare of these aids to navigation is placed in the hands of the +Service des Phares, which is controlled by the Department of Bridges +and Roads. The French scheme is the disposition of the lights along the +shore in such a way that their ranges overlap on either side, so that, +as one passes along the coast, before one ray is dropped the next is +picked up. Electricity is employed extensively as the illuminant, so +that the lights are of great power and twinkle like brilliant white +stars on a clear night. + +While the majority of these guides are erected on the mainland, others +rise from islands lying off the coast, which, by their position in deep +water, render navigation hazardous. The finest expressions of French +lighthouse engineering are to be found along the rugged islet-dotted +coast of the huge indentation in which lie the Channel Islands--the +cruel coast of Brittany. It was off the western extremity of Brittany, +which thrusts itself well out into the Atlantic Ocean, forming the +point generally known as Ushant, that the _Drummond Castle_ lost her +way, to pull up with a fatal crash against one of the jagged reefs +stretching to seaward. While this wreck was but one of many in these +troubled waters, it sent a thrill round the world, owing to the +terrible loss of life with which it was accompanied. + +It is not surprising, therefore, that the French Government has +endeavoured to remove the evil notoriety which this coast has reaped, +and to render it as safe as the other stretches lying to the north and +south. The conditions, however, are against the engineer, as the nose +of the mainland projects well into the ocean, and receives the full +brunt of its attacks when gales rage, so that a foothold is precarious. + +When the question of lighting this inhospitable stretch of coast arose, +the French authorities debated whether it would not be easier, cheaper, +and more satisfactory, to place the lighthouses on the mainland at a +sufficient altitude, and to fit them with adequately powerful lights +to indicate the outlying reefs. The general opinion was in favour of +such a practice. So when Léonce Reynaud proposed to mark the Heaux de +Bréhat with a magnificent tower, there was considerable opposition. The +critics maintained that it was a flagrant temptation of Fate to attempt +the conquest of such an evil wave-swept rock, the head of which was +barely visible above high-water, and was of such small dimensions that +work would be possible for only a few hours daily and then by no more +than a mere handful of men. + +The engineer was confident that he could surmount all difficulties in +construction, and that he would be able to erect a tower which would +defy wind and wave, so he gained the day and received the requisite +sanction to proceed with his undertaking. He had surveyed the rock +and its surroundings thoroughly; had discovered the velocity of the +currents, and their varying directions under all conditions of weather. +They tore along at about nine and a half miles an hour, and this speed +was augmented considerably in rough weather. He selected the site for +the lighthouse about nine miles from the Isle of Bréhat, where landing +would have to be made at low-water, owing to the water rushing first +from the island to the rock, and then in the opposite direction, +according to the movements of the tides. + +The Isle of Bréhat was made the base for operations. It is freely +indented, and one of the coves was found to form an excellent little +harbour. A rough stone jetty was run out for a length of 170 feet, and +while one fleet of boats was retained to convey material from the +island to the rock, another was kept to bring supplies to the island +for preparation, and the support of the men, whose quarters were +established at this depot. Sixty men were employed on the work. They +dressed the granite stones and prepared the woodwork as it arrived in +the raw condition, ample workshops being provided for these purposes. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE HEAUX DE BRÉHAT LIGHT. + +A striking tower built by Léonce Reynaud off the exposed Brittany +coast. It is 159 feet high and took six years to complete.] + +The face of the rock was cleaned off during the brief intervals when +it was bared by the sea, and rough stones and masonry were laid in +concrete and continued solidly to a point 13 feet above high-water. +Around this confined platform quarters were built for the handful of +men who stayed on the rock during the periods of calm weather, as too +much time was lost in travelling to and from the island, while there +were risks of landing being interrupted by the swell. A temporary light +was also placed in position while constructional work was proceeding, +to warn navigation. The facilities also included a small forge for +the fashioning upon the spot of the iron dogs and bolts whereby the +stones were clamped together, and this proved highly convenient, +except for one thing: when the water was somewhat rough and playful, +the waves, striking the rock, flew into the air, soused the forge, and +extinguished the fire. + +The preparations of the foundations proved exceedingly tedious. The +rock is a very hard black porphyry, but the surface was so scarred +with fissures and deep cracks that the whole of the upper surface had +to be cleaned off, so as to remove all rotten and splintered rock in +order to secure a firm, solid foundation. Then a circle 38 feet in +diameter was marked off, and masons cut away all the rock around this +line to a depth of about 20 inches and of sufficient width to take +the stones--a trench, as it were. This work had to be executed during +the short period of low-water, and a special schedule was prepared +to insure the men concentrating the whole of their energies upon the +task when opportunity offered. As the ebbing tide began to bare the +space, the workmen were called, and they followed the receding water, +never leaving the spot for meals, but toiling continuously until +the returning tide drove them off. As a rule the men were sufficiently +fleet to get clear untouched, although they delayed their retreat until +the very last moment; but at other times the sea was a trifle quicker, +and the men received an unexpected douche from a scurrying wave. + +When this trench had been cleared out and the face levelled, the outer +ring of stones was laid and secured firmly in position. The inner +space of the rock was left in its roughly trimmed condition, and was +then buried beneath cement and rock to the level of the outer ring of +stones, forming a platform ready to receive the mass of the tower. The +outer ring was the main consideration, and the work had to be finished +in such a manner that a tight joint was made with the rock, to resist +the penetration of the water. When the men were compelled to lay down +their tools for the coming tide, they hastily applied a thick covering +of quick-drying cement to the work completed, thereby protecting it +against the disintegrating and percolating action of the sea. + +Ere the work had started thoroughly, the engineer was faced with a +trouble which he had not anticipated. The men were left to attend to +their own desires in the way of provisions. This haphazard arrangement +had the inevitable sequel. Some of the men were stricken down with +scurvy, and the disease promised to secure a firm hold, when the +engineer stepped in with a firm hand. He established a canteen, the +contractor of which was compelled to maintain a supply of varied +provisions for six months at least, lest the little colony should +become isolated by rough weather. A regular varied bill of fare +was imposed upon the workmen, who were compelled to purchase their +requirements from the canteen. By this firm and timely action the +disease was stamped out. The engineer also enforced other stringent +regulations in the interests of health. The men were compelled to bathe +once a week, and had to turn their sleeping-blankets into the open air +every day; while the quarters had to be washed out and the walls given +a dressing of limewash at frequent intervals. + +[Illustration: FITTING THE LANTERN OF LA JUMENT LIGHT.] + +When the visitor approaches the tower for the first time, he cannot +fail to be impressed by its unusual design. It appears as if a former +tower of great diameter had been decapitated, and another more slender +building placed upon its butt. This is due to the ingenious idea +adopted by Reynaud. The lower part of the tower rises like the trunk +of a tree from the base, which is a solid plinth, to a height of 39 +feet above highest spring-tides. At the top this lower tower is 28 feet +in diameter, as compared with 38 feet at the base. Here the butt is +levelled off, and from its surface rises the lighthouse proper, in the +form of a slightly tapering cone, leaving a narrow gallery around the +superimposed structure to serve as a “set-off” and landing or entrance +platform. + +In carrying out his work, Reynaud followed a principle quite divergent +from the prevailing practice in lighthouse construction. He did not +attach every stone irremovably to its neighbours, but merely made +fast the masonry at varying points, where the mass of water might be +expected to expend the greater part of its violence. The method he +adopted is very simple. Keystones are introduced at selected points in +each course, and these are driven up and held tight by granite plugs +and wedges. The principle was assailed at the time as being deficient +in strength, but no apprehensions ever have arisen concerning the +safety of the tower, so that the engineer’s daring ingenuity has been +completely justified. + +Considering the isolation of the rock and its wind-swept position, +it was built in a very short time. The whole of the year 1834 was +devoted to the survey of the rock, close observations of the prevailing +meteorological conditions, and the preparation of the design. The +succeeding year was confined to the establishment of the workmen’s +quarters, the cutting of the annular trench in the rock, and the +setting of the masonry course. The erection of the superstructure +occupied nearly four years, the work being completed and the light +exhibited in 1859, according to the inscription. The tower is 159 feet +in height, and the light has a range of eighteen miles. + +Since the Heaux de Bréhat was conquered so successfully, French +lighthouse engineering skill has been manifested actively around the +ill-famed Brittany coast, which now is robbed of the greater part of +its dangers. Reynaud’s work, however, did not bring complete safety to +the waters from which it lifts its imposing form. Four miles off the +self-same island is the plateau of Horaine. This is a chain of rocks, +the greatest peril of which is that at high-tide nothing whatever of +them is seen, and their existence is betrayed only by the agitated and +broken waves rushing over them with fearful force. As the tide falls +the water becomes more tormented, and is torn into flying foam, until, +when it has almost ebbed, these jagged fangs may be seen projecting +above the surf. Bearing in mind these terrible characteristics, it is +not surprising that time after time vessels which had been driven out +of their course by tempestuous weather, or had got lost in a dense fog, +blundered into this death-trap and were lost. + +The French Government was sorely puzzled as to how to overcome this +danger. The engineers fought the elements valiantly for forty years +in an effort to crown Horaine with a beacon, but time after time they +were defeated. Landing on the reef is highly dangerous. The rocks are +surrounded by surging, eddying currents, running at anything from six +miles upwards per hour, while the slightest ruffle of wind is quite +sufficient to stir up the water so as to fling it swirling over the +rocks even at lowest tide. Once or twice, when a period of abnormal +calm prevailed, the engineers struggled on to the rock and hurriedly +built a substantial masonry beacon, but its life was always brief. +The first two or three gales which pounded and roared over the chain +invariably scattered the handiwork of man in all directions. + +Then another expedient was attempted. A party landed upon the ridge, +drove a hole into the solid rock, and there set a vertical iron girder +4 inches in thickness, trusting that it would hold fast and indicate +the reef sufficiently during the day. But its life was short. A gale +came along and snapped the post in twain, leaving a twisted, bent +stump, some 36 inches long, remaining on the rock. + +[Illustration: PREPARING THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE JUMENT LIGHT. + +This illustration conveys an idea of the difficulties encountered in +connection with this work.] + +In 1890 another bold effort to subjugate the ridge was made. An +hexagonal structure was designed, and it was determined to plant this +on the rock by hook or by crook, and so firmly as to resist the most +powerful hammerings to which it could be subjected by the waves. Six +holes were bored into the rock surface to form the corners of the +hexagon. But before commencing the work proper it was decided to insert +an iron post, 6½ inches thick, into one of the holes, and to leave it +to see what would happen. Time after time it was inspected, and was +found to be safe and sound. Two years had slipped by, practically, +since the post was planted, and it was still intact. The engineers +thought they had triumphed, and were preparing their plans, when the +news came that a heavy storm, which had swept the coast, had broken the +pillar off flush with the rock. + +This necessitated another change in the designs and the plan of +campaign. After further discussion it was decided to proceed right +away with a masonry tower, although the engineers were prepared for +a mighty tussle. The surveys showed that, as the rock upon which the +building was to be erected was covered by 10 feet of water during the +highest spring-tides, work upon the foundations would be confined to +the lowest neap-tides, when about 4 feet of the rock were exposed. But +the tide sinks to the very low level desired infrequently--about four +days in every month. Even then work would be possible for only about +an hour per day--four hours per month! The prospect certainly was far +from being attractive, especially as even to accomplish this meed of +toil the calmest weather and smoothest sea were imperative, and it +was scarcely to be expected that everything would be in favour of the +engineers at one and the same time. + +Another adverse feature was only too apparent. If unpropitious weather +prevailed just after an hour or two’s work had been completed, the +chances were a thousand to one that it would be swept away. But this +was a contingency which had to be faced. The engineer could only do the +utmost humanly possible to secure his work, and then must trust to luck. + +With infinite difficulty a small corps of daring workmen and appliances +of the simplest description, together with materials, were got out to +the rock upon the first favourable day when there was a very low tide. +An outer wall of bricks was built piecemeal, and the space within +was filled with concrete. This stood, and so the engineer secured a +level plinth upon which to place his tower. He selected an octagonal +building, the angles of which touch the circumference of a circle +20 feet in diameter described on the rock. It was to be 50 feet in +height, bringing the warning light about 40 feet above high-water. +The beacon was to be a concrete monolithic structure at least for the +greater part of its height, as the light was to be of the unattended +class. Accordingly, the mould was formed by setting a cast-iron post, +18 inches in height, at each corner of the octagon, this support being +anchored into the solid rock beneath. These posts contained grooves to +admit sliding wooden uprights, which were to be firmly wedged, these +joists being inclined to take the angle, or batter, proposed for the +tower. Heavy transverse pieces of timber were laid between these posts, +forming a capacious octagonal box, into which the concrete was poured. +As the filling process behind the wooden wall advanced, angle pieces of +steel were superimposed and bolted up. + +[Illustration: THE JUMENT LIGHT RECENTLY ERECTED OFF USHANT. + +This beacon was built with a legacy left by M. Potron, a distinguished +French traveller, in the interests of humanity.] + +The security of the structure occupied the sole attention of the +engineer. When work had to cease, and the boat put off with the workmen +after a spell of toil, the engineer would watch the rising tide and +the waves sweeping over his structure, until at last it disappeared +from sight. As the tide fell he followed the receding waters just as +eagerly, and gave a sigh of relief when he saw that the tower was still +withstanding the blind forces of Nature. In the early stages an effort +to protect the work, when the men had to retreat before the rising +tide, was made by covering it with a heavy piece of sailcloth, lashed +down and weighted in position with huge masses of pig-iron. This served +its purpose for a time, but finally the sea got the upper hand, tore +the canvas from its lashings, and carried it away, together with the +whole of its weights. Then a wooden protective device was employed, and +this likewise held out until a particularly unfriendly September gale +smashed it to matchwood, as well as damaging the concrete slightly here +and there. + +The men took their tools and materials with them on every visit, and, +as the tower rose, the working spells between the tides became longer +and longer, until, when a point above high-water was reached, work was +continued throughout the day whenever the rock was approachable. A +small wooden platform was erected on one side, on which the concrete +was mixed, while on the other there was a little shelf with a small +cistern, which was filled with water from the boats below, through the +agency of a pump. A jury derrick was rigged up to lift the material and +men to the working level. As the tower rose in height, the wooden mould +had to be dismembered and re-erected upon the new level, this operation +being repeated no less than forty times until the desired height was +gained. Work was exasperatingly slow and intermittent, while it had to +be suspended entirely for about six or seven months, as no one dared +to venture near the rock in winter. Taken on the whole, it was one of +the most anxious and difficult pieces of the work of this character +which the French Government has ever undertaken, while the working area +was so confined that less than a dozen men could toil simultaneously +without getting in one another’s way. + +Recently the Brittany coast has been further protected by another +magnificent beacon, the Jument lighthouse, off Ushant. This awful spot +has long been marked by a very powerful electric light at Creach, which +may be seen over twenty miles away, and, together with its fellow +on the opposite end of the island, may be said to guide the crowded +shipping around this promontory very effectively. But foggy weather +reduces the mariner to helplessness, as the sea for two miles round +the island is studded with reefs, ridges and rocky humps of a very +formidable character, so that vessels have to keep well beyond this +zone. When the light is obscured, safe travelling is possible only by +going very slowly and making liberal use of the lead, while the captain +must keep a sharp eye upon the rapid currents which set inshore if he +would not be thrown upon the rocks he is seeking sedulously to avoid. + +The French Government, with its characteristic thoroughness, determined +to secure the complete indication of the Ushant and all its dangers by +a carefully-conceived and comprehensive chain of lights distributed +over the dangerous area. The urgency of such a scheme is obvious +when it is remembered that it is computed that 24,000 vessels of all +classes pass Ushant in the course of the year. At the same time the +sea’s harvest of vessels and lives off this rocky shore every year is +appallingly heavy. The only handicap to the immediate completion of the +Government’s humane project is the extreme difficulty of the work and +its prodigious cost. + +Fortunately, through the extreme generosity of a French traveller--M. +Potron--it was rendered possible to commence the scheme. Upon his +death, and according to the terms of his will, dated January 9, 1904, +this gentleman left 400,000 francs--£16,000, or $80,000--for the +erection of a lighthouse of the latest type and with the most powerful +lighting apparatus off the coast washed by the open Atlantic, and even +suggested that a site off Ushant would be found the most beneficial to +humanity. After consultation between his executor, residuary legatee, +and the Government, a rock known as La Jument, off the south of the +Ile d’Ouessant (Ushant) was selected for the site of his monument. The +lighthouse engineers advocated a tower 118 feet in height, with a light +of the latest type and a modern fog-signalling apparatus. This proposal +was accepted, and was sanctioned on November 18, 1904, by the parties +concerned. + +Headquarters were established in the Bay of Lampaul, on Ushant +Island, which immediately faces the site, and by the end of 1904 +the preparations were well advanced. A steamboat, a launch and a +lifeboat were secured, the first-named for the purpose of maintaining +communication with the mainland and to bring in supplies, together +with suitable craft for transporting material and provisions to the +rock. The situation of the ledge and its exposure to the worst weather +rendered approach very difficult. The danger spot itself is completely +covered at high-tide, and only projects 4 feet at low-water. So far +as the foundations were concerned, work was only possible for a few +hours at a time. During the closing months of 1904 seventeen landings +were made and fifty-two hours in all spent upon the rock, while in the +succeeding year the men landed fifty-nine times, to put in an aggregate +of 206½ hours. + +The current rushes round the reef with a velocity of some ten miles per +hour, varying its direction according to the movements of the tides. +Investigation proved the existence of a small space of water on one +side where the boats could approach and moor safely in an eddy. The men +were brought out in the steamer, which also towed the launch and the +lifeboat. The latter was kept in readiness alongside the rock while +the men were at work, in case of emergency. A sharp eye had to be kept +upon the weather while the handful of men laboured hastily preparing +the face of the rock, and at the first signs of a threatening sky or +increased movement in the swell the steamer blew its siren, the men +scrambled aboard, and were hurried back to the island. + +The year 1906 was one of bad weather, rendering frequent approach +impossible. During this season the men landed only thirty-nine times +and toiled for 152 hours, while the sum of their achievement was the +least throughout the whole seven years which the tower occupied in +its erection. The building is solid for about 30 feet above the rock, +and in 1908 the construction of the tower proper was commenced. The +base is circular, with a diameter of 33¾ feet; but the tower itself is +of octagonal form, with a diameter at the base of 28 feet, tapering +slightly to the top. + +One notable feature in connection with the work was the utilization +of electricity for the operation of the derrick, which was driven by +a petrol motor coupled thereto. This was supplemented in times of +pressure with another derrick, driven by current generated on the +steamer, from which a cable trailed to the rock. Altogether 4,180 tons +of masonry were transported to the rock and set in position. During +the seven years the work was in progress, from the first landing to +the final withdrawal of the workmen, 449 landings were made and 2,937 +hours of work put in. The largest annual aggregate of labour was +in 1911, when 70 landings were made and 400 hours turned to useful +purpose. The tower, which is of imposing appearance, has six floors for +the convenience of the keeper, stores, etc. The apartment immediately +beneath the lantern contains the fog-signalling apparatus, which +comprises a siren driven by air which is compressed for the purpose by +means of a fourteen horse-power petrol motor. The signal is as follows: +Three blasts of one and a half seconds’ duration with intervening +intervals of one and a half seconds, followed by a silent period of +fifty-two and a half seconds, one cycle thus being emitted every +minute. The light, which is thrown from an elevation of 110¼ feet above +high-water, throws groups of three red flashes at intervals of fifteen +seconds, and has a maximum range of twenty miles in very clear weather. + +In accordance with the terms of the donor’s will, the light is named +after the rock upon which it stands, and therefore is known as the +Jument of Ushant lighthouse. The benefactor’s second wish is also +respected in the inscription wrought in the solid granite, which +translated runs: “This lighthouse was built with the legacy of Charles +Eugène Potron, traveller, and member of the Geographical Society of +Paris.” The sum set aside by this benefactor of humanity, however, did +not defray the entire cost of the lighthouse. As a matter of fact, +the total outlay on the undertaking was more than twice the sum left +for the purpose, totalling 850,000 francs--£34,000, or $170,000. The +Government decided that the munificence of its citizen offered the +opportunity to carry out the first instalment of the scheme it had +in view upon the most complete lines--hence the heavy disbursement. +Nevertheless the origin of the Jument lighthouse is almost +unprecedented in the annals of lighthouse engineering, and it probably +ranks as the first important light which has been built in accordance +with the terms, and with funds, left by a will. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +THE GUARDIAN LIGHTS OF CANADA’S COAST + + +The phenomenal commercial expansion of the Dominion of Canada, which +has brought about an amazing development in the maritime traffic with +that country on both its seaboards, naturally has been responsible +for the display of striking activity in the provision of aids to +navigation. Both the Atlantic and Pacific coastlines bristle with +dangers of a most terrible nature; the innumerable islands and +precipitous flanks of rock recall the wild ruggedness of the western +coast of Scotland or the forbidding Atlantic shoreline of France and +Spain. + +When the ships of Britain first traded with Canadian shores, shipwrecks +and ocean tragedies were numerous; there is no escape for a ship which +is caught on those pitiless coasts. The early settlers, therefore, did +not hesitate to provide ways and means of guiding navigators to safety. +Their first lights were primitive, comprising bonfires fed with wood, +of which ample supplies abounded, pitched on prominent headlands; and +these flickering rays, when not obscured by smoke and fog, served to +speed the ship safely on her way. + +The British pioneers, naturally, did not hesitate to improve upon +these uncertain crude methods of warning, in course of time, by +the erection of more substantial lights. These for the most part +comprised timber-frame dwellings, used by the family entrusted with +the maintenance of the light, from the roof of which a wooden tower +extended, similar in design to the buildings favoured for a similar +purpose in the United States. Many lights of this class are still +doing faithful service to-day, and although one might anticipate the +destruction of such a beacon from fire, yet, owing to the unremitting +care displayed by the families associated with the upkeep thereof, +this awful fiend has not been responsible for the temporary extinction +of many lights in the country’s history. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +THE CAPE RACE LIGHTHOUSE, NEWFOUNDLAND. + +One of the finest and most powerful beacons in the world. It is +filled with the hyperradiant apparatus, and the ray is of 1,100,000 +candle-power.] + +One of the oldest, if not the first light to be established, was that +on Sambro Island, to indicate the entrance into Halifax Harbour, Nova +Scotia. This signpost of the sea was set up in 1758, and fulfilled its +purpose for 148 years, when it was reconstructed and fitted with the +most up-to-date appliances. The white flash now bursts forth, at an +elevation of 140 feet above mean high-water, from the top of a white +octagonal stone and concrete tower, and is visible from a distance +of seventeen miles. When it is blotted out by fog, a powerful signal +is given once every ten minutes by a cotton-powder charge. Mariners, +however, are cautioned against attempting to make Sambro in fog, as the +shore is wild and cruel. This explosive signal is emitted rather to +communicate a timely warning to vessels which have lost their way. + +The two most dangerous spots in the approach to Canada, however, +lie off the mainland. One is the irregular triangular island of +Newfoundland; the other is a low-lying stretch of sand known as Sable +Island. Both are amongst the most ill-famed graveyards in the North +Atlantic, where hundreds of ships have gone to their doom. Even to-day, +although both are well protected by lights, wrecks are by no means +uncommon. Sable Island is stalked by the ghosts of scores of seafarers +who have been the victims of some ghastly ocean tragedy upon its banks. + +The island of Newfoundland lies in the jaw of the River St. Lawrence, +with two narrow passages leading between the Gulf behind and the broad +Atlantic. Both straits offer dangers to navigation, although in this +respect that of Belle Ile, whereby the northern corner of the island +is rounded, is the worse offender. Yet the most dangerous corner of +the island is, not where the waterways are hemmed in, but that tongue +which thrusts itself far out to sea, to terminate in the bluff headland +of Cape Race. This shoreline is as serrated as a fine saw, being a +succession of indentations and steep promontories, with submerged +reefs running far out to sea. To the south lies that great submerged +tableland, invariably curtained in fog, where mighty icebergs that +have come down from the north pound and grate themselves to pieces, +which throughout the shipping world is regarded with dread--the Grand +Banks. This south-eastward corner of the island, by being thrust so +far outwards, brings the rocky headlands into the path of the vessels +plying between Europe, Canada, and New York. + +The shortest route between the Old and New World extends across the +northern half of the Banks, with a slight swing southwards to avoid +Cape Race. So far as the great liners are concerned, they are spared +this peril, inasmuch as their prescribed lanes give the cruel coast +a wide berth; but all other shipping has either to swing round the +headland to enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence, or strike farther north and +pass through the Strait of Belle Ile. The latter route, however, is +available for only five months in the year; the greater volume of the +traffic skirts the southern shores of the island. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +CANN ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE ON THE EAST COAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND. + +This is a typical example of a wooden frame building. The tower +projects from the roof of the home of the lighthouse-keeper and his +family.] + +Under these circumstances Cape Race is to the western side of the +Atlantic what the Fastnet and Bishop Rocks are to the eastern +boundaries of this ocean. Even if the wild character of the coast were +not sufficient justification for a light, the currents experienced +off these shores, which are of high velocity and violently broken up +by the indentations and protuberances, would demand the provision +of a beacon. Over one hundred vessels of all descriptions have been +smashed to pieces in the vicinity of Cape Race alone. The Allan liner +_Anglo-Saxon_ crashed into the cliffs and went down in 1864 with 290 +souls. In this instance the death-roll would have been far heavier had +it not been for the pluck and grit of the lighthouse-keepers, who, +observing the wreck, hurried to the water’s edge, lowered themselves +with ropes from the heights above, and, stumbling, groping, and feeling +their way through the darkness, at imminent risk to their own limbs and +lives, rescued 130 of the luckless passengers and crew from the wreck, +who were huddled on a ledge under the cliffs, hungry, shivering with +cold, and too exhausted to assist themselves. The light-keepers and +men from the telegraph-station had to lift these helpless survivors one +by one to the top of the precipice, a task demanding herculean effort, +patience, and intrepidity, and to lead and help them to the lighthouse, +where they were tended until a steamer, answering the telegraphic call +for help, came round from St. John’s and took the hapless people off. + +In 1901 the _Assyrian_ ran ashore in calm weather, and was too firmly +jammed on a reef to extricate herself. A week later another fine vessel +and cargo worth £80,000, or $400,000, was battered to pulp by the +waves, the lighthouse-keepers once more, at great risk to themselves, +putting out and rescuing those on board in the nick of time. Ere the +excitement of this wreck had died down, a French emigrant steamer, the +_Lusitania_, ran full-tilt on to a reef, and but for the timely aid +rendered by the lighthouse-keepers and the fisherfolk 550 people would +have been drowned. More fearful catastrophes have been enacted within +hail of the lights at Cape Race and Cape Ray, hard by to the west, and +more millions sterling of cargo and ship have been shattered and lost +here than upon any other corresponding stretch of coast in the world. +The most noticeable point in connection with these disasters is the +large number of big boats which have ended their careers abruptly off +this spot, although the rocks have claimed a big share of small fry as +well. + +The first beacon was placed on the headland in 1856. It was a +cylindrical tower, built up of cast-iron plates, erected near the edge +of the cliff, which is 87 feet high. The tower itself being 38 feet in +height, the focal plane of the beam was at an elevation of 125 feet +above the sea. It was erected jointly by the British and Newfoundland +Government authorities, although the maintenance thereof was entrusted +to Great Britain. In return for the provision of this warning, a tax +of one-sixteenth of a penny, or an eighth of a cent, per ton, was +collected in England from vessels passing the light. The beacon was not +particularly powerful, the ray being only of some 6,000 candle-power. + +Some years ago the lighthouse was handed over to the Canadian +Government to be included in its service, together with the balance of +the fund which had accrued from the levy of the special tax. This sum +represented £20,579, or $102,895. The Canadian Government abolished the +light-due, and the surplus funds were absorbed into the general revenue +of the country. + +The new owners, realizing the importance of the light, subsequently +decided to provide a new beacon of greater power to meet the demands +of shipping, which had increased amazingly. In 1907 this structure +was completed. It is a cylindrical tower, carried out in reinforced +concrete, 100 feet in height, surmounted by a lantern of the first +order with hyperradial apparatus. This is the largest type of optical +apparatus in use at the present time, and the ray of light produced by +an incandescent oil-burner and mantle is of 1,100,000 candle-power, +shed from an elevation of 195 feet above the water. The warning flash +of a quarter of a second every seven and a half seconds is visible from +a distance of nineteen miles. In addition, the fog-signalling apparatus +was brought up to date. The steam-whistle, which had sufficed up to +the date of reconstruction, was replaced by a diaphone of the greatest +power installed up to that time. This is set up about 250 feet south +of the lighthouse, with which it is connected by a covered passage. +The air required to emit the warning blast, lasting three and a half +seconds once in every half-minute, is compressed by the aid of steam. +By day the lighthouse is readily distinguishable from its red and white +vertical stripes, red lantern, and white dwelling with red roof, in +which the keepers have their quarters. To-day the station ranks as +one of the finest in the world, complying in every respect with the +requisitions for one of a first-class character. + +Sable Island is perhaps an even more evil spot in the North Atlantic +than the ill-famed Newfoundland coast. It is a bleak, inhospitable, +crescent-shaped collection of sand-dunes, eighty-five miles due east of +Nova Scotia and lying right in the steamship tracks. A more uninviting +stretch of dry land could not be conceived. Little grows here beyond +a special kind of brush, which appears to flourish in sea-swept +billows of sand. But the obstacle is formidable, being twenty-two +miles in length by a mile in width at its broadest part. This does +not constitute the extent of its dangers--far from it. The island is +slowly but surely being swallowed up by the restless, hissing sea, +with the result that, when one stands on the almost indistinguishable +line where sea meets land, an aspect of white ruffs of foam curl in +all directions as far as the eye can see, where the surf is thundering +over the shoals. I have related the toll that this island of the dead +has exacted from shipping,[A] and now confine myself to describing +the means that have been provided to warn the mariner off its bars. +The Canadian Government maintains two lighthouses, at the western +and eastern extremities respectively, and those entrusted with their +safe-keeping have as lonely an existence as may be conceived. The +welcome face of a stranger never brightens their lives, except when the +relief-boat draws in as far as it dares in the calmest weather, or when +some luckless wretches are snatched from a vessel which has fallen into +the toils of the sand and is doomed. The sea-birds and seals are their +sole companions on this lonely outpost. + + [A] “The Steamship Conquest of the World,” chapter xxi., p. 299. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +THE LIGHT AT THE SOUTHERN END OF BELLE ILE. + +This Canadian beacon throws its rays from a height of 470 feet. In +foggy weather the headland often is obscured by fog, so an auxiliary +light has been provided 346 feet below.] + +The necessity of indicating this death-trap to the mariner was realized +at the end of the seventeenth century, but it was not until 1802 that a +forward step was taken to ease the plight of those who were thrown upon +its shores. Then the province of Nova Scotia voted a sum of £400 or +$2,000, per annum, for the maintenance of a fully-equipped life-saving +station. This sum was too slender to fulfil the purposes conceived, but +in 1827 the Imperial Government, recognizing the humane character of +the enterprise, voted a similar appropriation, which is paid regularly, +or was up to a few years ago, towards its support. When the Dominion of +Canada became an accomplished fact in 1867, by the confederation of the +provinces, the matter was taken up whole-heartedly, and since that date +enormous sums have been expended upon the island for the protection +of shipping and the mitigation of the sufferings of those cast upon its +inhospitable shores. At the present time three life-saving stations and +six relief stations, equipped with the best modern apparatuses, are +maintained, connected by telephone and equipped with a staff of about +twenty men. When the gales are raging and the island is encircled in +a broad band of maddened spray stretching to the horizon, these men +are out patrolling the shore, ready to man the lifeboat upon the first +signals of distress. The life of these lonely workers now is lightened +very appreciably, as the island is fitted with a wireless station, +wherewith the men are able to talk through space with the mainland and +with passing vessels. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +THE NORTH BELLE ILE LIGHTHOUSE. + +The warning flash, thrown from a height of 137 feet, can be seen from a +distance of 17 miles.] + +The west end light has passed through many vicissitudes, and the +keepers have experienced innumerable thrills. At this point the ocean +is devouring the island rapidly. In 1873 the tower was raised in what +was considered a safe position. It was placed some distance from the +water’s edge on a favourable knoll, and thought to be immune from +the gnawing of the sea for many years to come. But Nature disposed +otherwise. The awful winter of 1881 played havoc with the island. One +mighty gale carried away a solid chunk 70 feet wide by nearly 1,400 +feet long. When the summer came, and an inspection was made, fears +were entertained concerning the safety of the lighthouse. The keepers +had observed violent tremblings, for the tower vibrated considerably +under the smashing blows of the waves. Nothing could be done that +summer, and it was hoped that the succeeding winter would be milder, +to enable plans to be prepared for the construction of a new tower in +a safer position. The keepers, however, were urged to keep a sharp eye +on developments, and to be prepared for any emergency. The winter of +1882 proved to be worse than that of the previous year, and the island +suffered more than ever. The keepers and their isolated comrades viewed +the advance of the waves with ill-disguised alarm. Would the island +around the light hold out until the spring? That was the uppermost +thought. Every gale brought the waves nearer, and at last it was +recognized that one good gale would finish matters. So the men prepared +for the emergency. The demolition of the tower commenced, a race +between the waters and human labour. The men worked well and had just +got the superstructure away, when there was a creak, a groan, and a +crash! The foundations, which had been undermined, disappeared into the +Atlantic. In less than ten years the hungry ocean had carried a mile of +Sable Island away. + +[Illustration: + + _By kind permission of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +A MAGNIFICENT CANADIAN LIGHT ON THE PACIFIC COAST. + +An octagonal tower, 127 feet high, built of ferro-concrete.] + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE WEST END GUARDIAN OF SABLE ISLAND, THE GRAVEYARD OF THE ATLANTIC. + +This tower replaces the structure demolished by the waves.] + +In 1888 the present magnificent lighthouse was brought into service. +It is a ferro-concrete tower of octagonal shape rising from a massive +plinth of the same form, and is provided with four equidistantly-spaced +wing buttresses to hold the structure more rigid in rough weather. +The building is set on a knoll rising 20 feet above the water, and +about 2,100 yards east of the extremity of the western dry spit of +land, so that the Atlantic will have to gnaw a considerable distance +before it will render the position of this light untenable. The tower +is 97 feet in height, bringing the white ray 118 feet above the level +of the sea. The light is of the group revolving type, thrown once +every three minutes. The warning is made up of three flashes, with an +eclipse of thirty seconds between each flash, followed by darkness for +ninety seconds, and may be seen sixteen miles away. While the beacon +mounts guard over the main end of the island on one side, there is a +dangerous submerged bar which runs north-westwards and westwards for +seventeen miles. The light at the east end, which was erected in 1873, +is likewise carried on an octagonal tower 81 feet high, but, being set +upon a more commanding position, the beam is elevated to 123 feet. It +is erected five miles south-westwards of the extreme tip of the island, +and gives a white flash at intervals of three seconds, followed by an +eclipse of fifteen seconds; it may be picked up seventeen miles away. +Similarly, this light mounts guard over a submerged sand-bar, which +extends eastwards for at least fourteen miles. + +During the late summer and autumn the majority of the vessels plying +between ports on the St. Lawrence and Europe take the shorter route +round the northern corner of Newfoundland through the Straits +of Belle Ile. This is a highly dangerous passage, inasmuch as the +narrow streak of water, seventy miles in length, with a maximum width +of eleven miles, separating the frowning coasts of Newfoundland +and Labrador, is strewn with menaces, the most formidable of which +is Belle Ile, which lies right in the centre of the entrance from +the ocean. The island is really a lofty hump of rock, twenty-one +miles in circumference, with the shores for the most part dropping +precipitously into the water. It is an extremely lonely spot, and, +naturally, is feared by the mariner. His apprehensions, however, have +been considerably relieved, because the channel is brilliantly lighted +by several powerful lights visible from twelve to twenty-eight miles, +while another is being established. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +ST. ESPRIT ISLAND LIGHT, NOVA SCOTIA. + +Its white revolving light is visible for 14 miles.] + +[Illustration: THE GULL ISLAND LIGHT, NEWFOUNDLAND. + +A very lonely beacon, visible for 27 miles.] + +The beacons are distributed along the shores of Newfoundland, Belle +Ile, and Labrador, one powerful light being placed on Cape Bauld, the +northernmost point of Newfoundland, and another on Cape Norman, another +promontory to the west. These two lights are visible from twenty and +sixteen miles respectively, while on the opposite side of the strait +is Amour Point light, guarding the south-east side of Forteau Bay on +the Labrador shore, which has a range of eighteen miles. Cape Bauld +is the most important mainland beacon, inasmuch as it indicates the +entrance to the Belle Ile Straits. Belle Ile is well protected at its +two extreme tips, the principal light being at the southern end. The +necessity of guiding ships between the island and Newfoundland was +recognized half a century ago, for this light was erected in 1858. It +is perched on the summit of the cliff, 400 feet above the sea, the +occulting light of ten seconds’ duration and five seconds’ eclipse +being thrown from an altitude of 470 feet, rendering it distinguishable +twenty-eight miles away. Unfortunately, however, the extreme elevation +of the light often causes it to be enshrouded in impenetrable banks of +clouds, which drape the headland; so in 1880 an auxiliary light was +established, 346 feet below the upper light. This beam is similar in +character to the one above, and, from its elevation of 124 feet above +the water, it may be picked up from seventeen miles out. Consequently, +in foggy weather the lower light may be seen when the upper beacon is +obscured. This is one of the most important points on the coast, being +a marine telegraph, signal, and ice-report station, while it is also +fitted with wireless telegraphy. An interesting feature in connection +with this light is that it was kept going for three generations by one +family, the Coltons, whose name is legendary in Quebec, and some of +whom were born and died on Belle Ile. + +[Illustration: THE BATISCAN FRONT RANGE LIGHTHOUSE, RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. + +_By courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._] + +[Illustration: ISLE ST. THÉRÈSE UPPER RANGE BACK LIGHTHOUSE, RIVER ST. +LAWRENCE. + +_By courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._] + +The second light, on the northern extremity of the island, to indicate +the northern entrance into the straits, is of recent date, having +been brought into operation in 1905. It is a tower of iron, encased +in a white octagonal reinforced concrete covering capped with a red +polygonal-shaped lantern throwing a flash of half a second once every +eleven seconds from a height of 137 feet, visible from a distance of +seventeen miles. + +Fogs and mists are two great perils peculiar to this northern waterway, +so the splendid lighting arrangements are supported by excellent and +powerful fog-signals. The northern light has a diaphone giving a blare +lasting three and a half seconds every minute, while the southern +station has a siren giving a double tone. First there is a low note of +two and a half seconds followed by silence for two and a half seconds; +then a high note of two and a half seconds and a silent interval of +112½ seconds. This signal is emitted from a point midway between the +upper and lower lights, the air for the blast being compressed by +water-power. Another humane provision is the depot at the southern +station, which is kept stocked with food supplies for the benefit of +shipwrecked mariners. In 1898 a freighter carrying a deck-load of 400 +oxen went ashore beneath this light and became a hopeless wreck. The +crew, realizing the impossibility of saving the animals, fired the +ship, so that the animals were suffocated and bruised, thereby sparing +the inhabitants of the island a deadly risk, and solving the difficult +problem which otherwise would have arisen, had the brutes been drowned +in the ordinary way and their decomposing carcasses cast up on the +beach. In the following year the Dominion liner _Scotsman_ crashed on +to the rocks near the same spot, and likewise became a total loss, with +a death-roll of nine. By dint of great effort the survivors scrambled +ashore, and had a weary trudge of nine miles over a broken, rock-strewn +wilderness to gain the lighthouse station and assistance, arriving in a +famished and exhausted condition, to be tended by the light-keepers and +their families. + +Belle Ile is a lonely station in the fullest sense of the word, +although the keepers are better off now than they were a few years +ago. The straits are busy in the summer, being crowded with shipping, +but with the coming of November all life disappears, and the liners +do not return until the following May or June. The rock is cut off +from the mainland by the masses of ice which pile up in the estuary, +together with the crowds of icebergs which come down from Greenland. +For six months the guardians of the light are isolated from the world +at large, although they have a slender link of communication in the +submarine cable. But the storms and stress of winter often rupture this +line, and, as the wireless installation is closed down when navigation +ceases, the keepers and their families settle down to a silent, weary +vigil, knowing nothing of the rest of the world, and all but forgotten +by civilization, because an interruption in the cable cannot be +repaired until the ice disappears. + +[Illustration: UPPER TRAVERSE LIGHTHOUSE IN THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.] + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +AN “ICE SHOVE” UPON THE BACK RANGE LIGHT IN LAKE ST. PETER. + +This photo gives a striking idea of the trouble experienced with ice in +Canadian waters.] + +Even when the Gulf of the St. Lawrence is entered, the navigator is not +free from peril. The waterway is littered with rocks and islands. Among +these are Coffin Island and Anticosti, the latter being the private +property of M. Henri Ménier, the French chocolate magnate. For many +years the St. Lawrence was a byword to navigation, and wrecks were +numerous. It was shunned by navigators and abhorred by underwriters. +Even to this day the latter regard it askance, and the insurance rates +are high upon vessels trading in these waters. Through the efforts +of the Department of Marine and Fisheries, the Dominion Government +is removing this stigma from their great marine avenue, and their +engineer-in-chief. Lieutenant-Colonel William P. Anderson, to whom I am +indebted for much information concerning the guardians of the Canadian +coasts, has displayed commendable enterprise and ingenuity in combating +the natural odds pitted against human endeavour to render the coasts of +the country more friendly to navigation. + +In the St. Lawrence the great foe is ice. Its onslaughts are terrific, +and none but the strongest works has a chance to survive the enormous +pressure exerted when the ice is on the run after the break of winter. +As is well known, for some five months in the year the river is frozen +so thick and solid that it will support a train. Naturally, when this +armour collapses, and the floes are hurled seawards by the current, +they concentrate their destructive energies upon any obstacles in +their way, piling up in huge masses weighing thousands of tons. It is +no uncommon circumstance for the floes to pack in a jagged heap 50 +feet high, while all the time there is a continual push against the +obstruction. + +Under these circumstances extreme ingenuity has to be displayed in +the erection of the fixed lights. The floating lights, such as buoys, +escape this peril, as they are picked up when navigation ceases, to be +housed in quarters on dry land, and replaced when the river is open +once more. Yet it is not only the ice in itself which causes trouble. +The level of the river rises when the ice is running, and this pressure +alone is enormous, while the scouring action about the foundations +is terrific. The type of structure adopted varies with the situation +and character of the light. The beacons for the aid of navigation, in +common with the practice upon American waterways, are divided into +groups or ranges, and the captain picks out his channel by keeping +these lights and marks in various lines. Maybe four or five lights have +to be brought into line, and accordingly the height of the unit of each +range varies from its fellow. Thus, the front light will be low, that +behind a little higher, and so on, until the last light in the group, +or “back light” of the range, as it is called, is a lofty structure. + +In some places the light is placed in mid-stream, and perhaps +mounted upon a massive, high, steel caisson, resting upon a concrete +foundation, thereby proving immovable to the most powerful of +ice-shoves. Or a large pier carried out in ferro-concrete and pyramidal +in shape is used. In the case of the back light there is a skeleton +tower, which structure is employed to gain the necessary height. +This is carried upon a high, huge, solid plinth of concrete, even +if built against the bank. The frazil ice dams the channel, causing +the water to rise, and unless the foregoing precautions were adopted +widespread damage would result. All the lights between the gulf and +Montreal have to be protected in this manner, so that it will be seen +that the adequate lighting of this waterway bristles with engineering +difficulties of no light character, and is expensive. + +The Canadian Government also is responsible, to a certain extent, +for the lighting of the Great Lakes, which is described in another +chapter, where similar difficulties prevail. It has also a long +stretch of the most rugged part of the Pacific coast to patrol, +aggregating about 600 miles between Victoria and Vancouver to the +Portland Canal, where Canadian meets Alaskan territory. This is a +wicked coast, broken and battered, as well as flanked by an outer +barrier of islands, recalling the Scandinavian Peninsula in its general +topographical characteristics. During the past few years the necessity +of lighting this seaboard adequately has become more pronounced, owing +to the creation of the new port of Prince Rupert, a few miles below +Alaskan territory, where the Grand Trunk Pacific reaches down to +the western sea, and the growing sea-borne traffic with Alaska. The +fact that a large portion of this navigation is maintained through +the inside passages, bristling with sharp turns, narrow defiles, and +jagged headlands, which for the most part are wrapped generally in +fog, renders the lighting problem more intricate. Probably the most +important light, and certainly the loftiest on the Pacific seacoast +north of the Equator, is that on the summit of Triangle Island, +British Columbia. It was built in 1910, and although the lantern itself +is only 46 feet in height, the elevation of the headland brings the +white group-flashing light of 1,000,000 candle-power 700 feet above +the sea, giving it a range of thirty-four miles. Four flashes are +emitted during each ten seconds, each flash lasting 0·28 second with +intervening eclipses each of 1·28 seconds, with an eclipse between each +group of 5·94 seconds. + +Lieutenant-Colonel Anderson has introduced a new type of reinforced +concrete lighthouse with flying buttresses. The latter are not required +for strength, but are utilized to give greater stiffness to the tower, +as a column 100 feet or more in height, no matter how strongly it may +be built, must vibrate and swing in high winds. Yet it is desirable +to keep the lantern as steady as possible, and this is achieved much +more completely upon the above principle. The engineer-in-chief of +the lighthouse authority of the Canadian Government considers this +method of construction to be the last word in lighthouse building, and +has completed some notable works upon these lines. Perhaps the most +important is the Estevan Point light, on the west coast of Vancouver, +at a place known as Hole-in-the-Wall. The tower, of octagonal, tapering +form, is 127 feet in height, and throws a white group-flashing light, +comprising three flashes each of 9·3 seconds with two eclipses, each of +1·37 seconds, and a final eclipse of 6·36 seconds between each group, +seventeen miles out to sea. The surroundings of this station are most +romantic. Landing anywhere in its vicinity is extremely difficult and +dangerous, and the engineer had to select a point about two miles +distant for this purpose. From this place a road and tramway have been +laid through a grand primeval forest, such as is to be found only upon +Vancouver Island, wherein roams a drove of magnificent wild cattle. + +While the Canadian coast cannot point to any lighthouse work comparing +with the Eddystone, Skerryvore, or Heaux de Bréhat, yet its most +powerful beacons are of a commanding character, representing as they +do the latest and best in connection with coast lighting. There is an +enormous stretch of difficult shore to patrol, along which has to +be guided an immense volume of valuable shipping. In addition to the +attended lights, the Government has been extremely enterprising in the +adoption of unattended beacons (described in another chapter), miles +of lonely, inhospitable shore being guarded in this way. Although the +development in this direction is of comparatively recent date, the +protection of maritime trade is being carried out in accordance with +a comprehensive policy, so that within a few years the coasts of the +Dominion will be rendered as safe to the shipping of the world as human +ingenuity can contrive. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +THE MINOT’S LEDGE LIGHT + + +Lovers of Longfellow will recall the poet’s song to the lighthouse, +but how many of his admirers know to what beacon these stirring lines +refer? When they were penned the author had in his mind’s eye an +example of the engineer’s handiwork which ranks as one of the finest +sea-rock lights in existence, worthy of comparison with the most famous +of similar structures scattered throughout the waters washing the Old +World. + +This is the far-famed Minot’s Ledge light, warning the seafarer making +to and from Boston Bay of the terrible peril which lurks beneath the +waves on the southern side of the entrance to this busy indentation. +“Like the great giant Christopher it stands,” a powerful monument to +engineering genius, dogged perseverance against overwhelming odds, and +a grim, bitter contest lasting five weary years between the implacable +elements and human endeavour. The Minot Ledge is one of those jagged +reefs which thrust themselves far out into the sea, studded with +pinnacles and chisel-like edges, which never, or very seldom, protrude +above the waves. Ship after ship fouled this danger spot, either to be +sunk or to be so badly crippled that it barely could contrive to crawl +to safety. + +The prosperity of Boston was threatened by this peril to shipping, and +therefore it is not surprising that a resolution was passed to devise +some ways and means of indicating its presence to those who go down +to the sea in ships. The solution was offered in a skeleton structure +fashioned from iron, which was designed by Captain W. H. Swift, of the +United States Topographical Engineers. He searched the reef through and +through to ascertain the point where the beacon should be placed so as +to prove of the greatest value. This in itself was no simple matter, +inasmuch as Minot’s Ledge is but one of a great area of wicked crags, +which collectively are known as the Cohasset Rocks, and which straggle +over the sea-bed in all directions. After the position had been +reconnoitred thoroughly, and sounding and levels had been taken, the +engineer decided that the most seaward rock of the group, known as the +Outer Minot, would be the most strategical position, and accordingly he +planned to erect his beacon thereon. + +It was a daring proposal, because the reef at the point selected only +exposes some 25 feet of its mass above the falling tide, and then the +highest point of the rock scarcely thrusts itself 3½ feet into the air. +It was realized that the periods of working between the tides would +inevitably be very brief, while even then, owing to the open position +of the ridge, a landing would only be possible in very smooth weather, +and the men would have to suffer exposure to the fury of the waves as +they dashed over the ledge. + +Captain Swift decided upon a skeleton iron structure, not only because +it would be quicker to erect and would cost less, but because it +would offer the least resistance to the waves, which would be free to +expend their energy among the stilts. The task was taken in hand at +the first favourable opportunity, and, the system lending itself to +rapid construction, marked progress was made every time the workmen +succeeded in getting on the ledge. The lantern and keepers’ quarters +were supported upon nine piles, 60 feet above the rock. The legs were +so disposed that eight described the circumference of a circle, while +the ninth constituted the axis. + +This tower was completed in 1848, and for the first time the navigator +making these treacherous waters received a powerful warning to keep +clear of Minot’s Ledge. For three years the beacon survived the +battering of wind and wave, but its welcome beam was last seen on the +night of April 16, 1851. In the spring of that year a gale of terrific +fury beat upon the Massachusetts coast. The wind freshened on April +13; the next day it rose to its full force, and did not abate for +four days. The good people of Boston grew apprehensive concerning the +plight of the two keepers of the lonely Minot’s light, but, however +willing they might have been to have put out to the beacon, they were +absolutely impotent before the ferocity of the elements. Time after +time the light vanished from sight as it was enveloped in an angry +curling mountain of water. On April 17 the doleful tolling of the +lighthouse bell was heard, but the light was never seen again. The +structure had slipped completely from sight, together with its faithful +keepers, swallowed by the hungry Atlantic. Evidently the wail of the +bell was a last plea for assistance, because no doubt the lighthouse +had bowed to the storm and was tottering when the tolling rang out. But +the call brought no help; it was the funeral knell of the guardians of +the beacon. When the sea went down a boat pushed off to the ledge, and +all that was seen were a few bent piles. Captain Swift had done his +work well. The waves could not tear his beacon up by the roots, so had +snapped off the piles like carrots, and had carried away the lantern. + +[Illustration: THE MINOT’S LEDGE LIGHT. + +Marking the rock off Boston Harbour, it is one of the greatest works +completed by the lighthouse builders of the United States. It forms the +theme of Longfellow’s well-known poem.] + +This sensational disaster, after a brief existence of three years, +did not augur well for the permanence of a light upon this precarious +ledge. The Outer Minot appeared to be determined to continue its +plunder of ships, cargoes, and lives, untrammelled. Accordingly, for +three years no effort was made to bring about its subjugation. + +In 1855 General Barnard, one of the most illustrious engineers which +the United States has ever produced, brought forward the plans for a +structure which he thought would resist the most formidable attacks of +wind and wave. He took Rudyerd’s famous Eddystone tower as his pattern. +This was perhaps the strongest design that could be carried out against +the sea, having one weak point only--it was built of wood. General +Barnard contemplated a similar structure for Minot’s Ledge, but in +masonry. + +The Lighthouse Board, which had recently been inaugurated to control +the lighthouses around the coasts of the country, examined the idea +minutely, and submitted the design to the most expert criticism and +discussion, but all were so impressed with its outstanding features +that they decided to support it whole-heartedly. A minute survey of the +rock was prepared, and the plans were straight away perfected for the +preparation of the masonry on shore. So carefully was this work carried +out, that, with the exception of a few blocks of masonry constituting +the foundations, which had to be prepared on the site, and some slight +variations in the method of construction, the original ideas were +fulfilled. + +Work was commenced in 1855, the building operations being placed in the +hands of B. S. Alexander, at that time Lieutenant of Engineers, and +the successful completion of the work was due in a very great measure +to his ability and ingenuity, because the whole undertaking was placed +in his hands and he had to overcome difficulties at every turn as they +arose. + +The builder was handicapped in every way. First there was the brief +period in which operations could be carried out upon the site, the +working season extending only from April 1 to September 15 in each +year. This is not to say that the masons were able to toil upon the +rock continuously every day during this interval--far from it. In order +to get the foundations laid there were three essentials--a perfectly +smooth sea, a dead calm, and low spring-tides. Needless to say, it was +on very rare occasions indeed that these three requirements were in +harmony. As a matter of fact, they could occur only about six times +during every lunar month--three times during full moon, and three at +the change. Even then, either the wind or the sea intervened to nullify +the benefits arising from the lowest tides. So much so that, although +work commenced at daybreak on Sunday, July 1, 1855, only 130 working +hours were possible upon the rock before labours ceased for the season +in the middle of the following September. + +[Illustration: TENDER LANDING BUILDING MATERIAL UPON THE TILLAMOOK ROCK. + +A derrick has been provided to facilitate these operations, while a +stairway leads from the landing point to the lighthouse.] + +On gaining the rock, Lieutenant Alexander decided to make use of +the holes which had been driven into the granitic mass by Captain +Swift to receive the piles of the previous structure. The twisted +and broken pieces of iron were withdrawn and the holes cleaned out. +Simultaneously the upper surface of the rock was pared and trimmed by +the aid of chisels, which was no easy task, because at times the masons +were compelled to manipulate their tools as best they could in two +or three feet of water. This preparation of the rock to receive the +base constituted one of the most notable features of the work. In the +greater number of other outstanding achievements upon sea-rocks the +surface of the latter has been above the waves at lowest spring-tides, +whereas in this case a great part of the foundation work was +continuously submerged. + +This preparation of the rock-face necessitated the final trimming and +shaping upon the site of many of the masonry blocks forming the root of +the tower. They could not possibly be prepared ashore to bring about +the tight fit which was imperative. Accordingly, all but the bottom +faces of the blocks were prepared in the depot on the mainland, and +they were then shipped to the ledge for final paring and trimming. + +The attachment of the bottom courses to the rock-face was carried +out very ingeniously. Bags of sand were brought on to the rock and +laid around the spot upon which a particular block of stone was to be +laid. The sacks, being filled with sand, were pliable, so that, when +deposited, they adapted themselves to the contour of the ledge, and +prevented the water making its way in under the rampart. The water +within this small dam was then removed, sponges being used in the +final emptying task, so as to suck out the salt sea from the cracks +and crevices, leaving the surface on which the block of stone was to +be laid quite dry. A film of cement was then trowelled upon the rock +surface, and upon this was laid a sheet of muslin. The inclusion of the +muslin was a wise precaution, because while the work was in progress +a wandering wave was liable to curl over the rock, swamping the small +dried space, when, but for the presence of the muslin, the cement +would have been carried away. At the same time the cement was able to +penetrate the meshes of the muslin when the stone was deposited, so as +to grip the surface of the latter and to hold it tightly in position. + +Under such abnormal conditions of working the masons had many exciting +moments. No matter how smooth was the sea, several renegade waves +would plunge over the ledge. The masons had to be prepared for these +unwelcome visitors, and precautions had to be introduced to prevent +them being washed off their slender foothold. A substantial iron +staging was erected over the working area on the rock, to facilitate +the handling of the building material. A number of ropes were attached +to this staging, the free ends of which dangled beside the workmen. +These were the life-lines, one being provided for each man. A lookout +was posted, who, when he saw a wave approaching and bent upon sweeping +the rock, gave a shrill signal. Instantly each workman dropped his +tools, clutched his life-line tightly, threw himself prostrate on the +rock, and allowed the wave to pass over him. The situation certainly +was uncomfortable, and the men often toiled in soddened clothes, but +an involuntary bath was preferable to the loss of a life or to broken +limbs. + +Work advanced so slowly that during the first two years, which were +devoted to the excavation of the pit and the preparations of the +rock-face, only 287 hours’ work were accomplished. In the third year +this task was completed, and four stones laid in a further 130 hours +21 minutes. By the end of the working season of 1859 twenty-six +courses were finished, so that, while the volume of work fulfilled in +1,102 hours 21 minutes, and spread over five years, certainly was not +imposing, it was remarkable under the circumstances. + +The stones for the foundations were sent from shore with the indication +-3’ 5”, -2’ 9”, -1’ 3”, and so on, indicating that these stones were +prepared for positions 3 feet 5 inches, 2 feet 9 inches, and so on, +below zero. And the zero mark was 21 inches below water! Above the zero +mark the stones were prefixed by a “plus” sign. + +The shaft is purely conical, and solid except for a central well +extending from the foundations up to the level of the entrance. The +successive courses of stones were secured to one another, and each +stone was attached to its neighbour in the ring by the aid of heavy +iron dogs, so that the lower part of the shaft forms a practically +solid homogenous mass. What are known as continuous “dowels” were +sunk through each course of masonry into the holes in the solid +rock prepared by Captain Swift for his skeleton light, this further +attachment of the mass to the ledge being continued until the twelfth +course was gained. Thus additional security is obtained by anchoring +the tower firmly to the reef. + +The solid portion of the building is 40 feet in height from the level +of the first complete ring of stones, and the tower is 80 feet high +to the lantern gallery. The over-all height to the top of the lantern +cupola is 102¾ feet, while the focal plane is 84½ feet above mean +high-water. The first stone was laid on July 9, 1857, while the masons +completed their duties on June 29, 1860, so that five years were +occupied upon the work. In erection 3,514 tons of rough and 2,367 tons +of hammered stone, in addition to 1,079 numbered stones, were used, and +the total cost, including the light-keepers’ houses on the mainland, +was £60,000, or $300,000, so that it ranks among the more costly lights +which have been provided for the seafarer’s benefit. + +On November 15, 1860, nine and a half years after the destruction of +the first beacon, the light was once more thrown from Minot’s Ledge for +the benefit of passing ships. The light is of the second order, visible +fourteen and three-quarter miles out to sea, and is of the flashing +type, signalling “143” every thirty seconds thus--one flash followed by +three seconds’ darkness, four flashes with three seconds’ eclipse, and +three flashes with an interval of fifteen seconds’ darkness. + +The tower has been subjected to repeated prodigious assaults, the +north-east gales in particular thundering upon this reef with +tremendous fury, but it has withstood all attacks with complete +success. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +THE TILLAMOOK ROCK LIGHT-STATION + + +While the Northern Pacific Ocean is the loneliest stretch of salt water +in the world, yet it possesses one or two busy corners. Prominent among +the latter is that where it washes the shores of the United States +around the entrance to the mighty Columbia River. The estuary is wide, +and, although navigation is handicapped by a bar, it is well protected. +But coming up from the south there is a stretch of terribly forbidding +coastline, with the cliffs at places towering 1,500 feet or more into +the air and dropping sheer into the water. Rock-slides are of frequent +occurrence, and the beach is littered with heavy falls from above. Here +and there protuberances rise from the sea, formed of rock sufficiently +dense and hard to withstand more effectively the process of erosion, +only to constitute fearful menaces to navigation. Often the mainland +is completely obscured, either by streaks of mist or heavy clouds of +smoke produced by forest fires, which in the dry season rage with great +violence. A ship caught within the toils of this stern coast has no +possible chance of escape, while the crew would find it difficult to +get ashore, inasmuch as at places there is not a single landing-place +within a distance of twenty miles. + +Owing to the coast being frequently blotted from view, and to the fact +that this stretch of sea is swept by furious storms, the plight of +the mariner making to or from the Columbia River became exceedingly +precarious. The worst tragedy of these waters was enacted on the dark +and stormy night of January 3, 1881, when the sailing-ship _Lupata_ +lost her way and went to pieces on the rocks off Tillamook Head. + +Under these circumstances it is not surprising that an outcry arose +for protection along this lonely reach of Oregon’s jagged shoreline. +The authorities responded to the agitation by the promise to erect +a lighthouse, once they should have decided the site, which was the +really perplexing question. In the first instance it was thought that +its location upon the mainland would suffice, but a survey betrayed +the futility of such a choice. The light would be too elevated to be +of any service; for the greater part of its time it would be rendered +invisible by land fogs. Then, again, it would mean cutting a road for a +distance of twenty miles through heavy, undulating country and primeval +forest to gain the point, as the verdant sea of green timber extends to +the very brink of the cliffs. + +After prolonged consideration, it was decided to erect the light upon +the Tillamook Rock. This is a hard mass of basalt, rising boldly from +the water to a height of 120 feet, which, when viewed from one side, +presented the appearance of a clenched fist. It stands about a mile +off the mainland, twenty miles south of the Columbia River mouth, and +drops plumb into the sea, where the lead gives readings ranging from +96 to 240 feet. The whole area of the rock is less than one acre, and +it is split almost in two; another isolated knot of basalt, upon which +the seas break heavily when a storm is raging, rears its shaggy head +into the air near by at low-tide. The only possible landing-point is +on the east side, where there is a beach sloping upwards sharply from +the water to the crest. When the ocean is roused the sight certainly is +terrifying. The waves fall with shivering force upon the base of the +rock, to rush up its ragged sides and sweep right over its crest in a +dense curtain of angrily frothing water and whipping spray. + +Despite its fearsome character, this rock constituted the most +serviceable situation for a light, for the reason that, being a mile +from the shore, it was free from land fogs and clouds. The decision +of the authorities depended upon three factors only--that a landing +could be made, the rock occupied, and the requisite building materials +unloaded. The introduction of such a saving clause was politic, +because at first it seemed as if the rock would defy the gaining of +a foothold. The ghastly failure attending the survey, as described in +a previous chapter, brought public opinion into dead opposition to +the project, and many fearsome stories were circulated sedulously up +and down the coast and among the towns fringing the Columbia River +concerning the perils, hardships, and terrible death-roll, which would +attend any attempt to place a beacon on this rock. + +After the disaster the authorities pressed forward the enterprise with +greater vigour than ever, so as to get work well under way before +public opinion would be able to make its influence felt upon the +unsophisticated minds of workmen required to carry out the undertaking. +A daring, determined, and energetic leader was secured in Mr. A. +Ballantyne, and he was deputed to rally a force of eight or more highly +skilled quarrymen with whom to proceed to Astoria, where the land +headquarters were to be established. He was informed that upon arrival +at this point he would find everything in readiness for his immediate +departure to the rock, with all essentials to enable him to commence +work at once and to provide quarters for the workmen, who would be +compelled to suffer isolation and a certain amount of discomfort for +weeks at a time. It was impossible to take more than a handful of men +at first, owing to the difficulty of landing provisions. + +Mr. Ballantyne started off with his small picked force, reached +Astoria on September 24, 1879, and there suffered his first check. The +autumn gales had sprung up, rendering approach to the rock absolutely +hopeless. There was no alternative; he must wait until the weather +moderated. As this might be a question of a few hours, days, or perhaps +a week or two, the chief grew anxious concerning his force. If the men, +having nothing to do, wandered idly about the town, making acquaintance +with all and sundry and listening to gossip, then they could not fail +to be impressed with the extraordinary stories concerning dangers, +hardships, perils, and adventures; would conclude that the Tillamook +was a “hoodoo” rock; and would desert him promptly. To guard against +this contingency, the quarrymen were hurried off and temporarily housed +in the old light-keeper’s dwelling at the Cape Disappointment light, +some miles away on the northern portal of the estuary, where they were +safe from pernicious influences. + +[Illustration: THE TILLAMOOK ROCK LIGHT STATION FROM THE SOUTH. + +Rising from the sea one mile off the Oregon Coast, it was for years a +terrible danger spot. The light of 160,000 candle-power, 132 feet above +high water, is visible for 18 miles.] + +After twenty-six days of enforced idleness the squad was picked up by a +revenue cutter, which steamed to the rock, and made fast to a buoy that +had been laid previously for mooring the vessels deputed to transport +building materials and other requirements. With extreme difficulty four +men were got on the rock, together with a supply of hammers, drills, +iron ring-bolts, a stove, provisions, supplies, and an abundance of +canvas, with which the advance staff were to erect temporary shelters +and to make themselves as comfortable as they could. While the work +was in progress the wind freshened, the swell rose, and the boat had +to retire hurriedly before the remainder of the force could be landed; +but five days later they were transferred to the rock, together with +further provisions and supplies, as well as a derrick. + +The little party soon received a taste of what life would be in this +lonely spot. Three days after the second landing, and before they had +shaken down to their strange surroundings, a gale sprang up. Heavy seas +pounded the rock, and the waves, mounting its vertical face, threw +themselves over its crest, drenching the workmen and their sleeping +blankets. It was a startling episode, but it became so frequent that +the quarrymen became inured to their fate, and were not perturbed in +any way, except when the Pacific was roused to exceptional fury. + +When the first four men gained the rock it was seen that the landing +of material, especially the heavier incidentals, would constitute the +greatest difficulty. Then an ingenious idea was advanced. Why not rig +a heavy rope between the mast of the vessel and the top of the rock, +draw it taut, and devise a traveller to run to and fro? It was a +practical suggestion and was adopted forthwith. With much difficulty +a 4½-inch rope was towed from the vessel--to the mast of which one +end was secured--to the rock, and grabbed by those in occupation. +This end was anchored firmly, and constituted the track. Then a large +single block was rigged to this main line in such a way that it could +move freely to and fro along the cable. This block was provided with a +heavy hook on which the weights could be slung. Other blocks were fixed +on the vessel and on the rock, while an endless line, passing through +these blocks at each end, and attached to the shank of the hook on the +travelling block, enabled the traveller to be pulled freely and easily +in either direction. + +Both men and supplies were transferred from ship to shore by this +primitive, albeit ingenious, system. The men were carried in a novel +device, described as a “breeches-buoy,” such as is used with the rocket +life-saving apparatus, but of very crude design improvised on the spot. +It was contrived from an ordinary circular rubber life-preserver, to +which a pair of trousers cut short at the knees were lashed tightly. +This was suspended from the block-hook by means of three short lengths +of rope. The trip through the air certainly was novel, and not free +from excitement; indeed, there was just sufficient spice of adventure +about it to appeal to the rough-and-ready, intrepid spirits who +constituted the forces of the lighthouse engineer. Also, owing to the +primitive character of the apparatus, there was just the chance that +something would go wrong when the man was between ship and rock. The +breeches were provided to hold the man in a safe position while in the +air, to guard against a loss of balance and tipping out; while should +anything give way, and the man make an unexpected plunge into the +water, the life-preserver would keep him afloat until a boat could draw +alongside to rescue him. + +[Illustration: THE CONQUEST OF THE TILLAMOOK. + +The top of the crag was blasted off to provide a level space for the +lighthouse.] + +[Illustration: THE TERRIBLE TILLAMOOK ROCK. + +Showing how the menace rises abruptly from the sea on one side.] + +There was another factor which had to be taken into consideration, and +which certainly contributed to the novelty of the trip. As the boat +responded to the action of the waves the rope alternately drew tight +and sagged. When she rolled towards the rock the cable was slackened, +and the man generally had a ducking; the next moment, when the vessel +rolled in the opposite direction, he was whisked unceremoniously and +suddenly into the air. It was like being suspended at the end of a +piece of elastic. The men for the most part enjoyed the fun of the +journey, and considered it a new and exhilarating “divarshun.” Among +themselves the effort was to travel in either direction so as to escape +a cold douche on the journey. When the water was rough, speculation +took the form of guessing how many dips into the water would be made +before either terminus was gained. + +This novel landing method provoked one amusing incident. The +supply-boat came out to the rock one day bringing a new raw hand. +The cableway was rigged up, and the workman prepared for his ride +to the rock. But the man was somewhat corpulent, and could not be +thrust through the preserver. This was an unexpected _contretemps_, +and it seemed as if the superintendent would have to let his recruit +return. But Ballantyne did not worry over trifles, neither did he +relish the idea of losing a hand after having him brought so far, so +he put forward a somewhat daring proposal. He told the captain of the +steamer to lash the workman to the top of the buoy, and they would +pull him ashore all right. The labourer was scared out of his wits at +this suggestion, and resented being handled as if he were a balk of +timber. Why, even the perishable articles were unloaded in casks to +protect them from the wet. He expressed his determination to see them +to perdition before he would make a trip through the air under such +conditions. Ballantyne was somewhat crestfallen at the cold reception +of his brilliant idea, so told the captain to take the workman back to +Astoria, and to ransack the place to discover a buoy which would be big +enough to fit him. + +Two days later the vessel returned with the larger buoy and also the +corpulent quarryman. His second glimpse of the primitive travelling +frightened him worse than ever, and he point blank refused to budge. +In order to reassure the raw hand, Ballantyne hauled the buoy ashore, +and, jumping into it, made a journey, to illustrate that the system was +perfectly safe, and that one need not even get wet. But Ballantyne’s +demonstration was rather unfortunate. The cable was slack, and the +ship rolled heavily. Result: the superintendent was dragged through +the water for nearly the whole distance, and at times nothing of him +could be seen. When he landed on the boat, half-winded and drenched to +the skin, the quarryman was scared more than ever, and announced his +intention to return to Astoria. Ballantyne cajoled, coaxed, argued, +and stormed, in turn, but to no avail. Then another idea came to his +fertile mind. If the man would not travel via the breeches-buoy, +why not send him ashore in a bos’n’s chair? This was rigged up +satisfactorily, and therein the workman consented to go ashore, though +not without the display of considerable trepidation and anxiety to +keep out of the water. They got him on the rock safely, and without so +much as wetting the soles of his feet. The quarryman by his resolute +opposition set up a record. He was the first man to land dry on the +Tillamook. + +Subsequently this novel and, so far as it went, efficient method of +“quick transit” was superseded when the men on the rock got their big +derrick to work. The long arm of this appliance leaned over the water +far enough to pick up the goods direct from the deck of the vessel +moored off the rock. This system was quicker, and enabled the goods to +be got ashore unsoiled. + +The first men to land found the rock in the occupation of sea-lions, +who swarmed its scaly sides in huge numbers, even making their way to +the crest to bask in the sunshine. These tenants at first resented the +white man’s invasion, and were somewhat troublesome; but at last they +recognized that their eviction was certain, so suddenly deserted in a +body to another equally wild spot farther south. + +The first task was the preparation of the site for the building. The +fist-like overhanging crest was attacked to prepare a foundation, +thereby reducing the height from 120 to 91 feet. The rock surface was +scarred and riven in a fantastic manner, owing to the scouring action +of the waves eroding the soft portions leaving the hard rock behind in +the form of needles, scales, and ugly crevices. The outer part of the +rock, moreover, was found to be of an unreliable character, being more +or less rotten, while the core, on the other hand, was intensely hard, +and promised an excellent foundation for the beacon. The superfluous +mass was removed by blasting, this being carried out with extreme care +and in small sections at a time. The largest blasts did not remove +more than 130 cubic yards, or tons, of débris at one time. This slow +blasting, by handfuls as it were, was necessary so as not to shatter or +impair the solidity of the heart of the rock, which was to support the +buildings. + +Drilling and blasting were carried out in the face of great +difficulties. Rain, rough seas, spray, and heavy winds, combined +to thwart the little band of workers toiling strenuously in solemn +loneliness upon this bleak crag. Often days would pass without any +tangible impression being made upon the surface. The drilling holes +would be swamped, and unless care was observed the powder charges ran +the risk of being damped and rendered impotent or uncertain in firing. +In the attack upon the crest the workmen distributed themselves around +the crown. On the precipitous side, as there was not a friendly ledge +on which to secure a foothold to work the drills, bolts were driven +into the rock-face, from which staging was suspended by ropes, and +on this swinging, crazy foothold the men drove their tools with salt +fleece whirling round them. + +Until the men were able to erect more or less permanent quarters, their +plight at times was pitiable. The canvas was cut up and an A-tent was +rigged up. It was a cramped home, measuring 16 feet long by 6 feet +wide, while the ridge pole was only 4½ feet above the ground. This +domicile just held the ten men in their sleeping-blankets. Naturally, +they had to crawl rather than walk about, and, as the shelter served +as a dining-room as well, the little band had to tolerate many +discomforts. When the wind howled round the rock, causing the canvas to +flap violently and threatening to carry it away at every turn, when the +sea swarmed over the rock, and when the heavy rains to which this coast +is subject poured down pitilessly, the men never knew what it was to +have dry clothing or bedding. Cooking was carried on in the open, and +the kitchen arrangements had to be shifted from time to time, according +to the direction of the wind, so that the fire was brought on the lee +side of the shelter. + +The workers were exposed to danger on all sides incessantly, but +fortunately in their chief, Ballantyne, they had one of those men who +appear to be made for such contingencies; who was alert, ready for +any emergency, nursed his staff sedulously, and whose buoyant spirits +dispelled all feelings of gloom, loneliness, or homesickness. The +little band toiled hard and long through the rough autumnal weather, +and the arrival of stern winter did not bring any cessation in their +labours. They fought the rock grimly and ignored hardship. Certainly, +they were cheered by the arrival of the boats with supplies, but +occasionally a fortnight or more would pass without a call being made +at the rock, and often, when a boat did come up and prepare to land +material, it had to slip its anchor hastily to make a frantic run for +safety before the rising swell and the gathering storm. + +Early in January Nature concentrated her forces, as if bent upon a +supreme effort to shake the determination and courage of the little +army striving so valiantly upon the rock. On the night of New Year’s +Day the clouds assumed an ominous appearance, and accordingly the +workmen were not surprised to meet a stormy and rainy reception +when they made their way to their duties the following morning. The +weather grew worse on the third day, the spray enveloping the rock +and drenching the men, while the wind blew so fiercely that they +could scarcely keep their feet. During the next two days it increased +in force, while the sea grew angrier. On the 6th the elements were +raging in torment, and in the afternoon Ballantyne, taking stock of +the meteorological signs, came to the conclusion that the party “were +in for it.” A hurricane, or possibly a tornado, was looming. The +tools were being swung with infinite difficulty, when suddenly came +the signal “Stop work!” Ballantyne urged them to set to at once to +lash everything securely. At six o’clock in the evening the hurricane +burst, and the workmen witnessed a sight such as they had never seen +before. The whole coast was in the grip of a tornado, of which the +Tillamook Rock was the vortex, whereon the elements concentrated their +destructive forces. The huge rollers assumed an uglier appearance than +ever; the broken water rushed up the steep sides into the air, where +it was caught by the whirling wind and dashed on the tiny camp. It was +impossible to escape that savage attack, as it was driven home from +all sides simultaneously. The men took to their permanent quarters in +silence and very gloomy. By midnight the roof was being peppered with +huge masses of rock, which, detached by the waves, were caught up and +thrown clean over the rock. Ballantyne urged the men to stay in their +bunks, to keep up their spirits, and to seek a little rest. + +[Illustration: FAMOUS UNITED STATES LIGHTHOUSES OF TWO CENTURIES. + +The rear tower was built on Cape Henry in 1789, with stones shipped +from Great Britain. Owing to the sand thrown up by the sea, another +light had to be provided nearer the water, and was completed in 1879. +The old light is retained as an historic building.] + +But sleep was impossible. The quarrymen were scared out of their +wits, and there was every cause for their dismay. It seemed as if +the very rock itself must succumb to the savage onslaught. The din +was deafening; the rock shivered and trembled as the breakers hurled +themselves upon it. + +It had just turned two. Suddenly one and all sat up in terror. There +was a fearful crash--a rending and splitting, which was heard plainly +above the weird howling of the hurricane. The men tumbled out of their +bunks panic-stricken, and were about to stampede from their shelter +to seek refuge upon a higher ledge. But Ballantyne’s pluck asserted +itself. He, too, had been scared by the awful noise, but he collected +his scattered wits more quickly than did his comrades. He grasped the +situation, and with iron nerve commanded all the men to stick tightly +where they were. An ugly rush seemed imminent, but he stood with his +back to the door, and in plain English dared the men to leave their +cover. Any man who attempted to fight his way to the upper refuge would +be swept overboard by the wind and sea. + +The quarrymen were not cowards, and Ballantyne’s action steadied them. +Then the foreman announced his intention to go out to see what had +happened. He grabbed a storm-lantern and opened the door. Instantly he +was hurled back by the wind and sea, which appeared to be submerging +the rock. For two hours he stood waiting an opportunity to slip out +against the hurricane. At last he succeeded, and in the intense +darkness endeavoured to grope his way over the rock. He had been gone +only a few minutes when he staggered back, battered, shaken, and almost +exhausted. He could not make headway against the gale. So the men sat +down and silently waited the approach of dawn. Then they found that +the rushing waves had fallen upon the building in which all their +supplies were stored, had smashed it to atoms, and had destroyed and +carried away nearly all the provisions, the fresh-water tank, and other +articles, although the requisites for work were left untouched. It was +the break-up of this storehouse which had woke them from their slumbers +and had provoked the panic. + +For ten days the gale raged, being more furious on some days than +others. When it decreased in fury the men were able to settle to their +work for an hour or two, but progress was painfully slow; on other days +not a tool could be picked up. On the 18th the revenue cutter came +out from Astoria to ascertain how the men had weathered the tornado, +and the signal for coal and provisions was answered immediately by +the lowering of a surf-boat. The sailors had a stiff pull to reach +the rock, found that the men still had a scanty supply of hard bread, +coffee, and bacon--this was all--and, taking off the letters, promised +to send supplies immediately. The construction ship also came up; the +captain sent ashore all the provisions he could spare, and undertook to +return at once with a full supply. But another ten days passed before +the sea went down enough to permit these to be landed, together with +five more men. + +[Illustration: THE RACE ROCK LIGHT. + +It marks a dangerous reef in Long Island Sound, where, owing to the +swift currents, construction of the foundations proved very difficult.] + +Nature appeared to capitulate after this terrible assault, and work +proceeded rapidly. The crest of the rock was removed and levelled off, +to form an excellent platform for the reception of the beacon and other +buildings. An inclined tramway was excavated out of the rock-face, +communicating with the landing-stage, to facilitate the haulage of +the light-keepers’ necessities, and then the arrangements for the +completion of the building were hurried forward. + +When the public saw that the work was being accomplished without loss +to life or limb, and that the plucky little party of toilers weathered +the gales, an intense interest was manifested in the undertaking. The +foreman was provided with an international code of signals, and passing +vessels, as an act of courtesy and in recognition of the work that was +being done to further their safety, always stood towards the rock to +render assistance in case it was required. The workmen appreciated this +feeling, and on two occasions, during dense fog, intimated to captains +who had lost their way, and were groping blindly round the rock, that +they were venturing into dangerous waters. The warning was primitive +but effective. It comprised the explosion of giant-powder cartridges +over the sea in the direction whence the ships’ sirens sounded. In both +instances the navigators heard the signals in the nick of time, and +were able to steer clear. + +The lighthouse itself comprises a group of buildings for the keepers, +from which rises a square tower 48 feet in height, bringing the light +132 feet above mean high-water. The dwelling is built of stone, +measures 48 feet by 45 feet, and is one story in height. In addition +there is an extension for housing the powerful siren and its machinery. +The building contains adequate living-quarters, together with storage +rooms and a kitchen. As this light is particularly lonely, four keepers +are stationed on the rock, and their rooms each have a clear length of +12 feet by 10 feet wide. Also, as the rock is so difficult to approach, +and relief may suffer extreme delay from adverse weather, sufficient +provisions are stored to insure full rations for six months. + +The light is of the first order, of 160,000 candle-power, and is +visible at a distance of eighteen miles in clear weather. It is a +brilliant white flashing beam, occurring once every five seconds, the +flash being of two seconds, followed by an eclipse of three seconds. +The fog-siren is likewise of the first order, driven by steam-engines. +This plant is in duplicate, and the signal is given every forty-five +seconds, the blast being of five seconds, followed by silence for forty +seconds. + +The conquest of the Tillamook Rock has been one of the most difficult +tasks that the United States Lighthouse Board ever has accomplished. +The little band of quarrymen who braved danger, hardship, and +privation, effected occupation of the rock on October 21, 1879, and +the light was exhibited for the first time on January 21, 1881, the +total time occupied in the task being 575 days. It has robbed the +dreaded Oregon coast of one of its worst perils, and the money which +was devoted to the provision of this stalwart guardian--£24,698, or +$123,493--was indeed expended to good purpose. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE COAST LIGHTS OF THE UNITED STATES + + +Few nations have such a varied coastline to guard as the United States. +On the Atlantic seaboard the northern shore is a shaggy bold rampart of +lofty cliff, hard and pitiless. Farther south the rock gradually gives +way to sandy dunes, which the hungry sea is continually gnawing away +here and piling up somewhere else. Then, as the tropics are entered, +the sand in turn gives way to coral reefs, every whit as formidable as +rock and as treacherous as sand, where the hurricane reigns supreme +and makes its presence felt only too frequently. Across the continent +a similar variation, though not perhaps so intense, is observable on +the Pacific side. The coast range runs parallel with the shore, and +consequently cliff and precipice are common, owing to the lateral spurs +of the range coming to an abrupt termination where land and water meet. + +The result is that no one type of beacon is possible of adoption as +a standard for the whole coastline. The class of structure has to be +modified to meet local conditions, but the battle between destruction +and preservation is none the less bitter and continuous. When ships +began to trade with the Atlantic seaboard of the United States, the +erection of warning lights became imperative. This duty was fulfilled +in the early days by local enterprise, and the first lighthouse on +the continent was built on Little Brewster Island, at the entrance to +Boston Harbour. It was completed about 1716, was a conical masonry +tower, and its cost, which is interesting as being set out to the +uttermost farthing--£2,285 17s. 8½d.--betrays the scrupulous commercial +integrity of the first financiers of the United States. The light was +maintained by the levy of a due of one penny per ton on all incoming +and outgoing vessels, except those engaged in coastal traffic, and was +collected by the same authority which subsequently got into trouble in +the endeavour to collect the tax on tea. This pioneer light is still +in service, although in 1783 it was rebuilt. The light, of the second +order, is 102 feet above mean high-water, and gives a white flash every +thirty seconds, which is visible from a distance of sixteen miles; the +fog-signal is a first-class siren, giving a blast of five seconds, +followed by silence for ten seconds, with a succeeding blast of five +seconds and silence for forty seconds. + +The excellent example thus set by the good people of Boston was +followed by other States and individual authorities along the +coast. This system of local and arbitrary control was by no means +satisfactory, so in 1789 the Federal Government took over the control +of the lighthouse service, and entrusted its safe-keeping to the +Secretary of the Treasury. There were only eight lights to watch when +the cession was effected, but the growth of the country soon increased +the duties of the department. Accordingly, a decree was passed in 1817 +whereby the control was transferred from the Secretary of the Treasury +to the fifth auditor of the same department, Mr. Stephen Pleasanton, +who became known as the General Superintendent of Lights. He assumed +the new office in 1820, taking over fifty-five lights, so that during +the thirty years the aids to navigation had been under the jurisdiction +of the Secretary of the Treasury forty-seven new stations had been +established. + +The new official held the post for thirty-two years, and prosecuted +his work so diligently and systematically that by 1852 the service +had grown to 325 lighthouses, lightships, buoys, and other guides. +The lighthouses were maintained under contract, the contractor for +each light undertaking for a fixed annual sum to keep his charge in a +perfect state of repair, to supply all illuminant, wicks, chimneys, +and stores, that were required, as well as making one visit to the +lighthouse in the course of the year. Subsequently it became necessary +to award the contracts for terms of five years. + +[Illustration: THE CARQUINEZ STRAIT LIGHT. + +An imposing station on the north side of the entrance to the Strait.] + +As time progressed, and the duties of the Superintendent became more +onerous, certain individuals took exception to the idea of such an +important service being entrusted to the charge of one man, vested with +wide discretionary powers. Accordingly, complaints were formulated +liberally, and the superintendent became the butt of venomous attack. +The outcome of this agitation was the formation of a committee, two +members of which were sent upon a mission of inspection to Great +Britain and France, the lighthouse services of which were stated to +be far superior to that of the United States, and more efficiently +controlled. The result of this investigation was the inauguration of +an official department known as the Lighthouse Board, constituted of +capable engineers. In 1852 this authority took over the administration +of the light service, which has remained under its control ever since. +In order to secure the utmost efficiency, the coasts were divided into +districts, each of which is presided over by an accomplished officer of +the United States Corps of Engineers, who is held directly responsible +to the Board at Washington for the lights in his area. So admirably +was the new authority constituted that it has never failed to give the +utmost satisfaction, and the result is that to-day the Lighthouse Board +of the United States is comparable with contemporary authorities in the +Old World. + +In the early days the majority of the lights were placed on the +mainland, and as a rule comprised wooden towers, projecting from +the roof of the keepers’ dwelling, similar in character to some of +the older lights to be found on the coasts of Newfoundland and New +Brunswick in Canada. These buildings were cheap to construct, as they +were carried out upon the timber-frame principle; but they possessed +many disadvantages. The greatest objection arose from the attachment +of the tower to the roof frames of the house. Being exposed to the +full fury of the tempest, the tower in time would become loosened, +and the roof itself distorted, so that the inmates had to suffer the +inconvenience of water penetrating into their rooms. Even the +few masonry towers which were erected were of the most primitive +description, and soon fell victims to the ravages of the weather. + +Accordingly, when the lighthouse administration was placed upon an +efficient footing, the first task was the complete overhaul, and +reconstruction where necessary, of many of the existing lights. Of +the eight beacons which were taken over by the Federal Government in +1789, six have been rebuilt. The only two exceptions are the Sandy +Hook light--a stone tower 88 feet high--and Cape Henlopen, at the +entrance to Delaware Bay, both of which were built in 1764. Naturally, +their illuminating apparatus has been remodelled from time to time, in +accordance with the advances in this field of lighthouse engineering, +but that is the only change which has been effected. + +[Illustration: A CHURCH AS A LIGHTHOUSE. + +A fixed white light, thrown from the tower of St. Philip’s Church, and +visible for 18 miles, forms the rear light of the main channel range in +Charleston Harbour, South Carolina.] + +One lighthouse on the Atlantic coast of the United States possesses a +pathetic and romantic interest. It indicates the treacherous shores +around Cape Henry, and mounts sentinel on the headland at the southerly +side of the entrance to Chesapeake Bay, Virginia. The stranger on the +passing ship, as he scans the dreary bench of sand rising from the +water’s edge at this point, has his attention arrested by two gaunt +towers. The foremost is almost lapped by the water; the other is some +distance to the rear, and upon a higher level. “Two lights, and for +what?” is a natural exclamation. But only one tower--that nearer the +waves--throws its glare by night. Its companion behind has passed its +cycle of utility long since, but it has not been demolished because of +its unique history. It was built in 1789 with bricks and stones brought +from England. In shape it is a tapering octagonal cone, and when first +erected the waves almost washed its base. But the sea, which eats +away the rock and soft soil at some parts, casts this débris ashore +here, so that Cape Henry is slowly but surely thrusting its dismal +tongue of sand farther and farther into the Atlantic. The old tower +fulfilled faithful service until the seventies, when, being considered +too far from the water, it was superseded by the shaft rising from +the sand-dunes below. After a century’s service the old light was +extinguished, to permit the fixed white light of the first order in the +new tower to take its place. + +The new building, completed in 1881, is likewise octagonal in section, +gradually tapering from the base to the lantern gallery. It is built +upon what is described as the “double-shell principle,” there being two +iron cylinders, one within the other. It is 152 feet in height, and the +powerful white beam has a range of twenty miles, while a red beam is +cast from one side to mark a dangerous shoal. As a powerful flashing +white light of a similar character is shed from a tower on Cape Charles +opposite, the mariner has a well-illumined entrance into Chesapeake Bay. + +Ice was one of the great difficulties against which the American +lighthouse builders had to contend, and they laboured valiantly to +mitigate this evil. It caused more damage to their works than wind and +wave of the most terrifying violence. The upper reaches of the great +rivers are encased with thick ice throughout the winter. When the +spring comes round, this brittle armour is broken up, and, caught by +the current, is swept toward the ocean, the floes jostling and crashing +among one another. When the slightest obstruction is offered to their +free movement, the pieces mount one another, forming large hummocks, +and the pressure thus imposed is terrific. The “ice-shove,” when it +assumes large proportions, is quite capable of wreaking widespread +damage. + +When the screw-pile lighthouses came into vogue, this danger was +advanced as one of the greatest objections to the adoption of this +idea. It was pointed out that the ice would pack around the slender +legs, and either snap them, or would bring about such severe distortion +as to imperil the safety of the superstructure. When Major Hartman +Bache undertook the erection of the Brandywine Shoal light in Delaware +Bay, he determined to frustrate the effects of this peril. The light, +being eight miles from the ocean, was right in the path of the +ice-shoves of the Potomac, so the nine iron legs upon which the beacon +is supported--eight in a circle and one central--are protected by what +is known as an “ice-breaker.” This is a pier of thirty iron piles, +which likewise are screwed into the sea-bed. Each pile is 23 feet +long by 5 inches in diameter, and they are connected at their heads, +and at a point just above low-water, by what are known as “spider-web +braces.” The result is that, when a shock is inflicted upon one pile, +it is communicated throughout the entire breaker. This system has +proved entirely successful, and has protected the lighthouse within +completely. The main building, although subjected to heavy attacks by +the piled ice, has never been damaged thereby, although subsequently it +became necessary to strengthen the ice-breaker, because the onslaughts +of several winters had left their mark. + +Off the coast of Florida, and in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, this +type of lighthouse is very strongly in evidence, as it was found to be +the most suitable for the coral sea-bed. The most notable structure +of this class is the Fowey Rocks light, which rises, a flame-crowned +skeleton, from the extreme northern point of the Florida reefs. It is +in an exposed position, where inclement weather is often experienced. +At this point there is not more than 3 feet of water, and the spot is +as bad as a mariner could wish to avoid, for no ship could hope to +escape destruction once it became entangled in these submerged toils. + +The building of this light presented many perplexing difficulties, +the greatest of which was offered by the weather. The structure is +an octagonal pyramid, with the keepers’ quarters on a lower deck, +communication with the lantern being afforded by a winding staircase +encircling a vertical cylinder. The light is 110¼ feet above +high-water, of the fixed type, with red sectors guarding dangerous +shoals in the vicinity, while the white beams can be picked up some +eleven miles away. + +The integral parts of this building were prepared by three different +contractors, were fitted together, and the building set up temporarily, +on the mainland, so as to facilitate erection at the site. The work +was started in 1876, the first move being the provision of a platform +about 80 feet square and 12 feet above low-water, from which to conduct +operations. The lower piles were driven about 10 feet into the live +coral reef. Extreme care was observed during this operation, the pile +after every stroke of the driver being tested with a plumb-line, to +make sure that it was being sent home absolutely vertically. If it +diverged, however slightly, from the perpendicular, the error was +corrected immediately. When the piles had been driven to the requisite +depth, the tops were levelled to the height of the most deeply driven +pile; then the horizontal members were placed in position, followed by +the diagonal bracing. + +[Illustration: THE BONITA POINT LIGHTHOUSE OFF THE CALIFORNIAN COAST. + +While the tower is only 21 feet in height, its position on a lofty +cliff gives the light of 27,000 candle-power a range of 17 miles.] + +This task occupied some two months, and then a spell of bad weather +broke over the coast, interspersed with brief intervals of smooth +seas and calms. As the land depot was four miles away, this involved +frequent journeys to and fro for the workmen, who had to be brought +off the work upon the slightest sign of rough weather. To eliminate +the interruptions arising from this procedure, tents were despatched +to the site and pitched on the wooden platform, so that the men might +reside there. At times their situation was alarming; the heavy seas +rushed and tumbled among the piles beneath the crazy perch, and the men +were always on tenterhooks lest a hurricane, such as is experienced +often in this region, should bear down upon them and carry the whole +colony away. When work was in progress, they did not realize their +lonely, perilous position so much, since their minds were otherwise +occupied; but it was the enforced periods of idleness, often lasting +several days on end, which made them grow despondent, as they were +virtually imprisoned, and there was very little space in which to +obtain exercise. The material was brought out in lighters towed by a +steam-launch, on which steam was kept up day and night, because the +material had to be sent out at any moment when the conditions were +favourable. Again, this “standing by” was imperative, in case a sudden +call for assistance should be given by the little isolated community +when faced with disaster during a storm. When the men got the +keepers’ quarters completed, their minds became easier, as they were +now in possession of a more stable camp. The superstructure advanced at +a rapid rate, and the light was shown for the first time on June 15, +1878. + +Toil of a different character was associated with the building of +the Race Rock lighthouse, eight miles from New London, Connecticut. +This peril is a submerged ledge off Fisher’s Island Sound, and is of +formidable magnitude, since the ledge is at the mouth of the race, +where the waters, according to the tide, sweep along with great +velocity and force, while in heavy weather the waves get up high and +thunder with awful power. The main ledge bristles with ugly sharp +spurs, some of which rise above the main cluster, known as Race Rock, +which is about 3 feet below mean low-water. The situation of this +lurking danger called for the erection of an efficient beacon, though +not demanding a light of the calibre of Minot’s Ledge, because even in +rough weather the water does not mount in the form of thick curtains of +spray. A smaller and different type of light, therefore, was considered +to be adequate for the purpose. + +[Illustration: POINT PINOS LIGHT STATION, CALIFORNIA. + +This mariners’ friend has been tended by a woman for the past 30 years.] + +Even then, however, erection was not an easy matter by any means. +The velocity of the water and the submerged character of the reef +demanded the aid of divers to prepare the ledge-face and to complete +the foundations. The rock was levelled as much as possible by the aid +of small broken stone and riprap. On this a heavy circular stepped +plinth of solid mass-concrete was laid. This foundation is 9 feet in +thickness, and is disposed in four concentric layers, the lowermost of +which is 60 feet in diameter by 3 feet in thickness. The concrete was +laid in huge hoops of iron, of the desired height and diameter for the +respective layers, to prevent the mass from spreading. When this task +was completed, there was a level platform, as solid as the rock itself, +and projecting 8 inches above mean low-water. On this a conical stone +pier was built to a height of 30 feet, by 57 feet in diameter at the +base. The top was crowned with a projecting coping 55 feet in diameter. +The outer face of this pier is composed of massive blocks of stone +backed with concrete; while in its heart are the spaces for cisterns +and cellars. From one side of this pier stretches a short jetty, to +form a landing-place. + +[Illustration: THE FARALLON ROCK AND LIGHT. + +The light of 110,000 candle-power is placed on the highest peak of the +rock, 358 feet above the sea.] + +[Illustration: THE FARALLON LIGHTHOUSE OFF SAN FRANCISCO. + +Owing to the height of the rock, a tower 29 feet high was adequate to +carry the lantern and its equipment.] + +The lighthouse comprises a granite dwelling of two floors for the +accommodation of the keepers, from the centre of the front of which +rises a granite tower, square at the base, but round at the top, to +carry the lantern, the light of which, of the fourth order, is 67 +feet above mean high-water. The warning is an alternate flash of red +and white, with a ten seconds’ dark interval. For the protection of +the base of the pier, the ledge on all sides is covered with a thick +layer of boulders. The work was commenced in 1872, but, owing to its +difficult character, occupied six years. The Race Rock lost its terrors +for all time when the beam flashed out on the night of New Year’s Day, +1879. + +On the Pacific seaboard, while the American lighthouse engineers have +not been so active in regard to engineering work of an impressive +nature, owing to the more slender proportions of the maritime traffic, +they have accomplished some notable triumphs. The Tillamook Rock light, +described in the previous chapter, is the most important, and is to +the Pacific seaboard of the country what the Minot’s Ledge light is +to the Atlantic coast. The majority of the lights on the Pacific are +stationed on the mainland, or contiguous thereto. These beacons are +of more modern construction than those on the Atlantic shore, and in +some instances are very powerful. Pride of place in this respect is +shared between Point Arena and Cape Mendocino. The former, perched on +the cliff-shore of California, has a flashing group of two flashes of +3/8 second in five seconds, with eclipses of 1-1/8 and 4-1/8 seconds +respectively, thrown by its light of 1,000,000 candle-power over the +water for a radius of eighteen miles from a height of 155 feet. Cape +Mendocino light, on the same coastline, has the further distinction +of being the most elevated light on the United States Pacific coast, +the 340,000 candle-power beam being thrown for ten seconds once every +thirty seconds from an elevation of 422 feet. Although the tower +itself is only 20 feet in height, the cliff sheers up for 402 feet. +Consequently the flash may be detected from twenty-eight miles out to +sea in clear weather. + +On the other hand, the Point Cabrillo light, a few miles south, whose +flashing ray is of 650,000 candle-power, is picked up from a distance +of only fourteen miles, because the light is but 84 feet above mean +high-water. The Farallon beacon, comprising a tower 29 feet high +planted on the highest point of Farallon Island, off San Francisco, +comes a good second in point of elevation, as the 110,000 candle-power +flash, occurring for ten seconds once in every minute, is projected +from an altitude of 358 feet, and can be discerned twenty-six miles +away. For many years the Point Reyes light held the distinction of +being the loftiest beacon, since its flash of 160,000 candle-power +once every five seconds is shed from an elevation of 294 feet, but is +now relegated to third place in this respect. Taken on the whole, the +lights scattered along the rugged, lonely Pacific seaboard are far +more powerful than their contemporaries guarding busier shipping on +the eastern coast of the country; but whereas the latter are placed +somewhat close together, the former are spaced far apart. + +[Illustration: THE PUNTA GORDA LIGHT STATION, CALIFORNIA. + +One of the latest built by the United States. Commodious and handsome +buildings are provided for the wardens of this light.] + +There are some points which, while being so extremely perilous to +the mariner as to demand the provision of a lighthouse, yet cannot +be guarded at present. The peculiarity of their situations and their +physical characteristics completely defy the ingenuity, skill, and +resource, of the engineer. Cape Hatteras, perhaps, is the most forcible +illustration of this defeat of science by Nature. The sea-bed for miles +off this point is littered with the most treacherous sandbanks, beside +which the Goodwins of Britain appear insignificant. Every seafarer +knows the Diamond Shoals, and gives them a wider berth than any other +danger spot in the seven seas. For some seven and a half miles out +to sea from the prominent headland, the Atlantic, according to its +mood, bubbles, boils, or rolls calmly, over shoals and serried rows +of submerged banks. The currents are wild and frantic; the storms +which rage off this point are difficult to equal in any other part of +the world; and the number of ships which have gone to pieces or have +been abandoned to their fate in these inhospitable stretches of sea is +incalculable. + +Time after time the engineers have sought to subjugate this danger, +but without avail. The sea-bed is so soft and absorbing that a firm +foundation for a tower defies discovery. One brilliant attempt was made +to sink a caisson, similar to that employed for the famous Rothersand +light in the River Weser. The mammoth structure was built, and with +extreme difficulty was towed out to the selected site. But the seas +roared against this attempt to deprive them of their prey. They +bore down upon the caisson and smashed it to fragments, causing the +engineers to retire from the scene thoroughly discomfited. When a huge +mass, weighing several hundred tons, could be broken up by the maddened +seas so easily, of what avail were the knowledge and effort of man? The +Diamond Shoals still resist conquest. The only means of warning ships +of their presence is a lightship moored well out beyond the pale of +their sucking embrace. + +At the present time the United States Lighthouse Board mounts guard +over 17,695 miles of coastline. This aggregate embraces, not only +the two seaboards of the North American continent, but sections of +the Great Lakes, the Philippines, Alaska, Hawaiian Islands, and the +American Samoan Islands, the total detailed coast or channel line being +no less than 48,881 miles. In order to guide the mariner on his way +through waters over which the Stars and Stripes wave, no less than +12,150 lights of all descriptions are required, demanding the services +of an army of 5,582 men and women; while the cost of maintenance +exceeds £1,200,000, or $6,000,000, per annum. Seeing that the country +levies no tolls for services rendered in this connection, the shipping +community, and humanity in general, owe a deep debt of gratitude to a +powerful nation. + +The United States share with Great Britain, Austria, Belgium, Spain, +France, Italy, the Netherlands, and Sweden, the expense of maintaining +a lighthouse which is situate on the property of none of them. This is +a kind of no man’s, and yet it is every man’s, light. The beacon is not +located in an out-of-the-way part of the world, such as the Arctic Sea, +as might be supposed, but mounts guard over one of the busiest marine +thoroughfares of the globe--the western entrance to the Mediterranean. +This unique light is that of Cape Spartel, on the Moroccan coast. While +it was built at the expense of Morocco, the responsibility for its +maintenance was assumed by the foregoing Powers, in accordance with +the convention of March 12, 1867, which has remained in force since. +There is no other light upon the seven seas which has so many Powers +concerned in its welfare and maintenance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE LAMP-POSTS OF THE GREAT LAKES OF NORTH AMERICA + + +On the North American continent the efficient lighting of the coasts +washed by two salt oceans is only one, although the most important, +concern of the United States and Canadian Governments. In addition each +has a long stretch of rugged, tortuous shore hemming in those capacious +depressions draining a vast tract of country, and known generally as +the Great Lakes. These unsalted seas are rightly named, seeing that +they constitute the largest sheets of fresh water on the inhabited +globe. + +The responsibility of safeguarding the navigator as he makes his way +across these wastes is shared equally by the two countries which they +divide, with one exception. This is Lake Michigan, which lies entirely +within the United States. The narrow necks of water which link these +lakes into one long chain likewise are lighted by the two nations. +For some years the Lower Detroit River, connecting Lakes Erie and St. +Clair, was maintained for the most part by the United States, but +the practice was not satisfactory; so, as the result of a conference +between the two Governments, Canada assumed charge of the aids in +certain specified portions of the navigable channel lying entirely in +Canadian waters. The result of this new arrangement has been the better +patrolling of the waterway. + +The water-borne commerce on these lakes, although possible for only +half the year, is tremendous, while navigation is extremely difficult +and beset with innumerable dangers.[B] The different means whereby a +ship is handled and maintained on its course upon the salt-water ocean +are not completely applicable in this case. The greater number of the +boats are freighters and engaged in the transport of ore, which, from +its metallic character, is apt to disturb the compass, rendering it +somewhat unreliable. Nor is the lead of much avail in thick weather, +as the lake-bed varies suddenly from comparative shallowness to great +depths. Navigation on these lakes has been likened to coastal traffic, +only with land on both sides of the mariner, and the intervals when +the ship is out of sight of the shoreline are comparatively brief. +Accordingly, the captain picks his way rather by the aid of landmarks, +and the vessels are fitted with a bowsprit, to give the master a point +whereby to judge his direction. But landmarks, however conspicuous and +trustworthy they may be by day and in clear weather, are useless at +night and in fog, to which latter visitation, by the way, these waters +are extremely susceptible. + + [B] For a full description of the marine traffic on the Great + Lakes, see “The Steamship Conquest of the World,” chapter + ix., p. 119. + +Steamship traffic cannot be carried on with financial success by +daylight and in fair weather only, so it became necessary to distribute +beacons around the indented shores. This procedure was rendered +additionally necessary owing to the formidable character of many of the +dangers besetting navigation, in the form of shoals, projecting ridges, +and submerged reefs, quite as terrifying to the master of a fresh-water +ship as similar dangers on an ocean-swept coast. + +At the same time, however, one would not expect to find examples of +lighthouse engineering comparable with the great sea-rock lights +rearing above the ocean, such as the Minot’s Ledge, Dhu-Heartach, or +Bishop’s Rock. On the other hand, the uninitiated might conclude that +buoys and small lights, such as indicate the entrance to harbours, +would fulfil requirements. So they would but for two or three adverse +factors. These lakes are ravaged at times by storms of great violence, +which burst with startling suddenness. Fogs also are of frequent +occurrence, especially in the spring and autumn, often descending +and lifting instantly like a thick blanket of cloud. But the most +implacable enemy is the ice. The engineer can design a tower which will +withstand the most savage onslaughts of wind and wave with comparative +ease, at, relatively speaking, little expense; but the ice introduces +another factor which scarcely can be calculated. The whole of these +lakes are frozen over during the winter to such a thickness as to defy +all efforts to cut a channel, becoming, in fact, as solid as terra +firma. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +A LIGHTHOUSE ON THE GREAT LAKES IN THE GRIP OF WINTER. + +This tower marks the Racine Reef in 20 feet of water near the entrance +to Racine Harbour on the west coast of Lake Michigan.] + +In the spring this armour cracks and breaks up like glass shattered +with a hammer. It then becomes the sport of the currents, which in +many places sweep and swirl with enormous force round the headlands +and spits projecting into the lake. This action sets the ice moving +in stately majesty, but crushing everything that rears in its way, or +piling and breaking against the obstruction. Ice-shoves, ice-jams, +and ice-runs, are the three forces against which the engineer has to +contend, and at places his efforts are so puny as to be useless. The +ice, if it collects across one of the outlets so as to form a massive +dam reaching to the lake-bed, immediately causes the level of the +lake to rise; and when at last the barrage breaks, then the water is +released in a mad rush. + +Lighthouse building on the Great Lakes demands the highest skill, +incalculable ingenuity, and the soundest of design and workmanship. +Consequently, some of the guardian lights distributed around these +shores, such as Spectacle Reef, the Rock of Ages, Colchester, and Red +Rock lighthouses, are striking evidences of the engineer’s handiwork. +Of course, where the land presses in on either hand, transforming +the waterway into a kind of canal, or where the shore is free from +submerged obstructions, the type of lighthouse on either shore follows +the wooden frame dwelling with a low tower, as it is completely +adequate for the purpose. + +The one erection, however, which commands the greatest attention is +the Spectacle Reef light, which has been called the Eddystone, or +Minot’s Ledge, of the Lakes. In its way it was quite as bold an +undertaking as either of these far-famed works, and in some respects +was far more difficult to carry out, although the builder was spared +the capriciousness and extreme restlessness of tidal waters. Spectacle +Reef lighthouse rears its tapering head from a particularly dangerous +reef in an awkward corner of Lake Huron, where commences the Strait of +Mackinac, leading to Lake Michigan. The spot is dangerous, because it +is covered by about 7 feet of water; awkward, because it occurs about +ten and a half miles off the nearest land, which is Bois Blanc Island. +The reef in reality comprises two shoals, which lie in such relation +to one another as to suggest a pair of spectacles--hence the name. As +it is exposed to 170 miles of open sea on one side, when these waters +are roused the rollers hammer on the reef with terrible violence, while +at times the currents skirl by at a velocity of two or three miles per +hour, and the ice in its movement grinds, piles, and grates itself upon +the reef in impotent fury. When this ice is forced forward with the +push exerted by the currents, the pressure is tremendous and the force +wellnigh irresistible. + +When the lighthouse was projected, it was realized that it would have +to be of massive proportions and provided with adequate measures to +protect it from the assault and battering of the ice. The task was +undertaken by General O. M. Poe, who was engineer-in-chief to General +Sherman on his historic march to the sea. This engineer decided to +take the Minot’s Ledge monolithic structure as his model, seeing +that the latter had withstood the savage onslaughts of the Atlantic. +Fortunately, the foundations were of an excellent character, the reef +being formed of hard limestone. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +BUILDING THE BARRE À BOULARD LIGHT IN THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. + +Owing to the severity of the ice piling in this waterway, the +structures have to be provided with massive foundations.] + +The engineer selected as the site for the tower a point where the +ridge is submerged by 11 feet of water. Seeing that the base was to be +laid under water, obviously it seemed to be an operation for divers; +but General Poe prepared a superior means of getting the subaqueous +foundations laid. He built a cofferdam around the site, and, as the +work would have to be protected from the winter ice, he built another +cofferdam, entirely for protective purposes, outside the former. The +nearest point on the mainland where he could establish a depot was +Scammon’s Harbour, some sixteen miles away, and here everything in +connection with the work was prepared and shipped to the site ready for +placing in position. + +The protective work comprised a wooden pier, built up of timbers 12 +inches square, 24 feet in height. This structure was divided into a +series of vertical compartments on all four sides, leaving a clear +internal space 48 feet square. The outer compartments or pockets were +filled with stone, to secure solidity and stability. Landing facilities +were provided on this pier, together with quarters for the men engaged +in the construction work. + +In the inner space, containing 48 square feet of still water, the +cofferdam, in which the subaqueous work was to be carried out, was +lowered. This structure was cylindrical in form. It was built up +of staves, banded with heavy hoops of iron, so that in reality it +resembled a huge barrel 36 feet across. It was fashioned at the site, +being built while suspended directly over the spot on which it was to +be lowered. When the tub was finished, loosely twisted oakum, 1½ inches +thick, was nailed all round the lower edge, while a flap of heavy +canvas was secured to the outside bottom rim in such a way as to leave +36 inches dangling free. The exact circular shape of the cofferdam was +insured by liberal cross-bracing from a central vertical post, which +constituted the axis of the barrel, corresponding to the vertical axis +of the tower. While this work was in progress, the face of the rock +was cleared of loose boulders, and then the cofferdam was lowered +bodily with extreme care, so that it descended with unerring accuracy +perpendicularly into the water, to come to rest over the desired spot. +As the surface of the reef was very uneven, the cofferdam stopped when +it reached the highest projection under its edge. Then each stave of +the barrel was driven downwards until it came to rest upon the sea-bed, +and, as the oakum rope was forced down likewise, this served to act +as caulking. The outer flap of canvas, when the cofferdam was driven +right home, spread out on all sides, and lay upon the surface of the +reef. + +Pumps capable of discharging 5,000 gallons per minute then were set +to work, removing the water from within the cofferdam. The oakum +rope seal prevented the water regaining the internal space under the +bottom edge of the tub, while the canvas assisted in securing absolute +water-tightness, because the outer water-pressure forced it into all +the nooks and crevices. + +By these means the workmen were given an absolutely dry space in which +to carry out their erecting work. The face of the reef was cleaned +and levelled off, and the first layer of stones was laid. These were +first fitted temporarily upon a false platform on shore, so that when +they reached the site they could be set at once without finicking. The +bottom layer is 32 feet in diameter, and the tower is solid to a height +of 34 feet above the rock. The stones are each 2 feet in thickness, +and are secured to one another on all sides with wrought-iron bolts, +24 inches long by 2½ inches in diameter; while the tower is anchored +to the rock by cement and bolts 3 feet long, driven through the bottom +course into the real rock beneath, entering the latter to a depth of 21 +inches. Liquid cement was driven into the holes so as to fill up all +the remaining interstices, and this now has become as hard as the stone +itself. + +The exterior of the tower is the frustum of a cone, and at 80 feet +above the base is 18 feet in diameter. The total height of the masonry +is 93 feet, and the focal plane is brought 97¼ feet above the rock, +or 86¼ feet above the water-level. The tower is provided with five +rooms, each 14 feet in diameter, while the entrance is 23 feet above +the water. The undertaking was commenced in May, 1870, and the light +was shown first in June, 1874. As work had been confined to the summer +months, and a fortnight every spring was devoted to preparations, as +well as an equal period in the autumn to making all fast to withstand +the rigours of winter, the total working period was only some twenty +months. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson._ + +COLCHESTER REEF LIGHTHOUSE, LAKE ERIE. + +An isolated station maintained by the Canadian Government. It is a +fixed light, visible throughout a circle of 16 miles radius.] + +The protection against the ice has proved its value completely. The +ice as it moves becomes crushed against the defence, and then has +its advance impeded by the shoal upon which it grinds and packs, to +form in itself a barrier and ice-breaker against other approaching +ice-fields. This structure was soon submitted to a stern test to prove +its efficacy. In the spring of 1875, when the keepers returned to +the lighthouse--the light, in common with all other beacons guarding +the Great Lakes, is shut down during the winter, when navigation is +closed--they found the tower unapproachable. The ice-shove had jammed, +packed, and been frozen into a solid berg to a height of 30 feet, of +which the tower itself formed the core. The doorway was buried to a +depth of 7 feet, and the keepers had to carve their way with pickaxes +to the entrance. + +Owing to the success of the design for the Spectacle Reef lighthouse, +which ranks as a striking engineering achievement, it was adopted for +the Stannard’s Rock tower. This ledge rises from the water 28 feet +from shore, and the plant and tackle which were employed in connection +with the first-named structure were utilized in this undertaking. The +tower is 191 feet in height, and the light can be seen for about twenty +miles. During the past two or three years the United States Government +has erected two other noble lighthouses in Lakes Superior and Michigan. +The first warns all and sundry off a rock having three ugly pinnacles +projecting above the water, and known as the “Rock of Ages.” This +danger stands right in the steamship tracks between Port Arthur and +Duluth, off the western end of Isle Royale. The engineers selected one +of the pinnacles as the base for the tower, decapitating the projection +to 12 inches above mean low-water, so as to secure a sufficiently +large and level plinth. On this bed a cylindrical foundation pier, of +massive proportions and strength so as to withstand the ice action, was +planted, to support a lofty tower in reinforced concrete. The building +has seven floors, one being set aside for housing the two twenty-four +horse-power oil-engines which are used to drive the air-compressors +for the fog-siren. The light is 125 feet above water-level, and +gives a double flash at ten-second intervals, which can be picked up +twenty-one miles away. This tower was erected in a very short time, +the work, commenced in May, 1907, being completed, except for the +installation of the permanent lens, thirteen months later. The optical +apparatus was fixed and the light shown first on September 15, 1910. + +The second light has been placed on White Shoal, at the north end +of Lake Michigan, and supersedes a lightship which fulfilled all +requirements for many years. The shoal is exceptionally dangerous, and +the crowded character of the shipping demanded the installation of a +more powerful light and fog-signal. The structure is a striking piece +of work, comprising a steel cylindrical tower, or shell, lined on the +inside with brick and faced externally with terra-cotta--an unusual +material for lighthouse construction. The superstructure is built +upon a massive concrete pier, about 70 feet square, rising 20 feet +above water-level, this being borne in turn upon a heavy stone-filled +timber crib laid on a block-stone foundation, the whole being protected +thoroughly with riprap. The lantern is of the second flashing order, +with the focal plane 125 feet above the lake-level, and the 65,000 +candle-power ray is visible twenty-five miles away. The tower is +fitted with a duplicate plant of twenty-four horse-power oil-engines +and air-compressors, operating an eight-inch whistle; and there is +also an electrically-operated submarine bell, the power for which is +generated by an independent oil-engine, the bell being operated from +the engine-room. This station is equipped also with a compressed air +water-supply system and a motor-boat. + +[Illustration: THE LATEST DEVELOPMENT IN LIGHTHOUSE ENGINEERING. + +Building the hexagonal tower on Caribou Island, Lake Superior, upon the +lines evolved by Lieut.-Col. W. P. Anderson, the chief engineer to the +Canadian Lighthouse Department.] + +Owing to the peculiar prevailing conditions, the provision of adequate +beacons upon the Great Lakes is highly expensive. Up to the year +1883 more money had been devoted to the lighting of the shoreline of +Lake Michigan than to the illumination of any ocean or gulf in any +other State in the country. The total expenditure up to the above +year exceeded £470,000, or $2,350,000. The Spectacle Reef light +was considered cheap at £75,000, or $375,000; and the Stannard Rock +lighthouse, owing to the plant and other facilities being available +from the foregoing work, cost £60,000, or $300,000. By the time the +“Rock of Ages” tower threw its light, £27,649, or $138,245, had been +sunk; and the White Shoals lighthouse absorbed £50,000, or $250,000. + +The Canadian Government, too, has completed some notable works upon +the Great Lakes during recent years. In Lake Erie, in the fairway of +passing traffic, is a ledge known as Colchester Reef, on the south-east +edge of which a lighthouse, one of the most isolated in Canadian +waters, has been placed. The circular stone pier is built in 14 feet of +water, and the lighthouse, comprising a two-story dwelling and tower, +supports the beacon 60 feet above the lake. The light is a fixed white, +of the third dioptric order, visible throughout a circle of fourteen +miles radius. + +At the entrance to Parry Sound, on a convenient site offered by the +solid granite mass of Red Rock, a new lighthouse was constructed in +1911. This was the third beacon placed at this point, the two previous +lights dating from 1870 and 1881 respectively. It is a particularly bad +spot, since the waters of Georgian Bay have a free run, so that the +rock experiences the full hammering of the sea. The beacon comprises a +reinforced concrete building, nearly elliptical in section, supported +upon a heavy stone foundation, which is encased in steel, and which is +12 feet high. The tower has a height of 57 feet, bringing the occulting +flash of twelve seconds, with an eclipse of four seconds, 60 feet above +the water. This station is also equipped with a powerful diaphone. The +keepers of this light experience exciting times, as in a furious gale, +such as the lakes only can produce, the waves frequently crash over the +building. + +Another fine light in the stretch of these waters under Canadian +jurisdiction is found about halfway across Lake Superior, where +Caribou Island thrusts its scrub-clothed hump above the water, almost +directly in the path of the vessels running between Sault Ste. Marie +and Sarnia. This magnificent structure, placed on a small islet lying +off the main island, is built in ferro-concrete, in accordance with +Lieutenant-Colonel Anderson’s latest ideas, and was opened for service +in 1912. It is of hexagonal shape, with six flying buttresses, and the +focal plane is brought 99 feet above the water-level, so that the white +flash of half a second may be seen all round from a distance of fifteen +miles. + +The steamship lanes across the Great Lakes are now well lighted. Canada +alone maintains over 460 lights of all descriptions throughout its +waters between the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario and the head of +Lake Superior at Port Arthur. The United States authorities watch over +694 attended and unattended aids to navigation in the same seas, of +which total 152 are scattered around the coastline of Lake Michigan. +The mariner in these fresh-water oceans, consequently, has a round +thousand lights to guide him on his way, and the number is being +steadily increased to keep pace with the growth of the traffic, so that +these seas may become regarded as the safest and best protected in the +world. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +THE MOST POWERFUL ELECTRIC LIGHTHOUSES OF THE WORLD + + +In a previous chapter I have mentioned that, although oil is the most +popular form of illuminant in lighthouse engineering, electricity is +maintained to be preferable, but labours under one heavy disadvantage +which militates against its more general adoption. It is expensive +to install and to maintain. Under these circumstances the system has +been restricted to lights of the most important character, preferably +landfalls or beacons indicating the entrance to a harbour. Thus, we +have the Lizard at the entrance to the English Channel; St. Catherine’s +on the Isle of Wight; the Rothersand at the entrance to the Weser; the +Heligoland flaring over the island of that name; the Isle of May at the +entrance to the Firth of Forth; Cape Héve near Havre; and the Navesink +light on the highlands of the New Jersey coast, to guide the mariner +into New York harbour. + +The first attempt to apply electricity to lighthouse illumination +was made in the year 1859, by the Trinity Brethren, on the strong +recommendations of Professor Faraday, who was then scientific adviser +to the British lighthouse authorities. The South Foreland light was +selected for the experiments, and the magneto-electric machine invented +by Professor Holmes, who subsequently perfected the siren, was used. + +The installation was built with extreme care, as the imperative +necessity of reliability, owing to the peculiar nature of the +application, was recognized very fully. The large wheels made +eighty-five revolutions per minute, and at this speed produced a very +steady light. On a clear night, owing to the elevation of the cliff +the light was visible for over twenty-seven miles, and could be +descried readily from the upper galleries of the lighthouses on the +opposite French shore. In order to determine the relative value of +electric lighting in comparison with the other methods of illumination +then in vogue, another light emitted by an oil-lamp, with reflectors +characteristic of the period, was burned simultaneously from a point +below the top light, so that passing mariners were able to compare the +two systems of illumination under identical conditions. + +The French lighthouse authorities were not dilatory in adopting the +new idea, and electricity was installed in the Cape Héve lighthouse in +1863. The light was brilliant for those times, being approximately of +60,000 candle-power. The French investigators then embarked upon an +elaborate series of experiments, and in 1881 an electric light of about +1,270,000 candle-power was established at the Planier lighthouse, near +Marseilles. The investigations culminated in the great achievement of +M. Bourdelles, who, while engineer-in-chief of the Service des Phares, +designed a new electric installation for the Cape Héve light, of +25,000,000 candle-power. + +Meantime British engineers had not been idle. In 1871 Messrs. +Stevenson, the engineers-in-chief to the Commissioners of Northern +Lighthouses, advocated strongly the establishment of an electric light +upon the Scottish coast; but it was not until 1883 that the Board of +Trade sanctioned the sum necessary to complete such an enterprise, +and suggested that the innovation should be made at the Isle of May +lighthouse, as being the most important on the East Scottish coast. + +This is one of the historic light-stations of Scotland. Lying in +the Firth of Forth, five miles off the Fifeshire shore, the islet +obstructs a busy marine thoroughfare. For 276 years a light has gleamed +from its summit, the change from the coal fire to Argand lamps with +reflectors having been made by Thomas Smith, the first engineer to +the Commissioners of Northern Lighthouses, when this body assumed its +control in 1816. Twenty years later it was converted to the dioptric +system, with a first-order fixed light apparatus having a four-wick +burner. This arrangement was in service for half a century, when it +was converted to electricity in conjunction with a dioptric condensing +apparatus. + +The electric installation was designed throughout by Messrs. Stevenson, +and it possesses many ingenious and novel features to this day, while +it was the pioneer of modern electric lighting systems as applied to +lighthouse engineering. Although marked improvements have been effected +in electrical engineering and science since its completion, it still +ranks as one of, if not the, most powerful electric lighthouses in the +world. The beacon is a prominent edifice on the summit of the island. +The building is somewhat pretentious, rather resembling a battlemented +castle than a warning for the mariner, the optical apparatus being +housed in a square turret rising above the main part of the building. +When electric illumination was adopted, the existing accommodation for +three keepers was found insufficient, while a generating-station was +necessary. Instead of extending the old building to accommodate the +additional facilities, a second station was built at a low-lying point +near the sea-level. This contains the engine and generating house, +together with quarters for three more keepers and their families. This +decision was made because at this point, 810 feet away and 175 feet +below the lighthouse, there is a small fresh-water loch whence water +is available for the boilers and condensers, while a marked saving in +the cost of handling fuel as well as of the haulage of the building +materials and machinery was feasible. The current is led from the +power-house to the lighthouse by means of overhead copper conductors. + +Some difficulty was experienced in securing electrical apparatus +suited to the searching exigencies of lighthouse engineering, and the +designers made one stipulation, which at first appeared to baffle +fulfilment. This was the placing of the positive carbon below, instead +of above, so as to enable the strongest light to be thrown upwards, to +be dealt with by the upper part of the dioptric apparatus, whereby it +could be used more effectively. One firm struggled with this problem +for many months, and then was compelled to admit defeat, as time for +further experimenting was unavailable, since the lighthouse was almost +completed. Accordingly, the designing engineers had to revise their +plans, and had to acquire alternate-current De Meriten machines, +which, although more expensive and less powerful than those originally +intended, yet were, and are still, wonderfully steady in working, while +they had previously proved highly efficient for lighthouse service. +Two generators of this description were secured, and they constituted +the largest that had been made up to this period, each plant weighing +about 4½ tons. Each machine has sixty permanent magnets, disposed in +five sets of twelve each, while each magnet is made up of eight steel +plates. The armature makes 600 revolutions per minute, and develops an +average current of 220 ampères. + +The installation is so designed that one-, two-, three-, or +four-fifths, or the whole, of the current can be sent from each unit to +the distributor for transmission to the lantern, or the two machines +may be coupled and the full current from both utilized. The current is +conveyed to the lantern through copper rods 1 inch in diameter, and +this was the first occasion on which such conductors were utilized for +lighthouse work. There are three lamps of a modified Serrin-Berjot +type, one being in service, and the other two held in reserve. By +means of a by-pass, or shunt, a large percentage of the current is +sent direct to the lower carbon, only a sufficient amount to regulate +the carbons being sent through the lamp. The carbons used are about 1½ +inches in diameter, though two-inch carbons can be employed when both +machines are running, and the rate of consumption is 1¼ inches, or, +including waste, 2 inches, per hour. The power of the arc thus obtained +with the current fed from one generator is between 12,000 and 16,000 +candles. In the event of the electric installation breaking down, a +three-wick paraffin oil lamp is kept in reserve, ready for instant +service, and it can be brought into use within three minutes. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Siemens Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +THE ELECTRIC SEARCHLIGHTS OF THE HELIGOLAND LIGHTHOUSE. + +On the lower level are three projectors spaced 120 degrees apart. Above +is a fourth searchlight revolving three times as rapidly as those +below.] + +The dioptric apparatus, designed by Messrs. Stevenson, and manufactured +by Messrs. Chance Brothers and Co. of Birmingham, is of a novel +character, inasmuch as the condensing principle has been carried to a +pronounced degree. The light characteristic is four brilliant flashes +in quick succession every thirty seconds. The lenticular apparatus +also includes the ingenious idea advocated by Mr. Thomas Stevenson, an +earlier engineer-in-chief to the Northern Commissioners and perhaps the +greatest authority on lighthouse optical engineering, whereby the light +may be dipped during a fog. Thus, in clear weather the strongest part +of the ray may be directed to the horizon, while in thick weather it +can be brought to bear upon a point, say, four or five miles away. The +flashes are produced by a revolving cage of straight vertical prisms, +which enclose the fixed-light apparatus. This cage makes one complete +revolution every minute, the rotary movement being secured through a +train of wheels and a weight, which has a fall of 60 feet in a tube +extending vertically through the centre of the tower, the mechanism +being wound up once an hour by manual effort. + +The beam of light obtained by the aid of electricity is of intense +brilliancy and penetration. Its equivalent in candle-power is somewhat +difficult to determine, because the methods of calculation are +somewhat arbitrary and misleading. By their own method of calculation, +the engineers responsible for the installation rate it at 3,000,000 +candle-power with one generator in use, and 6,000,000 candle-power when +both are going. This is from 300 to 600 times as intense as the oil +light which was superseded. By another method of calculation the beam +is of 26,000,000 candle-power, while another principle of rating brings +it to upwards of 50,000,000 candle-power. In clear weather the light +has a range of twenty-two miles, being indistinguishable at a greater +distance, owing to the curvature of the earth; but the flashes of +light illuminating the clouds overhead may be picked up forty or fifty +miles away. The total cost of electrifying the Isle of May light +was £15,835, or $79,175; while the annual cost of maintenance is over +£1,000, or $5,000. + +The most famous English electric lighthouse is that of St. Catherine’s, +in the Isle of Wight. This point, like the Isle of May, has been a +beacon for centuries. Its creation for this work even antedates its +northern contemporary, because in the fourteenth century a chantry was +built by a benevolent knight on the highest point of St. Catherine’s +Downs, who furthermore provided an endowment for a priest “who should +chant Masses and maintain a burning light at night for the safety of +mariners.” But this protection fell into desuetude. + +The station, however, was revived upon the old site in 1785, but it +had to be abandoned, because it was found to be built at too high +an elevation. It was so often enveloped in fog as to be useless, or +at least unreliable, to the seafarer. A new tower, accordingly, was +erected at a lower level, and brought into service in 1840, the warning +rays being thrown from a height of 134 feet above the water. Oil was +used with a burner of six rings, the light being officially known as a +“fixed oil light of the first class,” while the beam was diffused over +an arc of 240 degrees. In the middle eighties the Brethren of Trinity +House decided to bring it up to date, and selected electricity as the +illuminant, at the same time changing the light from the fixed to the +revolving class, with a five-second flash once every thirty seconds. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Siemens Bros. & Co., Ltd._ + +THE HELIGOLAND LIGHTHOUSE. + +One of the most powerful electric beacons in the world. Its maximum +candle-power is 43,000,000.] + +The installation is not widely dissimilar from that used at the Isle +of May. It comprises two De Meriten dynamos in duplicate, while the +lamps are of the modified Serrin-Berjot type, using carbons, not of +circular section, but with fluted sides. This shape was introduced by +Sir James Douglass, who contended that the former type did not produce +the requisite candle-like steadiness of the flame so essential to +lighthouse illumination. The dioptric apparatus was of the sixteen +panel type, so that the rays were thrown out in sixteen brilliantly +white horizontal spokes. To one approaching the lighthouse at +night-time, the effect in the sky was somewhat curious. It recalled a +huge and illuminated cart wheel or Catherine wheel, lying flat on its +side, throwing its rays to all points of the compass in a steadily +moving circle. This practice had been borrowed from the French, who +went so far as to introduce a twenty-four panel system, and, as in +France, the St. Catherine’s light, when first brought into service, was +not a complete success. The French considered that, by distributing the +light through as many panels as possible, the question of bringing the +flashes into action at short intervals would be facilitated, ignoring +the fact that by so doing the intensity of each ray was impoverished. +In other words, with the twenty-four panel light each panel only +received and threw out one-twenty-fourth part of the volume of light +emitted by the arc. Similarly, in the St. Catherine’s light only +one-sixteenth part of the light produced was thrown through each panel. +A few years ago the optical system was replaced by an apparatus having +fewer panels. The light thrown from the Isle of Wight pharos, with its +beam exceeding 5,000,000 candle-power, represents a marked advance upon +the oil light which it displaced, and certainly it ranks as the most +brilliant light in the English Channel. + +A few years ago another magnificent light was brought into service in +the North Sea by the installation of electricity in the lighthouse +of Heligoland. With characteristic Teuton thoroughness, the Germans +discussed the question of the illuminant for this beacon in all its +bearings, and resolved to introduce the most powerful light possible. +This decision was influenced by the dangerous character of the waters +washing the island, as it is flanked on all sides by highly perilous +ridges and sandbanks, which must become accentuated owing to the heavy +sea-erosion that prevails. + +The German authorities investigated the various electrical +installations that had been laid down for lighthouse work, with a view +to discovering the most suitable system, the advantages and defects +of existing electric lights, and how the drawbacks might be overcome +most successfully. Meantime the famous Siemens firm discovered a means +of grinding glass mirrors into parabolic form, and this discovery was +accepted as the solution to the problem. + +In this type of mirror the back is silvered. The metallic polished +surface is protected completely from mechanical injury and from all +possibility of tarnishing. The inventors claim that mirrors so prepared +are able to compete successfully with lenses and totally reflecting +prisms--in fact, it was maintained that the silvered glass parabolic +mirror possessed the advantages of greater reflecting power and +enhanced accuracy, with less divergence of the beam of light. + +Owing to the perfection of the lenses and prisms system of lighthouse +optics, the introduction of arc lights in conjunction with parabolic +mirrors was received with considerable hesitation. In order to dispel +these doubts, the above-mentioned firm forthwith embarked upon an +elaborate series of comparative tests at Nuremberg to ascertain the +relative value of the two systems, and as a result of these experiments +they concluded that quite as good an effect is obtainable with the arc +and parabolic mirror as with the best examples of any other method. + +Accordingly, the authorities decided to install the system in the +Heligoland lighthouse. They stipulated that the intensity of the beam +of light should be at least 30,000,000 candle-power, with a maximum +current of 100 ampères. The duration of the flash was to be one-tenth +of a second, followed by eclipses of five seconds’ duration. + +The electrical engineering firm entrusted with the contract fulfilled +these conditions by mounting three searchlights spaced 120 degrees +apart upon a rotating platform. That is to say, each light is projected +outwards from a point equal to a third of the circumference of a +circle. The mirror diameter was settled at 75 centimetres (29½ inches) +and the focal length at 250 millimetres (10 inches), the current being +taken at 34 ampères when the table made four revolutions per minute. + +Subsequently a fourth searchlight was introduced into the apparatus, +for the purpose of practical experiments and observations concerning +the duration of the light-flash. This fourth unit was mounted above the +three searchlights, but in the axis itself. It is so disposed that its +flash comes midway between any of the two below, and it is arranged to +rotate three times as quickly as the main group of lights. Accordingly, +the duration of the flash thrown from the fourth searchlight is only +one-third of the flash thrown by the others--that is, one-thirtieth of +a second. This lamp is provided with all the necessary mechanism for +keeping it in steady rotation at the increased speed, and for drawing +current from its feed-cable. + +Before the installation was placed in the lighthouse at Heligoland, +it was submitted to searching tests at the Nuremberg works of the +builders. These trials proved that with a current of only 26 ampères +the average intensity was as high as 34,000,000 candle-power, with a +maximum of nearly 40,000,000 candle-power; while with 34 ampères the +average intensity rose to approximately 40,000,000, with a maximum of +nearly 43,000,000 candle-power. Accordingly, the terms of the contract +were fulfilled completely. + +The searchlights throw their rays from a massive conical tower, the +focal plane of which is 272 feet above sea-level. In average weather +the rays are visible at a distance of twenty-three nautical miles, and +under the most advantageous weather conditions visibility is limited +only by the curvature of the earth, although on a clear night the +light is seen from Büsun, which is about thirty-five miles away. The +Heligoland electric light ranks as a remarkable development in the +application of electricity to lighthouse illumination, but it never has +been duplicated. The cost of maintenance--about £1,400, or $8,000, per +annum--is an insuperable handicap. + +On the other hand, the Hornum electric light, which is the most modern +of its type in Germany, is more economical, although by no means so +powerful. The tower is of cast-steel, and carries two electric lights; +while about half a mile distant is a second tower, which throws a +third electric light. In the main tower, on the ground floor, is +installed the electric generating plant (in duplicate), together with +all accessories, such as switchboards, etc. The floor above is devoted +to housing 100 accumulators, which are charged during the day. This +task can be completed by one generating set in about six hours. A +single charge is sufficient to keep the three lights going for ten or +eleven hours, and the lights are controlled by a simple throw-over +switch. By this arrangement the cost of the maintenance of the light is +reduced very appreciably, as only one keeper is on duty at a time, the +station being equipped with two men, who have proved adequate for the +purpose. + +Above the accumulator-room is the storeroom and a general workshop, +followed by a bedroom and above that the service-room. As only one +keeper is on duty at a time, he is provided with ample devices whereby +he can summon his comrade in times of emergency; the generating +machinery is also controllable from this floor. From the service-room +the lower light-room is entered. This is a secondary or back light +in the range, the front light being in the tower half a mile away. +Each of these two light-rooms is fitted with two 150 candle-power +incandescent electric lights, but only one is burned in each set at a +time: the second is a reserve. Should the light in action fail from +any cause, although the keeper is warned of the occurrence, he does +not have to stir a finger to bring the reserve light into service. +The short-circuit produced by the accident to the light automatically +revolves the table upon which the lamps are mounted, swings the reserve +light into focus, and then sets it going. + +Above the secondary light in the main tower is the principal beacon, +comprising a brilliant rapidly-flashing light, the characteristic of +which is groups of two flashes alternating with four flashes, the cycle +being completed once in thirty seconds. The optical apparatus has been +devised especially for the “differential arc-light,” as it is called, +with a reflecting lens having a focal distance of 250 millimetres +(10 inches), the lens itself being 1,180 millimetres (approximately +47 inches) in diameter. In front of the lens is placed a disperser, +having a diameter of 1,200 millimetres (48 inches) whereby the ray of +light is dispersed through an arc of 10½ degrees. Before the disperser +is the means for producing the characteristic flash. This comprises a +blind, or shutter, which is opened and closed by mechanism adjusted +to requirements; while the rotating mechanism, instead of being +weight-driven, is actuated by an electric motor. + +The “differential arc,” which is utilized in this installation, is +considered by German engineers to be the best system that has yet been +devised for the exacting purposes of lighthouse engineering, and the +description has arisen from the disposition of the carbons. While the +positive carbon is held horizontally, the negative carbon is placed at +an angle of 70 degrees thereto, and only the crater of the positive +carbon is considered for the lighting effect, this being placed in +the focus of the apparatus. The positive carbon is 3/5 inch, and the +negative carbon 2/5 inch, in diameter, although both have a common +length of 19 inches, which is sufficient for nine hours’ service. The +beam emitted is of some 5,000,000 candle-power. This is one of the +cheapest electric stations at present in operation, the annual running +charges averaging less than £300, or $1,500. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +SOME LIGHTHOUSES IN AUSTRALIAN WATERS + + +Although the waters washing the Australian continent are not so thickly +intersected with steamship lanes, and the mercantile traffic is not +so dense there as in the seas of the Northern Hemisphere, yet, owing +to the activity in emigration from Great Britain, as well as to the +increasing prosperity of the various rising industries under the +Southern Cross, they are becoming more crowded with each succeeding +year. The efficient lighting of the coasts is an inevitable corollary +of this expansion. Lighthouse engineering, however, is unavoidably +expensive, especially when sea-rocks demand indication. + +From time to time severe strictures are passed by European shipping +interests upon the apparent lack of coastal lights in Australasian +waters, and the various Government departments concerned with +this responsibility are often accused of parsimony and neglect. +Unfortunately, the greater number of these critics are apt to consider +the situation through European glasses; to take the countries of the +Old World and the United States as a basis for their arguments, and to +ignore local conditions. It has taken a century or more for Europe and +the United States to develop their respective organizations, and in +the majority of instances there are ample funds from which expenses in +this direction may be met, especially when passing shipping is mulcted +a small sum in light-dues for the purpose. When the shipping is heavy, +these levies are certain to represent in the aggregate a large sum +every year. + +From time to time New Zealand has been roundly assailed for its +apparent negligence in the extension of its lighthouse system. It +maintains thirty-four lighthouses and beacons, which represent a +capital outlay of over £200,000, or $1,000,000. The total maintenance +charges average about £16,500, or $82,000, per annum, while the dues +collected from shipping for the maintenance of these aids to navigation +approximate £38,000, or $190,000, per annum. The balance is not +amazing, and certainly is not sufficient to warrant heavy expenditure +towards new lights, as the installation of such warnings nowadays is +highly expensive if they are to conform with modern requirements. If +the demands of the critics were met, and a comprehensive scheme, such +as is advised, were taken in hand, the shipowner would have to pay +to meet the deficiency on the revenue account, and this individual +complains that he is overtaxed already. + +Those Australian States which possess what may be described as a normal +coastline--that is, one fairly free from solitary rocks rising from the +sea some distance from land--are fortunate, since the sea-rock light is +notoriously costly. On the other hand, lights placed on the mainland, +even of the most powerful type, may be completed for a small outlay, +relatively speaking. + +Such a fortunate condition exists in connection with New South Wales. +Here and there off the mainland are small reefs and ridges, but, taken +on the whole, all these danger spots are adequately covered, so that +the State has not been faced with searching problems of a technical +or financial character in this connection. The State boasts only two +“rock” lighthouses, and these obstructions are large enough to be +called “islands.” The one is South Solitary Island, off the coast north +of Sydney; the other is Montague Island, to the south of the port. On +the other hand, the mainland is very well patrolled, some thirty lights +being scattered between Point Danger and Cape Howe, the respective +northern and southern sea-limits of the country. + +Although the light-keepers upon the rocks may consider themselves +somewhat isolated, yet their plight is enviable as compared with that +of some of their comrades in other parts of the world. At Montague +Island the three keepers and their families are housed in comfortable +cottages in close proximity to their ward, and they maintain a small +farm, including a horse, goats, well-stocked gardens, and so forth. The +keepers on South Solitary Island used to be able to vary the monotony +of their daily or nightly round by indulgence in exciting sport. This +assumed the form of rabbit trapping and hunting, as the island was +overrun with these animals. One form of game must have become somewhat +nauseating in time upon the menu of the keepers, but this diversion +is now a thing of the past. A mysterious disease appeared among the +rabbits, and its ravages were so devastating that within a short time +Montague Island knew them no more. + +The lighthouses of New South Wales deserve distinction in one +direction. As specimens of architecture they are magnificent pieces +of work, so that what the towers lack in romance they make up in +attractiveness. The most imposing is the Macquarie tower, or Sydney +lighthouse, mounting guard over the harbour. The first beacon was +erected upon this site as far back as 1816, thereby rendering it the +first lighthouse in the State, and it was fitted with an oil light, +while one or two of the English lights were still open coal fires. In +1883 it was decided to modernize the lighting apparatus, so that a more +powerful beam might be thrown. Electricity was the illuminant selected, +the machinery for the generation of the requisite current being +designed for installation in the original tower. But three-quarters +of a century’s exposure to the elements had rendered this building +somewhat too weak to carry the requisite heavy lenses and machinery, +so a new tower was projected. The old light was kept going while its +successor sprang up alongside; when the latter was completed, the +oil light in the famous old tower was extinguished for ever and the +building demolished. + +The new lighthouse is a fine structure. At the foot of the tower is a +spacious, well-lighted, and artistic one-floor building housing the +electrical machinery as well as the office. The domiciles for the +keepers and the engineers are placed on either side of the spreading +lawn surrounding the station. + +[Illustration: THREE STRIKING GUARDIANS OE THE SHORE OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +1. Green Cape Lighthouse. 2. The sentinel of Sugar Loaf Point, or Seal +Rocks. 3. “Bungaree Norah” station, one of the loneliest on the coast.] + +The most southerly light upon the New South Wales coastline is that +at Green Cape, a few miles north of Cape Howe. As at the other +stations, three keepers are maintained, being accommodated, with their +families, in roomy cottages; while a small patch of land is turned to +agricultural advantage, cows, horses, etc., being maintained by the +men. The most easterly light on the Australian continent is at Cape +Byron. This light is perched on a dangerous cliff, which drops almost +vertically into the water 371 feet below; but it is within touch of +civilization, a winding road having been cut down the flank of the +promontory on the land side into the neighbouring town of Byron Bay, +so that the tradesmen’s carts are able to make their rounds up the +cliff to satisfy the varied wants of the wardens of the light. One +of the loneliest lights is that on Norah Head--Bungaree Norah it is +called--and this is also the latest light erected by the State, as +it dates from 1903. Although somewhat out of the way, it is not to +be compared with some of the isolated British, Canadian, and United +States lights, being, in fact, no more inaccessible or lonely than most +localities in the Australian Bush. + +Sugar-Loaf Point is one of the most serious danger spots along the +shoreline, but is now well guarded with a fine lighthouse planted on +its summit, the welcome rays of which are visible for many miles out to +sea. The light-keepers here had a surprising discovery one morning in +1910. The _Satara_ fouled the point and was wrecked, though fortunately +her passengers were succoured by passing steamers. On this vessel at +the time of the disaster there was a staghound, and although, when the +rescues were effected, search for the animal was made high and low +on the wreck, no signs of it could be seen. It was given up as lost. +Some days later the lighthouse-keepers ventured to the beach below to +have a look round, and to their astonishment a staghound come bounding +towards them, yelping with joy at the sight of a human face. For a dog +to be in such a lonely spot was a strange circumstance, but at last +it was surmised to be the animal which was missed on the _Satara_. +Apparently the animal clung to the crippled craft for some time, and +then, realizing that the ship was abandoned, dived overboard and swam +ashore. It fraternized with the keepers, and for some time kept them +company at the station. + +One of the worst wrecks which have happened upon the shores of New +South Wales was that of the steamer _Ly-ce-moon_. By some inexplicable +means the ship got out of her course on a fine Sunday night, and came +to grief off Green Cape. The lighthouse-keepers at once hurried to +the rescue, the hapless passengers, as they were got ashore, being +tended at the station until they were removed to their homes. The +lighthouse-keepers worked tremendously hard, but they were not entirely +successful. Although by herculean effort they brought a large number of +people to safety, there is a small fenced enclosure in the Bush behind +the station where lie the remains of some fifty persons who lost their +lives in the wreck, and whose bodies were washed ashore. + +While New South Wales has a comparatively easy length of coastline to +protect, the neighbouring colony of New Zealand, on the other hand, has +a wild, forbidding, and extensive stretch of shore. Up to the present +the Government has concentrated its energies upon the illumination of +the busiest reaches of water, and has planted prominent outposts at +the respective extreme tips of the twin islands. During the financial +year ending March 31, 1912, sixteen wrecks occurred in these seas, +of which six were total losses. The most ill-famed corner appears +to be the large sweeping indentation at the southern end of North +Island, lying between Cape Egmont and Wellington, particularly in the +vicinity of Wanganui, since this stretch of coast claimed five victims. +Cook’s Strait, which is dangerous to navigators, is well protected, +however, the most prominent beacon being that on Stephens Island, its +group-flashes, occurring every thirty seconds, being particularly +powerful, and having a range of thirty-two miles. + +[Illustration: THE CAPE BYRON LIGHTHOUSE, NEW SOUTH WALES.] + +[Illustration: THE MACQUARIE LIGHTHOUSE, SOUTH HEAD OF SYDNEY HARBOUR, +NEW SOUTH WALES. + +The original tower, erected in 1816, was the first lighthouse built in +the State. In 1882 it made way for the present magnificent station.] + +The Marine Department maintains thirty-two coastal lights, of which +twenty-two are on the mainland, and ten situate on islands off the +coast. They are of a varied description, ranging from powerful lights +of the first order to beacons dependent upon dissolved acetylene, +stored in cylinders of sufficient capacity to keep the light gleaming +for sixty days continuously. Some of the places in which the warning +lights are placed are exceedingly lonely and inaccessible, so that the +perfection of the unattended light has solved a complex problem, and +has enabled many terrible stretches of forbidding coast to be well +indicated. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +PAINTING THE TROUBRIDGE LIGHTHOUSE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA. + +Keeping the building in repair is one of the lighthouse-keepers’ +duties. This is especially urgent in the case of an iron structure. +This tower is 78 feet high, the light being visible for 15 miles.] + +The first tower to be brought into service in New Zealand was that +on Pencarrow Head, to indicate the entrance to the inlet in which +Wellington nestles. It shed its rays for the first time on New Year’s +Day, 1859. It is an iron structure, from the top of which a fixed white +light may be picked up by a vessel twenty-seven miles off the coast. +The iron had to be prepared and shaped in England, as there was no +foundry in the islands at that time capable of executing the work. The +building was shipped to New Zealand in sections and erected. To-day, +owing to the growth of the iron industry, the country can supply all +its own needs in this field without difficulty, but in all cases the +lanterns, mechanism, and lenses, have to be acquired in Europe. + +As may be imagined, with such a rugged coastline as New Zealand +possesses, some of the stations are terribly lonely and difficult +of access, owing to the treacherous nature of the waters over which +they mount guard. With the exception of the Brothers light, which +is situated on an exposed rock in Cook’s Strait, three keepers are +maintained at each island lighthouse--one as relief--and at the more +isolated mainland lights. Those of the latter stations which are within +easy reach of civilization have only two keepers. The Brothers light, +which is New Zealand’s most lonely station, has four keepers, three on +the rock at one time, while the fourth is ashore. The spell of service +on the rock is three months, followed by one month’s leave. The wives +and families of the men reside at Wellington. The authorities, +however, do not condemn the light-keeper to one station throughout his +whole term of service. He undergoes frequent transference, so that +all may have a turn at good and bad stations. The duration of the +stay at each light averages about three years, so that there is very +little possibility of these patient, long-suffering stalwarts being +condemned to such a period of loneliness as to provoke taciturnity and +melancholia. + +The keeper of the lighthouse light in New Zealand is as well provided +for as his colleague in any other part of the world. When he enters +the service, he is placed on probation as assistant keeper for six +months, at an annual salary of £90, or $450. Emerging from this ordeal +satisfactorily, he finds his salary increased at once to £100, or +$500, per annum, rising by increments of £10 every two years, until +it reaches £130, or $650, per annum. It remains at this figure until +he is promoted to the position of head-keeper, which post brings +an annual wage of £140, or $700, rising by biennial increments of +£10 to a maximum annual remuneration of £180, or $900. In addition +to the foregoing scale, a keeper receives an extra annual station +allowance of £10 in the case of third-class stations, which are those +on lonely rocks and islands, and £5 in the case of stations which are +not isolated or difficult of access. All keepers in the service live +rent-free, and are supplied with coal and oil, together with the free +use of sufficient land, if available, to prepare gardens, as well as +grazing for two or three cows and a few sheep, etc.; while their stores +and provisions are carried without charge by the Government steamer +_Hinemoa_. This vessel is retained solely for attending upon the +lighthouses and buoys, and visits every light, save in exceptionally +rough weather, once in three months. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +GREEN POINT LIGHTHOUSE, NATAL. + +A well-known South African warning with a range of 23 miles.] + +[Illustration: THE PACIFIC OUTPOST OF THE UNITED STATES. + +The _San Francisco_ Lightship throws a flashing electric beam of 700 +candle-power and is fitted also with the submarine bell.] + +At all the isolated and rock stations landing is a hazardous task, +even under the most favourable conditions. The swell and currents +breaking upon the rocks render it impossible for freight and men to be +landed direct from the steamer to the rock. Consequently all the work +has to be carried out by means of surf-boats, and heavy drenchings +from breaking waves, and exciting moments, are unavoidable. At times +the task assumes exceptional difficulty, and is attended with fatal +mishaps. On June 2, 1899, the _Hinemoa_ stood in towards the East +Cape, the most easterly promontory on the islands, on the southern arm +enclosing the Bay of Plenty. The sea looked wicked, but the relieving +ship decided to go ahead with its work. All went well until a heavy +roller suddenly came in and caught one of the boats at a disadvantage. +The craft was capsized before the crew realized their position, and +the chief officer, with three of his men, was drowned. Such is one of +the penalties which have been exacted by the relentless sea, while +courageous men have been engaged in the risky occupation of keeping the +coast lights shining for the guidance of seafarers. + +The New Zealand shores have been the scenes of some heartrending +catastrophes. The steamship _Tararua_, of 563 tons register, was making +her way from Dunedin to the Bluff, when she crashed on to the reef +which juts seaward from Waipapapa Point. There was no light to warn +the ship--hence the accident. The vessel, battered by sledge-hammer +seas, broke up very rapidly, and 130 passengers lost their lives. If +the point had been guarded, no accident would have happened. Now a +second-order dioptric flashing light of ten seconds guards the reef, +and may be seen from a distance of thirteen and a half miles. Another +calamity was the loss of the _Huddart Parker_ liner on a danger +spot known as the Three Kings Rock. The fearsome character of this +peril has been recognized for many years past, but, as it is to be +marked by a light suited to the locality, it is hoped that its evil +harvest will come to an end. Yet at the same time it must be pointed +out that the provision of a light does not always prevent a wreck +even in the clearest weather, owing to the weakness of human nature. +This was proved by the steamship _Triumph_, of 1,797 tons register. +She left Auckland on the night of November 29, 1883, picked up the +Tiri-Tiri Island light--this fixed star can be seen from a distance of +twenty-four miles--and yet within two hours of her sailing was wrecked +almost under the lighthouse. In this instance gross negligence was +only too palpable, and the court of inquiry, after its investigation +of the wreck, signified its opinion of the carelessness displayed by +suspending the certificate of the master for three years, and that of +the chief officer for six months. + +Apart from Cook’s Strait, the narrow passage between the two islands, +the extreme points of the country are well guarded, the towers for the +most part being located upon the prominent headlands. The southern +extremity of the South Island is a dangerous coast to navigate, since +going east, after the Puysegur Point ten seconds flashing light is +dropped at a distance of nineteen miles from the headland, the vessel’s +course is set to traverse Foveaux Strait, between the mainland and +Stewart Island. In the centre of the neck of water is an ominous +rock, Centre Island, which, however, is well guarded by a first-order +catadioptric fixed light, shining from a wooden tower, the range of +which extends for twenty-two and a half miles, with red arcs marking +the inshore dangers. Overlapping this beacon’s field of patrol is a +light mounted on Dog Island, revolving once in thirty seconds, and +visible for eighteen miles, which in turn meets the Waipapapa light. +Thus the approach to Invercargill is well indicated, and, with the east +coast promontories all protected, the possibility of a repetition of +the _Tararua_ disaster is rendered remote. + +On the extreme northern tip of the sister isle, the headland known +as Cape Maria Van Diemen carries a first-order dioptric light, +revolving once a minute, illuminating a circle of sea having a +radius of twenty-four and a half miles. The adjacent headland at the +opposite corner of this spit, North Cape, has not been protected +hitherto; but this deficiency is now being remedied by the erection +of a second-order, incandescent, group-flashing white light, giving +three flashes in quick succession every half-minute. The brilliant +illumination of this part of the coast is imperative, inasmuch as +shipping bound for and from Auckland has to bear round this heavily +indented and rock-strewn coast. The entrance to Auckland harbour in +particular is disconcerting, but the navigator is assisted by the +friendly guardians placed on Cape Brett, Moko Hinou, and Tiri-Tiri, +which have ranges of thirty and a half, twenty-six, and twenty-four +miles, respectively. The task of the mariner, however, is to be further +simplified by the erection of another powerful light on Chicken +Island, in the Hauraki Gulf, which will overlap the Moko Hinou and +Tiri-Tiri lights. When this light and that at North Cape are placed in +commission, the sea between Cape Maria Van Diemen and Auckland will +be very well lighted, and will offer the ship’s master few causes for +complaint. Two other points are being equipped, Castle Point and Cape +Terawhiti, the former with a second-order, incandescent, group-flashing +white light, flashing at intervals of forty-five seconds, with periods +of darkness lasting eight seconds between each group. + +While the majority of the New Zealand coastal lights are attended, +certain beacons, from their exposed position, come in the category of +unattended lights, as described elsewhere. These burn acetylene gas, +and are replaced with fresh supplies of dissolved acetylene every +three months by the _Hinemoa_. Simultaneously with the provision of +additional beacons the existing lights are being overhauled and fitted +with modern apparatus, rendering them more reliable, economical, and +of greater power. When the service was established, the Doty burner, +using paraffin-oil, was adopted; but the perfection of the incandescent +oil system, and its many advantages over that in vogue, have influenced +the Government towards its adoption. The transformation will be +completed as soon as practicable, the work being in active progress, as +maintenance expenses are reduced appreciably thereby, because kerosene, +a cheaper oil, is used in lieu of paraffin, while, furthermore, less +oil is burned under the incandescent system. + +Before many years have passed, the coasts of New Zealand will be as +adequately protected as is humanly possible by a complete chain of +coastal lights, which is being forged as rapidly as the circumstances +permit. The Government has revised its light-dues in order to meet +the increased expenditure in connection with the lighthouse service. +Vessels arriving from outside the Dominion have to pay oversea +light-dues at the first port of call, and coastal dues at all other +New Zealand ports which they touch; while vessels arriving from the +Chatham, Auckland, Campbell, Antipodes, and Bounty Islands also have to +contribute to the funds. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +THE SIGNPOSTS OF THE SANDBANKS + + +Although by dint of great effort and the expenditure of considerable +ingenuity the lighthouse engineer has succeeded in erecting a permanent +masonry tower upon a foundation no more substantial than quicksand, +yet the general method of indicating these menaces is by the aid of +a lightship. In this way the estuaries leading to the great ports +of the world, which are littered with ridges, humps, and mounds, of +mud and sand brought down by the river or thrown up by the sea, are +guarded very completely. There is the Nore lightship at the entrance +to the Thames, the Bar and North-West lightships off the mouth of the +Mersey, Fire Island near the portal to New York, and so on. Similarly, +the whereabouts of huge stretches of sand lying off a coast, which +either defy detection altogether or only partially expose themselves +at low-water, and which constitute certain death-traps, are shown. The +most striking illustrations of this application are supplied by the +Goodwin Sands, the submerged sandy plateau lying off the east coast of +England, and by the serried rows of ridges running seven and a half +miles out to sea from Cape Hatteras, the ill-famed headland of North +Carolina. + +The utilization of the lightship, however, is not restricted by any +means to marking shoals and sandbanks. Here and there are clusters of +rocks obstructing the ocean highway, which from their extremely exposed +character would offer the engineer a searching and expensive problem to +solve, and which, accordingly, are protected by a floating light. But, +taken on the whole, the lightship is used very sparingly. If it is at +all possible to provide a permanent structure, even at an apparently +prohibitive cost, upon a danger spot, this practice is followed in +preference to the mooring of a light-vessel thereto. A masonry tower is +stationary in its resistance to the assaults of the wildest tempest, +but the lightship swings like a cork at the free end of a chain. At +times it drags its anchors, and thereby unconsciously shifts its +position, so that it may throw its light from some distance beyond the +actual area of danger. Again, a lightship, although not costly in the +first instance, is somewhat expensive to maintain. It cannot withstand +the poundings of the waves and the force of the wind for long without +developing some signs of weakness. It may ride over its reef or shoal +for several years, but depreciation is sure to set in, so that at last +it becomes too decrepit to be trusted. Moreover, the number of men +required to man a lightship exceeds the force necessary to maintain a +lighthouse. + +Lightships follow much the same general shape and construction the +whole world over. There is very little opportunity to depart from +well-tried lines; the experience of a century and more has indicated +conclusively the form of hull, as regards both material and shape, best +adapted to the peculiar work which has to be fulfilled. The modern +lightship is essentially a British idea, the first floating beacon +of this description having been built and placed in the mouth of the +Thames as far back as 1713. From this small beginning, which virtually +was an experiment, has grown the large fleet of light-vessels scattered +all over the globe. + +The craft is sturdily built, and, although of clumsy appearance, +is capable of withstanding the onslaughts of the fiercest gales. +Internally it is made as snug as possible, but the opportunities in +this direction are not very extensive, as the beacon is built primarily +to protect ships and lives against accident, and comfort is necessarily +made subordinate to reliability, durability, and serviceability. + +A mere hulk would be the most apt description as applied to the average +lightship. It is intended to cling to one spot through thick and thin, +and not to move about. In the majority of instances the vessel is +without any propelling or sailing accessories. If it should happen to +break its leashes, it then becomes the sport of the waves, as helpless +as a derelict, until its signals of distress are espied and it is +picked up by a passing vessel. Although every precaution is adopted +to preserve the lightship from this mishap, when the waves become +exceptionally heavy and violent the strongest chains are apt to snap +under the sawing and tugging of the vessel. In one or two instances +lively times have been experienced by the handful of men on board, +especially off the wicked stretches of the American seaboard which is +exposed to the attack of hurricane and cyclone. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo, Paul, Penzance._ + +THE “SEVEN-STONES” LIGHTSHIP. + +This vessel, probably occupying the most exposed position around +England, marks a terrible danger spot off the Cornish coast.] + +In her helplessness, the light-vessel depends upon the friendly aid +of any craft. The rescuer may be the alert tender, which, having +received intimation that the floating beacon has got adrift, raises +steam in all haste, hurries out, scours the seas for the wanderer, +recovers and rechains her to the danger spot below. Or it may be that +a passing· steamer sights the breakaway, retrieves and restores her to +the allotted position, making her temporarily secure, and reporting her +condition when passing or entering a port. + +The lightship may be identified easily. There is nothing inspiring +about her lines. Her ugly hull, built for strength and not beauty, +is painted red, black, or white, according to the colour practice +of the country to which she belongs, while on her sides in huge +letters, stretching almost from water-line to taffrail, is the name +of her station, “Nore,” “Seven Stones,” “Norderney,” “Ruytingen,” +“Fire Island,” or whatever it may be. Nor is this the sole means +of identification. From afar the mariner learns her character and +business by a huge skeleton sphere, a triangular cage, or some other +device, carried at the top of the mast or masts. At night a lantern, +entirely surrounding the mast, and large enough to enable a person +to stand upright within to trim the lamps, throws its warning glare +from an elevation about halfway between the deck and the mast-top with +the intensity of 12,000 or more candles. Oil is the illuminant most +generally employed for the purpose, although in one or two instances +electric light is used. + +The specific purpose of the lightship, as already mentioned, is to +warn passing vessels. But the French Government, when they made an +elaborate investigation of their lightship service with a view to its +modernization and elaboration, discovered that at times the floating +signpost fulfils another and unofficial duty. The entrance to St. Malo +Harbour is flanked by an uneven group of rocks lying about midway +between the French coast and the island of Jersey. Though a terrible +spot for mariners, it is one of incalculable value to the sturdy +French and Jersey fishermen, as in the waters around these barriers +rich hauls may be made with the net; indeed, the fishing industry here +affords employment for several score of persons. The French Government +contemplated the withdrawal of the lightship marking the Minquiers, as +these rocks are called, and the substitution in its stead of a number +of powerful automatic buoys which would indicate the exact position +of the most conspicuous dangers, whereas the lightship only indicated +their general whereabouts, compelling mariners to calculate their +distances from the peril, which, by the way, was no easy matter owing +to the short range of the beacon. + +[Illustration: THE “SAN FRANCISCO” LIGHTSHIP. + +This vessel, riding in 18 fathoms, marks the entrance to the Golden +Gate and San Francisco Bay.] + +Before making a decision, the Commission interviewed the French +fishermen to ascertain their views upon the subject. To their intense +surprise, a suggestion which they thought would be received with +unmixed approval was condemned unequivocally. There was not a single +fisherman who could be found to support the buoy system. The unanimity +of the objection aroused suspicions, and further investigation was +made to probe the cause of this unveiled hostility. The answer was +found without effort. The fishermen pushed off in their boats every +night to the grounds, but they did not spend the whole of their time +throwing and hauling their nets. When their luck was in, or they were +satisfied with the catch, one and all pulled for the lightship. There +was not another café within a dozen miles, and fishing is thirsty work. +So the lightship was converted into a nocturnal hostelry. The keepers +charged the glasses, and the captains courageous sipped and quaffed to +a whistling accompaniment, finally indulging in terpsichorean acts on +the lightship’s decks, to give vent to their exuberant spirits. They +did not care whether the light overhead were throwing its yellow beams +over the waters or not. They made merry, and kept up the orgy until the +approaching dawn or the watch showed that it was high time to pull for +the shore with their catches. It was a fortunate circumstance for these +happy-go-lucky spirits that the beacon was not regarded by mariners +as of much utility at night, owing to the feebleness of its light. +If seafarers failed to pick up the Minquiers’s shimmering star, they +attributed the obscurity to the haze. That was all. + +This revelation, needless to say, clinched the Commission’s decision. +To-day four unattended gas-buoys mount vigil over these rocks, and the +rollicking days on the floating _café chantant_ are known no more. + +The average crew for a lightship numbers some seven men under a captain +and mate, who take it in turns to have charge of the vessel, the second +official being responsible during the former’s spell of leave on shore. +The crew is not a man too many, owing to the several and varied duties +to be performed, especially when the storm-fiend is roused or fog pays +a visit. The arrival of the latter demands the foghorn’s mournful +dirge to penetrate the dense white curtain. Some of the vessels +possess a hooter, the unmusical wail of which in its discordance is +almost sufficient to put false teeth on edge, because a blast runs +through the whole chromatic gamut with variations which would startle +a disciple of Tschaikowsky or Wagner. But discordance in this instance +is of incalculable value. The ear of the captain of a passing vessel +is unconsciously arrested; he can distinguish the sound readily, and +by noting its character can identify the particular light-vessel from +which it proceeds, although he cannot get a glimpse of her form. + +The southern coasts of England, owing to the density of the maritime +traffic, especially on both sides of the bottle-neck formed by the +Straits of Dover, are well patrolled by this form of warning which +supplements the lighthouses. Those guarding the dreaded Goodwin Sands +perhaps are the most important. The crew of a vessel in these waters +is busy throughout the day and night even in calm, clear weather, and +the feeling of isolation is not so pronounced, since the continuous +sight of traffic dispels despondency. The Nore light is another station +which encounters very few minutes of rest throughout the complete +revolution of the clock hands; especially is this the case when fog +settles down, rendering the Thames inapproachable, so that incoming +craft have to line up in long queues, ready to dash forward directly +the pall lifts sufficiently for them to see 100 yards ahead. + +There have been some exciting incidents among the lights strung +around the south-eastern toe of England. The vessel outside Dover +harbour appears to be particularly unlucky, or to exercise such a +peculiar magnetism upon passing vessels that they must needs embrace +her. This is the peril that a lightship crew dreads more than any +other. Certainly it seems a sorry trick of Fortune that occasionally +the workers in the cause of humanity should be compelled to fight +desperately for their lives from a blow inflicted by the very interests +they strive might and main to protect. The Dover light was sent to the +bottom twice within a very short time, and in each instance the men +were rescued only in the nick of time. On another occasion a relief +lightship was being towed to a station on the east coast, the acting +vessel being much in need of overhaul and repair. The tug laboured +through the North Sea with her charge, and just before daybreak sighted +the twinkling light which was her goal. She eased up, meaning to +stand by with her charge until the beacon’s round of vigilance should +be over, and the light extinguished before the gathering dawn. Her +crew saw the light grow dimmer, until it was no longer of sufficient +power to penetrate the whitening haze. With the sun just creeping +over the horizon the tug weighed anchor, and, heralding her approach +vociferously on the siren, steamed slowly towards the danger spot. To +the surprise of the captain, there came no answering blare. When he +thought he was alongside the light-vessel he stopped, and the haze +lifted. But there was no sign of the light-vessel; she had vanished +completely. The captain of the tug and the master of the relief-boat +wondered what had happened, but without more ado the relief-ship was +moored in position, and the tug returned home empty-handed. There the +crew heard one of those grim stories sometimes related in the service. +The light-keepers had sighted the tug with the relief-vessel, and were +anticipating keenly their return to civilization, when there was a +crash! A cliff of steel reared above them like a knife-edge; a vessel +had blundered into them, cutting their home in two. The next moment +they were shot pell-mell into the water as their craft sank beneath +their feet. + +On a calm day, when the lightship is riding quietly at anchor, and +the members of the crew, maybe, are beguiling the tedium by fishing, +a passer-by on a liner is apt to consider the life one of quietness +and enjoyment, albeit monotonous. But contrast this placidity with the +hours of storm. Then the ungainly vessel writhes and twists, saws and +rasps at the chains which hold her prisoner. At one moment, with bow +uplifted, she is on the crest of a spray-enveloped roller; the next +instant she drives her dipping nose into the hissing white and green +valley, meanwhile lurching and staggering wildly as she ships a sea, +first on this side and then on that. + +The plight of the lighthouse-keeper in a gale is unenviable, but it is +far and away preferable to that of the lightship crew under similar +circumstances. The tower may bow slightly like a tree before the storm, +and the waves may cause it to shiver at times, but that is the only +movement. On the lightship the crew appear to be tossed, rolled, and +spun, in all directions simultaneously. The deck becomes untenable, but +the men in the performance of their duties have to grope and crawl from +point to point, holding on grimly with both hands when an angry sea +douches them. The spherical ball overhead gyrates in an amazing manner, +as if it were a pendulum bob boxing the compass. The crew have a stiff +struggle, to keep everything below safe and sound, while the waves, +as they come aboard, thump on the deck as if determined to smash it +to splinters, and to drive the whole fabric to the bottom. To be so +unlucky as to be run down by a passing craft under such conditions is +certain death, as there is no hope of rescue in such maddened seas. + +The crew of an English ship emerged badly battered from one heavy gale. +Two or three rollers got aboard, and drove their blows well home, +pulverizing the lifeboat on deck, and tearing up stretches of the +bulwarks by the roots. The crew were flung about like shuttlecocks. One +of the hands was making his way cautiously along the deck, trying to +maintain equilibrium upon an alarming incline, when a breaker struck +him from behind. He grabbed the ratlins to secure himself, but his +hand was wrenched away, and he was flung against the mast, where the +wave left him. He was half stunned by the concussion, but a comrade, +realizing his plight, dashed forward while the vessel rolled over +in the other direction, grabbed the prostrate form by the collar of +its coat, and dragged it into the companion-way. The man’s face was +disfigured, and when bathed it was found to have been cut, or rather +burst, open from the eye to the chin by the force of the blow. + +Bad weather tends to make the crew despondent at times, inasmuch as its +persistency holds them prisoners, so that they cannot get ashore when +the relief day comes round. During some seasons of the year a delay of +ten or twelve days is not uncommon, owing to the weather, but the men +on the relief tender are so used to hard knocks and rough seas that +they do not wait for an absolute calm to achieve their purpose. Heavy +risks are incurred often in order to lighten the lives of those who +guard the deep by bringing them ashore as near to the scheduled date as +possible. + +Another ship that has to mount guard over a dangerous corner of the +coast of England is that which indicates the cluster of rocks lying +between Land’s End and the Scilly Isles, about sixteen miles off the +mainland. For the most part the reef is submerged, but as the water +goes down seven ugly scattered pinnacles thrust themselves into the +air. They are terrible fangs with which to rip out the bottom of a +steamer, and they have accomplished their fell work only too often. The +number of the projections has given its name to the graveyard, which is +known far and wide as the Seven Stones, though the mariner refers to +them simply as The Stones. + +It would be difficult to say offhand which has claimed the greater +number of victims from the mercantile marine--the sucking, glue-like +sands of the Goodwins, or the splitting granite teeth of the Seven +Stones; they run a close race for ill-fame. The latter lie right in the +path of vessels rounding the western toe of England, and the sea-bed +on all sides of them is littered with the shivered timbers of wooden +sailing-ships, the splintered iron and steel of steamers, and the bones +of scores of unfortunate passengers and crews. Although a light of +12,000 candle-power strives to warn the seafarer, now and again there +is a miscalculation, and the intimation is conveyed to the mainland: +“Ship and all hands lost.” + +It was in 1841, owing to the frequency and severity of the disasters +at this spot, that Trinity House decided to guard it with a lightship. +A lighthouse would be preferable, but there is such small foothold +for the engineer, and the position is so fearfully exposed, that +the erection of a masonry tower would prove a costly and tedious +enterprise. So the only feasible alternative was adopted, and the +vessel is kept abreast of modern developments in this phase of coast +lighting. Lying as it does in a somewhat narrow channel, yet open to +the full roll of the terrible westerly gales, it meets the Atlantic +thundering through this constricted passage with awe-inspiring +violence. It has often suffered greatly from the fury of the sea. Once +a wave tumbled aboard, crashed a man against the pump, knocked him half +senseless; picked up the lifeboat and threw it against the deck-house, +and in so doing caught another member of the crew, mauling his thigh +badly in passing. Two out of the seven men forming the crew were thus +put _hors de combat_ by a single wave. The taut little vessel rides in +40 fathoms of water, about one and a half miles eastward of the danger +spot, as even a lightship must not be moored too closely to a ridge, or +she herself would incur the risk of being pounded to fragments. + +The French lighthouse service has a magnificent lightship in the +_Ruytingen_, which rides in 60 feet of water over a treacherous +sandbank outside Dunkirk. It is a steel vessel about 100 feet in +length, and displaces in loaded condition about 387 tons. It is held in +position by massive umbrella-like anchors, weighing some 2 tons, which, +burying themselves in the ground, refuse to drag even under the most +fearful tugs and jerks imposed by a gale, while the chains which hold +the ship in leash are able to give her a run of approximately 1,000 +feet. + +The German coast is as dangerous to approach, owing to the shoals and +banks, as the eastern shores of England, and one or two magnificent +lightships have been built and stationed over the most notorious +danger areas, among which may be mentioned the _Norderney_ and _Eider_ +vessels. The latter is about 133 feet in length by 24 feet wide, and is +fitted with three masts. It throws a fixed white light, which may be +seen on all sides from eight to eleven miles away. This boat is fitted +with every modern device to increase its warning powers and service, +including wireless telegraphy and the submarine bell. + +These two latter inventions have improved the serviceability of the +lightship to a vast degree, inasmuch as the ocean liners and many +freighters are equipped with both these useful handmaids to navigation. +The tolling of the bell under water may be heard for several miles, and +conveys intimation of the approach to danger in foggy weather, when the +siren or other fog-signal is somewhat precarious. + +The _Norderney_ lightship is probably one of the finest craft in +operation upon the seven seas. Before it was designed the German +engineers carried out a thorough inspection of all the most modern +lightships in service in Europe, and from the results of their +investigations contrived this magnificent aid to navigation. The vessel +is about 150 feet in length, and is built of steel. The light is shown +from a lantern fitted with a third-order pendular lens carried at the +top of a hollow steel mast. The illuminant used is Pintsch’s oil-gas, +with incandescent mantle, the fuel being stored in reservoirs stowed in +the hold of the ship; fresh supplies are brought out by the tender at +periodical intervals. Weight-driven clockwork mechanism is employed to +revolve the lantern. The light is one of the most powerful in European +waters, 50,000 candle-power being emitted with an incandescent gas +mantle having a diameter of 30 millimetres (1¼ inches). + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission._ + +THE “NORDERNEY” LIGHTSHIP. + +One of the finest in the world.] + +The vessel is also equipped with 200 horse-power oil-engines, driving +an air-compressor for the operation of the fog-siren, the air being +stored in reservoirs in the hold and maintained at the working +pressure, so that the signal may be brought into service at a moment’s +notice. The vessel is also furnished with a Pintsch submarine bell, +driven by compressed air. When not required, this bell is housed +amidships on the spar-deck, and when the occasion arises for its +service it is lowered into the water through an open tube built in +the ship for this purpose. This important light-vessel carries a full +complement of thirteen men, including the captain, mate, and engineer. +The arrangement is, one-third of the crew on shore-leave at a time; but +this does not apply to the winter months, when the full number has to +remain on board, owing to the duties being more arduous and continuous +during that season of the year. + +“Fire Island!” What a thrill the sound of this name sends through the +floating town approaching the New World from Europe. Its effect is +magical among the emigrants who scan the horizon eagerly for the first +glimpse of this outpost of the new home, in which all their hopes +are centred. The sullen red hull of this flush-deck, schooner-rigged +steam-vessel, with her two masts, and name painted in huge white +letters on her flanks, rides in 96 feet of water, nine and three-eighth +miles south of Fire Island lighthouse. A few miles beyond is a similar +craft marking the Nantucket Shoals, whence incoming and outgoing +vessels are reported, while the end of the chain is “No. 87,” +marking the Ambrose Channel off the entrance to New York. + +But the light-vessel controlled by the United States which occupies +the most responsible and perilous post is the _Diamond Shoal_, off +Cape Hatteras. It throws its warning rays from a spot about four and +five-eighth miles beyond the most seaward point of this terrible ocean +graveyard, and is thirteen and five-eighth miles distant from Cape +Hatteras light on the mainland. A long way from the actual danger spot, +you say, but the little squad of men who have to maintain the light +through storm and calm will tell you that the situation, in 180 feet of +water, is quite as near as is pleasant when there is the ever-present +danger of anchors being dragged, or of the craft breaking adrift under +the force of the cyclonic disturbances which ravage this sinister +coast. Even in calm weather the relief-boat has many anxious moments, +owing to the swell and currents, while storms rise with startling +suddenness. While the exchange of men is being made and stores are +being transferred, a keen lookout is kept by the relief-boat hands so +as to be ready to cut and run for the open sea the moment the clouds +begin to collect ominously. In these latitudes the weather is placid +one minute; the next the elements are writhing in fury. + +[Illustration: THE “FIRE ISLAND” LIGHTSHIP, THE ATLANTIC OUTPOST OF THE +UNITED STATES. + +This vessel rides in 96 feet of water, 9¾ miles south of the Fire +Island Lighthouse.] + +Probably this is the most dangerous station on the whole seaboard, +and if any heavy trouble is caused by the tempest, the _Diamond +Shoal_ inevitably bears grim evidence of the conflict. The skill of +the engineers is taxed sorely to devise ways and means of keeping the +vessel in the position she is designed to occupy, but moorings and +anchors must be of great weight and strength to stand up against a wind +blowing eighty miles an hour, with the waves running “mountains high” +and repeatedly sweeping the vessel from stem to stern. After every +battle a careful look round has to be made to determine how far the +vessel has shifted. Being steam-driven, this craft is not condemned to +absolute helplessness when her moorings snap. The crew get her under +control and keep her head pointed in the desired direction, so as to +mitigate the battering of the wind and waves, and not moving more than +is essential for safety. Subsequently the vessel crawls back to her +position, the bearings are taken, and she is anchored firmly once more. + +One hurricane swept Cape Hatteras, and the lightship received its full +energy. The boat strained and groaned at her chains. Suddenly they +snapped. No steam could hold the boat against the assault. She was +picked up, thrown about like an empty box, and carried inshore, luckily +missing the ridges of sand. Had she plumped into one, it would have +gripped her tightly while the waves pounded her to fragments. The crew +were helpless and could only wonder what the end would be, as they saw +the rugged coastline approach nearer and nearer. When they thought all +was over and that their fate was sealed, a big incoming wave snatched +the lightship, hurried her along on its bosom, and dropped her on the +beach, practically uninjured, and safe from further attack. + +When the crew surveyed their position, they found themselves faced with +a difficult proposition. The ship was safe and sound, but on the wrong +side of the shoals, and the question was how to lift her over those +greedy ridges. There was only one method. That was to dig a pit around +her on the beach, let in the water so that she could float, and then to +cut a wide deep trench out to sea so as to regain deep water. It was +feasible, and was attempted. While the pond on the beach was being dug, +a powerful dredger came up, and ploughed its way through the shoals +from deep water to the stranded light-vessel. When the craft was once +more afloat, the dredger carved its way back again, the light-vessel +being taken through the narrow, shallow ditch thus provided, which +was closed up by the running sand as the two boats crept slowly +forward, until at last the shoals were negotiated. The ship was taken +to headquarters, the relief-vessel, which is always kept ready for an +emergency, having taken up her position on the station immediately the +hurricane had blown itself out. + +Under these circumstances it will be realized that the maintenance +of the _Diamond Shoal_ light is by no means a sinecure. When these +adversities are aggravated by the relief-boat being unable to fulfil +its scheduled duty, when week after week slips by without the men +receiving the welcome spell ashore, while they are suffering privations +and experiencing the nerve-shattering pangs of isolation and monotony, +it is not surprising that despondency shows signs of getting the upper +hand among the crew. Melancholia is the malady which is feared most +on a light-vessel such as this, and the men have to pull themselves +together to resist its insidious grip. Probably at times there is half +an inclination to desert the light, but fortunately there is little +fear of this temptation succeeding. The axiom “Never abandon the light” +is too deeply rooted; besides, the men are safer where they are, +although it appears a crazy refuge in rough weather. + +Prolonged imprisonment on the _Diamond Shoal_ precipitated one mutiny. +The crew on duty were awaiting the arrival of the reserve vessel +to take them home; but the weather disposed otherwise. With that +inexplicable persistence, the wind got round to a rough quarter and +kept there tenaciously, never moderating for a few hours, but just +blowing, blowing, blowing, getting up a nasty sea which made the +lightship reel and tumble, while at intervals a comber came aboard to +flush the decks. + +In the course of ten days or so the crew began to fret and fume +at the obstinacy of the elements; when a month slipped by without +bringing any welcome relief, the mate and the engineer incurred the +captain’s dire displeasure by fraternizing and playing cards with +the crew, thereby creating a breach of discipline and etiquette. The +offenders, somewhat overwrought by their continued incarceration, +ignored the captain’s reprimand. This arrant disobedience played +upon his nerves, which similarly were strung up. It did not require +a very big spark to start a conflagration of tempers. The mate and +engineer brooded over the captain’s remarks, and at last they waited +upon him, forcibly ventilated their opinions concerning his lack of +civility and of endeavours to make one and all comfortable under the +trying circumstances, and expressed their determination to tolerate +his overbearing manner no longer. This was the last straw from the +captain’s point of view. Drawing his revolver, he growled that he was +master of the lightship, and that they would have to do as he told +them. There was a tussle, but the firearm was wrenched away from the +master’s hands as being a somewhat too dangerous tool for a man in his +overstrung condition. The crew naturally sided with the officers, and +the captain was kept under surveillance until the relief-vessel came up +some weeks later. + +The moment the crew stepped on dry land, every man, with the exception +of the mate, deserted the ship, thoroughly satiated with the +uncertainty pertaining to watching the Diamond Shoals. They indulged +in a hearty carousal, and were arrested. And the captain, who also +was not averse to enjoyment on shore, having lodged the charge of +mutiny, followed their example. An inquiry was held, and the sequel is +interesting. The captain, having deserted his ship upon reaching port, +was dismissed from the service; the mate, who had provoked the captain, +not only was acquitted of the grave charge, but was promoted to the +command of the light-vessel, because there was one outstanding feature +in his favour which negatived everything else--he had stuck to his post. + +Life on a lightship, although somewhat strenuous, has its interludes. +In fine weather the men have considerable time on their hands, and +while away the hours in various occupations. Fretwork, mat-making, +carpentering, and other hobbies, are followed with keen enjoyment. +Owing to the light attracting flocks of birds during the migratory +seasons, the men often effect valuable captures on the deck, rare +songsters and other specimens falling exhausted into their hands. Cages +are contrived, and the silence of the living-quarters is relieved by +the piping and trilling of the birds when once they have shaken down to +their captivity. Meteorological work, which is practised in some cases, +relieves the round of toil, while contributions to science are made by +investigating the depths of the sea and its bed with small trawls and +other devices, so as to secure data concerning life in the deep, the +vagaries of currents, submarine temperatures, and so forth. + +The lightship, however, is both a safeguard and a menace. When she +is riding quietly at the end of her chains she is an incalculable +boon to the passing mariner, but after a gale the navigator and the +light-keepers are suspicious. The boat may, and indeed probably has, +dragged her anchors somewhat. Now, the seafarer on his chart has the +precise position which the lightship should occupy. Consequently, if +she has shifted and he is unaware of the error, his calculations will +lead him astray. After a tempest the master of a lightship endeavours +to ascertain if his craft has moved, and if he can he takes his +bearings at once. If this is impossible, or if he entertains any doubt +in his mind, he flies a signal, which warns the navigator that the +lightship has moved. Unless the vessel is able to regain her station +under her own steam, she communicates with the shore at once, and a +boat is sent out to reset her. Every time the relief is effected the +officer in charge takes the bearings, so that the lightship may be +truly in the position she is intended to assume, and able to effect her +humane work satisfactorily. + +The evolution of the most efficient illuminating apparatus for the +lightship has been a most perplexing problem to the lighthouse +engineer. What is applicable for the masonry tower is not necessarily +adapted to its floating contemporary, since the conditions are so +dissimilar. The United States service has adopted electric lighting +on all its steam-driven vessels, the current being easily obtainable +in this instance. On the whole, however, oil is the most popular form +of illuminant, the burners--there are several lamps arranged in a +ring round the mast--being fitted with two circular wicks, one within +the other; while behind the lamp an ordinary parabolic reflector is +placed in order to increase the intensity of the light produced. +These reflectors are disposed in such a manner around the mast that +the concentrated beam of light from one lamp just overlaps the rays +which are projected similarly from the lamp placed on either side, the +result being that a fixed white light of equal luminosity throughout +the circle is projected. But, unlike the illuminant in the lighthouse, +the light is not stationary in its vertical plane; it is swung from +side to side and up and down in rhythm with the movement of the vessel. +Under these circumstances, at one moment the light would project a +short ray owing to the declination of the beam in relation to the line +of the water, thereby bringing it below the horizon, while the next +moment, when the ship lurched in the opposite direction, the ray of +light would be thrown into the air and above the horizon. The problem +is to keep the light at one steady angle, irrespective of the motion +of the vessel, and this end is achieved by hanging each reflector +upon gimbals, so that the rolling practically is counteracted, the +reflectors maintaining a constant vertical position. + +Some lights are of the flashing type, and in this instance the +reflectors are disposed in groups. Here the gimbals, carrying the +reflectors, are mounted upon the framework which revolves around the +mast by clockwork mechanism, and are so arranged as to give any type of +distinguishing flash that may be desired. In the most approved types +of modern lightships, however, the dioptric apparatus is incorporated, +means having been discovered to avoid breakage from the rolling motion +of the ship, while the risk of throwing the beam above or below the +horizon according to the rolling of the boat is overcome. In this case +the lamps and reflectors are disposed on a turntable in the lantern, +with the dioptric apparatus mounted very carefully so as to secure +a true balance upon gimbals. The apparatus for revolving the light +is erected in a deck-house, the weight actuating the mechanism being +permitted to rise and fall in a special tube extending from the bottom +of the ship to the deck. The rotary action thus produced is transmitted +from the deck to the lantern above by means of a vertical shaft and +pinion. While ordinary lamps are installed as a rule in the lanterns, +Messrs. Chance Brothers and Co., the Birmingham lighthouse illuminating +engineers, have succeeded in adapting their incandescent oil-vapour +system, which has proved so eminently successful in lighthouses, to +light-vessels, with a very decided increase in the candle-power, and +marked economy in oil consumption and cost of upkeep. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +A FLAMING SENTINEL OF THE MALACCA STRAITS + + +With the development of commerce between Europe, China, and Japan, +following the awakening of the East, it became imperative to render +the seas approaching these countries far safer to navigation. If one +consults the atlas, and follows the routes taken by the great liners +from Britain and the Continent to the Orient, he will see a rampart +forming the boundary between the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea. +This is the East Indian Archipelago, and it bristles with dangers of +all descriptions to the mercantile traffic flowing to and fro. After +leaving India, the steamships turn their noses towards Singapore, at +the extremity of the Malay Peninsula; but this busy port is shut in on +the south by the attenuated rocky chain of islands forming the Dutch +East Indies, of which Sumatra and Java are the most important. + +The steamship lane lies between Sumatra and the Asian mainland, and +is known as the Straits of Malacca. It is a fearsome neck of water, +studded with islands and sandbanks, some visible above high-water, +others revealed only by the falling tide; while still more never see +daylight at all, yet owing to their shallow position are none the less +perilous. + +In order to foster the growth of the sea-traffic with China, these +unattractive waters demanded full illumination, while the rock-girt +shores of China and Japan were similarly in need of protective +outposts. Japan was particularly enterprising in this forward movement. +The country was emerging from the state of suspended civilization in +which it had reposed so calmly for centuries. The rising forces were +not slow to realize that unless they safeguarded steamship traffic +their ports would wait in vain for the ships from Europe. In fact, the +mercantile interests of the Western world bluntly stated that unless +this course were followed their ships would not come to trade. + +Japan at that time had not capable men at home for the purpose of +completing the first part of a comprehensive coast-lighting scheme, and +it was acknowledged that years must elapse before the country would be +able to walk alone in this field. Accordingly they sought Britain’s +assistance. The Stevenson family, as narrated already, elaborated a +comprehensive scheme, which was accepted. The structures were prepared +in Britain, sent out piecemeal to Japan together with a force of +competent men, and erected at the desired points. + +Upon this foundation the Japanese built up their excellent lighthouse +service. The Eastern pupil, in his own estimation, became as competent +as the Scottish teachers. At all events, Japan has since completed +all works of this description at home and unaided. China followed +suit, but in this instance it was due to British initiative purely and +simply. The British Inspector-General of the Imperial Maritime Customs +took up the question. He appointed an engineer-in-chief, to whom +the construction and repair of the lights were entrusted. The chief +engineer was provided with a coast inspector, upon whom devolved the +responsibility for the personnel and the maintenance of the stations, +he in turn being assisted in his exacting and, at that time, difficult +work by a corps of zealous officers. + +Although the countries concerned and the shipping companies of Europe +appreciated this forward policy, one class of individuals resented +this introduction of Western ideas into Oriental life. This was the +population who lived by wrecking and piracy. They recognized the fact +only too well, that, if brilliant beacons were to be permitted to be +erected freely throughout these troublous seas, their despicable but +remunerative calling would cease. Their solution of the problem assumed +a characteristic Chinese and Malay form; they endeavoured to wreak +their revenge upon the lights. Now and again there were sharp tussles +between the engineering staffs and these high-water brigands, but +firearms well handled by the white men invariably got the better of +the argument. Pirates caught in the attempt to tamper with the lights +received very short shrift. One engineer who had seen service in these +waters related to me that in the early days the amount of lead expended +in protecting a light from these marauders exceeded the quantity of +this metal used in the tower itself. + +The Malacca Straits, from their exceedingly dangerous nature, +constituted a happy hunting-ground for these gentlemen, and the +lighting of these waters was effected as soon as possible. Among the +innumerable menaces abounding, a shoal some sixteen miles west of the +coastline was particularly harassing to mariners. It became known as +One Fathom Bank, and the shallowest part was only about 18 feet below +the surface at high-water. When these waters were guarded first, a +lightship did duty; but the position is so open, and is so exposed to +the full fury of the monsoon, that she frequently dragged her anchors, +so that the warning became somewhat uncertain. + +Accordingly, it was decided to supersede the floating light by a +permanent structure, and a lighthouse on stilts, similar to those +familiar to American waters, was erected in 1874, and emitted a white +flash once a minute. Although this ironwork structure was pounded +mercilessly by the seas, it withstood all assaults completely, and was +only superseded eventually owing to the ever-increasing exigencies of +commerce, which demanded a more powerful and elevated light. + +The present tower was commenced in 1907. The engineers appreciated the +fact that they were being called upon to carry out an undertaking in an +especially trying position. The bank is well out to sea, and when the +monsoon is in full blast waves 8 feet in height thunder upon the shoal, +their ferocity varying according to the state of the tide, which rises +and falls a matter of 14 feet. The difficulties attending the building +of the Rothersand and Fourteen Foot Bank lighthouses under closely +similar conditions were not forgotten, and the prospect of building +a huge caisson on the mainland, and then towing it to the site to be +sunk, was by no means attractive, even if the fullest avail were taken +of the spells of calmest weather. + +Therefore an alternative method of construction, possessing the +qualities of being simpler, quicker, and less expensive, which was +advanced by a well-known firm of engineers in Singapore, Messrs. +Hargreaves, Riley and Co., upon the designs of Mr. O. P. Thomas, +received the closest consideration. This scheme proposed a lighthouse +constructed on piles, with the focal plane 92½ feet above water-level, +wrought in ferro-concrete. + +The project was somewhat novel and daring, because, although this +constructive principle had been adopted previously for stations +upon the mainland, it had never been utilized in connection with +exposed sea-lights. The system recommended was that known as the +Hennebique, which had been employed extensively for buildings, +bridges, sea-defences, and other works. The proposal was investigated +thoroughly by the Hon. A. Murray, M.Inst.C.E., the Colonial Engineer +and Surveyor-General for the Straits Settlements, and, as it met with +his full approval, the work was handed over to the Singapore engineers +to fulfil upon the lines advanced. + +The structure comprises the main building, including the +living-quarters, supported upon piles disposed in two rings, an inner +and an outer, about a central pile, the whole being well braced +together. The shape is octagonal in plan. From the roof of the +living-quarters, to which point the outer piles are carried vertically +from the sea-bed, these members rise with an inward rake, forming an +octagonal pyramid, with the lantern and its room below forming the apex. + +The underwater work was the most difficult, owing to the situation +and the climatic conditions. Seeing that the nearest land is sixteen +miles distant, it was impossible to carry the men to and from the +scene of their labours every day when the weather permitted. A base +was established on the coast for the preparation of materials and as +a point for shipping all requirements to the site, but the men were +accommodated with special facilities upon the spot. Here a temporary +staging was built on piles, on which platform a large hut was erected +to provide quarters for the men, as well as a workshop. + +The piles forming the main support to the building were made 50½ feet +long, and hollow. The concrete, composed of broken granite and Portland +cement, encased a steel skeleton, consisting of four longitudinal round +steel rods, 1¾ inches in diameter, laid at the corners, and laced +together with steel wire 3/16 inch thick. Eight of these piles were +made 18 inches square, while nine were 24 inches square, and each was +fitted with a pointed end to facilitate driving into the sea-bed. + +As these piles were prepared on shore, their transference to the site +was a pretty problem in itself. Ordinary methods of transport were +impracticable. The engineer overcame the difficulty in an ingenious +manner. He built up a raft of barrels, twenty-six of which were lashed +together in two rows, between which the pile was laid flat and evenly. +The raft was built upon peculiar lines, so as to facilitate the +unshipping of the pile when it reached its destination. It was divided +into four sections, each of which could be detached without disturbing +the other three parts. The raft and its pile were towed out to sea by +a steamer, and when the work was gained the raft was cast off, to be +floated under the staging and to the exact point where it was to be +set up. A chain sling was lowered from the platform and attached to +the head of the pile, and the lashings to the first section of the +raft were released, thus permitting the strapped barrels concerned to +float away and to be recovered. The pile was then slowly and carefully +hoisted at the head, the second part of the raft being released when +the pile had gained a certain height. This procedure was repeated +until finally, when the last part of the raft was freed, the pile +hung free, as vertically true as a plumb-line, with the pointed foot +resting on the sand. In order to send it truly into the sea-bed, heavy +timber guides were set up, and as the pile descended it was frequently +tested with the plummet, to see that it was sinking in an absolutely +perpendicular manner. + +[Illustration: COMPLETING THE ONE FATHOM BANK LIGHTHOUSE IN THE MALACCA +STRAITS. + +The keepers live on the lower floors. The upper floor beneath the +lantern is the service room.] + +The piles were sunk into the soft sea-bed by means of water-jets, +which, playing about the foot of the pile, burrowed a hole into which +it could move downwards. A depth of 15 feet had been considered +necessary to secure the desired rigidity, and as a rule the pile could +be driven to this depth in about four hours. When the pile-driving +commenced, however, it was found that the sandbank had undergone a +marked change since the surveys were made. Erosion had been very active +owing to the currents having been checked by the obstructions which +the legs of the staging offered. Under these circumstances a novel +experiment was made upon the site. One of the piles was lengthened +by 14½ feet, to be driven to its limits, just to ascertain how far +it would go into the sand. This in itself was a somewhat daring +undertaking, seeing that the tiny colony on the staging did not possess +the facilities which were available on shore for the work. However, +it was accomplished satisfactorily, and when the pile was sunk it +was found to descend another 13½ feet, where it touched hard rock. +This discovery brought about a modification in the plans. As a solid +foundation could be gained at a depth of 28½ feet, and as the piles +could be lengthened successfully upon the site, it was decided to +extend all the piles to a complete length of 64½ feet, and to drive +them down to the hard bottom. When the piles were all lowered, they +were subjected to four blows from a “monkey” weighing 2½ tons, dropped +from a height of 4 feet. But these four final blows only drove the +piles from ¼ to 7/8 inch farther into the sea-bed, whereas, according +to the specification, a margin of 1 inch was allowed for this test. + +The diameter of the tower at the base is 40 feet, and heavy bracing +is introduced at a point 4 feet below high-water to hold the fabric +together, and to supply the requisite strength and rigidity. At a +height of 21 feet above this main bracing is the floor of the +superstructure, comprising an octagonal two-floor building, surrounded +by an overhanging gallery, built on the cantilever principle, 5 feet in +width, which forms the landing platform. The two floors have a total +height of 24 feet, and constitute the keepers’ home. The roof is flat, +in order to facilitate the collection and conduct of rain-water into +two ferro-concrete cisterns, each holding 1,000 gallons. The lower +floor is devoted to housing stores, oil, etc., while the upper story +forms the living-quarters. The roof is caused to overhang a distance of +4 feet on all sides, thereby providing a flat surface 44 feet across. +From this point the eight main columns of the building slope inwards, +until, at a height of 30 feet, they have a diameter of 18½ feet, where +the lantern is introduced. The lower part of the latter constitutes the +service-room, and leads directly to the lantern above. Access to the +different levels is afforded by means of a teak-wood staircase, while +that leading from the entrance floor to the water for landing purposes +is hinged, so that it may be accommodated to the condition of the tide. + +The lantern, which weighs 17½ tons, is of the modern type, and is +more powerful than that of the 1874 light, which it displaced. The +white light is thrown in groups of flashes every fifteen seconds, +and the warning is visible from the deck of a vessel some fifteen +miles away. The central pier, which carries a great proportion of the +total weight of the tower, and which extends continuously from the +bed-rock foundation to the lantern-room, is solid to the roof of the +living-quarters. Above this point it is hollow, having a bore of 12 +inches, and in this space the weight actuating the revolving mechanism +of the light moves up and down. + +[Illustration: THE ONE FATHOM BANK LIGHTHOUSE, MALACCA STRAITS, IN +COURSE OF ERECTION. + +It is built throughout of ferro-concrete, and is supported on piles +driven into the sand. At the left are the quarters provided for the +lighthouse builders who lived on the spot.] + +Although the idea was novel at the time, the complete success of +the work justified the recommendations of the designers as to the +suitability of this form of construction for open-sea lighthouses. In +this instance the enterprise not only was completed for a less sum +than would have been required for a corresponding lighthouse erected +in masonry upon orthodox lines, but the structure is lighter, was +more rapidly built, and is thoroughly hygienic. The complete weight of +the whole tower is less than 1,000 tons; and from the setting of the +first pile to the lighting of the lamps only fourteen months elapsed, +notwithstanding the fact that work was interrupted and hindered +frequently by inclement weather. Any doubts that were entertained +concerning the ability of the structure to resist the attacks of the +wind and seas encountered in these latitudes was dispelled during +erection, because the monsoons which broke during the period of +erection were abnormally heavy, and submitted the fabric to exceptional +strains and stresses, which it withstood with complete success. + +Another fine light which has been provided for the benefit of the +navigator in these Eastern seas is that on Gap Rock. This is a rugged, +lofty eminence, rising from the sea, thirty-two miles south of +Hong-Kong. Being exposed on all sides, it is difficult to approach, +while at the same time it lies in the path of vessels. A few years ago +the Hong-Kong Government decided to conquer this islet, and to deprive +it of its perils to shipping. With great effort a landing was effected, +and one of the pinnacles was decapitated and levelled off, to form a +spacious platform for landing. The light itself rises from the highest +point of the rock, and its rays are visible through a circle of twenty +miles radius. The Gap Rock light is also a signal-station, being in +telegraphic communication with Hong-Kong. + +Although the days of human hostility to the lighthouse in Eastern +waters have passed, the engineer is confronted by an enemy which is in +every way as destructive. This is the white ant. The ravages of this +insect are so relentless and complete where wood is concerned that +timber towers are quite impracticable. Moreover, this material has to +be used only sparingly for fittings, even in masonry and iron buildings. + +A curious experience with this insidious and implacable foe was related +to me by a lighthouse engineer. He was engaged in the erection of a +new beacon at a remote point on the coast. The lenses and lantern +apparatus, as usual, had been ordered in England, and were despatched +to the East carefully packed in substantial tin-lined cases. In order +to secure the utmost protection during transit, each metallic and +lenticular part was wrapped in tow. Care also was bestowed upon the +sealing of the tin case, since the propensity of the ant to discover +the smallest pinhole so as to reach the interior was emphasized upon +the packers. Accordingly the seams were doubly soldered. + +In due course the cases with their precious contents reached the site +of erection, but unfortunately the season was so far advanced that the +engineer concluded he could not complete the erection of the lantern +before the monsoon broke. As the contents of the cases were preserved +by the tin armour from climatic attacks, he stored the cases securely, +and with his workmen left the place until favourable weather returned. + +Some weeks later the chief and his toilers reappeared upon the scene. +All preparations for setting the optical apparatus were completed. +Imagine the dismay of the engineer when, on opening the case containing +the most important parts of the lantern, he found that it had been +raided by white ants. They had driven their tracks spirally through +the tow, which evidently they had enjoyed, and although this was of +little consequence, the formic acid had played sad havoc with the +bright surfaces of the spindles. In lighthouse engineering the surfaces +of these parts must be as bright and as clean as a mirror to insure +smooth, steady working. But now these spindles were as pitted and +marked as a victim to smallpox. It was a maddening contretemps, since +the only way to restore the vital bright surfaces was to turn them +in the lathe. Such a tool was not available within a hundred or more +miles. Erection had to be delayed, however, until this treatment was +effected. + +Seeing that the tin case was soldered up with such infinite care, the +question arises. How did the ants get into it? To the engineer it +seemed an inscrutable puzzle, but he subjected the case to a minute +examination. Finally he solved the problem. At one corner he found +that a nail, while being driven during the process of nailing up the +heavy outer wooden case at the English factory, had turned slightly, so +that its point had punctured the inner metal case. The ants, too, had +discovered this minute breach, and through it had swarmed to the attack +upon the interior. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +UNATTENDED LIGHTHOUSES + + +During the past fifty years engineering science as applied to +lighthouses has made remarkable advances. This has been due largely +to the indefatigable perseverance and ceaseless labour of the chemist +in regard to illumination. This wonder-worker has given us acetylene, +has evolved means whereby oil-gas may be compressed to a pressure +of several atmospheres with safety, and has discovered other gases +obtainable by inexpensive and simple means. The engineer has not +hesitated to profit from these developments, and has devised highly +ingenious apparatuses whereby these illuminating mediums may be stored +and used, so as to dispense with the human element almost entirely; in +fact, in these instances the latter factor has been reduced to such +a degree that it is only called upon to perform certain perfunctory +operations, such as the recharging of the storage vessels at long +intervals--three, six, or twelve months, according to circumstances. + +This combination has provided the lighthouse engineer with a new, +powerful, and efficient means of overcoming abnormal difficulties. +Many a rock, reef, or stretch of uninhabited coastline has demanded +indication, but has defied such protection from motives of cost, +inaccessibility, or searching problems concerning the accommodation and +relief of the keepers. As I have shown in the course of this volume, +the erection of a first-class lighthouse is a costly undertaking, +and the shipping interests, which in the case of Great Britain and +a few other countries are called upon to pay the bill, naturally +demur, unless the rock or other obstacle is situate in the centre +of the marine thoroughfare, or the approach to a pitiless coast is +extremely hazardous, when the erection of the tower becomes absolutely +imperative. If one were to add up the costs of all the great lights +scattered throughout the seven seas, it would be found that several +millions sterling had been sunk in this humane effort, and yet, +relatively speaking, but a small area of danger in the aggregate is +safeguarded. + +[Illustration: THE PLATTE FOUGÈRE LIGHTHOUSE UNDER CONSTRUCTION. + +This automatic light marks a dangerous reef, off the Guernsey coast, +which is familiar to readers of Victor Hugo’s “Toilers of the Sea.”] + +Then the human factor demands consideration. A colony of four or six +men scarcely could be found willing to suffer isolation from the world +at large and to be deprived of intercourse with their fellow-beings in +the interests of shipping, say, through the Straits of Magellan, around +Cape Horn, among the icy fastnesses of the Northern Labrador coast, or +in Hudson Bay. Life in the lighthouses which guard the busy steamship +lanes is monotonous and nerve-shattering enough, but to maroon men +in such remote places as those mentioned above would be to promote a +wholesale rush of inmates for the lunatic asylums. + +This is where the chemist and the engineer in collaboration have +triumphed. By their joint efforts it is now possible to supply the +most inhospitable shore with a belt of lights equal in every respect +to those mounting sentinel over the more densely populated reaches of +coast in the civilized parts of the globe. The unattended lighthouse +is a modern development born of necessity, which has proved highly +serviceable, effective, and reliable. The passenger, as he lolls +against the taffrail of the steamer ploughing her way carefully through +the lane 375 miles long separating the mainland of South America from +Tierra del Fuego, and watches the faithful star twinkling upon the top +of a frowning cliff and urging the mariner to keep clear, may cherish +a feeling of pity for the man who has to keep that beam shining. But +his commiseration is misplaced. No human hands touch that beacon, +perhaps, for six months or more at a time. It is a triumph of automatic +operation. The same applies to the wicked shores of New Zealand, the +uninviting northern stretches of the Gulf of Bothnia, the iron-bound +coasts of Norway and Sweden, and many another unattractive mainland and +island. + +All the great maritime nations possess several of these silent, +faithful lights, which, although upon their introduction they were +regarded with a certain amount of suspicion, owing to the urgent +necessity of a light never failing in its duty for the guidance of the +seafarer, yet have been proved by the convincing lesson of experience +to be as reliable in every respect as the light which is tended by +human hands. + +So far as Great Britain is concerned, the unattended light has been +brought to a high stage of efficiency and utility by the efforts of +Messrs. David and Charles Stevenson, while in other parts of the world +the apparatus and methods perfected by Mr. Gustaf Dalén of Stockholm +are used extensively. + +The most interesting example of the Stevenson unattended lighthouse is +provided in the English Channel, indicating the entrance to the strait +which leads to the Guernsey capital of St. Peter Port. This was one of +the first of its character to be erected, but the type is now being +adopted widely owing to the success of this initial undertaking. The +Channel Islands have achieved an unsavoury reputation in marine annals, +as they form a graveyard of the Channel; they have claimed their +victims, during recent years at any rate, mostly from the ranks of the +heavy cross-Channel traffic. + +[Illustration: THE PLATTE FOUGÈRE LIGHTHOUSE. + +This beacon, designed by Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson, probably is the +finest unattended lighthouse in existence. On the top of the tower is +the automatically controlled acetylene light.] + +The Russell Channel, leading to St. Peter Port from the north, is +exceedingly dangerous, the sea being littered with granite rocks both +submerged and exposed, of which the Grande Braye, Barsier, and Platte +Fougère, form the outer rampart. Readers of Victor Hugo may gather some +realistic idea of the perilous nature of these waters by perusing “The +Toilers of the Sea,” in which these rocks figure very prominently, +particularly the Platte Fougère. The menace of this corner of the +channel is accentuated by the velocity of the tidal currents which +swing and swirl round the reefs, together with the extreme range of +the tides, which averages about 30 feet. Formerly, in thick weather, +vessels found it almost impossible to pick up the Russell, and often +a captain, by the rip and crash of metal being torn, to his dismay +learned that he had swung too far to the westward. + +[Illustration: SETTING THE COMPRESSED-AIR RESERVOIR AT FORT DOYLE. + +The Platte Fougère automatic light is supplemented by a land station on +the island of Guernsey a mile away.] + +The companies engaged in this traffic repeatedly petitioned the +authorities to mark the entrance to the strait by some adequate means. +A light was not required so keenly as a sound-signal, because in clear +weather navigation was tolerably safe. The proposal was discussed +time after time, but no solution appeared to be forthcoming. To erect +a lighthouse on the outer fringe of the barrier would have entailed +prodigious expenditure, which the island authorities could ill afford, +even if such a scheme were practicable. + +The question was taken up boldly by General Campbell during his +occupation of the post of Governor-General of the Island of +Guernsey, and he pressed forward the scheme vigorously in a resolute +determination to bring about a diminution in the number of maritime +disasters at this point. He approached Messrs. David and Charles +Stevenson, who had considerable experience of similar conditions +around the Scottish coasts, and they, after an elaborate survey of the +site, recommended the erection of a light and fog-signal station upon +the Platte Fougère, which should be controlled from the land a mile +distant. They agreed that the erection of a tower similar to those +generally planted on sea-rocks would be a formidable undertaking and +enormously expensive, owing to the conditions prevailing, but the +station they suggested was quite practicable, and would serve the +purposes equally well. + +Instead of a massive, gracefully-curving tower, measuring some 40 +feet in diameter at the base, these engineers suggested a building of +irregular octagonal shape, measuring 14½ and 17 feet across the faces, +80 feet in height, and carried out in ferro-concrete. They advocated +its erection upon the Platte Fougère, because there the fog-signal +would be brought into the most serviceable position for shipping. A +narrow or thin building was advised, to offer the minimum of surface +to the waves, which break very heavily on these ridges. The wisdom of +this design has been revealed very convincingly since the tower has +been in service. The seas fall on either side, divide and rush round +the building, so that it does not experience the full brunt of their +heavy, smashing blows. As the engineers pointed out, “It is better to +avoid heavy sea pressures, where feasible, in preference to courting +them.” + +Still, the Platte Fougère was not an ideal rock from the engineers’ +point of view, although it is a solid knot of granite. Its head is +visible only at low-water spring-tides, while it is difficult to +approach, even in the smoothest weather, owing to the tides and +currents. Much of the foundation work had to be carried out under +water. The season was unavoidably limited, as the days when both the +wind and the sea are calm in this part of the channel are very few and +far between. + +The tower is solid for a height of 46 feet above the rock, and the base +is formed of Portland cement placed in iron moulds, with iron bars +driven into the solid rock to anchor the concrete firmly. On the side +to which the building is exposed to the heaviest seas, massive beams +of rolled steel are driven into the rock, so as to impart additional +strength to the part of the tower where the greatest strains are likely +to be set up. + +On the entrance level is a compartment containing an electric motor and +air-compressor, while on the floor immediately above is a duplicate +installation. The siren projects through the top of the tower, the +trumpet being so turned as to throw the sounds in a horizontal +direction over the water. On the top of the tower is a small automatic +acetylene gas plant and light, such as the engineers have employed +so successfully in their unattended Scottish light-stations, two +air-receivers, and a water-tank. A new type of burner is used, and a +clockwork mechanism is incorporated to extinguish the light at dawn and +to ignite it at dusk, with a special arrangement to allow for the short +summer nights and the long periods of darkness during the winter. + +[Illustration: THE FORT DOYLE SIREN. + +This installation on the island is maintained so as to take the place +of the automatic lighthouse a mile out to sea, in the remote event of +the latter breaking down.] + +As mentioned above, the station is controlled electrically from a point +on shore. In deciding the latter, it was necessary to discover the most +favourable landing-place for the submarine cable in relation to its +route, and Doyle Fort was selected as meeting all requirements in this +direction. Here a two-floor dwelling has been erected for the keepers, +together with an adjoining engine-house, which measures 32 feet in +length by 20 feet wide. The tower being a mile distant, the designers +had to meet the possibility of the machinery therein breaking down. +Accordingly, at the shore station there is an auxiliary fog-siren and +air-compressing plant, which is brought into use when the sea apparatus +is deranged. + +[Illustration: + + _By courtesy of Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson._ + +AN UNATTENDED BEACON LIGHT PLACED UPON A WILD PART OF THE SCOTTISH +COAST. + +These lights will run for several months without any human attention, +and, by means of ingenious mechanism, light and extinguish themselves +automatically.] + +The machinery includes two oil-engines which drive three-phase +alternators, and an air-compressor for working the land siren when +required. One of the greatest difficulties arose in connection with the +submarine cable which connects the land-station with the sea-tower. +Owing to the broken, rocky nature of the sea-bed, the viciousness of +the currents, and the heavy seas, the cable had to be of exceptional +strength; indeed, it had to be made specially for the purpose. It is +a double-sheathed, steel-armoured cable of the heaviest “rock” type, +being 11 inches in circumference, and weighing 45 tons per nautical +mile. As the current used is three-phase, there are three conductors, +which weigh 1,100 pounds per mile, protected by a thick layer of +gutta-percha averaging 450 pounds per mile. In the centre of the core +are two other wires for switching and telephone purposes respectively. +The laying of the cable was a peculiar and exacting task in itself; +6,504 feet had to be paid out. But by waiting for a very calm day +and slack water this task was achieved without mishap. In the tower +there is a simple switch operated by an electro-magnet, whereby the +motor-driven air-compressors are thrown in and out of action. The +two compressors are used alternately, so as to keep them in thorough +working order; and as they have to be left sometimes for months without +being examined, special attention has been devoted to their lubrication. + +A visit to this lighthouse is a somewhat curious experience. Climbing +the ladder and entering the building, one finds it apparently +abandoned. Not a sound beyond the murmuring of the waves playing about +the rocks below disturbs a silence which is uncannily tense. Suddenly +there is an almost imperceptible click. The keeper at the light-station +has moved his switch, and simultaneously that in the tower has +closed. The electric motors instantly commence to revolve, with a low +grunt at first, but rising quickly to a loud humming as they settle +down to their stride, driving the air-compressors. Then comes the +ear-splitting, deep-toned roar from the siren overhead, attended by +the whirr of machinery in motion. The humming of the motors and the +compressors dies down, and in a few seconds absolute stillness prevails +once more. The sensation is decidedly eerie. It seems impossible that a +silence so intense as to be felt should be interrupted by a click--the +result of a slight movement by an unseen hand a mile away--which gives +forth such a nerve-shattering din as to convey the idea that Bedlam +had been let loose. At the land-station the experience is similarly +weird. The keeper moves his switch which brings the tower machinery +into action. Presently there is the sharp tinkle of an electric bell. +This notifies the keeper that the blast on the tower has been given, +but conclusive evidence of this fact does not arrive until five seconds +later, when the baying of the siren comes rolling over the water. + +A complete check is kept upon the isolated station out at sea. If the +electric bell does not ring out at the appointed period, to notify +the keeper that the siren has emitted its warning note, he knows that +something is amiss. The land-station is brought into service without +delay, the intimation to the mariner to stand clear being thrown from +Doyle Fort once every ninety seconds. The men on shore take it in turns +to mount watch for fog both day and night, and their vigil is checked. +There is an electric alarm, which maintains silence only so long as the +man on duty fulfils his appointed task and records this fact upon his +mechanical register at scheduled intervals. Should he fail to perform +this function, there is a frenzied clanging by the alarm-bell, which +summons the second keeper to duty. + +[Illustration: THE GASFETEN LIGHT: A LONELY BEACON IN SWEDISH WATERS. + +This was the first tower to be fitted with the Dalén “sun-valve” in +conjunction with the Dalén flasher. Several automatic lights of this +type are used to show the way through the Panama Canal.] + +Apparently, the weakest point in the installation is the submarine +cable, but the engineers entertain no apprehensions on this score. It +is too stoutly made and too heavily armoured to rupture very readily. +Experience has proved its efficiency and reliability, while a long +life is anticipated for it. The Platte Fougère unattended lighthouse +has opened up new possibilities for protecting wild coasts. It has +proved conclusively that there is no difficulty in maintaining such +a station and controlling it from a distance so long as automatic +apparatus which has proved its worth is employed. This practical +application should serve to solve many peculiar problems. No longer can +the bogie of expense be put forward as an argument against safeguarding +a notoriously evil length of shoreline or isolated rock, even if the +latter is exposed to the heaviest seas known. The Guernsey installation +was completed for £8,500, or $42,500, and is as serviceable as the +ordinary type of tower, which in this instance would have cost at least +£60,000, or $300,000, to build and equip. From the maintenance point +of view it is equally convincing and economical, inasmuch as only two +keepers are required in the place of the four who otherwise would have +been necessary. + +[Illustration: THE DALÉN “SUN-VALVE,” THE MOST WONDERFUL INVENTION OF +MODERN LIGHTHOUSE ENGINEERING. + +Depending upon the action of daylight alone, it automatically ignites +and extinguishes the light at dusk and dawn respectively.] + +The system which has been devised by Mr. Gustaf Dalén of Stockholm, +and which is exploited by the Gas Accumulator Company of the Swedish +capital, operates with dissolved acetylene. The first light in +Scandinavian waters to be brought into action upon the “Aga” principle, +as it is called, was installed in the Gasfeten tower, an exceedingly +isolated beacon which offered every means of testing it thoroughly. +The idea follows the broad lines of that adopted in connection +with lightships, and, the Gasfeten experiments proving completely +successful, it has been adopted extensively since, not only by the +Swedish authorities for the lighting of lonely waters in the Baltic +Sea and Gulf of Bothnia, but by various other Powers. The Straits of +Magellan are protected in this way, and when one recalls the sparse +population which dwells upon the banks of this short-cut between the +Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and bears in mind the fact that the lights +have to be left to their own automatic action for some months on end, +then one may realize the perfection and reliability of the invention. +The failure of a light in such treacherous waters would be notified +speedily to the authorities responsible for the illumination of this +sea-lane, but no such complaints appear to have been received from +passing vessels. These lonely lights for the most part are of a very +simple character, a result due to local conditions. As a rule they are +planted on lofty eminences--not at too high an elevation, as thereby +they might be rendered useless by headland fogs--at a height varying +between 150 and 250 feet. The base of the tower forms a space for the +accommodation of the gas-accumulators, wherein the illuminating medium +is stored under pressure, surmounted by the lantern which carries the +requisite optical apparatus, and the flasher whereby the characteristic +visual warning is given. + +Although adoption of the flasher enabled the consumption of gas to +be reduced very appreciably, there was one noticeable drawback: the +light had to burn both night and day, unless clockwork mechanism were +introduced to extinguish the light at sunrise and to ignite it at +twilight. Some authorities, however, do not place trust in clockwork +mechanism. Certainly it is liable to fail at a critical moment, and in +the case of an isolated light, several hundred miles from the nearest +base, this would be a serious calamity, intimation of the fact not +being available until several weeks after the disability had been +observed. + +In order to overcome the fallibility of clockwork, and to insure a +still further marked decrease in the consumption of gas, Mr. Gustaf +Dalén devoted his energies to the perfection of a device which +should achieve the self-same end, but be operated by Nature herself. +His efforts were crowned with complete success by the invention of +the “light-valve,” but which has become more widely known as the +“sun-valve.” + +[Illustration: THE GAS ACCUMULATORS EMPLOYED IN THE DALÉN AUTOMATIC +SYSTEM. + +The size of the storage cylinder varies according to the work, +character, and position of the beacon.] + +This device is based upon a well-known principle. If two objects, +fashioned from the same metal, and identical in every respect except +that one is made light-absorbing and the other light-reflecting, are +exposed to daylight, while the former will expand, the latter will +remain unaffected. This result is due to the fact that the one which +absorbs light transforms it into energy. The acting part of the +“sun-valve” therefore is a light-absorber. It consists of a central +rod, the surface of which is coated with lampblack, so that its +light-absorbing qualities are enhanced as much as possible. The lower +part of this rod is connected to a small lever, which opens and shuts +an orifice through which the gas passes to the flasher in the lantern +above. Around this central black copper rod are three other copper +rods, disposed equidistantly. They resemble the former in every respect +except that they have no light-absorbing qualities, but they are given +polished gold surfaces, so that their light-reflecting properties are +raised to the maximum. + +This sun-valve is exposed. At the break of dawn, under the gathering +intensity of daylight, the central black rod absorbs the luminosity, +the amount of which is increased by the light thrown from the +gold-burnished outer rods, and, converting it into energy, expands +longitudinally. In so doing it forces the lever at the base downwards, +closing the opening through which the gas flows to the flasher. In a +short while, when the day has broken fairly and there is no further +need for the beacon’s services, the gas-feed is cut off entirely, only +the pilot burner remaining alight, the gas-supply to this not being +affected by the sun-valve. In order to bring the greatest possible +pressure upon the lever, the blackened rod is so arranged that it can +expand only in one direction--namely, downwards. + +Upon the approach of evening, owing to the daylight becoming weaker, +the blackened rod contracts, and, the pressure upon the lever being +released, the gas commences to flow once more to the burner. It is a +small stream at first, but as the darkness gathers, and the shrinking +continues, the valve opens wider and wider, until at last, when night +has settled down and the copper central rod has fully contracted, the +gas-valve is opened to its fullest extent, permitting the greatest +pressure of gas to flow to the burner, so that the beacon throws its +most brilliant light. This automatic action continues infallibly every +dawn and dusk, and is the simplest and at the same time most reliable +means of economizing gas during the day that has yet been devised. + +There is another feature of this system which must not be overlooked. +Suppose, for some reason or other, that the sea becomes shrouded in +suffused light, such as might arise from the obscuring of the sun by +an overhanging bank of fog or smoke, the beacon comes automatically +into service, as the cutting off of the daylight must bring about a +contraction of the blackened copper rod controlling the valve. + +The central rod can be adjusted to any degree of sensitiveness, by +means of a screw, while protection of the vital parts is insured by +enclosure within a heavy glass cylinder. The first apparatus of this +character was tested by the Swedish authorities in 1907, and proved +so successful that it is now in service at all the exposed unattended +lighthouses in Swedish and Finnish waters; while it has been adopted, +also, very extensively by the United States, more particularly for the +lighting of the lonely stretches of the Alaskan coastline and of the +Panama Canal. + +Of course, the saving of gas which is rendered possible by the use of +the sun-valve varies according to the season of the year. During the +winter, when the nights are long, the saving may not be very marked, +but in the summer, when darkness does not last more than four or five +hours, the economy is very noticeable. According to the experience of +the Swedish authorities, the average saving of gas during the year +varies from 35 to 40 per cent., as compared with similar lights not +fitted with this device. + +But there is another factor which is influenced to a very appreciable +degree by the utilization of the sun-valve. By cutting off the light +when it is not required, the capacity of--_i.e._, the duration of +service upon--one charge is lengthened, and this in the case of an +isolated light is a very important consideration. In fact, with the +“Aga” system wherein the sun-valve is combined with the flasher, it is +possible for the light to work a round twelve months without the least +control or necessity for intermediate inspection, and at as low an +annual charge as £2 15s., or about $14. + +[Illustration: THE LAGERHOLMEN LIGHTHOUSE. + +It marks a lonely dangerous rock in the Baltic Sea, and operates +upon the Aga unattended automatic system, with Dalén flasher and +“sun-valve.”] + +One of the latest unattended installations which have been carried out +upon these lines is the Lagerholmen lighthouse, marking a dangerous +rock in the Baltic Sea. It is a cylindrical tower, with the focal +plane 56 feet 4 inches above sea-level, and the flashing light, with +sun-valve control, has a range of eighteen miles. The geographical +range, however, is only thirteen miles, owing to the comparatively low +height of the tower. + +An interesting and ingenious automatic unattended light has also been +established in an isolated part of the Bristol Channel. It was designed +by Sir Thomas Matthews, the engineer to the Brethren of Trinity House. +This is purely and simply a clockwork-controlled apparatus in which +extreme care has been taken to eliminate the disadvantages incidental +to such mechanism. This type of light was designed to fulfil three +conditions--to give a flashing light; to light up and go out at +the proper times; and to require attention only at long intervals. +Acetylene is the illuminant used, the gas being stored in a reservoir +under high pressure. The gas as it emerges from the supply cylinder is +expanded, so that the pressure at the burner does not exceed 2 pounds +per square inch. + +The outstanding feature of this apparatus is that the clockwork +control cutting off and turning on the gas does not require to be +wound by hand, but is actuated by the mechanism which revolves the +lenses, through a simple set of gearing. The gas as it issues from the +reservoir passes into one of two cylinders. Each of these is provided +with an inlet and an exhaust valve, while the upper end is closed +with a lid of leather, covering the top like the vellum of a drum. +To each leather cover is attached a circular piece of metal, smaller +than the leather diaphragm, and from this in turn extends a vertical +rod, the upper end of which is connected to one end of a centrally +pivoted rocking arm. When the gas enters one cylinder, naturally in +expanding it forces the leather lid upwards, and with it the vertical +rod. This elevates the corresponding end of the rocking arm, and +simultaneously drives down the rod attached to the opposite end +of the beam, which in turn drives down the leather lid of the second +cylinder, and forces out any gas that may be therein. The apparatus +consequently is something like a double pump, owing to the rocking arm +having a seesaw motion. This reciprocating action serves to wind up +the clock, and also to revolve the lenses through spurs and pinions. +The mechanism, however, is controlled completely by the clock whereby +the light is started, inasmuch as without this the apparatus cannot +be set in motion. There are two dials, one of which is divided into +twenty-four divisions, corresponding to the hours of the day, and the +other into twelve divisions, representing the twelve months of the +year. The clocks work together, and the time of lighting up is advanced +or retarded, according to the time of the year, through the clock train +wheels. + +The apparatus is very compact, highly ingenious, and has proved +efficient in service. Although this is the first application of the +idea for rotating the lenses by the gas which feeds the burners, +so far as England is concerned, it has been employed under similar +circumstances in Germany with conspicuous success, in combination +with the Pintsch oil-gas apparatuses, but it lacks the simplicity and +reliability of the sun-valve. + +[Illustration: AN UNATTENDED BEACON LIGHTING THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. + +This warning, fitted with Dalén flasher and sun-valve, is visited once +in six months.] + +[Illustration: AN AUTOMATIC LIGHT-BOAT. + +This novel warning was constructed for installation at the mouth of a +Swedish river owing to the extreme velocity of the current. Such a boat +may be left unvisited for a year if desired.] + +A different system, which has been adopted widely throughout the +East and in Australian waters, is the Wigham petroleum beacon. This +system possesses many notable features, the most important being +that well-refined petroleum oil is employed. In many parts of the +world carbide of calcium is not readily obtainable, and, moreover, is +somewhat expensive, whereas, on the other hand, oil is comparatively +cheap and available in unlimited quantities. The principle of working +is somewhat novel. The wick is not burned in the manner generally +followed in regard to lamps--viz., at the end, which within a short +time becomes carbonized and brings a marked diminution of the +illuminating power--but it is moved so that the same part is not +exposed continuously to the action of the heat arising from combustion. +It is caused to travel horizontally over a small roller, in a +specially-constructed burner, combustion taking place, therefore, on +its flat side. It is moved slowly and continuously over this roller, +so that it cannot burn through, and in this manner the flame, being +constantly emitted from a fresh surface, is of uniform intensity. + +[Illustration: THE WIGHAM THIRTY-ONE DAY UNATTENDED PETROLEUM LIGHT. + +The type at left shows the lamp carried upon a cast-iron pillar; while +on the right it is mounted upon a lattice tower.] + +The lamp comprises three main parts. There is the lantern, with the +lens and the projecting panes of plate-glass, in the focus of which +the burner is fixed. Then there is the burning-oil reservoir, which +feeds the wick as it moves towards the burner. This reservoir is +circular in shape, somewhat shallow, and serves as a deck on which +the lantern is built up. The third part is the float cylinder, made +of copper, which is attached to the underside of the oil reservoir. +This cylinder is filled with oil, which is kept quite distinct from +the burning oil, and thereon floats a weighted copper drum, to which +one end of the wick is secured by means of a hook. At the lower end of +this cylinder is a micrometer valve, which when opened permits the oil +to drip away at a certain speed. This causes the float to fall with +the oil in the cylinder, and to drag the wick over the burner roller +and down the float cylinder after it, so that a fresh surface of the +wick is presented continuously for combustion. The lamps themselves may +be divided into two broad classes--the single-wick and the three-wick +respectively. The latter obviously emits the more brilliant light, and +is the type which is coming into more extensive use at the present +time. In the latest type a duplex burner is employed, and this has +been found to give a very powerful light with a comparatively low oil +consumption. + +The light is generally carried at the top of a lattice-work steel +tower. A support of this character can be taken to pieces, packed +within small compass, and transported without difficulty, while +erection is simplified and facilitated. Seeing that a large number +of these beacons have been erected on headlands along the wildest +stretches of the African continent and the loneliest coasts of +Australia, where the methods of transport are restricted to coolies +or mules, this method of packing is distinctly advantageous. The lamp +is secured to the top of the tower, with the float cylinder of the lamp +depending from the centre. In this arrangement, as a rule, a small tank +is provided into which a drain-pipe empties the oil dropping from the +drip-valve. In this way the oil may be drawn off, filtered, and used +again in the float cylinder. In some instances the lamp is mounted upon +a cast-iron column, in which case the float cylinder and the oil-drip +tank are placed within the tube, access thereto being obtained through +a door. + +The length of service on one charge varies according to the situation +of the light. If in a very exposed and inaccessible place, it may be +required to burn for two or three months without attention. Taken +on the average, however, a monthly charge has been found to offer +the greatest advantages. But in some places the longer interval is +unavoidable. For instance, the Wigham light which is mounted upon the +extremity of the Manora breakwater at Karachi cannot be approached for +three months at a time during the monsoon. Under these circumstances a +one-hundred-day service is imperative. + +The lenses are of the dioptric order, consisting of six elements built +up into a strong gun-metal framework. The internal diameter naturally +varies with the size and number of the wicks, and ranges from 10 inches +for a 1-1/8 inch single wick, to 15 inches in the case of a 1-5/8 inch +three-wick lamp. In the larger sizes a curved plate-glass pane is +fitted outside the lens as a protection from the action of the weather. +These storm-panes are set in copper doors, so that the glasses may be +easily cleaned and polished when the lamp is being retrimmed. + +[Illustration: WILLSON GAS AND WHISTLING FLOATING LIGHT OFF EGG ISLAND, +NOVA SCOTIA.] + +[Illustration: THE WILLSON “OUTER AUTOMATIC,” HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA.] + +The maintenance charges are guided by the local market values +of materials and labour, the item of repairs and renewals being +practically negligible. So far as oil consumption per month is +concerned, this fluctuates according to the type of lamp used, +ranging from 1-1/5 pints per twenty-four hours, or 4·8 gallons per +month, in the case of a 1-1/8-inch single-wick burner, to 2¼ pints +per twenty-four hours, or 8¾ gallons of oil per month, in the case +of the latest 1-5/8-inch duplex-wick burner. American petroleum-oil, +of a specific gravity of about 0·795, gives the best results and +the brightest and clearest flame. Russian and other heavier oils +generally used in lighthouses are unsuitable. In view of the world-wide +operations of the Standard Oil Company, however, no difficulty is +experienced in procuring adequate supplies of this oil anywhere between +the two Poles. + +The oil used in the float cylinder, as mentioned previously, is quite +distinct from the burning oil, and is used only to support the float to +which the wick is attached. As the oil escapes through the drip-valve, +it may be allowed to run to waste, or, what is far preferable, it may +be caught, filtered, and used again for this purpose, to bring about a +reduction in the cost of upkeep. The float cylinder of a thirty-one-day +light, irrespective of the number of wicks, requires the same quantity +of oil for the float cylinder--9½ gallons. + +The advantages of the unattended, automatic light have been appreciated +by the various maritime Powers, and their application is being +developed rapidly. They are inexpensive in first cost, and their +maintenance charges are very low. In Sweden a second-order light, +consuming 6 cubic feet of acetylene gas per hour, throwing a fixed +white light of 4,000 candle-power, and visible for seventeen miles in +clear weather, costs about £15, or $75, per annum; while the smaller +lights, with a 300-millimetre lens and a 12-inch burner emitting 360 +candle-power, may be run for £2, or $10, per annum, the low cost in +this instance being attributable to use of the Dalén flasher and +sun-valve. + +The cost of the acetylene gas averages ¾d., or 1½ cents, per cubic +foot, a result attributable to the fact that Scandinavia is the world’s +largest producer of carbide of calcium. + +The Wigham petroleum system has proved similarly economical and +reliable, and has been installed in some of the wildest corners of +the globe. The Congested Districts Board for Ireland have established +a number of these beacons on the rugged west coast to assist the +fishermen in making their harbours at night. Many are placed in very +exposed positions on headlands, where they are frequently swept by the +full force of the Atlantic gales. The Austrian Government has adopted +the principle for lighting the dangerous coasts of the Adriatic near +Trieste, while the shoreline of Jamaica is safeguarded by more than +sixteen lights of this type. Many of these lights suffered severely +from the effects of the earthquake which overwhelmed the island a few +years ago, but others withstood all the shocks successfully. In this +instance, had expensive and massive lighthouses of the usual type been +erected, the loss would have been considerable, in view of the severity +of this seismic disturbance and the widespread destruction which was +wrought. These lights play a very prominent part in the guarding of +the southern ocean, the Australian shores being protected by over +sixty such beacons, many of which are established in very exposed and +isolated positions off the mainland. + +While the day is still far distant when expensive graceful towers, +carrying immensely powerful lights, will be no longer constructed, the +perfection and utility of the unattended light, in one or other of +its many forms, are assisting tangibly in the solution of the problem +of lighting busy shorelines adequately and inexpensively. Structures +costing tens of thousands sterling in future will be restricted to +important places, especially in connection with sea-rocks, such as +landfalls, or to those some distance from the land, where a fog-signal +station must be maintained, unless the example of the Platte Fougère +land-controlled station becomes adopted. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII + +FLOATING LIGHTHOUSES + + +Hand in hand with the development of the unattended light for service +on land positions has proceeded the adaptation of the floating +light. This may be described briefly as an enlarged edition of the +lighted buoy, which is such a conspicuous feature of our harbours and +estuaries. Yet it is more than a buoy. It can fulfil all the purposes +of a light-vessel, both as regards the emission of a ray of light or a +distinctive sound, so that both audible and visual warning are given +simultaneously. These lights likewise are automatic in their action, +and, when set going, require no further attention for some time. Nine +months or more are often permitted to pass without human hands touching +them, and they have solved some very abstruse problems in connection +with coast lighting. + +For instance, there is probably no such lonely stretch of coastline as +that of British Columbia and Alaska. There is only one large port north +of Vancouver--Prince Rupert--and this rising hive of maritime activity +is 550 miles distant. The coast is as wild as that of Norway, which, +indeed, it resembles very closely, bristling as it does with fjords and +islands, with rugged cliffs rising abruptly from the water to a height +of several hundred feet. Navigation at night is extremely hazardous, +as the path leads by devious ways through deep channels intersecting +the outer barriers of islands, where fogs hang low and thickly. The +captain has to pick his way carefully, determining his course by timing +the period between the blast of his siren and its echo, as it is +thrown from headland to headland. As the passenger traffic developed, +the masters of the vessels entrusted with so many human lives felt +the increased responsibility keenly, and agitated for more adequate +protection. The erection of lighthouses, even of the most economical +type, would have entailed huge expenditure by both the United States +and Canadian Governments, while the question of maintenance would have +bristled with searching problems. + +Accordingly, it was decided to adopt the floating automatic system, +which had proved eminently satisfactory in other parts of the world. +In this manner a highly successful and inexpensive solution of the +difficulty was found. These buoys have been installed at all the most +treacherous points leading to sounds and canals, as the lochs are +called, and have been found in every way equal to the simplest type +of attended lighthouse. The southern coast of Nova Scotia has been +protected in a similar manner, a chain of automatic lights, spaced ten +miles apart, having been completed, so that this wild, rugged shore +is patrolled very efficiently at the present moment. Other countries +have not been dilatory in adopting the same methods. Consequently, +to-day the automatic floating lighthouse is one of the handiest, most +efficient and reliable devices for assisting navigation that the +lighthouse engineer has at his command. + +The lights assume different forms, this factor being influenced by +position, specific duty, and local conditions. Similarly, the character +of the illuminant employed also varies, acetylene, compressed oil-gas, +petroleum, and electricity, being utilized, according to circumstances. +On the whole, however, acetylene gas appears to be the most favoured +illuminating medium, inasmuch as the preparation of the carbide of +calcium has undergone such marked improvement. + +When Mr. Thomas L. Willson discovered the cheap process for the +manufacture of carbide of calcium upon a commercial scale, and the +new industry became placed upon a firm footing, it was only natural +that the inventor should realize the possibilities of applying the +new illuminant to the assistance of navigation. Acetylene gas gives +a brilliant clear light of intense whiteness, which is capable of +penetrating a great distance. Accordingly, he set to work to devise +a buoy lighted by this gas, and able to carry sufficient storage of +calcium carbide to burn for weeks or months without attention. When +he had completed the first apparatus of this character, he handed it +over to the Marine Department of the Canadian Government for submission +to any test that they might consider expedient, in order to ascertain +the limits of its application. The buoy was set in position and +watched carefully. Periodically it was examined to ascertain whether +overhauling and cleaning were necessary, as well as the behaviour +of the light under all conditions of weather. Captains of vessels +passing the beacon were requested to pronounce their opinions upon the +quality of the light, and their remarks concerning its range, facility +with which it might be picked up, reliability, and so forth, were +carefully marshalled and digested by the authorities. Precisely what +the officials thought of the invention is reflected most convincingly +by the fact that to-day over 300 lights working upon this principle are +stationed in Canadian waters, both upon the storm-bound ocean coasts +and upon the wind-swept shores of the Great Lakes and waterways. + +[Illustration: FIG. 16.--SECTIONAL ELEVATION OF THE WILLSON AUTOMATIC +FLOATING LIGHT. (See next page.)] + +The Willson buoys are absolutely automatic in their operation. All +the impurities in the gas are removed by passing it through a special +purifier, so that the burner cannot become clogged or the light +impoverished. A charge of 1,300 to 1,500 pounds of carbide is carried +within the apparatus, and the gas is generated _under low pressure_. +The lantern is fitted with a Fresnel lens, so that the light is +condensed into an intensely powerful and penetrating horizontal beam. +One prominent feature is that the candle-power of acetylene gas is +seven times as high as that of compressed oil-gas, while the reservoir +of a given size will contain this equivalent of more light. The +candle-power of these floating lights obviously varies, the largest +size being capable of emitting a beam of 1,000 candle-power, this flame +being the maximum that the lens will stand without breaking. + +The construction and the principle of operation are exceedingly simple, +as may be gathered from reference to Fig. 16. The beacon comprises +a gas generator tube of steel (1), which is supported by the steel +float chamber (2), on the upper side of which is placed the support +(3) carrying the lantern (4). Stability is insured by means of the +counterweight (6) attached to the lower end of the generator tube. +A few feet from the bottom of the latter is a diaphragm (7), fitted +centrally with a conically-seated valve (8) which is mounted on a stem +(9). This extends through the centre of the generator and its head +(10). The upper end of the valve stem carries a hexagonal nut (11), +while the stem itself at this point has a keyway cut into it. A spline +is fitted into the generator head to engage the keyway, and when the +nut (11) is turned to close or to open the valve, the stem itself +cannot move with it, except in two directions only--up or down. The nut +itself cannot be turned too far, in which event it might drop the stem +and valve, as there is a stop-collar (12). Leakage of gas is prevented +by a cap (14), which is screwed into the generator head and sealed with +a rubber washer. This cap is sufficiently long to permit the valve stem +to be raised or lowered so as to adjust the movement of the valve. The +stem of the valve is protected from the carbide by enclosure within +a tube (13), which works through a guide bar (24) bolted to the side +of the generator tube. A grid (23) is fitted in the centre of the +diaphragm (7) and surrounding the valve (8), so as to prevent small +pieces of carbide, which may pass through the grate (16), from falling +into the water, and thereby being wasted. The steel grate upon which +the carbide rests is attached to the inside of the generator, a short +distance above the diaphragm. The grid (23) also acts as a valve seat, +and is provided with a rubber packing (15), which is held in a groove +in the seat, and projects a sufficient distance to make a good joint +with the valve (8) when it is closed, even if the valve happen to be +foul. + +The carbide of calcium, in the form of large crystals measuring about +8 by 4 inches, is placed in the generator tube when the beacon is +immersed in the water, the valve (8) being opened and the valve-cap +(14) screwed down. In the centre of the counterweight (6) is an orifice +through which the water enters from the outside, and passes through +the open valve, to come into contact with the carbide resting upon the +grate. Gas is generated instantly, to ascend through the carbide into +the purifying chamber (5), where all deleterious matter is removed, the +gas escaping thence through the small aperture (17) and pipe (18) to +the lantern, to which the supply-pipe is connected by the aid of the +coupling (19). + +Of course, at times gas is liable to be generated more rapidly than +it can be consumed. What happens? The apparatus is not provided with +facilities to receive the surplus gas. Being unable to escape upwards +through the generator tube, it collects at the bottom, and as the +pressure increases it gradually forces the water away from the carbide, +so that generation ceases, and is not resumed until the surplus gas has +been absorbed, when the water once more is able to come into contact +with the carbide. Thus it will be seen that the gas generation is +controlled automatically, and that it is almost impossible for the gas +pressure within the plant to reach a disruptive degree, owing to the +fact that when it exceeds a certain limit it has a free vent from the +bottom of the device, where the water normally is permitted to enter to +carry out its designed purpose. + +This invention has been utilized for a wide variety of purposes, from +the lighting of harbours, navigable channels, rivers, bays, and so +forth, to that of exposed coasts. The automatic beacon, properly so +called, has a tower, which brings the focal plane to an elevation +varying between 50 and 100 feet, this tower being built of lattice +steelwork attached to the top half of the buoy, with a day mark +surrounding the lantern gallery, access to which is secured by an iron +ladder. This type of light carries a sufficient storage of carbide +in a single charge to keep the light burning continuously for about +forty weeks. In this instance the only modification from that already +described is that the water for the production of the gas is admitted +into the top instead of to the bottom of the generator. When an excess +of gas occurs, the pressure thereof drives the water away from the +carbide until the surplus has been consumed. Another type, somewhat +smaller, carrying a charge sufficient for nearly six months, has proved +highly successful as a coastal light, some thirty beacons of this class +being stationed along the shore of British Columbia. The only trouble +experienced therewith in these waters has been due to frost, which, +solidifying the water around the buoy, has interrupted the designed +functions. + +But probably the most complete and useful type of Willson acetylene +gas beacon is that in which the Courtenay whistling device is +incorporated, so that in thick weather audible warning of the danger +may be extended. In this instance the floating chamber which supports +the superstructure carrying the light and also the generator tube, is +fitted with two further tubes which project from the base like huge +legs. These tubes are open at the bottom, but are closed at the top +except for a connection with a valve-casing, which is fitted with a +ball-valve, and upon which a powerful whistle is bolted. Now, if the +buoy is lowered and anchored in absolutely still water, the water will +rise to the same level within the tubes as it is outside; but when the +buoy is lifted upon the crest of a wave, the level of the water falls, +so that the air space within the tubes is increased. Air enters this +augmented space through the ball-check inlet valve in the valve-casing. +When the beacon falls, naturally the water endeavours to maintain its +level within the tubes, and therefore the air which was admitted into +the space becomes compressed, to be expelled through the only possible +vent--the whistle--thereby producing a very powerful blast. Thirty of +these combined light and whistling buoys have been strung along the +rugged Nova Scotia coast, and have proved highly popular, that outside +Halifax harbour being known colloquially among seafarers as the “Outer +Automatic.” + +Another acetylene system, but working upon a better principle, has been +perfected in Sweden, and, indeed, now has been adopted universally, +owing to its many excellent features. This is the “Aga” light, which +is the invention of Mr. Gustaf Dalén,[C] and which has been brought +to a high stage of commercial success by the Gas Accumulator Company +of Stockholm. I have pointed out the one objection to the Willson +acetylene automatic light--namely, its uselessness when the surrounding +water becomes frozen. While this drawback does not affect its sphere +of utility to a noticeable degree in Canadian waters, it acts somewhat +adversely in other seas where similar conditions prevail, but where +the navigable channels are kept open by ice-breakers, such as, for +instance, in the Baltic Sea. Mr. Dalén recognized this weak point in +any system wherein contact with water is responsible for the generation +of the gas, and accordingly sought for a superior method. Fortunately, +the perfection of a new means of handling acetylene, by French +inventors, offered the complete solution of the problem in a practical +way. The principle of this lies in the use of dissolved acetylene, +which is perfectly safe from explosion, and can be handled with the +greatest facility. The gas can be stored in cylinders similar to those +used for containing oxygen and hydrogen under pressure, gases which +are easier to transport than carbide of calcium, and, what is far more +important, climatic conditions do not exercise the slightest influence +upon it. + + [C] The humane labours of Mr. Dalén received recognition by the + award of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1912. + +Dissolved acetylene may be stored within the cylinder, or accumulator, +as it is called, to a pressure of at least ten atmospheres, and at +this pressure it contains 100 times its own volume of acetylene gas. +The accumulators may be made of any desired size, this factor being +governed by considerations of transport and application, as well as of +the consumption of the burner. + +The perfection of the dissolved acetylene process came as a great boon +to the Swedish lighting authorities, inasmuch as they have probably +the most difficult stretch of coastline in the world to protect. At the +same time, owing to the wild, exposed character of many of the points +which demanded lighting, a perfect, economical, and reliable automatic +system was in urgent demand. Acetylene was an obvious illuminant, +since, while the country is deficient in the essential resources for +the preparation of other fuels, carbide of calcium is very cheap, +Sweden, in fact, being the largest producer of this commodity. The +Swedish Board of Pilotage experimented with acetylene lighting for six +or seven years, submitting every known acetylene lighting system to +searching practical trials, but failed to be sufficiently convinced on +the vital question of reliability. Freezing-up was the most pronounced +shortcoming, but when dissolved acetylene appeared as a commercial +product this disadvantage was removed completely, and acetylene was +adopted. + +[Illustration: THE “KALKGRUNDET,” SWEDEN’S LATEST AUTOMATIC LIGHTSHIP. + +The Dalén Flasher is used, and this undoubtedly is the finest vessel of +its type in the world.] + +Yet dissolved acetylene, though completely successful, possessed one +drawback. It was expensive as compared with oil-gas. Accordingly, there +was great scope for a means of economizing the consumption of the fuel +without interfering with its lighting value and efficiency. At the same +time a superior flashing system was desired. The methods which were +in vogue to this end were satisfactory so far as they went, but they +involved a considerable useless consumption of gas. + +This is where Mr. Gustaf Dalén completed one of his greatest +achievements. He perfected a flashing apparatus wherein the gas passes +to the burner in intermittent puffs, to be ignited by a small invisible +pilot light. The device was tested and proved so successful that it +was adopted throughout the service. In Swedish waters to-day there are +127 aids to navigation operating upon this system, of which five are +lightships. The success of the invention in the land of its origin +attracted other nations to its possibilities. At the present moment +over 700 lights, scattered throughout the world, are working upon this +principle. + +If a beacon throws a fixed light, unless it is of extreme power, it is +liable to be confused with a ship’s mast-light, a fact which was found +to be one of the greatest objections to the fixed white light of the +acetylene aid to navigation. On the other hand, a flashing warning must +be of such a character that it cannot be mistaken for the twinkling +of a brilliant star, or of a light which has nothing to do with +navigation. This is where the “Aga” flasher emphasizes its value. It +throws a short, powerful gleam at brief intervals. The mariner cannot +possibly confuse or misconstrue it; the regularity of the flash arrests +his immediate attention, and its purport may be divined instantly. The +apparatus is simple and highly effective, while it has the advantage +that the periods of light and darkness can be altered in relation to +one another, or grouped, as desired. + +From the maintenance point of view, however, the invention is of far +greater significance. As the gas is consumed only during the light +periods, which are very brief in comparison with the eclipse, the +economy effected is very appreciable. When the apparatus was first +brought within the range of practical application, many authorities, +which had become wedded to the oil-gas lighting system, wherein the +light flashes are of long duration in comparison with the dark periods, +maintained that the Dalén flash was too short to be of any value. They +disregarded the fact that the power of the acetylene-gas flash is about +seven times as intense as that of the oil-gas light. For instance, when +the United States acquired the first Aga light in the autumn of 1908, +the authorities demanded either a characteristic signal comprising ten +seconds of light followed by five seconds of darkness, or flashes and +eclipses of equal duration--five seconds. + +[Illustration: THE “SVINBĀDAN,” UNATTENDED LIGHTSHIP IN SWEDISH WATERS. + +It works upon the Dalén system with flasher, giving a flash of 0·3 +second duration, followed by darkness for 2·7 seconds.] + +There was a prejudice against short, powerful, and oft-repeating +flashes, mainly because their advantages were misunderstood. Practical +experience, however, demonstrated the fact that the period of light +might be reduced very considerably, and, as a result of prolonged +investigations, the Swedish Board of Pilotage adopted a characteristic +comprising 0·3 second light followed by darkness for 2·7 seconds. This +has become known since as the “one-tenth flash,” owing to the luminous +interval occupying one-tenth of the combined period of light and +darkness. It will be seen that, as a result of this arrangement, twenty +flashes are thrown per minute. + +As the flame is lighted for only one-tenth of the signal period, +it will be seen that the saving of gas amounts to 90 per cent., as +compared with the light which is burning constantly. Accordingly, the +gas charge will last ten times as long with the flashing apparatus; +consequently, the accumulator need have only one-tenth of the capacity +of that for a similar beacon which burns constantly. The economy really +is not quite 90 per cent., as a certain volume of gas is consumed by +the pilot flame, which ignites the charge of gas issuing from the +flasher burner. This, however, is an insignificant item, inasmuch as +the quantity of gas burned by the pilot light does not exceed one-third +of a cubic foot per twenty-four hours. + +Not only has this highly ingenious system been adapted to varying types +of buoys, similar in design and range of action to those described in +connection with the Willson apparatus, wherein the light may be left +unattended for as long as twelve months, according to the capacity of +the accumulator, but it has also been applied to “light-boats” and +light-vessels. The “light-boat” is a hybrid, being a combination of the +buoy and the lightship, and was devised to meet special conditions. +Thus, the “Gerholmen” light-boat stationed in the mouth of a Swedish +river, where the current runs exceedingly strongly, resembles a small +boat with a water-tight deck. From the centre of this rises a steel +tripod, at the top of which the lantern is placed. The gas accumulators +are stored within the hull, and are of sufficient capacity to maintain +the light for a round twelvemonth without attention, as the flashing +apparatus is incorporated. + +The Aga light has come to be regarded as one of the greatest +developments in lighthouse engineering, and has been adopted +extensively throughout the world in connection with either floating +or fixed aids to navigation. The United States have decided to adopt +the system exclusively henceforth, until a further progressive step is +achieved, and several floating lights of this type have been acquired +already to guard wild and lonely stretches of the coastline. + +Here and there attempts have been made to apply electricity to +inaccessible lights. The most interesting endeavour in this direction +was in connection with the lighting of the Gedney Channel from the +open Atlantic to New York harbour. This formerly constituted the only +available highway for the big liners, and it is exceedingly tortuous +and treacherous--so much so that vessels arriving off Sandy Hook +in waning daylight invariably anchored and awaited the dawn before +resuming the journey. The great difficulty in connection with Gedney’s +Channel was the distance of the main lights on shore, the direct range +at one part being over thirteen miles. Consequently the land lights +were of little utility to the pilot. + +The authorities decided to convert the channel into an electric-lighted +waterway. Buoys were laid down on either side of the thoroughfare. They +were of the spar type, resembling decapitated masts projecting from +the water, and were held in position by mushroom anchors, weighing +4,000 pounds, or nearly 2 tons, apiece. Each buoy was crowned with +a 100 candle-power incandescent electric lamp, encased within a +special globe having a diameter of 5 inches. An electric cable was +laid on either side of this street and connected with each buoy. The +first section was completed in 1888, the electric gleams being shed +for the first time on November 7 of that year. The system appeared +to give such complete satisfaction that it was extended. Altogether +six and a quarter miles of cable were laid down, which in itself was +no easy feat, while prodigious difficulties were experienced in its +maintenance, owing to the severity of the currents and the treacherous +character of the sea-bed. The lights were controlled from a central +point ashore, and the idea of being able to switch on and off a chain +of aids to navigation by a simple movement presented many attractive +features. Although navigation appreciated this improvement, the Great +White Waterway did not prove a complete success. It did not possess +that vital element of complete reliability which is so essential to +navigation. + +Compressed oil-gas has been employed extensively for unattended +floating lights, but it possesses so many shortcomings that it is being +superseded on all sides by acetylene, with the exception of one or two +countries which appear to be inseparably wedded to this principle. It +is expensive both to install and to maintain, while the “radius of +action”--otherwise, the period during which it may be left without +human attention--is unavoidably brief. For temporary purposes, such as +the indication of a submerged wreck, it is efficient, while it is also +serviceable for accessible positions, but it is not regarded as being +a satisfactory system for places which human hands cannot reach for +months at a time. + +Crude petroleum in conjunction with the Wigham long-burning petroleum +lamp, wherein the flame is produced from a moving wick, has been +adopted widely. Lights installed upon this principle may be left for +ninety-three days at a time without anxiety. In many instances the +Wigham light is mounted upon steel boats; in other cases it is attached +to floating wooden structures. The British Admiralty in particular is +partial to this type of light, and it must be confessed that it has +proved highly serviceable and reliable. + +I have described already the general principles and features of this +system. When it is applied to a floating beacon, and it is desired +to save the oil dropping from the drip valve, a tank is fixed to the +deck of the floating structure, and connected by a flexible pipe to +the coupling at the bottom of the float cylinder. A universal joint is +attached to the connection on the top of the tank to prevent the pipe +being twisted by the swinging and swaying motion of the lamp on the +gimbals. When the lamp is inspected, the oil may be pumped out of the +tank, strained, and used time after time in the float cylinder. + +One of the most interesting of this type of floating boat-lights is +to be seen in Queenstown harbour. The hull is 30 feet in length, and +has a beam of 11 feet. On this, within a conical structure measuring +7½ feet high and 6½ feet in diameter at the deck, is mounted the +lantern. Although the lamp is exposed to drenching seas and heavy +storms, it has never yet failed, a fact which conclusively points to +its efficiency. It rides well, and the lamp is kept much drier than the +lights on ordinary buoys, according to the observations of the engineer +responsible for its maintenance. In this case the focus of the light is +brought 12 feet above the level of the sea. + +Probably the most compelling illustration of the utility of the +automatic beacon is offered by the unattended lightship. The Otter Rock +vessel is one of the most interesting examples of this development. +It was designed by Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson, and comprises a +substantial steel hull, the deck of which is covered so that the +interior is absolutely water-tight. The craft is provided with a +central and heavy bilge keels, so as to reduce rolling to the minimum. +Two heavy steel bulkheads divide the craft into three water-tight +compartments, in the centre of which two large welded-steel gas tanks +are stowed. These are of sufficient capacity to feed the light for +several months without replenishment. The light is mounted upon a steel +tower placed amidships, which brings the focal plane 25 feet above the +water. The gas is fed from the tanks to the lantern through the tower, +a valve reducing the pressure, while a ladder enables the attendants +to climb to the lantern gallery to adjust the burner and flame, and to +clean the lenses, upon the occasion of their periodical visits. + +The gas cylinders are charged from the supply-ship through flexible +hoses, the gas being compressed to about 180 pounds per square inch. +The light is of sufficient power and elevation to be seen from a +distance of some twelve miles. The beacon gives not only a visual, but +also an audible warning. On the deck of the boat a bell is mounted, +this being rung not only by the motion of the ship, in the manner of +a bell-buoy, but also by the gas on its passage from the tanks to the +lantern, the bell being fitted with two clappers for this purpose. The +gas in passing from the tank enters a receptacle having a flexible +diaphragm, which, as it becomes filled with gas, is naturally pressed +outwards. On this is mounted a central metal piece, which is connected +to a rod and lever. As the diaphragm is forced outwards, it moves the +rod and actuates the lever, which, when the diaphragm falls, return +to their normal positions. Attached to this mechanical arrangement +is the bell-clapper, which alternately is lifted and dropped upon +the dome of the bell, thereby causing it to ring. After the gas has +performed its duty in raising the clapper lever and rod, it passes +to the lantern to be consumed. Thus, while the light gleams brightly +and steadily, the bell rings with unerring regularity--about three +times per minute--day and night for months on a single charge; both +must continue in operation until the supply of gas is expended. The +success of this interesting and novel lightship has been responsible +for similar installations in other similarly wild and exposed positions +where approach is uncertain and often impossible for weeks at a time. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by permission of Messrs. Edmondsons Ltd., Dublin._ + +THE LANTERN USED IN THE WIGHAM AUTOMATIC PETROLEUM BEACON. + +The circular shallow reservoir contains the burning-oil, which feeds +the wick as it moves towards the burner, and also acts as a deck on +which the lantern is built. In this ingenious system the flame is not +produced at the end of the wick as in the ordinary lamp, but from the +flat side of the wick, which is moved continuously in a horizontal +direction over a small roller. By this means a light of uniform +intensity is obtained, as carbonization cannot occur.] + +One misadventure befell the Otter Rock light-vessel, which is moored in +an open position over the rock of that name near Islay, although it was +not the fault of either the system or the designing engineers. There +was a flaw in one of the shackles, and while the ship was sawing and +tugging at her anchors during a heavy gale the flaw asserted itself, +the shackle broke, and the lightship got away. She was recovered with +some difficulty, after having drifted about twenty miles. She was found +stove in, having embraced the rocks during her wayward journey, but +otherwise was unharmed. She was towed into port, repaired, and then +taken back to her station, where she was secured more firmly than ever, +while her chains were closely inspected to make assurance doubly sure. +No repetition of the accident has occurred since, and the Otter Rock +lightship, tethered firmly to the rock, rides gales and calms, throwing +her welcome rays and droning her musical warning the whole year +round as steadily and efficiently as if she had a crew aboard. + +A similar lightship was built for the Trinity House authorities from +the designs of their engineer, Sir Thomas Matthews, for service on the +English coast. This boat, built of steel, measures 65 feet in length, +by 18½ feet beam and 10½ feet depth, with the lantern carried at the +point of an open steel pyramidal structure, rising sufficiently high +above the boat’s deck amidships to bring the focal plane 26 feet above +the level of the water, thereby giving it a visible range of some ten +miles. The boat is provided with two holds, in which the gas reservoirs +are placed, the total gas capacity being about 1,500 cubic feet--enough +to keep the light burning for one hundred days. + +This light is of the revolving type, and the rotation of the apparatus +is accomplished very ingeniously. Before the gas passes to the burner, +it drives a tiny three-cylinder engine, the crank-shaft of which is +connected to the revolving apparatus through gearing. The speed of the +turntable is kept constant by the aid of a governor, and the apparatus +works so smoothly and perfectly that there is not the slightest +divergence from the rate at which the apparatus is set. As the gas +emerges from the engine, it passes to the burner to be consumed. By +means of a novel apparatus, should anything befall the little motor or +the rotating mechanism, the light does not drop out of service. In that +event the gas flows directly to the burner, the only difference being +that a fixed instead of a revolving light is emitted. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of Messrs. Edmondsons Ltd., Dublin._ + +THE “6-BAR” FLOATING AUTOMATIC WIGHAM LIGHT IN PORTSMOUTH HARBOUR. + +This beacon, burning crude petroleum, burns for thirty days on a single +oil charge.] + +When the Scandinavian liner _Norge_, while on her way to the United +States in July, 1904, fouled the terrible Rockall and lost 750 of her +passengers, the outcry about the absence of all means of indicating +this spot to the navigator vibrated round the world. Yet it was a +useless agitation. Rockall is a no-man’s land; no nation has planted +its flag upon its cone of granite; no Power cares whether it continues +its harvest of human lives or otherwise. The various countries appear +to think that it is too much off the map to be worthy of a moment’s +thought; its existence is brought home only by a holocaust. + +After this heartrending disaster, Messrs. D. and C. Stevenson +adumbrated a promising means of indicating this awful graveyard to +the seafarer. They suggested that two automatic unattended lightships +should be constructed, and that one should relieve the other every six +months. The project was eminently practicable, but every country seemed +to shirk responsibility in the expense of its adoption. But Rockall is +a unique danger spot; in no other part of the known world does such a +formidable isolated peak of granite rise from the ocean depths, for +it is in mid-Atlantic, 160 miles west of St. Kilda, and 290 miles off +the Scottish mainland. It may be away from the great steamship lanes +of the Atlantic, yet a vast volume of shipping passes within sight +of its curious formation. Seeing that the foremost maritime Powers +defray between them the cost of maintaining the light off Cape Spartel, +surely the dictates of humanity are sufficiently pressing to secure the +indication of this islet. The maintenance of an unattended automatic +beacon, such as Messrs. Stevenson advocated, would not impose a severe +strain upon the treasuries of the leading Powers of the world, whose +interests are associated intimately with the North Atlantic. + +The perfection of the unattended lightship, working automatically, has +provided the lighthouse engineer with a powerful weapon for marking the +most exposed and out-of-the-way danger spots. When the new development +is carried to its uttermost lengths, no graveyard of the ocean, no +matter how remote and inaccessible, need be without means of warning +shipping of its whereabouts. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +THE LIGHT-KEEPER AND HIS LIFE + + +The life of the guardian of a blazing signpost of the coast is much +the same the whole world over. It is unavoidably monotonous under +the best conditions. Each succeeding day and night brings a similar +round of toil, with very little variation. There are the same duties +to be performed in strict accordance with routine, and under normal +circumstances there are many idle hours which have to be whiled away +as best one can. On the mainland, especially in the South of England, +France, Germany, and the United States, the loneliness and monotony are +not felt so keenly by the wardens of the light, as in many instances +they are in close proximity to ports and towns, where a little welcome +relaxation may be obtained during the rest spells; while in the +summer evenings, if the lights should be only a few miles away from +civilization, visitors are frequent. Again, the keepers as a rule live +with their families in cosy solid buildings, and, having a stretch +of garden flanking their homes, can expend their hours of leisure to +advantage. + +On the isolated, lonely rock, however, the conditions are vastly +different. The average person, when regarding on a calm day the tall +slim outlines of a tower rising from the water, is apt to regard +the life of those responsible for keeping the light going as one +enveloped in romance and peace, far removed from the trials and worries +of the maelstrom of civilization. But twenty-four hours on one of +these beacons completely dispel all romantic impression. The gilt of +fascination wears away quickly, and the visitor recognizes only too +forcibly the terrible desolation of it all, and admires the little band +of men who watch vigilantly over the deep for the guidance of those who +go down to the sea in ships. + +The keepers of such stations are marooned as completely as any castaway +on a barren island. In many instances they cannot even signal to the +shore. If anything should go wrong, they must wait until a ship comes +in sight, to communicate their tidings by flag signals. If the call is +urgent, say for illness, and the passing boat carries a doctor, she +will heave to, and, if conditions permit, will launch a boat to carry +the medical man to the rock to administer aid. If it is a matter of +life or death, the ship will take the man off. + +As may be imagined, upon a sea-rock, owing to the slender proportions +of the tower, the quarters are inevitably very cramped, with no +facilities for the men to stretch their limbs. The manner in which +space is economized in the small circular apartments is astonishing. +The essential furniture is built to the wall, and liberal cupboard +space is provided, the governing consideration being to provide the men +with as much open space as the restricted circumstances will permit. +The only exercise that the men can obtain in the open air is upon the +narrow shelf forming the landing platform, or the narrow gallery around +the lantern. In the majority of circumstances it is less than that +provided for the benefit of a prisoner in an exercise yard. + +The lamp is lighted at dusk, and, unless it is a fixed white light, the +clockwork driving the occulting and revolving mechanism has to be wound +up. Seeing that this entails the lifting of a ton or so up the vertical +cylinder in which the weight travels, this is no mean task in itself. + +Unremitting vigilance has to be maintained while the lamp is burning. +It demands attention from time to time, while, should anything serious +go wrong, the attendant must bring the reserve lamp into service +without a moment’s loss of time and without interruption of the ray. + +“The light must not go out!” That is the inflexible rule of all +attended lights between the two Poles. Even if it failed only for a +minute, the circumstance would not escape observation. Some vessel +would detect the breakdown; it would be recorded in the captain’s +log-book. When he touched the first port, intimation would be sent to +the organization responsible for the beacon, setting forth the fact +that on such and such a night, at a certain hour, this light was not +showing in accordance with the official light list, or was giving a +warning different from that laid down for the guidance of the seafarer. +An inquiry would be instituted immediately to ascertain the reason, and +the light-keeper probably would find himself in an awkward position, +although months might have elapsed since the incident. + +There is nothing haphazard about the control of lights. The +circumstances are too serious to permit the slightest deviation from +hard-and-fast regulations. The passing mariner is entirely dependent +upon these blazing guardians, maybe from a distance of fifteen miles or +more. He has his chart wherewith he is able to steer his way, but he +must have certain marks to guide him at night, so that he may be sure +of his course and position. Accordingly, every lighthouse possesses +some individual characteristic in regard to its light. As explained +elsewhere, it may be a group flash, an occulting flash of a distinctive +nature, a revolving light which completes a revolution once in a +certain period of time, or a fixed blaze. + +Fortunately, the men watching over the lights appreciate the gravity +of their responsibility, and are reliable to an heroic degree. Each +is a man picked for the duty, who is not appalled by loneliness, and +is of unimpeachable precision. Of course, accidents will happen, but +dereliction of duty is criminal, because it may bring about loss of +life. Carelessness on the part of a light-keeper precipitated the +loss of the steamer _Victoria_ when crossing the English Channel from +Newhaven to Dieppe on April 12, 1887. The French coast, as it was being +approached, became shrouded by the inexorable fog-fiend. The captain +lost his way, although he knew, from the time he had been steaming, +that he must be perilously near the French shore. He listened for +the droning of the fog-siren mounted on Pointe d’Ailly, but in vain. +He sent to the engine-room to ascertain the number of revolutions +the engines had made, and this convinced him that he must be close +inshore, despite the silence of the fog-signal. Thinking that he might +have strayed some distance east of Dieppe, he brought his vessel +round, and then crawled slowly ahead. But he had scarcely settled into +his forward stride when there was a crash--a terrible splitting and +crunching. The vessel had kept a true course, and now had hit the very +rocks which the captain had sought to avoid. The passengers, being +ready to land, were got into the boats and pushed through the dense +curtain for land, but some thirty passengers and crew were never seen +again. + +The subsequent inquiry revealed an amazing breach of duty on the part +of those in charge of the light-station. The head lighthouse-keeper, +off duty at the time, was asleep in bed, but his wife awoke him as she +observed the fog settling upon the water. He dressed hurriedly, and +rushed to see what his companion was doing. This official had failed +lamentably in his duties. Instead of starting the boiler fires to raise +the steam to work the siren upon the first signs of the approaching +enemy, as he should have done, he had delayed the duty. The result +was that an hour was wasted, and during this interval the unfortunate +captain took his ship upon the rocks. To make matters worse, the +keepers did not perceive the wreck until some two hours after the +disaster, although they admitted that they heard the cries of people +an hour and a half previously, but never suspected the cause of the +turmoil. + +The man on watch during the night maintains a keen lookout. The +faintest signs of a gathering mist are sufficient to cause him to wake +his assistant to manipulate the fog-signal, even if the precaution +proves to be unnecessary. “It is better to be safe than sorry,” is the +lighthouse-keeper’s motto; so he runs no risks. + +When the gathering brightness of the dawn enables the form of the +tower to be identified from a distance of several miles, the light is +extinguished. Heavy curtains are drawn across the windows, not only +to protect the lenses from the sun, but also to give a characteristic +colour to the lantern. Thus, by daylight a lantern may appear to be a +dull red or an intense black. To give a brilliant light by night and be +a prominent landmark by day forms the dual duty of the guardian of the +coast. + +When the lantern has cooled, the keepers coming on the day shift have +to clean the lamps and put them in order for service the following +evening. Everything has to be overhauled and got ready for use at a +moment’s notice. The oil reservoirs have to be examined and charged, +and the panes of glass, with which the lantern is glazed, cleaned and +brightened. The reflectors have to be polished, for they must be kept +in a constant state of mirror-like brilliancy. All brasswork has to be +cleaned and polished until it gleams like burnished gold, while the +rooms must be washed and kept in the pink of condition, free from the +smallest specks of dust. + +The necessity for extreme cleanliness and spotlessness is emphasized +in every lighthouse. The inspector has a highly-trained, quick +eye for detecting carelessness, and he has one instinct developed +peculiarly--the discovery of dust. He draws his fingers over +everything, and squints quizzically at an object from all angles. Woe +betide the keeper if the slightest trace of dirt is detected. Then the +inspector closes the other eye, and the keeper receives a squint which +does not augur well for his future. A few sharp, pointed remarks are +rasped out, and it is not long before the relief-boat comes out with +another man. + +The engineers and other representatives of authority are remorseless. +A man is judged from apparently trifling details. If he permits a +door-knob to become sullied, he is just as likely to overlook the +polishing of the lenses, or to perform some other vital task in a +perfunctory manner. + +One of the Stevensons achieved a peculiar notoriety among the Scottish +keepers for his unbending attitude in this connection. He had a scent +for dust and untidiness developed as keenly as that of a mouse for +cheese. When his boat came alongside a light, and the keeper stepped +forward to extend a helping hand, the eyes of the engineer scanned +him searchingly. If the man’s appearance were not immaculate, +trouble loomed ahead. This engineer maintained that if a man were +indifferent to his own appearance, and permitted dust to collect upon +his own clothes, he could not be trusted to maintain the delicate +apparatus of a lighthouse in apple-pie order! What was more to the +point, the engineer generally was correct in his deductions. He spared +no effort to place the most responsible lights in the hands of men +above suspicion in regard to cleanliness. Although, as this martinet +confessed, nothing pained him more than to have words with any of his +keepers, cleanliness had to be maintained. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the “Syren and Shipping.”_ + +THE PUMPS WHEREBY THE OIL IS LIFTED FROM THE LOWEST FLOOR TO THE +LANTERN-ROOM.] + +When the keeper has completed his routine duties, he is at liberty to +spend his leisure according to his inclinations. As a rule the men turn +these periods to advantage. Reading is a popular recreation, and the +authorities maintain a circulating library, the books being changed +with every relief. But the men could accept twice as much literature +as is available at present. Here a word should be said concerning the +Lighthouse Literature Mission and its work, which is international. +The idea was conceived by Mr. Samuel H. Strain, and the work is +conducted from Belfast, Ireland. The most conspicuous feature of this +organization is that every penny received is turned to good and useful +purpose in connection with the object. The founder conducts it without +monetary reward, so that the item of “operating” charges does not +swamp the greater proportion of receipts, as is the case with so many +so-called missions in other fields. There are few organizations which +are so deserving of financial support, because this mission brings +welcome relaxation to a hard-worked community whose vigil secures the +safety of those who travel on the sea. The labours of Mr. Strain are +highly appreciated by those who keep watch and ward in seagirt prisons, +and the mission deserves far stauncher support from the philanthropic +than it receives at present. Sympathizers with the loneliness of the +lighthouse-keeper are prone to think that these men are in dire need +of spiritual pabulum, and are apt to send literature of an emphatic +goody-goody nature. But the keeper of the light is as human as the +clerk in the city. He is so accustomed to the company of Nature, and +has cultivated such a deep respect for the Master of the Universe +during his spells of duty, that he welcomes a diversion therefrom in +his hours of leisure. A humorous paper is more welcome than a tract on +the evils of drink. + +When the weather is favourable the men seek a little relaxation in +fishing, but here again they have to suffer considerable denial, as +the tackle invariably becomes inextricably entangled with the rocks, +so that the losses exceed the prizes. In the United States the greater +number of the keepers maintain a garden well stocked with vegetables +and flowers. The tending of these charges carries the minds of the +men from their work completely, and for the opportunity to practise +this hobby they are indebted to the kindness of the Government, which +supplies seeds free of charge. + +It is when the gale is raging tumultuously that the men in the tower +are compelled to realize their position. The waves pound the rock and +building so ceaselessly and relentlessly that the latter trembles +and shakes like a leaf. At times the din is so deafening that the +men cannot converse; they are compelled to communicate with each +other by signs. The waves pick up stones and hurl them with terrific +force against the lantern. Occasionally the elements triumph in their +assault, and the missiles shatter the glass. To step out on the gallery +in the teeth of a blizzard to clear the snow away demands no little +courage. As the man emerges upon the narrow platform, he is engulfed in +the swirling flakes, and often is pinned against the masonry so tightly +by the wind that he cannot move a limb; at other times he is swept +almost off his feet. While engaged in his freezing task, he also runs +the risk of being drenched by a rising comber. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the “Syren and Shipping.”_ + +COMBINED KITCHEN AND LIVING-ROOM IN THE LIGHTHOUSE.] + +The men on the lonely, exposed Tillamook Rock, off the Oregon coast, +have had more than one occasion to respect the storm-fiend. One night, +while a fearful gale was raging, a huge mass of rock was torn away from +the islet, snatched by the waves, and thrown high into the air. It +fell with terrific force upon the dome of the lantern, splintering the +roof and smashing the light, so that no welcome rays could be thrown +from the tower again that night. The keepers at once set to work with +the fog-signal, and during the hours of darkness worked like slaves, +blaring out a warning by sound which they were unable to give visually. + +Fortunately, such an experience as befell the keepers of the American +Thimble Shoal light is very rare. This beacon marks the shoal of that +name, and is, or rather was, a screw-pile iron lighthouse, marking 11 +feet of water at the entrance to Chesapeake Bay, Virginia, U.S.A. On +December 27, 1909, the keepers were immersed in their tasks, when there +was a terrible crash followed by a dismal rending and splitting. The +building shivered from top to bottom. The keepers were thrown off their +feet, and when they regained their wits they found that the schooner +_Malcolm Baxter Junior_, while being towed by a tug, had blundered into +them, and had carried a considerable portion of the building away. The +impact upset the light; the scattered oil burst into flame, and within +a few minutes the lighthouse was blazing like a gigantic bonfire. The +keepers stuck to their posts, and endeavoured frantically to extinguish +the outbreak, but their efforts were too puny to make any impression. +At last, when a foothold was no longer possible with safety, and under +extreme pressure, they abandoned their charge. When the flames had +completed their destructive work the lighthouse presented a sorry +sight, being a mass of broken and twisted ironwork. A wooden tower was +erected with all despatch, and a fog-signal was installed, so that the +men could carry on their duties while the reconstruction of the station +was hurried forward. + +The keepers turn their hands to strange occupations. Fretwork, +wood-carving, poker-work, and similar hobbies, are practised freely. +A few devote their leisure to intellectual improvement to fit them +for other walks in life. The keeper of Windward Point, Guantanamo +Bay, Cuba, devoted his energies to studying, and obtaining diplomas +in, mechano-therapy and suggestive therapeutics, as well as becoming +proficient in Esperanto. The keepers of two other American lights set +themselves to the mastery of jurisprudence, and in due course resigned +their positions and rented offices in the city, where in the course of +a few years they built up very remunerative legal practices. As a rule +the lighthouse-keeper is an expert handy-man, as he is compelled to +complete a whole list of duties in addition to maintaining the lights. +In the summer the metal and wooden lights have to be given a coat of +paint, while plumbing and other displays of skill in metal have to be +carried out, even if only temporarily. + +The calling is exceedingly healthy, which accounts for the immunity +from illness which these men enjoy. Also, as a rule, the land-lights +are set amidst wild romantic surroundings. Some years ago a number of +American families, in the search for a quiet, health-restoring rest, +were in the habit of spending their vacations at lighthouses, to the +financial profit of the keepers. Eventually, however, the authorities, +fearing that the keeper might be distracted from his duties, issued a +summary order forbidding this practice, much to the disgust of the men, +and “attractive lighthouse apartments” became a thing of the past. In +Great Britain an order was issued that “no ale or other intoxicating +liquor be allowed to be sold in any lighthouse.” The precise reason for +this strange ordinance is not quite clear, but it is significant to +note that it came into force immediately after the disastrous fire at +the Leasowe lighthouse, on the Wirral shore. + +The lighthouse invariably is an object of attraction among the general +public, but this interest seldom goes to the length narrated by a +keeper of one of the West Indian lights. One night two of the men at +this particular station decided to hunt for red crabs on the beach +below. They started off with a hurricane lamp, but were astonished, +when they gained the foreshore, to see a large sloop hard and fast +on the reef, although the night was beautifully clear and the light +was burning brilliantly. With much effort the keepers got out their +dory, put off to the wreck, and endeavoured to get the sloop out of +her uncomfortable position, but, finding her too well fixed, took off +the passengers. The survivors were housed in the keepers’ quarters +until next morning, when they were succoured. The head-keeper asked the +captain how he managed to get into such a position, and to his surprise +learned that, as the passengers were anxious to obtain a clear close +view of the light, the master had stood inshore, not knowing that the +reef over which vigil was mounted ran out far into the water. That +navigator paid dearly for his attempt to satisfy curiosity. His sloop +broke up, since she was impaled too firmly to be salvaged. + +It is not often that the utter loneliness and monotony of the daily +round unhinges a keeper’s mind, but this awful fate overtook the warden +of a somewhat isolated American light. The man had served with Admiral +Dewey off Manila, and upon his return home the Government placed him in +charge of a station as an occupation for the evening of his life, and +as a recompense for faithful service. He settled down with his wife and +family, but the isolation soon began to affect his brain. For days he +would absent himself from the light, which would soon have failed had +it not been for the unswerving devotion of his wife and the assistance +of one of two friends living in the locality. They spared no effort +to keep the beacon burning, lest the authorities might hear about +the keeper’s strange behaviour, and deprive him of his charge, and, +incidentally, of his livelihood. In due course the incident did reach +the authorities, and, not knowing what was the matter with the man, +they took action accordingly. As the keeper entered the station after +one of his inexplicable expeditions of a fortnight’s duration, he was +arrested for desertion. He was examined promptly by two doctors, who +found him hopelessly insane, and was incarcerated in an asylum, where +in the course of a few days he became a raving lunatic. + +Often the keepers, although only condemned to imprisonment for a +certain period at a time, have to tolerate a longer stay, owing to +the relief-boat being unable to approach them. In some instances the +delay may run into five weeks or more. During the winter the relief of +the Eddystone, Longships, Wolf, Fastnet, Skerryvore, and Dhu-Heartach +lights is always a matter of extreme uncertainty. Although the men +have to provide themselves with supplies, a reserve is maintained at +the station by the authorities for such emergencies. Even some of the +land stations are not approachable readily. There is the Punta Gorda +light-station on the Californian coast, the situation of which is wild +and forbidding. There is a landing about eight miles above the station, +but it is extremely precarious. Still, unless a certain element of risk +is accepted in coming ashore here, it is necessary to face a tramp or +stage journey of nearly fifty miles across country in order to gain the +lighthouse. + +The lighthouses in the Red Sea are, perhaps, among the most unenviable +and trying in the world. This stretch of water, lying between two +blistered coasts of sand, is no more or less than an oven, where even +the strongest constitution finds it difficult to hold out for long. +Moreover, the absence of civilization, owing to the extreme aridity of +the country, renders the life exceptionally depressing. In the summer +the heat is wellnigh intolerable. The thermometer hovers between 95° +and 110° F. in the shade throughout the twenty-four hours, so that +night brings no relief to the oppressiveness. + +At some of the stations the men seek a little diversion, and +incidentally add occasionally to their pocket-money, by shark-catching, +which is a tolerably profitable pursuit, since these waters are thickly +infested with this fish. The jawbone and backbone invariably find ready +purchasers, the former being mounted as a curiosity, while the backbone +forms a novel and serviceable walking-stick. + +One method of trapping these monsters which affords keen delight was +related to me. The requirements are an electric battery, some rope, a +few feet of electric wire, a cartridge, and an empty box, with a chunk +or two of bad meat. The cartridge is fitted with an electric primer, +the wire of which stretches to the battery. This cartridge is buried +in a hunk of meat, the whole being dangled from a box--an empty cask is +better--which serves as a float, while a rope is stretched from the box +to the shore, with the electric wire spirally wound round it. A short +length of chain is preferable, if available, to attach the bait to the +float, but a short piece of rope will do. This novel line is thrown +into the water, and the man keeps his eye on the float, with one finger +on the battery. The hungry shark, espying the tempting morsel, makes a +grab and swallows it, but the chain prevents him tearing away with it. +The pull causes the float to disappear, the man’s finger presses the +button, and the trick is done. There is an explosion, and pieces of +shark and showers of water fly into the air. The incident is all over +too quickly for the fish to marvel about the strange indigestibility +of the tainted meat he grabbed so greedily. The men enjoy this sport +hugely when it can be followed, as they regard the shark with intense +detestation. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of the “Syren and Shipping.”_ + +KEEPER CLEANING THE LAMP AFTER IT HAS COOLED DOWN.] + +Despite the vigilance of the various Powers, slave-running is still a +lucrative business on these forbidding coasts. Now and again a forced +labourer gets away from his taskmaster, and comes panting into the +lighthouse territory. This is sanctuary to the hapless wretch, and +although the keepers invariably receive a call from the runaway’s +master, he meets with scant courtesy, while his demand for the +surrender of the fugitive is answered by a point-blank refusal. The +slave-driver may storm, threaten, and abuse, to his heart’s content, +and, as he is generally a past-master in Arabian invective, the +keepers have to listen to a pretty tune. But the slave is kept in the +lighthouse until the relief-tender makes its periodical call, when he +is taken back to Suez and liberated. + +Fortunately, owing to the extreme care that is manifested by the +authorities, mishaps at a lighthouse are few and far between. The +men are supplied with rules and regulations which are drawn up with +an eye for every possible emergency. Yet accidents will happen, due +in the majority of instances to familiarity bred of contempt. The +majority of these calamities occur in connection with the explosive +fog-signalling apparatus, although every device is adopted to safeguard +the men. At one of the Scottish stations a keeper was manipulating +the fog-signal, but, flying in the face of instructions, he caused +the charge to explode prematurely. The man escaped injury, but the +detonation shattered several panes of glass in the lantern. + +One of the keepers of the Rathlin light, on Altacarry Head, was not so +fortunate. The White Star Canadian liner _Megantic_ was rounding the +corner of Ireland to enter the last lap of the homeward journey one +Saturday evening, when the captain’s attention was arrested by a signal +of distress flying from the lighthouse. The interpretation of the +signal revealed the fact that a doctor was wanted, so, easing up the +ship, he lowered a boat, and the doctor was sent away to the island. +Upon landing he found one of the men in dire straits. He had been +cleaning the fog-gun, when a charge, which had been left in the weapon +inadvertently upon the last occasion it was used, exploded. The man’s +arm had been wrenched off, and he was burned terribly. It was a stroke +of luck that the liner hove in sight at the moment she did. There was +no chance of extending succour to the injured man on the spot, and he +would have died before a doctor could have been summoned by boat from +Ballycastle, nine miles away. The surgeon bound up the man’s injuries, +lowered him into his boat, and, on regaining the liner, placed him +in the hospital, where he was tended until the vessel’s arrival in +Liverpool, where he was landed and placed in hospital. + +[Illustration: + + _By permission of “Syren and Shipping.”_ + +A LIGHTHOUSE BEDROOM. + +Owing to the limited space the furniture is reduced to the minimum, the +bunks being built against the wall.] + +More remarkable was the accident which happened at the Flannen Islands +light-station in 1900; it remains an unsolved mystery to this day. This +is one of Scotland’s lonely lights, mounting guard over a group of +islets fifteen miles off the Hebrides. On December 26 the relief-tender +approached the station on her usual fortnightly visit, but, to the +amazement of those on board, no signs of the keepers or the usual +signals were to be seen, while the lantern was not dressed in its +daylight garb. The crew landed hurriedly, wondering what was amiss. +They found the lighthouse absolutely deserted; not a sign of any of the +three keepers was to be seen or heard. They examined the log, and found +that the light had not been burning for some days, the last entry being +made about 4 a.m. nearly a week previously. The rock was searched, but +yielded no clue to the mystery of the complete disappearance of the +men. The light had not been abandoned; it had simply burned itself out. +It was a fortunate circumstance that very little shipping frequents +these seas during the winter, or there would have been one or two +marine disasters, as the islands are often wrapped in fog. + +It is surmised that one of the men ventured outside on to a rocky ledge +in the early hours of the morning. According to the log, a vicious +storm was raging at the time, and probably in the darkness the man was +swept off his feet and carried into the sea. The second keeper on duty, +marvelling at the non-return of his assistant, evidently had roused his +other companion, and the two had instituted a search in the storm, only +in turn to be caught by a wave and carried away. + +In Great Britain, since 1860, men only have been employed by the +Trinity House Brethren for the maintenance of the lights, but in +the United States women still are engaged in this duty. Some of the +British lights have been controlled by one family through two or +three generations. It was only a few years ago that a Darling retired +from the vigil on the Longstones of Farne Islands, the scene of Grace +Darling’s heroism, while for a century and a half one family kept the +South Foreland light faithfully. The Casquets light off Alderney, in +the Channel Islands, was maintained by one family, some of the children +spending the whole of their lives on the rock, son succeeding father at +the post of duty. + +On the American coast, however, women are more extensively employed. +Seeing that many of the lights are burned in a low tower projecting +from the dwelling-house, this circumstance may be readily understood, +as the duties beyond the maintenance of the light are not exacting. +One of the most notable instances, however, is the Point Pino light +at the entrance to Monterey Bay, on the Californian coast, the +guardianship of which has been in feminine hands for the past thirty +years. For something approaching half a century a woman maintained the +Michigan City harbour light on the Great Lake of that name. Indeed, +the associations were so deep-rooted and long that the beacon became +popularly known as “Miss Colfax’s light,” after the name of its keeper. +Even when she attained the age of eighty years she was as active and +attentive to her charge as on the day, in 1861, when she first assumed +responsibility for its safe-keeping. + +In those times there was a beacon established on the end of the wooden +pier, which railed off an area of the restless lake for the purposes of +the inland port. Those were strenuous days. Her home was on shore, and +every night and morning she tramped the long arm of woodwork to light +and extinguish the lamp. Lard-oil was used, and during the winter the +food for the lamp had to be heated to bring it into a fluid condition +before she set out from home. It was no easy matter struggling along on +a blusterous, gusty evening, with a pail of hot oil in one hand and a +lamp in the other, over a narrow plank. Often, when a gale was raging, +progress was so slow that by the time the beacon was reached the oil +had cooled and congealed, rendering it a difficult matter to induce +the lamp to burn. Once set going, however, it was safe for the night, +as the heat radiated from the burner kept the lard melted. In addition +to this lamp, there was another light in the tower projecting from the +roof of her house, which had to be maintained, and this, being the main +light, was the more important of the two. + +In 1886 the pier tower was taken out of her hands for ever. A furious +gale, such as is peculiar to these inland seas, and which cannot be +rivalled on the ocean for fury, was raging. At dusk she started on her +usual journey. Time after time she was wellnigh swept off her feet, so +that she staggered rather than walked, for the spray and sand flecking +her face nearly blinded her. When she gained the tower she paused, and +observed that it was trembling violently. Undismayed, she ascended, lit +the light, and tramped back to the shore. Scarcely had she gained the +mainland, when, glancing seawards, she saw the light sway from side +to side for a second or two, and then make a dive into the water. A +few moments later a crash reverberated above the noise of the storm: +the decrepit pier had succumbed at last. Hers was a lucky escape, but +she hurried home, and sat by the main light gleaming from her roof all +that night, apprehensive that some vessel might endeavour to make the +harbour and come to grief. When the pier was rebuilt, a new beacon +was placed on its extremity, but its upkeep was taken over by the +harbour authorities, leaving only the shore light in the trusty woman’s +keeping, the wicks of which for over forty years were trimmed and lit +at dusk, and extinguished with the dawn, with her own hands. + +During the migratory season of the birds extraordinary sights are +witnessed around the light at night. The brilliant glare attracts +enormous flocks, which flit to and fro. As the monster flaming spoke +swings round, the birds, evidently blinded by the glare, dash with such +fury against the glass panes of the lantern as to flutter to the floor +of the gallery with broken necks and wings, while large numbers, dazed +or killed, fall into the water. The birds are of all species, and at +times may be picked up by the basketful. Then the light-keepers are +able to secure a welcome change in their dietary. Moths, too, often +hover in clouds round the light, and are of such variety that an hour +on the gallery would bring infinite delight and rich harvests to the +youthful entomologist who has to be content to hunt around electric +lamps in quiet streets at night. + +While the lamp is burning, time cannot drag, owing to the multitude +of details which compel the keeper’s constant attention. The official +log has to be kept posted with a host of facts, such as temperature, +barometric readings, weather conditions as they vary from hour to +hour, behaviour of the lamps, etc.; while, when the lighthouse is +a marine signal-station as well, passing ships have to be signalled +and reported. The spell of labour varies from four to five hours or +more. Obviously, the task is more exacting and arduous in the winter +than in summer. During the former season the lamps have to be lighted +as early as 3.15 p.m., and are not extinguished until eight o’clock +the next morning. In the summer, on the other hand, the lamps may be +required for less than six hours or so. In northern latitudes where the +daylight is continuous owing to the midnight sun, the light scarcely +seems necessary. Yet it is kept burning during the scheduled hours of +darkness. + +Thus, night in and night out the whole year round, a comparatively +small band of faithful toilers keeps alert vigil over the dangers of +the deep, for the benefit of those who “go down to the sea in ships, +and do their business in great waters.” The safety of thousands of +human lives and of millions sterling of merchandise is vested in +their keeping. The resources of the shipbuilder, the staunchness of +the ship, the skill and knowledge of the captain--all would count for +nothing were it not for the persistent, steady glare of the fixed, +the twinkling of the occulting, or the rhythmic, monotonous turning +spokes of the revolving light, thrown over the waste of waters from the +lighthouse and the lightship. + + + + +INDEX + + + Aberbrothock, Abbot of, 96 + + Acetylene: as illuminant, Daléngas, 49, 274; + systems for floating lighthouses, 238, 278, 285-95; + cost of lighting by, 282; + dissolved, French system of using, 291; + use in Sweden, 291-94 + + Acetylene gun, the, 68-71 + + Admiralty, the: adoption of the siren, 60-61; + use of the Wigham light, 296 + + Adriatic shoreline, 203 + + “Aga” principle of lighting, 274, 277, 291, 293; + adopted by the United States, 294-95 + + Ailly, Pointe d’, 303 + + Ailsa Crag, system of fog-signalling, 63-65, 66 + + Alaska: trade of, 173; + controlled by the Lighthouse Board, 206; + unattended lighthouses, 277; + coastline 284 + + Alderney coastline, 12-13 + + Alexander, Lieutenant B. S., the Minot’s ledge-light, 8, 179 + + Alexandria, Pharos of, 2-3 + + Allerton Point lighthouse, 6 + + Altacarry Head, 313 + + Ambrose Channel, 251 + + American Thimble Shoal lighthouse, 308 + + Amour Point light, 169 + + Anderson, Lieutenant-Colonel William P., 172, 174, 217 + + _Anglo-Saxon_, Allan liner, wreck, 163-64 + + Anticosti, 171 + + Antifer, Cap d’, lighthouse, 39 + + Antipodes, the, 239 + + Arbroath, 97 + + Arena Point, 204 + + Argand burner, the, 47, 55, 79, 219 + + Argyll, Duke of, 115; + lays foundation-stone of Skerryvore, 105 + + Ar-men light, Finisterre, 20-24 + + Arthur, Port, 214, 217 + + _Assyrian_, the, wreck, 164 + + Astoria, 13, 185, 188, 193 + + Auckland coastline, 236, 237, 238 + harbour, 238 + Islands, 239 + + Auer, Dr. von, the incandescent mantle, 47-48 + + Australia: lighthouses of, 229-39; + unattended lighthouses, 283 + + Austria, lighthouses, 48 + + + Bache, General Hartmann, 63; + Brandywine Shoal light, 200-201 + + “Back lights,” 20 + + Ballantyne, A., the Tillamook Rock lighthouse, 185-95 + + Ballycastle, 313 + + Baltic Sea, unattended lighthouses of the, 274, 278, 291 + + Bar lightship, Mersey, 240 + + Barnard, General, the Minot’s Ledge light, 178-82 + + Barra Head, 113 + + Barra Island, 113 + + Barsier rock, 269 + + Bauld Cape light, 169 + + “Bay of the Dead,” Finisterre, 21, 22 + + Beachy Head lighthouse, 24-27, 94 + + Belfast, 306 + + Bell Rock lighthouse, 9; + lighting, 53; + fog-signals, 59; + the reef, 96-97 + + Bell-buoys, 68 + + Belle Ile, 51; + the beacons, 169; + the Northern light, 170-71; + the Southern light, 169; + the auxiliary light, 169-70; + isolation of, 171 + + Belle Ile, Straits of, 162, 163, 169 + + Bells: on lighthouses, 58; + submarine, 249-50 + + Biscay, Bay of, gales, 3-4 + + Bishop Rock lighthouse, 38, 51, 81-87 + + Black Prince, the, in Gascony, 4 + + Black Sea, lighthouses on the, 18-19 + + Blau liquid gas, 48-49 + + “Blowing-holes,” 62-63 + + Bluff, the, 236 + + Bois Blanc Island, 211 + + Bordeaux, trade of, 3-4 + + Boston Harbour: lighting, 6, 33-4, 196; + Minot’s Ledge light, 176-82 + + Bothnia, Gulf of, unattended lighthouses, 268, 274 + + Bounty Islands, 239 + + Bourdelles, M., investigations, 56, 219 + + Brandywine Shoal light, 200-201 + + Brebner, Alexander, 117 + + “Breeches-buoy,” used at Tillamook Rock, 187-89 + + Bréhat, Heaux de, Reynaud’s tower, 149-53 + + Bréhat, Isle of, 149 + + Bremerhaven, 132, 138, 139, 141 + + Brett, Cape, lighthouse, 238 + + Brewster, Sir David, lighting methods, 29 + + Bridges and Roads, Department of, 148 + + Bristol Channel: the Flat Holme light, 7; + unattended lighthouses, 278-79 + + British Columbia coastline, 284 + + Brittany coastline, 148 + + Brothers light, the, 234-35 + + Bull Rock lighthouse, 39 + + Bullivant cableways, 25-26 + + Bungaree Norah. _See_ Norah Head + + Buoys: bell and whistle, 68; + gas-buoys, 244; + the Willson, 286-89; + combined light and whistling, 290 + + Büsun, 226 + + Byron Bay, 232 + + Byron Cape, 232 + + + Cabrillo Point light, 205 + + Calf Rock light, 123 + + California coastline, 204 + + Campbell, General, 270 + + Campbell Island, 239 + + Canadian Marine Department, 8; + systems of building, 18-19; + fog-signalling apparatus, 66-68; + lighting of the coastline, 161-75; + lighting of the Great Lakes, 208-17; + floating lighthouses, 286 + + Caribou Island lighthouse, 216-17 + + Carmel Head, 94 + + Carolina, North, 240 + + Carrington, W. H. T., 25 + + Casquets lighthouse: the approach to, 12-13; + keepers of the, 314 + + Castle Point lighthouse, 238 + + Casuarina Island, 55 + + Catoptric system of lighting, 28 + + Centre Island lighthouse, 237 + + Chance Bros. and Co.: systems of lighting, 33, 36, 42, 55, 256; + the hyperradiant method, 38-39; + lenses, 40; + clockwork mechanism, 43-44; + the incandescent mantle, 48; + works carried out by, 53, 222 + + Channel Islands coastline, 269 + + Charles, Cape, 200 + + Chatham Island, 239 + + _Chauffer_, the, 4-6 + + Chesapeake Bay lights, 199, 200, 308 + + Chicken Rock light, 9, 94, 238 + + China, coast-lighting, 258-59 + + Clear, Cape, 121 + + Coffin Island, 171 + + Cohasset Rocks, 177 + + Colchester Reef lighthouse, 210, 216 + + Colfax: “Miss Colfax’s light,” 315-16 + + Collinson, Sir Richard, rocket system invented by, 58-59 + + “Colossus,” the Rothersand caisson, 138-9 + + Colton family, the, 170 + + Columbia River, 183, 184, 185 + + Colza oil as illuminant, 46, 47 + + Concrete, reinforced, use of, 18, 174 + + Cook’s Strait, 233, 234, 237 + + Cordouan, rocks of, 4 + + Cordouan, Tour de, 4-5, 30 + + Cornish plunderers of the Wolf Rock, 88 + + Corunna lighthouse, 3 + + Couedie, Cap de, lighthouse, 55 + + Courtenay, whistling device, 290 + + Creach, electric light at, 156 + + + Daboll, C. L., invention of the trumpet fog-signal, 59, 60 + + Dalén, Gustaf: the sun-valve, 49; + system of lighting, 274, 275, 291; + unattended lights, 269; + honour for, 291 note; + experiments, 292-93 + + Danger Point, 230 + + Darling, Grace, 95, 314 + + Daudet, Alphonse, “Phares de Sanguinaires,” 93 + + Delaware Bay, 143, 199, 200 + + Denmark, coastline, lighting, 48 + + Detroit River, Lower, 208 + + “Deviline” toy whistle, 61 + + Dewey, Admiral, 310 + + Dhu-Heartach lighthouse, 9, 107, 113-20, 311 + + Diamond Shoal, dangers of, 205-6; + the lightship, 251-53 + + “Diaphone,” the, 67, 68, 165 + + Dieppe, 303-304 + + Differential arc, use of, 227-28 + + Dioptric system of lighting, 37, 220 + + Disappointment Cape lighthouse, 186 + + Distances, table of, 52 + + “Divergence,” 39 + + Dog Island lighthouse, 237 + + Doty burner, the, 238 + + “Double-shell” principle of construction, 200 + + Douglass, Sir James: design for the new Eddystone, 78-80; + preservation of the Bishop Rock, 86-87; + system of lighting, 223 + + Douglass, William, and the Fastnet, 123 + + Dover Harbour lightship, 245 + + Dover, the pharos at, 3 + + Doyle Fort, 271-74 + + _Drummond Castle_, wreck, 148 + + Dues, lighthouse, 4, 7, 239 + + Duluth, 214 + + Duncansby Head, 108 + + Dunedin, N.Z., 236 + + Dungeness light, 94 + + Dunkirk, 249 + + + Earraid, 115, 116 + + East Cape, N.Z., 236 + + East Indies Archipelago, 257 + + Eddystone lighthouse: lighting of, 38, 41, 55; + fog-signals, 59; + description, 72, 82; + the Winstanley construction, 73-4; + John Rudyerd’s lighthouse, 74, 75, 94; + Smeaton’s work, 75, 78, 80; + the Douglass tower, 78-80; + keepers of, 311 + + “Eddystones,” 72 + + Edinburgh, Duke of, 79 + + Egmont, Cape, 233 + + Electricity: as luminant, 50-51, 148, 218, 295-96; + used in operation of derrick, 159 + + _Eider_ lightship, 249 + + Erie, Lake, 208, 216 + + Estevan Point light, 174 + + + Fair Isle lighthouse, 39 + + “Family of Engineers (A),” 8-9 + + Faraday, Professor, 218 + + Farallon Beacon, 205 + + Farallon Isles, fog-signalling on, 63 + + Farne Islands, 95, 314 + + Faro, the, 3 + + Fastnet lighthouse, 121-31; + lighting, 41; + keepers, 311 + + Ferro-concrete, use in construction, 18-19 + + _Feu-éclair_, the, 56 + + Finisterre, Cape, 3; + the Ar-men light, 20-24 + + Fire Island lighthouse, 250 + + Fire Island lightship, 240, 242, 250 + + Fisher’s Island Sound, 203 + + Flamborough Head light, 95 + + Flannen Islands lighthouse, 9, 113; + disappearance of keepers, 313-14 + + Flat Holme light, the, 7 + + Florida coastline, 201 + + “Focal point,” 39 + + Fog-signals: discharge of guns, 57-58; + rockets, 58-59; + explosion of gun-cotton, 59; + the Daboll trumpet, 59-60; + the siren, 60-62; + blowing-holes, 62-63; + installation on Ailsa Crag, 63-66; + diaphone on Ailsa Crag, 66-68; + the acetylene gun, 68-71; + diaphone at Cape Race, 165; + Belle Ile diaphone, 170 + + Foix, Louis de, 4-5, 8 + + _Forfarshire_, the, 95, 314 + + Forteau Bay, 169 + + Forth, Firth of, lighthouses in, 7, 218-19 + + Fourteen Foot Bank, 132, 143-47 + + Foveaux Strait, 237 + + Fowey Rocks lights, 201-3 + + French coast: lighting of, 148; + lightships, 243, 249 + + French Lighthouse Commission (1811), 29 + + Fresnel, Augustin: system of lighting, 28, 33, 286; + adopted by the United States, 36 + + + Gap Rock lighthouse and signal-station, 264 + + Gas Accumulator Company, of Stockholm, 49, 274, 291 + + Gas as illuminant, the incandescent mantle, 47-48 + + Gasfeten tower, 274 + + Gedney’s Channel, lighting of, 295-96 + + General Superintendent of Lights, office of, 197-98 + + Georgian Bay, 216 + + Gerholmen light-boat, 294 + + Germany: coastline of, lighting, 48, 50-51; + the lightship service, 249-50 + + Gironde lighthouse, 19 + + Gironde, the, rocks of the estuary, 3-4 + + Goodwin Sands, 205, 240, 244-45, 248 + + Grand Banks, the, 163 + + Grande Braye Rock, 296 + + Grand Trunk Pacific, 173 + + Granite, use of, 18 + + Great Lakes of North America: lighting of the, 27, 173, 208-17; + Lighthouse Board, control of, 206; + floating lighthouses, 286 + + Green Cape lighthouse, 232-33 + + “Grouting,” 27 + + Guantanamo Bay, 308 + + Guernsey coast lighthouse, 9, 16; + unattended lights, 269 + + Gun-cotton, explosion of, 58, 59 + + + Halifax Harbour: lights, 192; + the “Outer Automatic,” 290 + + Halpin, George, the Fastnet lighthouse, 121-23, 129 + + Hand Deeps, 79 + + Hanois lighthouse, 16 + + Hargreaves, Riley and Co., 260 + + Harkort, Society of, Duisburg, 133-34: + the Rothersand contract, 136-43 + + Hatteras, Cape: coastline, 147, 251-53; + sandbanks, 205-6, 240 + + Hauraki Gulf, 238 + + Hawaiian Islands, 206 + + Hebrides, lighthouses of the, 112, 313 + + Heligoland lighthouse, 133, 218; + use of the rocket system, 59; + the electric installation, 224-26 + + Hellespont, Sigeum lighthouse, 2 + + Henlopen Cape, light, 199 + + Hennebique system, 260 + + Henry, Cape, lighthouse, 20, 199-200 + + Héve, Cape, lighthouse, 218, 219 + + _Hinemoa_, New Zealand Government steamer, 235, 236, 238 + + Hoheweg lighthouse, 138 + + Hole-in-the-Wall, Vancouver, 174 + + Holland coastline, 48 + + Holmes, Professor, fog-horns, 60-62, 64, 66, 218 + + Holophotal revolving apparatus, 33 + + Hong-Kong, 264 + + “Hoo-doo,” 91 + + Horaine, plateau of, 153-56 + + Horn, Cape, 268 + + Hornum light, the electric installation, 226-28 + + Howe, Cape, 230, 232 + + _Huddart Parker_, liner, wreck, 236 + + Hudson Bay coastline, 268 + + Hugo, Victor, “The Toilers of the Sea,” 269 + + Hunting Island tower, South Carolina, 19-20 + + Huron, Lake, 211 + + Hynish harbour, 107 + + “Hyperradiant,” the, 37, 41; + the quicksilver trough, 42-43 + + + “Ice-breakers,” 201 + + “Ice-stoves,” 200-201, 210 + + Inchcape. _See_ Bell Rock + + Ingrey, Charles, scheme for Ailsa Crag, 64, 66 + + Invercargill, 237 + + Iona, 100 + + Ireland, Congested Districts Board beacons, 282-83 + + Irish lights, Commissioners of, 7; + the Fastnet, 123, 127 + + Iron, use in construction, 19-20 + + Islay, 298 + + + Jamaica coastline, lighting, 283 + + Japan, coastline, lighthouses, 9-10, 257-58 + + Java, 257 + + Jersey coastline, 243 + + Jument of Ushant, 156, 160 + + + Karachi, unattended light, 281 + + Kavanagh, James, the Fastnet, 125, 128 + + “Kingdom of Heaven,” 92 + + + Labrador coastline, 169, 268 + + Lagerholmen lighthouse, 278 + + Lampaul, Bay of, 157 + + Land’s End coastline, 247 + + Lard-oil as fuel, 46, 47 + + Leasowe lighthouse, 16; + fire at, 309 + + Lenses, preparation, 39, 40 + + Lewes, Delaware, 144 + + Lewis, Isle of, 113 + + Lewis, Winslow, invention of, 34, 35 + + “Light-boats,” 294 + + Lighthouse Board, U.S.A., 178-79 + + Lighthouse dues, origin, 4, 7; + levy of, 7, 239 + + Lighthouse Literature Mission, 306 + + Lighthouses, construction of, 174; + wooden towers, 198; + electric, of the world, 218-28; + unattended, 267-83; + floating, 284-300 + + Lighting: candles, 33; + Fresnel system, 28-33; + holophotal revolving apparatus, 33; + hyperradiants, 33-41; + sperm-oil, 46; + colza-oil, 46-47; + lard-oil, 46, 47; + petroleum, 47-48, 296-98; + paraffin, 47-48; + oil-gas, 48-49, 296; + various gases, 49-50; + electric lighting, 50-51, 148, 295-96; + acetylene system, 69-71, 238, 291 + + Light-keepers, life of the, 301-17 + + Lights: wood or coal in open braziers, 28; + tallow candles, 28; + indentification of, 32; + classification of, 37, 44-45; + “divergence,” 39; + focal point, 39; + white and coloured, 45-46; + candle-power, 51, 53; + subsidiary, 53-55; + duration of flash in revolving, 55-56 + + Lightships: the Stevenson unattended, 70; + maintenance of, 240-41; + description, 241-42; + the Minquiers light, 243-44; + average crew for, 244-45; + incidents, 244-55; + illuminating apparatus, 255-57 + + “Light valve,” the Dalén, 275-78 + + Lipson’s Reef, 55 + + Little Brewster Island lighthouse, 196-197 + + Lizard Head, 72, 82, 94 + + Lizard lighthouse, 94, 218 + + Lloyd’s, signalling-station at the Fastnet, 131 + + Longfellow, lines to Minot’s Ledge light, 176 + + Longships light, 82, 92, 311 + + Longstones lighthouse, 95, 314 + + Louis XIV. and the Eddystone, 75 + + Lundy Island, 92 + + _Lupata_, sailing-ship, wreck, 183 + + _Lusitania_, French emigrant steamer, wreck, 164 + + _Ly-ce-moon_, steamer, wreck, 233 + + + Mackinac, Strait of, 211 + + Macquarie, tower, 231 + + Magellan, Straits of, 268; + unattended lighthouses, 274-75 + + Malacca Straits lighthouse, 257; + One Fathom Bank, 259-64 + + Malay Peninsula, 257 + + _Malcolm Baxter Junior_, schooner, collision with the lighthouse, 308 + + Man, Isle of, Chicken Rock light, 94 + + Manacles, wrecks on the, 7 + + Manilla, 310 + + Manora breakwater, the Wigham light, 281 + + Manora Point light, Karachi, 39-41 + + Maria Van Diemen, Cape, lighthouse, 237, 238 + + Marine and Fisheries, Department of, Canada, 171 + + Marine Department, New Zealand, 233 + + Matthews, Sir Thomas, 26; + light designed by, 278-79, 299 + + May, Isle of, lighthouse, 7, 218-23 + + _Megantic_, White Star liner, 313 + + Meldrum, Sir John, the North Foreland lighthouse, 81 + + Mendocino, Cape, lighthouse, 204-5 + + Ménier, Henri, 171 + + Mercury float, the, 42, 43, 56 + + Meriten (De), dynamos, 221, 223 + + Mersey lightship, 240 + + Mew Island lighthouse, 38, 41 + + Mexico, Gulf of, coastline, 201 + + Michigan City Harbour light, 315-16 + + Michigan Lake, lighting of, 208, 211, 214, 215, 217 + + Minches, the, 112, 113 + + _Minnehaha_, wreck of the, 82, 83 + + Minot’s Ledge light, 11, 74, 204; + Captain Swift’s tower, 176-78; + General Barnard’s structure, 178-82 + + Minquiers lightship, 243-44 + + _Mohegan_ wreck, 7 + + Moko Hinou, 238 + + Monach Island light, 113 + + “Monolithic” method of construction, 16-19 + + Montagu Island lighthouse, 30-31 + + Monterey Bay, 315 + + Morocco, Cape Spartel light, 207 + + Moye system of lighting, 69 + + Muckle Flugga, 109-112 + + Mull, Isle of, 102, 115 + + Mull of Kintyre, 108 + + Murray, Hon. A., 260 + + + Nantucket Shoals lightship, 250 + + Navesink lighthouse, 51, 218 + + Needles light, the, 94 + + New Jersey coastline, 218 + + New London, Connecticut, Race Rock lighthouse, 203-4 + + New South Wales, lighthouses of, 230, 231, 232-33 + + New York Harbour: lighting, 218, 295; + lightships, 251 + + New Zealand: system of lighting, 33; + lighthouses of, 229-30, 233-35; + the lighthouse-keepers, 235; + unattended lighthouses, 268 + + Newfoundland coastline, 162, 169 + + Newhaven, 303 + + “No. 87” lightship, 251 + + Norah Head lighthouse, 232 + + Norderney lightship, 242, 249 + + Nore lightship, 240, 242, 245 + + _Norge_ liner, wreck, 299 + + Norman Cape light, 169 + + North Cape, New Zealand, lighthouse, 237, 238 + + North Foreland light, 81 + + North German Lloyd Atlantic liners, 132, 137 + + North Island, New Zealand, coastline, 233 + + North Ronaldshay lighthouse, 33 + + North Unst lighthouse, 9, 109, 110-12 + + Northern lighthouses, Commissioners of, 8-10, 37, 63, 64, 94, 96, + 100-02, 105, 109, 114, 219 + + North-West lightship (Mersey), 240 + + Nova Scotia: Sable Island lighthouse, 166; + floating lighthouses, 285, 290 + + Nuremberg, tests carried out at, 225-26 + + + Oil-gas, compressed, use of, 48, 296 + + One Fathom Bank lighthouse, 259-64 + + “One-tenth flash,” 294 + + Ontario Lake, 217 + + Oregon coastline, 13, 195 + + Orkneys coastline, 108, 109 + + Otter Rock lightship, 9, 297-99 + + Ouessant, Ile d’. _See_ Ushant + + “Outer Automatic,” Halifax Harbour, 290 + + Outer Diamond Shoal lightship, 147 + + Outer Minot light, 177, 178 + + + Panama Canal, unattended lighthouses, 277 + + “Panels,” system of dividing the light by, 31-32 + + Paraffin, use of, 47 + + Paris Exhibition of 1867, 61 + + _Paris_, wreck of the, 7 + + Parry sound, 216 + + Patents granted for upkeep of beacons, 5-6 + + Pei Yu-Shan lighthouse, 39 + + Pencarrow Head lighthouse, 234 + + Pentland Firth, 108 + + Pentland Skerries light, 109 + + Petroleum gas, use of, 47, 48, 279, 296-98 + + _Phare_, the term, 3 + + _Phares, Service des_, 19, 148, 219 + + _Pharos_, constructional vessel, 110 + + Pharos, the, Dover, 3; + of Alexandria, 2-3 + + Philippines coastline, 206 + + Phœnicians, beacons erected by the, 3 + + Pilgrim Fathers, the, and lighthouses, 6 + + Pilotage, Board of, Sweden, experiments with acetylene, 292, 293-94 + + Pino Point lighthouse, 315 + + Pladda, Island of, 64 + + Planier lighthouse, 219 + + Platte Fougère, land-controlled station of, 269-74, 283 + + Pleasanton, Stephen, 197-98 + + Plenty, Bay of, 236 + + Plymouth Harbour, 72 + + Plymouth Hoe, 80 + + Poe, General O. M., Spectacle Reef lighthouse, 211-14 + + Portland Canal, 173 + + Portland, Duke of, lighthouse on the Isle of Man, 7 + + Portland stone, used for building Eddystone, 76 + + Port of Dublin Corporation, 121 + + Potomac, ice-shores of the, 200-201 + + Potron, Charles Eugène, generosity of, 157, 159-60 + + Prince Rupert, port of, 173, 284 + + Pulsometer Engineering Company, Reading, 66 + + Punta Gorda light-station, 311 + + Puysegur Point, 237 + + + Queenstown harbour floating light, 297 + + + Race, Cape, lighthouse, 39, 43; + the lens, 40-41; + clockwork mechanism, 43; + fog-signalling apparatus, 67; + dangers of, 162-64; + the first beacon, 164-65; + the new beacon, 165 + + Race Rock lighthouse, 203-4 + + Ralph the Rover, 96 + + Rame Head, 72 + + Rathlin light, 313 + + Rattray Briggs lighthouse, 9 + + Ray, Cape, 164 + + Red Rock lighthouse, 210, 216 + + Red Sea lighthouses, 311 + + Rennie, John, the Bell Rock light, 97 + + Reyes Point, 205 + + Reynaud, Léonce, tower on the Heaux de Bréhat, 149-53 + + Rhins of Islay, 113 + + Ribière, 8 + + Rock Island, 124 + + Rock of Ages lighthouse, 210, 214-15, 216 + + Rockall, the, 299-300 + + Rockets, use of, 58-59 + + Rose of Mull, the, 113 + + Rothersand lighthouse, 11, 218; + the first attempt, 132-36; + work of the Society Harkort, 136-43 + + Round Island lighthouse, 39 + + Royale, Isle, 214 + + Rudyerd, John, the Eddystone lighthouse, 74, 75, 92-93 + + Russell Channel, the, 269-70 + + Russian lighthouse authorities, 18 + + Rutingen lightship, 242, 249 + + + Sable Island, 162; + description, 165-66; + lighthouses and chief station, 166-67; + the west end light, 167-68; + the east end light, 168 + + St. Agnes light, 81 + + St. Catherine’s Downs, 223 + + St. Catherine’s lighthouse, 55, 94, 218; + the electric installation, 223-24 + + St. Clair, Lake, 208 + + St. David’s Head, 92 + + St. John’s, Newfoundland, 164 + + St. Kilda, 300 + + St. Lawrence, Gulf of, 163; + dangers, 171 + + St. Lawrence River: + fog-signalling apparatus, 66-68; + entrance, 162; + the ice, 172; + lighting of the, 172-73 + + St. Malo Harbour, 243 + + St. Mary’s, 85 + + St. Peter Port lighthouse, 269-70 + + Sambro Island lighthouse, 162 + + Samoan Islands, American, controlled by the Lighthouse Board, 206 + + San Francisco: bay, 63; + coastline, 205 + + Sand, lighthouses built on, 132-47 + + Sandbanks, signposts of the, 240-56 + + Sandy Hook lighthouse, 199, 295 + + Sarnia, 216 + + _Salara_, the, wreck, 232-33 + + Sault Ste. Marie, 216 + + Scammon’s Harbour, 212 + + _Schiller_, German packet, wreck of, 86 + + Schukert, 225 + + Scilly Island, 81, 82, 247 + + Scotland: lighting, 50; + sea-rock lights of, 96; + the coastline, 108 + + _Scotsman_, Dominion liner, 171 + + Scott, C. W., and the Fastnet, 123-24, 129 + + Scott, Sir Walter, _quoted_, 100, 101 + + “Screw-pile lighthouses,” 19, 83, 200-203, 261-62 + + Sea-rock lighthouses, construction, 20 _et seq._ + + Serrin-Berjot lamps, 221-23 + + Seven Hunters. _See_ Flannen Islands + + Seven Stones lightship, 242, 248-49 + + Seven Wonders of the world, 2 + + Shark-catching, 311-12 + + Sherman, General, 211 + + Shetlands coastline, 108-109 + + Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, 82 + + Sigeum lighthouse, on the Hellespont, 2 + + Singapore, 257 + + Siren, the, developments, 59-60, 159 + + Skerries light, 94 + + Skerryvore lighthouse, 11, 59, 100-107, 113, 311 + + Slave-running, 312 + + Slight, Mr., the modern siren, 62 + + Smalls, The, 92-93 + + Smeaton, John, the Eddystone lighthouse, 8, 75-78, 80 + + _Smeaton_, the, 97-99 + + Smith, Thomas, 9, 219 + + Solent, the, 94 + + Sound, aberration of, 68 + + South Carolina, lighthouses of, 19-20 + + South Foreland lighthouse: lighting, 38, 95; + electricity adopted, 218-19; + keepers of the, 314 + + South Island, N.Z., coastline, 237 + + South Solitary Island lighthouse, 230, 231 + + South Stock light, 94 + + Southey, ballad of the Bell Rock, 96 + + Spain, early beacons, 3 + + Spartel Cape lighthouse, 207, 300 + + Spectacle Reef lighthouse, 74, 210-14, 215-16 + + Sperm-oil, as luminant, 46 + + “Spider-web braces,” 201 + + Spurn Point lighthouse, 38-39 + + Standard Oil Co., 282 + + Stannard’s Rock lighthouse, 214, 216 + + Start Point, 94 + + Stephens Island, 233 + + Stevenson, Alan: “Skerryvore,” 9, 100-107; + improvements in lighting, 32-33; + table of distances by, 51-52 + + Stevenson, Charles, 9 + + Stevenson, David, “North Unst,” 9 + + Stevenson, David and Charles: the acetylene gun, 68-71; + the unattended light, 269; + the Platte Fougère fog-signal, 270-71; + the Otter Rock light, 297; + scheme for Rockall, 300 + + Stevenson, David and Thomas: works carried out by, 15, 53; + the Chicken Rock light, 94; + building of the Dhu-Heartach, 114-20 + + Stevenson, family of engineers: preeminence of, 8-10; + systems of lighting, 36-38; + adoption of electricity, 219-22; + work in Japan, 258; + characteristics, 305 + + Stevenson, George, and the Fastnet, 122 + + Stevenson, Robert, and the Bell Rock lighthouse, 9, 97-100; + Skerryvore, 101 + + Stevenson, Robert Louis, “A Family of Engineers,” 8-9 + + Stevenson, Thomas, 9, 222 + + Stewart Island, 237 + + Stornoway lighthouse, lighting, 53-54 + + Strain, Samuel H., 306 + + Subsidiary lights, 53-55 + + Suez, 312 + + Sugar-Loaf Point lighthouse, 232 + + Sule Skerry lighthouse, 9, 39 + + Sumatra, 257 + + “Sun-valve,” the Dalén, 275-78 + + Superior, Lake, lighting of, 214, 216, 217 + + Sweden: floating lighthouses, 291; + unattended lighthouses, 277-82 + + Swift, Captain W. H., the Minot’s Ledge light, 176-78, 182 + + Sydney lighthouse. _See_ Macquarie Tower + + + _Tararua_, steamship, wreck of the, 236, 237 + + Tay, Firth of, 96 + + Terawhiti, Cape, 238 + + Thames lightships, 240-41 + + Thomas, O. P., 260 + + Three Kings Rock, 236 + + Tierra del Fuego, 268 + + Tillamook Head, 183 + + Tillamook Rock lighthouse, 13-15, 183-95, 204; + the keepers, 307-8 + + Tiri-Tiri Island lighthouse, 236-38 + + Torrain Rocks, 113 + + Tory Island lighthouse, 39 + + Trade, Board of: + collection of light dues, 7-8; + and the siren, 61; + Mr. Ingrey’s scheme, 64; + adoption of electricity, 219 + + Trewavas, John R., death of, 14-15 + + Triangle Island, British Columbia, light, 174 + + Trinity House Brethren: purchase of patents, 6; + maintenance of English lights, 7, 26; + adoption of the Daboll trumpet, 60; + and the Eddystone, 77; + and the Wolf Rock, 88-89; + and the Whiteside light, 93; + and the Fastnet, 122; + adoption of electricity, 218, 223; + the light on the Seven Stones, 248 + + Trinity House Museum: Smeaton’s clock, 76-77; + Bishop Rock fog-bell, 85-86 + + _Triumph_, steamship, wreck, 236 + + Tyndall, Professor, 59 + + Tyree, island of, 100, 102, 105, 107 + + + United States Corps of Engineers, 63, 198 + + United States Lighthouse Board, 13 36, 195; + coastline lighting, 20, 196-207; + methods of lighting, 46-47; + inauguration, 198; + extent of control 206-7; + lighting of the Great Lakes, 208-17; + lightship service, 255; + adoption of the Aga light, 294-95 + + United States Typographical Engineers, 176 + + Unst, island of, 112 + + Ushant, 148, 156, 157 + + Ushant Island, 158 + + + Vancouver, 173; + coastline, 284 + + Vancouver Island, 174 + + Victoria, 173 + + _Victoria_, steamer, wreck, 303-4 + + + Waipapapa Point lighthouse, 236, 237 + + Walker, James, 8; + Bishop Rock light, 84-5 + + Wanganui, N.Z., 233 + + Water-gas, 48 + + Wellington, N.Z., 233-4 + + Weser River estuary, 132 + + West Indies lighthouses, 309 + + White ant, ravages of the, 264-66 + + White Shoal lighthouse, 215, 216 + + Whiteside light, 92, 93 + + Whistles on lighthouses, 58 + + Wigham light, 279-280, 282, 296-97 + + Willson, Mr. Thomas: the acetylene automatic light, 285-89, 291, 294 + + _Winchelsea_, wreck of the, 72, 74 + + Windward Point, Cuba, 308 + + Winstanley, Henry: the Eddystone lighthouse, 73 + + Wireless installation: on the Fastnet, 131; + station, Sable Island, 167; + Belle Ile, Southern Point, 170; + the Eider lightship, 249 + + Wirral, 16, 309 + + Wolf Rock lighthouse, 14; + blowing holes, 63, 87-92; + relief, 311 + + Women as lighthouse-keepers, 314-15 + + Wrath, Cape, 112 + + Wreckers of the Wolf Rock, 88; + Chinese, 258-59 + + +BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes + + +Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a +predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not +changed. + +Simple typographical errors were corrected; occasional unbalanced +quotation marks retained. + +Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained. + +Index not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references. + +Ditto marks in the Index have been replaced by the actual text. + +Empty, featureless areas along the side(s) of some illustrations have +been removed by Transcriber. This allowed those illustrations to be +shown larger and with greater detail. + +Page 233: “Ly-ce-moon” likely is a misprint for “Ly-ee-moon”. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Lightships and Lighthouses, by Frederick A. Talbot + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIGHTSHIPS AND LIGHTHOUSES *** + +***** This file should be named 52817-0.txt or 52817-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/8/1/52817/ + +Produced by deaurider, Charlie Howard, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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